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Unread 04/01/2009, 06:30 AM   #51
GlassReef
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Quote:
Originally posted by zachtos
... then you wont have to change it only but once month or so probably.
Well, there is that sticky little problem of nitrates.


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Unread 04/01/2009, 06:35 AM   #52
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SkoReef - great post - thanks!

eran - thanks. I built my sump using 3/8" cast acrylic.

MarkussII - Servus. They are best fans money can buy.


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Unread 04/01/2009, 08:09 AM   #53
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Quote:
Originally posted by GlassReef
Well, I've spent a disappointing week. On the 23rd my computer wouldn't boot. Was a strange situation. It would boot until just after the Windows (bless little Billy's soul) Welcome Screen - then it would go black and nothing would be displayed but the mouse cursor.
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APPLE



I switched a year ago and never looked back. Perhaps you had the April Fools Day virus.


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Current Tank Info: 60x30x24 200G AO custom glass tank, basement equipment room, 30G and 55G Fuges, LifeReef sump & 30" skimmer.
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Unread 04/05/2009, 06:26 AM   #54
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Well, I was finally able to get back to the important things in life. I'll continue on my little documentary on how my frag and fuge tanks were built.

I cut all the sheet acrylic used for the tanks on a table saw. That leaves a decent edge:



But not good enough for what we need. Using the pin method of solvent welding requires a very smooth edge so that the solvent wicks easily and evenly into the space between the pieces being welded. So, the edge has to be smoothed. There are two tools that can be used for the smoothing: a jointer or a router. A jointer works well, but if you aren't skilled in it's use, you can end up with work pieces that aren't square. I prefer to use a router. Almost foolproof, and leaves a perfect edge:



When finishing the edge, I use the router to shave a very thin layer of material. I made a special setup for this on my table saw. I drilled a hole in the extension table to the right of the blade and mounted a router below the table so that the router bit could protrude through the hole:



That is a double bladed straight bit - a big one. It has a 1-1/2" diameter. You don't really need that big a bit - a normal 3/4" diameter bit would do just fine. I like the bigger bit because it makes absolutely perfect cuts. If you use such a large bit, remember to turn down the speed on your router to about 10,000 RPM!

To make the cut, I make use of the table saw's built in rip fence. Normally you would use the left edge of the fence when cutting stock with the saw. When edging with the router, I use the right edge. I move the fence until the right edge is the correct distance from the router bit. That means, so that the router bit will be shaving just a little from the work piece - less than 1/32". That looks like this:



DISCLAIMER - at this point, I should explain that you should never use a fixed router with the work piece placed between the bit and the fence. This situation lends itself to the work piece being caught by the bit, forced into the fence, and thrown off the table at very high velocity! A dangerous situation - so don't do what I'm describing here. I do it because it gives perfectly parallel edges - and I take every precaution so that nothing bad happens.

Once the edges have been completed, I remove a strip of the protective paper that covers the acrylic sheet. This allows viewing the edges that are being welded and keeps the paper from interfering with the welding process. I normally just use a straight edge for this:



After removal:





Now we can do some welding ....


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Unread 04/05/2009, 07:06 PM   #55
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I always start a tank by welding the ends to one side. Here you can see I've placed an end piece on top of a side. It's being held in place (and square) by a home made jig and spring clamps:



Here's a close up of the joint. Note that the jig has a corner removed at a 45deg angle. This keeps the jig from interfering with the solvent. You can see that the side piece - on the bottom, in the pic - extends about 1/8" past the end piece. This provides a lip or shelf, on which the solvent needle can be rested when squirting solvent into the joint:



These strange looking things are furniture/cabinet shims. I use the plastic ones because they don't swell if they get wet. You can find them at most big box stores:



Here you can see that I've placed a shim under the bottom piece of acrylic (the shims are approx. 6" apart) and a needle in the joint above each shim. The point here is that we want the space between the two pieces that was created by the needles to be the same height along the entire joint. A crooked work surface, etc. can cause problems here. First the shims are inserted only about 1/8" under the bottom work piece. Then the needles are inserted into the joint about 3/4 the thickness of the acrylic. The shims are then adjusted until each needle is being held in the joint by approx. the same amount of pressure. Inserting a shim further increases the pressure, backing it out lessens the pressure.



