Mars Aqua Chinese LED review (Ebay)

[triscene]

Hello guys, i just purchased 3 x 150w Mars Aqua and i have customized it 20000k, 395 and 490nm LEDs. My tanks has these parameters 130cm x 55cm x 50cm.
I have some Montis, euphylias, bubble anemone and clam.
All went good on 6x54w t5s but wanted go these way.
How should i start with settings so i dont burn them and on the other hand i give them enough Light for time of aclimatization?
Thanks

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[pfan151]

Originally Posted by James404

Starting up a new tank 48x24x16 with sps dominant, would 2x165w Mars Aqua be sufficient?

I have 2 on a 36" tank. I don't see how two would cover a 48" properly

[mikeynolan122]

Originally Posted by Atomic081

My Frag tank needed a upgrade for lights and I decided to give the Chinese Led lights on Ebay a shot. Im very impressed right now with them and for the money i don't think they can be beat. (I have no affiliation with these lights, im a hobbiest like everyone else.)



Link to the Ebay Site.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2PCS-Dimmabl...item5658e7c2e9





Description :

Dimmable 165W LED Aquarium Light with Lens for each led.

Dimmer One(28 LEDs): 8 x Cool White 12,000k, 6 x Neutral White 7500k, 6 x Warm White 3500k, 2 x Red 660nm, 2 x Green 520nm, 4 x Blue 460nm

Dimmer Two(27 LEDs): 7 x Royal Blue 450nm, 20 x Blue 460nm

Two Dimmers, two power cords and two on/off switches to control blue &white separately

Output Optimized for PAR, Sufficient Lights Spectrum, Super Light Penetration

PAR of the light is: 28PAR for Lens can output more PAR

3 Watt Epistar LED

LED Output Power: 55pcs*3watt

Dimension: 400mm*212mm*60mm

Working temperature: -20 to 40 Degree Celsius

Input voltage: AC85V-265V

Lifespan: 50000-100000hours

The range of power consumption under 110V: 123W-130W; 220V: 120W-126W

Black painted casing.

The LED Spectrum ratio can be changed for big order (more than 2pcs).





Ordered on Monday evening. Arrived Friday afternoon.





Packing was very good





Out of the box

















Mounted on my Frag tank. They did not give off a huge area of light, the frag tank is only 12" tall so i mounted them where they can hit everything in the tank. They are still a little high, Ill lower them later to let corals adjust.







All blue, and all White so you can see them side by side.





Randoms of the frag tank. These colors are VERY true to the real life colors. Im very happy with that.



















Overall im happy with these lights and would recommend them for a cheap alternative. I dont think they can be connected to any controller, so they are just a basic on and off with a dimmer.

Yes they can be connected to apex plenty of YouTube videos I went with bluefish controller have full control from app including real-time storm simulation


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[triscene]

Originally Posted by pfan151

I have 2 on a 36" tank. I don't see how two would cover a 48" properly

Three is well enough what i have installed. I would have still place for one more. But, will.check how it.goes.

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[hfa3501]

Is anyone using these over a glass canopy? Or are they all over open-top tanks? I have a glass canopy because I have jumpers in my tank I don't want coming out of the tank. Will these still work with a clear top?

[Stevenlatham01]

Are they any gooseneck fittings that you can use with the 300w version?

[MurphyLong]

Originally Posted by hfa3501

Is anyone using these over a glass canopy? Or are they all over open-top tanks? I have a glass canopy because I have jumpers in my tank I don't want coming out of the tank. Will these still work with a clear top?

Mine aren't MarsAqua, (they're DSunY) but I have them over glass tops, and work just fine.

http://a.co/8W9UAWW

With that said, I'm not a spectrum wizard or anything, but can anyone who is chime in on LEDs mine has? They all blend quite well through the tank, I don't have any weird colors that don't blend, or disco effect with or without my glass tops on.

layout.jpg

[triscene]

Guys who changed their fans, based on what u picked up your new fans? Just db or rpm or? I have used Noctua 1800 with 17db but i could still hear them so i used for the rest of my fixtures Noctua 1200 with 9 db and totally satisfied.
I had these fans originally. But i found specs just for 0.35a version and not 0.17

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[ajm83]

Originally Posted by triscene

Guys who changed their fans, based on what u picked up your new fans? Just db or rpm or? I have used Noctua 1800 with 17db but i could still hear them so i used for the rest of my fixtures Noctua 1200 with 9 db and totally satisfied.
I had these fans originally. But i found specs just for 0.35a version and not 0.17

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I used Arctic F8 because I've used them in my PCs before and they were quiet. The RPM for me wasn't a particular factor.

