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Unread 09/19/2018, 02:59 PM   #1
Aquavaj
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Continue QT or move to DT

I got a small Powder Blue Tang on Sunday that's currently in QT right now in a 20g long. It's currently in there with a Flame Angel. I know it's way too small for a PBT but that's all I have space for right now.

The FA seems content in there for now but the PBT doesn't look too happy. It's not swimming in circles or anything but not normal behavior either. It hasn't touched anything I've given it (frozen mysis, flake, and pellets all soaked in garlic and nori on a rock). I have live rock and pvc in there since I'm not treating for anything.

I feel this is just stressing it out more and it may be better just to get it into the 120g DT. I'm contemplating this but the risk of spreading ich into the DT has me worried too. I still have my 40g AIO up but with the false wall and fairly deep SB it really isn't that much bigger - 36x14x15h.


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Unread 09/19/2018, 04:12 PM   #2
Uncle Luke
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I personally would not risk it. He's already not eating and PBT's are ich magnets.


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Unread 09/19/2018, 04:49 PM   #3
Sisterlimonpot
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3 days isn't long enough to know whether or not you're dealing with any parasites, flukes, worms etc... If you choose to put the PBT in the display you will negate the QT practice altogether.


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Unread 09/19/2018, 06:32 PM   #4
sfdan
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The reason to quarantine fish is to protect all the fish in your DT from disease and allow yourself a way to treat the fish if you notice a disease. By taking a fish you've observed for 3 days, isn't looking acclimated, and putting that into your DT you've completely lost both benefits.

A QT tank can be less stressful than the DT in some ways (targeted feedings, lower light levels, no aggressive tank-mates), but more stressful in others (smaller size, fewer hiding spots). You obviously want to do everything possible to minimize stress, but stress is going to happen and is unavoidable. I do the tank transfer method (TTM) for all of my fish, and this certainly introduces quite a bit of stress in the short term, but in the long term it guarantees all my fish are ich-free. I'd certainly be sad if one of my fish died in QT (which fortunately hasn't happened yet), but I'd understand that is a cost to protect all my other fish.

So while I understand your concern about the stress of the fish, I'd keep observing and keep feeding and take it one day at a time. I would not put a fish into my DT until I was confident it was healthy.


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Unread 09/20/2018, 08:23 AM   #5
artieg
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Voice of experience here. This is exactly when you don't want to just plop the fish in your DT. The potential heartache here is not worth it. Note, that doesn't mean you should not look at your QT protocol and make sure you are maximizing the healthy environment in QT.


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Unread 09/20/2018, 08:27 AM   #6
Aquavaj
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Yes I do agree that a few days isn't enough and moving it over at this point makes having the QT worthless. I will be patient and continue QT. I heard most fish cannot resist blood worms so I'll try some of that just to get it eating.

The FA is adjusting well. It's starting to come out when I feed and pokes its head out to look at me when I'm near.


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Unread 09/20/2018, 09:44 AM   #7
Mike.B
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I would not move to the DT. I just did this exact thing your thinking of doing and now as of last night got my rock work altogether. Reason: Disease spread, fish died and I have to now leave the DT in fallow for 8 weeks. See my build thread for details.

Do not risk this. Test for ammonia/nitrite as well. You may have an issue with the added bioload. This was a hard lesson for me. Consider a bigger quarantine tank for the PBT. Cheap to get a 40-50g off craigslist, kijiji, etc.


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Unread 09/20/2018, 10:05 AM   #8
Louis Z
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In a pinch you can use a plastic tote in a large size to put him in. Unfortunately you will not be able to observe him well to see if he is ill . I would black out the 3 sides of the aquarium with black if you keep him in there . Cheap way is to use black plastic bags . Dim the lights . Only raise them when you want to check on him. Put some type of black pvc pipe joints so he can hide in . You may want to add a thin layer of sand to the bottom . You can later discard it or sterilize it later . I have used limestone rock with limestone tile to lay across the rocks to make a cave like structure . Again You can disinfect it later ( cheap if you find broken pieces at HD ) . Would be better to find a cheap used tank that’s at least 4 ft like mike B suggested . Tangs like to swim . And most don’t like shallow tanks. They are nervous enough at it is. But don’t put him in display tank if he is not cleared . Otherwise you will have to relocate all of your established fish into HT and treat them too