Once this procedure is complete we can get to the fun (and hectic) part. The welding. I use Weld-On #4 solvent. It has a watery consistence and dries fairly quickly. Because of this you have to move right along when you are working with it. I take the solvent bottle (that's been filled 3/4 full), place the tip of the needle at the beginning of the joint and rest it on the little ledge created by the overlap of the bottom work piece - then I squeeze the bottle and watch for the solvent to begin emerging.



Once I see the solvent, I draw the needle along the joint. I try to put a constant and even squeezing pressure on the bottle. You can't really see it in the pic, but as you're moving the bottle along the joint, you can see the solvent being drawn into the joint due to capillary action. Watching this, I can make sure that entire joint contains solvent and ensure no voids exist.

Once I have completed a joint, I wait until 30 - at the most 45 - seconds have passed, then I begin removing the needles. I make sure to steady the vertical work piece a little with my left hand while I pull the needle out with my right. This helps prevent the workpiece from slipping due to the force of the needle being removed.

As soon as the needles have been removed, I check for bubbles (voids) in the joint. If I find one I try to remove it by increasing the pressure at that point by pushing the closest shim in just a little. This increase in pressure will often cause bubbles to disappear. When that step is complete, I place weights (bricks wrapped in duct tape) on top of the vertical work piece. This helps press the joint together and stops voids from forming while the solvent dries.



Here you can see the beginnings of both the frag tank and fuge. The farthest one has a temporary divider and top piece added to support the weights.



Here is a closer view. Both ends have been welded in the pic:



To be continued ....


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Unread 04/05/2009, 08:35 PM   #56
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That is some great work. It makes me want to try my hand at making a new sump. thanks. I'll be waiting for the continued episode


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Current Tank Info: 265gal starfire, 90 gal. sump, 70gal. frag tank, 40gal. QT tank, Alpha 300 Cone Skimmer, Geo 618 calcium and kalk reactors, 5- tunze 6105's, 7069 controller, Apex, 3-400watt radiums w/galaxy ballasts in lumenbright larges, 2 super actinic VHO's
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Unread 04/05/2009, 09:13 PM   #57
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have read your entire build thread. your build is so detailed and thought out. i have used your thread as inspiration on a build i am planning.


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Unread 04/07/2009, 09:36 AM   #58
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Very nice Tom.


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Current Tank Info: 375 Reef, 4) Radion LED lights X30 pro, Apex Fusion, Octo Regal 300 E Skimmer, GEO 618 Calcium Reactor 2) Reeflo Snapper pumps, 2)50g refugium, 2) MP 40's
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Unread 04/07/2009, 10:10 AM   #59
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Great Work! Very inspiring!


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Unread 04/07/2009, 07:47 PM   #60
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Acrylic Work

thanks for the detail on the Acrylic work as well. Although i do have some experience with Acrylic, the use of shims will aide in my next project's success.

now we can safely say it is one stop reading from soup to nuts.

Steve


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Unread 04/07/2009, 08:32 PM   #61
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Looking real good. i am getting some inspiration again..


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Unread 04/07/2009, 10:01 PM   #62
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thanks Tom for documenting the details so nicely, your thread is just a joy to read


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Unread 04/07/2009, 11:32 PM   #63
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Tom, how is the light spread on your tank with the LB's. I have a new 72" * 34" * 24" and was wondering if it covers the depth?


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265gal starfire, 90 gal. sump, 70gal. frag tank, 40gal. QT tank, Vertex Alpha 300 Cone Skimmer, calcium and kalk reactors, 5- tunze 6105's, 7069 controller, Apex, 3-400watt radiums w/galaxy ballasts in lumenbright larges, 2 super actinic VHO's

Current Tank Info: 265gal starfire, 90 gal. sump, 70gal. frag tank, 40gal. QT tank, Alpha 300 Cone Skimmer, Geo 618 calcium and kalk reactors, 5- tunze 6105's, 7069 controller, Apex, 3-400watt radiums w/galaxy ballasts in lumenbright larges, 2 super actinic VHO's
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Unread 04/09/2009, 10:37 AM   #64
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Sorry for not responding sooner, folks. Seems the subscription to my own thread got lost in the shuffle. I didn't get any emails notifying me of replies, so I assumed no one had posted.

eran, searey, edandsandy, Jhardain, StevieK, erics3000, Elliott - thanks, everyone, for the kind words. I'll be finishing up on the acrylic DIY series today or tomorrow.

eran asked whether my LumenBright reflectors cover the tank's 36" depth: very well, actually. The bulbs are 16-1/2" above the water - this allows the light to be spread evenly across the tank. I'll be posting the obligatory PAR readings for the tank, sometime this week or next.