I run my blue channel on 100% and there have been no signs of burning. If there had been, I would select a fan with a higher airflow (and replace the LEDs of course )

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[patmos]

Dear Friends. I have 165W chinese box that has a faulty intelligent module. The module came with remote control. I used it on AUTO mode .When the module failed all LEDs are on. I Need a replacement for this front control module. I cannot get it anywhere because the company(Alibaba)where I bought it is not replying me anymore. They say they do not make this unit.
please help if you can

[Bronx19]

Its a disposable light, there is no manufacturer fixing.

[patmos]

Originally Posted by Bronx19

Its a disposable light, there is no manufacturer fixing.

I understand your point...but there must be ways to use it at least MANUALLY...where one can adjust light intensities....

[rgulrich]

Most probably not to control light intensities, but definitely turn on/off with an external timer (if the LEDs are in the default "on" position when the controller failed).

That said, the light manufacturer is "Intelligent aquarium LED" and may be seen as a Taotronics. Lots of Google searching and you might get lucky and find an email contact. Know nothing about their service capabilities.

I have dealt with MarsAqua service department when I lost a driver shortly after I put this system together, and they promptly mailed out a new replacement.

Good luck,
Ray

[Force4000]

How can you guys tell what the darn dimmer settings are. I just got my Mars Aqua X2 165w and mounted them 11 inches off the water, problem is they seems much less light intense then my 4x54w t5 fixture. I have both dimmers on the minimum brightness to break it in. How did you guys acclimate your lights?

[garygonzales]

you want to start them out low and then turn them up little at a time till you get where you want ..usually a week time to do this works good...basically half way with dial is about 50% and all the way is 100%..just kinda guess....

[outy]

I'm starting out ocean revives 30%b -25%w and the coral that was on MH beforehand is thriving. Always better to start low then to high.

[Force4000]

What do you guys have your final intensity at? I am hoping to achieve 100% blue and roughly 40-50% white. My lights are 12" from the water surface and my tank is 22" deep from the top. I think I can safely accomplish it.

[garygonzales]

that's where im at currently....

[themummra]

Has anyone found or made a LED layout for the Mars 300w? I haven't found one yet

[asudavew]

I think I will try a couple of these out.

[rgulrich]

@themummra - This is what I came up with for the "stock" 300w and posted substantially upthread:


I altered my layout a bit through some ebay purchases to:


And then I picked up and custom cut some diffuser sheets and removed the stock lenses in both the foru MarsAqua and two Galaxy Hydro fixtures:


I'm not worried about PAR or PUR at depth in the 300 as it's well over 200 PAR even without the lenses...75% "white (lotsa blue)" channel and 100% "blue" channel.
Heres' the Galaxy Hydro 165W after I customized it:

and


Over the reef:



And the coral grows pretty well, too (and so does algae on occasion...sigh).


Hope this helps.
Cheers,
Ray

[RealReef7]

Hi how many 165w mars units would you guys use on a 96"x30"x24" mixed reef mainly consisting of sps (mid-top half of tank) /lps corals (bottom-mid tank)? I'm currently running 3x400w halides and 6xt5HO to supplement. I plan on still using my T5's with the mars, just looking to save a few bucks on the electrical bill! Also I figured if I go LED's I may not have to run my chiller.

[outy]

Originally Posted by RealReef7

Hi how many 165w mars units would you guys use on a 96"x30"x24" .

Minimum of 1 every 24" so 4 at minimum and 5 being possibly optimal.

I'm running 3 similar units for 72" 30" deep, but because of slight shadowing I may raise the lights higher. I have seen 4 on my dimensions and you could still see shadowing due to the tanks crossbars.

Your crossbars may dictate between 4 and 5

[zachrabbit15]

Originally Posted by iced98lx

This is how I am running mine now:



And how I hung them (excuse my wiring mess):

Hello, glad I took the time to go through this thread. Your set up is exactly what I'm planning to do not on my 360, except I plan to run 4 LEDs and a supra slimline front and back. My tank is 92x30.

Also thinking about removing the lenses and replacing with diffusor frosted diffusor panels. Anyone try this?

[iced98lx]

Originally Posted by zachrabbit15

Hello, glad I took the time to go through this thread. Your set up is exactly what I'm planning to do not on my 360, except I plan to run 4 LEDs and a supra slimline front and back. My tank is 92x30.

Also thinking about removing the lenses and replacing with diffusor frosted diffusor panels. Anyone try this?

The frosted diffusion panel has been done with good results (not sure if they had lenses on or off). I also flipped to SBReef retro panels and I really like them despite slightly lower PAR than the originals (the original par increase I contribute 100% to the aggressive lenses). I am working to put another set of T5's on as well, as I'd like to run one more coralplus and an ATI true actinic in addition to my current two coral plus bulbs.