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01/01/2018, 11:52 AM | #1 |
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Chicago
Posts: 30
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Weir Design
I picked up a 75 gallon that I am going to drill for a bean animal overflow. I think I have the hole placement figured out thanks to many of your replies.
This will be a peninsula style setup, drilled on the end of the tank. I would like to build the overflow box out of black smoked glass, and was thinking of building it with a 12"x4" 'footprint' I did a rudimentary sketch of it that I attached. This would give me a 19" weir length, so a little more than what I would have with a coast to coast on the end of an 18" tank. I can also do a coast to coast, if there is a reason that it would be better than this design that I am unaware of. Perhaps there would be a difference in the way the weir gathers water, or the way the water moves inside the box? I appreciate any feedback. Happy New Year, AZ |
01/01/2018, 12:35 PM | #2 |
Ver. 2.1
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Rehoboth, MA
Posts: 1,803
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I'm in the process of upgrading my 80 to a 120, didn't want a corner overflow like in the 80 on the 120, so I went with a Synergy Shadow overflow.
This is mounted on the end. http://synergyreef.com/product/16-shadow-overflow/
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Pete "I never make mistakes... I thought I did once, but I was wrong" Current Tank Info: In the process - http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2661614 |
01/01/2018, 12:56 PM | #3 |
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Chicago
Posts: 30
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I will be putting the tank flush to the wall and plumbed through to the adjacent room, where I will have the sump. If I used a Shadow, the exterior box would be inside the wall cavity, which would restrict where I could put the tank, since the box would have to go between the studs, assuming it would even fit between them.
It looks like a great product though, and one I would definitely consider, in other circumstances. |
01/01/2018, 08:47 PM | #4 |
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Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Baton Rouge
Posts: 1,410
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It looks fine to me. Being it is a peninsula I would keep the design how u have it now instead of going c2c with a L shaped box. To me a 4 sided box like your sketch looks better when u are looking at it from the side.
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01/01/2018, 09:26 PM | #5 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Chicago
Posts: 30
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I will be building a hood for the tank, and could have a piece of decorative wood cover the view of the inside of a coast to coast to keep things looking good. If there is some advantage to a L shaped box I could make it work, but if both are essentially the same I will probably go with the box with sides.
Thank you |
01/02/2018, 10:47 AM | #6 |
Grizzled & Cynical
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Stamford, CT
Posts: 17,319
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I much prefer the aesthetics of a box that does not extend fully to the sides of the tank. It's hard to make the silicone ends look good against the glass. Skimming performance will be fine either way.
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Simon Got back into the hobby ..... planned to keep it simple ..... yeah, right ..... clearly I need a new plan! Pet peeve: anemones host clowns; clowns do not host anemones! Current Tank Info: 450 Reef; 120 refugium; 60 Frag Tank, 30 Introduction tank; multiple QTs |
01/02/2018, 02:03 PM | #7 |
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: West Michigan
Posts: 1,010
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01/02/2018, 07:01 PM | #8 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Chicago
Posts: 30
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Funny you should mention the sawzall. I assumed this was a load bearing wall but, upon closer inspection, it is actually a standard wall under a rather large header that is supported by brick pillars. So the studs could be a bit more flexible in placement than I first thought. I am still a bit more inclined to do the glass box inside the tank and plumb out the back of the tank like beananimal did his first one.
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