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Unread 04/09/2009, 11:22 AM   #65
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Frag/Fuge DIY continued ....

Both my frag tank and refugium will have an internal overflow in the front right corner. I chose the front corner for ease of access. I'm not really too worried about how the tanks look - ease of maintenance, etc. is more important. Each overflow box consists of one side and one end, each has had teeth routed in the top to form the weir.

Here you can see the overflow box being solvent welded into the refugium:



From a different angle:



From the other side - showing the overflow weir:



I first welded the two interior (black) pieces of the OF box together and then let them dry. Then I placed the completed assembly in the tank and welded the part facing down to the side piece. When solvent welding, you can only weld horizontal joints. As mentioned earlier, the solent is very watery - trying to weld a verical joint will result in the solvent merely running down the joint. I used blue painters tape to hold everything in place. Once that dried, I turned the tank on it's end and welded the remaining side of the box to the tank.

This pic shows a judicious use of weight to ensure the (not so perfectly square) box makes full contact with the side of the tank while it's being welded:



Next, the entire assembly is placed on the acrylic sheet for the bottom. The bottom piece is 1/8" longer and wider than the actual size of the tank. This creates the ledge along which the solent needle will be rested. The shims and needles are placed around the entire tank using the method already shown.

When welding the bottom and top pieces, it's a good idea to have a helper. Any time you're building a tank that is over approx. 24" long, the time it takes to inject solvent all the way around the bottom/top is longer than we want to allow a needle to remain in the solvent. If you have a helper, he/she can begin removing needles 30-45 seconds after the solvent has been injected at their position. If you're wondering why I have not posted a pic of this process - I forgot to take one.

See next post ....


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Unread 04/09/2009, 11:56 AM   #66
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Before I attached the bottom of the tanks, I drilled two 2-3/8" holes - the correct size for the 1-1/2" bulkheads I'll be using for the overflow. I used a regular hole saw. I purchased this set at Home Depot:



When cutting the holes, using a hole saw, ensure the work piece is laying on a flat support and allow the weight of the drill to do most of the work. Applying too much pressure can easily damage your acrylic.

I'll be building my version of a Hofer Gurgle Buster to use in the overflow boxes of both the frag tank and refugium. My setup calls for two 1-1/2" standpipes in each box - never can have too many standpipes. Together, the Frag and Fuge will be fed by a Gold Reeflo Dart. I intend to dial it back a little, to about 2000gph. At 500gph per standpipe, I'm pretty sure that nothing can go wrong.

Here are the parts I'll be using for the standpipes. The pics shows the parts for two standpipes:



This takes the place of the part that forms the bell in the original Hofer parts list. I just like it better.



I'll show some pics of the finished standpipes a little later.


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Unread 04/09/2009, 12:52 PM   #67
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Great work, Tom!!! Your thread is amazing and your attention to detail inspiring; been studying it thoroughly as I'm preparing to resume my build very soon.

I was just wondering if 1000gph through your refugium might be too much flow? Seems like the water might cycle through too fast to allow the dwell time necessary for denitrification.

Very interested, though, as I'm planning to use a similar setup to yours and ReefEnabler's by pump-feeding my frag and fuge tanks from my sump and then allowing a gravity drain back down into the sump for return to the main display.

Thanks!
Gary


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Unread 04/09/2009, 01:21 PM   #68
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Both the frag tank and the refugium will be Euro-braced with an integrated middle brace. I've chosen to go with 3" bracing along the sides and ends and 6" for the middle.

I've found that the easiest way to complete the top of my tanks is to rout the acrylic sheet before it's attached to the tank. I do this using a router with a 1/8" flush trim bit:



The flush trim bit is designed to follow a template which has been attached to the work piece. Rather than construct a full sized template, as is often suggested, I always piece mine together - saves a whole bunch of time and trouble. Here are the pieces for the template which will create the Euro-bracing for both tanks. The pic shows 3" wide (the width of the bracing) strips of 3/4" MDF. The strips have been cut to a length that will form a rectangle with sides that match the dimensions of exactly half the size of the top of the tank. You'll see what the small triangular pieces are for in a moment:



I use double sided tape to attach the pieces of the template to the top of the tank:



Once the tape has been attached to the MDF template:



We can start applying the pieces to the tank top:



See next post ....