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Unread 09/20/2018, 10:17 AM   #9
Louis Z
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Also make sure you keep track of ammonia like mike B stated. .several fish in a QT tank with uneaten food can lead to ammonia spike in two days . I check my qt tanks every day with the cheap ammonia test kits . Doesn’t take long for them to perish under high ammonia. If you don’t like wasting that much water in a largeQT tank , you can always collect and disinfect used water in a brute trashcan with Chlorine and then neutralize later and then put a biofilter to remove wastes .


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Unread 09/20/2018, 10:38 AM   #10
Aquavaj
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Other than the size I think I have everything set to make it comfortable as possible. I have a pvc T pipe that it hides and sleeps in. There's 3 fist size live rock to help with the ammonia as well as a HOB filter. I have the ammonia badge and still showing safe but I'll do a water change tonight just to be safe. Temp is between 77-79.

No kids and we're all gone most of the day so nothing to constantly spook them. I have a small led pendant set to come on 11-9. I use a piece of white paper underneath to help diffuse and soften the light. I find having no lights on makes them skittish.


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Unread 09/20/2018, 10:13 PM   #11
Louis Z
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It’s one of those things with tangs , If they are uncomfortable and skittish then they don’t eat and waste away in qt tank . I had one tang in a 40 B that was like that . Always-hid never ate . So I tried to develop new method of keeping the fish feeling secure . And not giving up until they are calm. I have a 50gallon ready to use as a back up. It’s a throwaway but still holds water . I also have a 40 ish tall tank that is fully functioning at all times with live rock and skimmer and sand . It’s the final stopover until I evaluate whether they can go into the DT. They have gone thru TTM and all the medication at that point.


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Unread 09/21/2018, 10:21 AM   #12
Aquavaj
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I picked up some frozen bloodworms and brine shrimp soaked in garlic last night to try. The FA went nuts on the worms but PBT refused to touch anything. Not even the slightest hint of interest. The nori I tied to a rock looked untouched and just rotted away.

Kind of at a lost right now. The FA I'll be taking out tonight to put in the acclimation box for the DT I have coming in today. The PBT will then be alone but I don't think that'll make any difference cause the FA never bothered him anyways.


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Unread 09/22/2018, 02:27 PM   #13
Louis Z
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Did you ad 1/4 in sand? Did u black out the sides . Can you go to Home D and buy those long Rubbermaid tubs? Did you make a cave like atmosphere so he can swim in and around the live rock you have . All it takes is a few pieces of tile to lay upon your live rock . He may swim in and thru those and feel secure . A 20 gal is too small for tangs


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Unread 09/22/2018, 02:39 PM   #14
Louis Z
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The other point is that flame angel . Has it gone thru 3 tank transfers of TTM to eliminate Ick . Did u dip in FW , or Seachems Paraguard to eliminate flukes . Did u treat with metronidazole/ prazipro to try and eliminate parasites ? Like the other experienced posters have recommended is not to add fish to DT until Qt And treated . Why would you add FA if not the PBT. I am at a loss when u say your at a loss with all of the above recommendations you are ignoring . Sorry to tell u straight but I don’t know what else to do to help u .


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Unread 09/24/2018, 11:36 AM   #15
Aquavaj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Louis Z View Post
The other point is that flame angel . Has it gone thru 3 tank transfers of TTM to eliminate Ick . Did u dip in FW , or Seachems Paraguard to eliminate flukes . Did u treat with metronidazole/ prazipro to try and eliminate parasites ? Like the other experienced posters have recommended is not to add fish to DT until Qt And treated . Why would you add FA if not the PBT. I am at a loss when u say your at a loss with all of the above recommendations you are ignoring . Sorry to tell u straight but I don’t know what else to do to help u .
I'm not too concern about the FA. I actually added it to DT after acclimation but it was getting bullied heavily by the Coral Beauty so I removed it. Call me foolish and maybe I'm just lucky but I've never QT in the past and never lost a fish due to illness.

