Frag Tank Plumbing

jharding08 · 01/06/2016, 12:04 PM

For Christmas, my father-in-law surprised me with an acrylic tank built to the specifics that we were just talking about one day. It is made with 3/8" acrylic, with the front panel 1/2"

It doesnt have any drain or return holes drilled yet and this is where I am looking for some advice.

I designed the overflow to wide enough to accomodate a 1" bulkhead. I plan on doing a bean animal overflow, but will probably have to allow for more space between bulkheads since the elbows will have to be horizontal in the overflow rather than each one vertical.

For returns, I have space on the outside of the overflow, on the back wall of the tank or I could do bulkheads in the overflow for returns. I plan on using the SCWD I have on my current frag tank and using either the current Sicce 2.0, or bumping up to a Sicce 5.0. since this will be the main water flow (for now until I get a Gyre).

1. Should I keep my returns at 3/4" since that is what the SCWD uses and that is the outlet size for the Sicce 2.0 and 5.0?
2. Should I use bulkheads in the overflow box for the return or drill the back wall? If I do the back wall, should I use bulkheads below the water level or just the male threaded ball end of loc line above the water level?
3. For the bean animal drains, I will have three bulkheads in the bottom of the overflow box. What is the best use of pvc elbows to get the siphon/open channel and emergency in 3.5" wide overflow?

Thank you for your help.

For this frag tank, instead of egg crate "steps" like I have now, I plan on just using some low, wide and long pieces of live rock as islands in the tank, where I can glue frags to it as well as have frags on the bare bottom as well. 1. What should I put between the live rock and the bare acrylic bottom to prevent scratching? Egg crate will stick out too much

toothybugs · 01/06/2016, 12:06 PM

I'd grab a sheet of acrylic of polycarbonate from Lowe's or HD (the 1/8" stuff) and use that. Then scrap it as needed.

For your bulkhead question, I would personally stick to 3/4 bulkheads since I find them easier to work with than bigger ones. Nominally, anyway - if you are running more than 3 feet though you get less hose friction going with a 1" hose and bulkhead.

And elbows: no one says you have to use them. I have mine set up with two standpipes and my siphon line only has a grate over it because my box was drilled for 1.5" bulkheads but will NOT fit 2 pipes set up with downturned elbows, let alone 3. My siphon line only has the grate over it, the open has a 3" high open pipe (seriously, it's just a 4" piece of pipe sticking up, no elbow or anything) and my emergency is a half inch higher. Works great and I don't get any air sucked in to my siphon.

jharding08 · 01/06/2016, 12:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by toothybugs

I'd grab a sheet of acrylic of polycarbonate from Lowe's or HD (the 1/8" stuff) and use that. Then scrap it as needed.

A full sheet to cover the bottom or just the bottom of the live rock?

toothybugs · 01/06/2016, 12:15 PM

Your preference. No edges really if you go over the full bottom, nor are there edges if you cut pieces small enough to be hidden by the rocks but still cover their points.

McPuff · 01/06/2016, 12:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jharding08

A full sheet to cover the bottom or just the bottom of the live rock?

I think he's suggesting making a frag rack out of the acrylic sheet by drilling holes into it. Truthfully this looks much better and also grows less algae... the egg crate will work fine but it has so many nooks and crannies for algae to take hold.

jharding08 · 01/06/2016, 12:26 PM

Another question I just thought of. What is the best acrylic algae cleaner? I have a mag float supposedly for acrylic, but it looks like it scratches my current frag tank. I have to put a mesh over the in water part so it doesnt scratch

jharding08 · 01/06/2016, 05:45 PM

Also, if I want to use check valves (either swing check or wye check valves), should I install one before the SCWD(between return pump and SCWD) or two right before the return nozzle and bulkhead(between return nozzle/bulkhead and SCWD)?

jharding08 · 01/07/2016, 03:00 PM

Here are my plans for my bulkhead holes:

Return: 3/4" Threaded on flange side, slip on back side. PLan on using 3/4" loc line for return nozzles and pvc and flex pvc to tie the returns to the SCWD. Will put check valve between SCWD and return pump so minimal water returns to sump on power outage

Overflow:
3x 1" SlipxSlip Bulkhead
6" apart so I can use a 1" 90 elbow with 1" street elbow for my siphon and open channels. Emergency drain will be a single pvc pipe in bulkhead, right below tank water level, but about 1/2" above open channel. Open channel will be 3/4" taller than siphon channel to allow for siphon to start easier