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Unread 04/09/2009, 01:34 PM   #69
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And here it is, finished:



The rectangle's outer edge is aligned with the outer edge of the acrylic piece. Here, you can see that the small triangular pieces have been attached at each inner corner. They serve to enlarge (strengthen) the corners of the bracing. You most often see this done using a quarter circle, but straight lines are much easier to cut.

What is shown in the pic is a template that covers exactly one half the top of the tank. The router and flush trim bit will be used to remove the material inside the rectangle. The ball bearing at the end of the flush trim bit will ride along the edge of the MDF template, guiding the cutter through the acrylic sheet.

To do this, a hole must first be drilled through the acrylic to allow the bit to pass through. I usually use a spade bit to do this. The hole is drilled close - but not touching - the inside edge of the template:



When the hole is done, the top is turned over. Here you can see the hole just drilled. The template is now resting on the work table:



The router is placed on top of the acrylic sheet, with the bit going through the hole. The bit has to be adjusted so that when the router rests flat on the acrylic, the bearing (under the sheet) rests against the template, but is low enough so that the cutter will cut completely through the sheet (in this case 3/8"):



Now it's just a matter of routing along the edge of the template. Make sure to follow the rule: If routing inside a template, rout in a clock-wise direction - if routing outside a template, rout in a counter-clock-wise direction. This ensures that you don't do what is called a climb cut - where the bit is turning is a direction with the cut instead of against it. Climb cuts are very dangerous and almost guaranteed to ruin your work piece.



Here's the completed cut. You can see that the template has helped create a nice Euro-brace pattern:



To continue with the top, I will remove the template pieces, apply them in axactly the same manner to the other end of the top piece and rout again. This way we have 3" Euro-bracing with a 6" (doubled up 3" template) center brace.

Unfortunately, someone, whose name will go unmentioned, accidently erased the memory chip with the pics of the final stages of completion for the tanks. All that was left to do was weld on the top pieces, and rout all edges to clean up the overhang left from the welding process. A 1/2" flush trim bit is used to do that. I also use a 3/8" quarter round-over bit to clean up the top edges - makes it look nice.


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Unread 04/09/2009, 01:39 PM   #70
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Great work as always Tom. You talents never cease to amaze me.


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Unread 04/09/2009, 01:48 PM   #71
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Here are some pics of the frag tank being leak tested. You will notice two things that don't jive (is that word still used, these days?) with my previous posts.

1. The top consists of two pieces instead of one, as I had described. The reason is I found that I screwed up and measured the top incorrectly (1/2" too short). I didn't want to use another 4' X 8' sheet, so I made do. Shouldn't have any influence on the strength of the tank.

2. The bracing over the right hand half of the tank is not a mirror image of the left side as I described in my post about routing the Euro-bracing. I changed the plan and routed a separate opening for the overflow.







I'll post some pics of the tanks on their stand, in the fish room, tomorrow.


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Unread 04/09/2009, 01:57 PM   #72
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Quote:
Originally posted by clevengergl
I was just wondering if 1000gph through your refugium might be too much flow? Seems like the water might cycle through too fast to allow the dwell time necessary for denitrification.
To be honest, I probably won't be shoving 1000gals through the fuge - probably more like 600gals. I was just a little nervous about stating that I plan on pushing the remaining 1400gals through the frag tank. I'm always a little leary about describing things that might not work or present a questionable situation for someone else. Although I feel comfortable with the 1400gals througn the 1-1/2" pipe - I wouldn't want to bet someone elses living room on it. And there is the backup pipe.


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Unread 04/09/2009, 01:59 PM   #73
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JRaquatics - thank you, Jeremy. You're compliments are always appreciated. How's Mike's tank coming?


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Unread 04/09/2009, 06:31 PM   #74
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Tom...you never cease to amaze me. That's some beautiful acrylic work.


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Unread 04/09/2009, 08:28 PM   #75
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You've got mad skills man!

Beautiful work!


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150 gallon Perfecto with 1500 gph GH overflow / DIY stand-wine bar / Dart Return / SRO XP3000 Ext skimmer / 75 g frag / 40 g fuge / 40 g DIY sump / Orphek P156 & Kessil 150A

Current Tank Info: 150 DT/ 40B fuge/ 75g frag/ 40 g sump/ SRO XP 3000 Ext/ TUNZEs & VorTechs circulation/Dart return/ MTC Pro Cal/ UV & Oz
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