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08/27/2010, 07:09 PM | #26 |
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Thanks DWZM, I think I can just kinda put it together one piece at a time and compensate for the sockets in the fittings when I cut the PVC, since its a small tank, it shouldnt be an issue as most of the plumbing is fittings anyway lol... Just small bits of pipe to actually connect one fitting to another.
I'll email my self pics of my fittings real quick and post what i've got going on. |
08/27/2010, 07:11 PM | #27 | |
aka John K
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Quote:
The above is the most useful suggestion here IMO. lubricating will interfere with cementing, and dry fitting will never be accurate. Carefully cutting square and measuring accurately will get you closer than anything else suggested. Repeating - dry fitting is NEVER accurate, and lubrication is going to mess with the cementing process
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my reef ate my wallet Current Tank Info: 57G, RBTA's Zoa's and softies |
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08/27/2010, 07:27 PM | #28 |
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So here's the plumbing pics... One is a pic of just the pieces laying out, the other is a pic of the parts just laying down in a mock up of their actual layout... then i just posted a pic of the bottom pane of glass for my external trough. 3 bulkheads for the bean animal drain system!
YAY! What do you think? -Scott |
08/27/2010, 07:29 PM | #29 | ||
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Quote:
The socket (female) portion of the joint is tapered, the male portion is not. While we can consider the fit an "interference fit" and many manufactures list the joint as such, it is more akin to jamming a round peg in a square hole When I think of "interference fit" I imagine a joint where both the male and female fittings are tapered to the same high tolerance or a parallel fit that requires one part to be expanded (or contracted) to fit the joint. A morse taper quill and arbor (tapered interference fit) or a bearing on a motor shaft (parallel interference fit) are examples. Not trying to argue, just kinda laughing at how poorly PVC pipe tolerances really are. Quote:
Does a rock fall to earth or is it pulled to earth |
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08/27/2010, 07:57 PM | #30 |
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I'll dry fit deep enough so it doesn't fall off and I'll mark the pipe and fitting, glue and move on. I won't cut all the pieces at once but go joint to joint. Just spend time taking in account fitting depth.
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. Current Tank Info: 145g Starfire display (mixed reef) w/75g basement sump & 20g refugium, Barracuda return, Dart w/OM 4way CL, AI Hydras and Director. |
08/27/2010, 09:34 PM | #31 |
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08/28/2010, 03:44 PM | #32 | |
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Quote:
clear cleaner and clear glue wont make a mess |
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08/28/2010, 04:58 PM | #33 |
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My concern is that the plumbing is supported by its own joints and the pump. There really should be support hangers to carry the load.
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08/28/2010, 05:42 PM | #34 |
aka John K
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The non removable check valve worries me.
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my reef ate my wallet Current Tank Info: 57G, RBTA's Zoa's and softies |
08/28/2010, 06:25 PM | #35 |
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Did even notice the CV... I certainly hope that has NOTHING to do with flood prevention.
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08/28/2010, 08:57 PM | #36 |
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yes it is non removeable, but will be removed in the near future and replaced with a better system. the sump can handle the full siphon of the tank to the inlets.
Plumbing is supported but cannot be seen in the photo. ive always like the blue. lets me know I got it good.
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What a Pretty day to stick your head in your tank and stare at your corals. 15 years reef keeping experience in old school simplistic ways. /><{{{{"> Archon BETA Current Tank Info: 66 Gallon SCA Rimless, Custom 40 Breeder sump, DC pumps, Lumentek Pro 240 controlled by my Archon |
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