01/06/2016, 12:04 PM	#1
jharding08 BlueWorldAquatics.com Join Date: May 2012 Location: Murrieta, CA Posts: 657	Frag Tank Plumbing For Christmas, my father-in-law surprised me with an acrylic tank built to the specifics that we were just talking about one day. It is made with 3/8" acrylic, with the front panel 1/2" It doesnt have any drain or return holes drilled yet and this is where I am looking for some advice. I designed the overflow to wide enough to accomodate a 1" bulkhead. I plan on doing a bean animal overflow, but will probably have to allow for more space between bulkheads since the elbows will have to be horizontal in the overflow rather than each one vertical. For returns, I have space on the outside of the overflow, on the back wall of the tank or I could do bulkheads in the overflow for returns. I plan on using the SCWD I have on my current frag tank and using either the current Sicce 2.0, or bumping up to a Sicce 5.0. since this will be the main water flow (for now until I get a Gyre). 1. Should I keep my returns at 3/4" since that is what the SCWD uses and that is the outlet size for the Sicce 2.0 and 5.0? 2. Should I use bulkheads in the overflow box for the return or drill the back wall? If I do the back wall, should I use bulkheads below the water level or just the male threaded ball end of loc line above the water level? 3. For the bean animal drains, I will have three bulkheads in the bottom of the overflow box. What is the best use of pvc elbows to get the siphon/open channel and emergency in 3.5" wide overflow? Thank you for your help. For this frag tank, instead of egg crate "steps" like I have now, I plan on just using some low, wide and long pieces of live rock as islands in the tank, where I can glue frags to it as well as have frags on the bare bottom as well. 1. What should I put between the live rock and the bare acrylic bottom to prevent scratching? Egg crate will stick out too much __________________ Stats: 180 g Mixed SPS/LPS reef tank, 30 gallon sump, live rock, GFO\Carbon, AquaMaxx AM250 in-sump skimmer, felt filter socks, cleaning crew

01/06/2016, 12:06 PM	#2
toothybugs In Memoriam Join Date: Aug 2013 Location: The smallest county in Illinois Posts: 1,986	I'd grab a sheet of acrylic of polycarbonate from Lowe's or HD (the 1/8" stuff) and use that. Then scrap it as needed. For your bulkhead question, I would personally stick to 3/4 bulkheads since I find them easier to work with than bigger ones. Nominally, anyway - if you are running more than 3 feet though you get less hose friction going with a 1" hose and bulkhead. And elbows: no one says you have to use them. I have mine set up with two standpipes and my siphon line only has a grate over it because my box was drilled for 1.5" bulkheads but will NOT fit 2 pipes set up with downturned elbows, let alone 3. My siphon line only has the grate over it, the open has a 3" high open pipe (seriously, it's just a 4" piece of pipe sticking up, no elbow or anything) and my emergency is a half inch higher. Works great and I don't get any air sucked in to my siphon. Last edited by toothybugs; 01/06/2016 at 12:13 PM.

01/06/2016, 12:26 PM	#6
jharding08 BlueWorldAquatics.com Join Date: May 2012 Location: Murrieta, CA Posts: 657	Another question I just thought of. What is the best acrylic algae cleaner? I have a mag float supposedly for acrylic, but it looks like it scratches my current frag tank. I have to put a mesh over the in water part so it doesnt scratch __________________ Stats: 180 g Mixed SPS/LPS reef tank, 30 gallon sump, live rock, GFO\Carbon, AquaMaxx AM250 in-sump skimmer, felt filter socks, cleaning crew

01/06/2016, 05:45 PM	#7
jharding08 BlueWorldAquatics.com Join Date: May 2012 Location: Murrieta, CA Posts: 657	Also, if I want to use check valves (either swing check or wye check valves), should I install one before the SCWD(between return pump and SCWD) or two right before the return nozzle and bulkhead(between return nozzle/bulkhead and SCWD)? __________________ Stats: 180 g Mixed SPS/LPS reef tank, 30 gallon sump, live rock, GFO\Carbon, AquaMaxx AM250 in-sump skimmer, felt filter socks, cleaning crew

01/07/2016, 03:00 PM	#8
jharding08 BlueWorldAquatics.com Join Date: May 2012 Location: Murrieta, CA Posts: 657	Here are my plans for my bulkhead holes: Return: 3/4" Threaded on flange side, slip on back side. PLan on using 3/4" loc line for return nozzles and pvc and flex pvc to tie the returns to the SCWD. Will put check valve between SCWD and return pump so minimal water returns to sump on power outage Overflow: 3x 1" SlipxSlip Bulkhead 6" apart so I can use a 1" 90 elbow with 1" street elbow for my siphon and open channels. Emergency drain will be a single pvc pipe in bulkhead, right below tank water level, but about 1/2" above open channel. Open channel will be 3/4" taller than siphon channel to allow for siphon to start easier __________________ Stats: 180 g Mixed SPS/LPS reef tank, 30 gallon sump, live rock, GFO\Carbon, AquaMaxx AM250 in-sump skimmer, felt filter socks, cleaning crew

01/06/2016, 12:15 PM	#4
toothybugs In Memoriam Join Date: Aug 2013 Location: The smallest county in Illinois Posts: 1,986	Your preference. No edges really if you go over the full bottom, nor are there edges if you cut pieces small enough to be hidden by the rocks but still cover their points.