My main concern is the PBT since they are highly ich prone so that's why I QT it. I don't treat unless I see signs. But that's besides the point. Right now I'm just trying to get it to eat, which so far it has refused everything and that's what I'm struggling with.

But I went ahead and put it in the 40g and moved the YT to the QT. It has sand and more rocks. I rearranged them to provide the best cover and hiding places. So far it looks a lot more comfortable in this tank and is atleast picking at the rocks and sand. Still not sure if it's eating the nori I tied to a rock or taking the food soaked in selcon. Hopefully with it being more comfortable it'll start taking food soon.


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Unread 09/24/2018, 08:32 PM   #16
Silly clownfish
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Since you already moved the FA to the DT, if the PBT has ick, the FA likely just carried ick to the DT. You have negated top he point of your QT. I am not sure where the YT in your last post came from, but if you put it in the QT without disinfecting the QT after the PBT, then you potentially infected the YT.

At this point, since the FA has contaminated the DT, you might as well move the PBT too.

Now if the CB is a bully, then that could be a whole different problem for the PBT. And 2 tangs and 2 dwarf angels in a 120g tank sounds like it might be problematic even if disease is not an issue. But that is a topic for another thread...


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Unread 09/24/2018, 11:03 PM   #17
Louis Z
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Time will tell if they have ick or something else . Yes I have had fish look as if they didn’t have ick but I make sure they don’t by a lengthy qt and prophylactic treatment . It’s Russian roulette . I have had one fish bring in velvet when I was just starting out and it wiped out my whole tank . Losing so many fish made me sick and upset with myself so I learned from that . Most of the fish I see in LFS are I’ll with something. You have been lucky so far but eventually a Seven is rolled. I can diagnose what I see now and decide if the fish is treatable and whether or not Iwant to go thru the treatment process with that particular fish. Yes adding the PBT now is fine since the FA went in . Sort of too late now and might as well . Yes your choice of compatible fish needs some help. I think those are very pretty fish but some of the most intolerant too.


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Unread 09/25/2018, 01:24 PM   #18
Hal
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FWIW, I quarantined my powder blue in a 20L for 3 months with no ill effects. He was relatively small (2 to 2.5 inches). Normally I don't QT for that long, but because PB's have a reputation for ick, I thought I'd rather be safe than sorry.

One thing I found that helps is to have strong flow in the QT for the PB.


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Unread 10/02/2018, 09:00 AM   #19
Louis Z
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Got a blue hippo tang and same issue as not eating in QT. tried the hi flow method . He came out and started eating, so water current may work on tangs. After eating I will shut off the water pump.


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Unread 10/02/2018, 09:15 AM   #20
Reefer Tom
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My tank is fallow right now thanks to my lack of patients with a powder blue. It came in with velvet. Quick killer. Don't risk it! I learned my lesson!


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Unread 10/03/2018, 07:18 AM   #21
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I use a 20 gal for my QT but only fill it to 16 gal. It has worked very well for everything. I have live rock in there and when the fish get to QT (from TTM) they begin to act MUCH more comfortable. Begin to show their real personalities. Also change about 4 gal water per week and rinse out the filter pad (over the back filter). I put card stock on the bottom of the tank and keep forgetting to block the sides and back... but it really does make a difference. Should just paint the sides, back, and bottom to make the fish more comfortable. I will certainly do this after this current round of fish are moved into the DT.

I agree with the other posters... have to take both fish through TTM, then put them into the QT and treat with prazipro, metronidazole, and kanaplex (my drugs of choice). TTM is 12 days and the most "intensive" part of the process (though it's quite easy). Then I do QT for a month or longer if the fish needs to grow or just become more comfortable. After that I may also do an acclimation box within the DT (depends on the fish).

All of this can be done with DIY equipment (but not DIY drugs) so it won't be too expensive. For example, I made a DIY acclimation box out of a spare acrylic aquarium lid... it was essentially free. It's also bigger than the ones you buy for $50 or more. Super easy.


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