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06/09/2010, 05:30 PM | #101 |
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Santoki, did you measure PAR when you setup the LED lighting? If so how do those measurements compare to currently?
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06/09/2010, 05:49 PM | #102 |
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PAR measurements are in my original build thread here.
I have not made any new measurements since they were first built. I don't expect to see any luminous decay with these Crees in the less than one year they have been running. Assuming proper cooling, these emitters are rated to keep at least 70% of their original output after 11 years when run at 12 hours per day. -R |
06/09/2010, 11:05 PM | #103 | |
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You're right. It shouldn't be an issue since the emitters have a low end of 50k hrs. In optimal conditions this is much higher according to Cree's website. On another thread a person was monitoring while switching out different optics and noted an increase in PAR after cycling through the optics a second time. He attributed this increase to a possible "burn in" period.
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Nate Current Tank Info: 15g Waterbox cube |
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06/09/2010, 11:22 PM | #104 | |
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06/09/2010, 11:56 PM | #105 | |
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Quote:
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Brett Current Tank Info: Leemar 60x36x24, 8x80 T5/LED Sfiligoi GENESIS Alpha 300 skimmer |
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06/10/2010, 02:25 AM | #106 | |
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I am convinced that LED can grow SPS, some of your tank are really nice and sick looking, but I yet to see the same level of breath-taking color and subtle contrast effect from SPS grown by MH, it is kind of feeling that the moment when you see that piece you tell youself I want a frag no matter what. It may all changed in another 2 years, thanks guys for pioneering!
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06/10/2010, 07:17 AM | #107 |
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i'm working on sps color as well, the cool white with royal blue combo isn't off by much, my feeling is there needs to be 1 more color temp of white and blue in the mix, i'm in the process of getting 4 PAR38's with 60 optics that have 4 cool blue(470nm) and 1 neutral white led in them, this will allow me to see if a different white/blue blend will allieviate whatever sps color issue's people are having
i've noticed Acan's, Chalice, Zoa's, lps all keep there color fine and do great under the leds, it's just hit or miss for certain sps color's, some of my colors looks great under leds while others have browned a little my tank has only been up a little over 3 months so it's still new and i'm still working out the bugs, water qaulity and lighting both play huge roles in color and i feel in the next 8-9 months i'll be able to achieve the color and growth people are looking for, i'm more than willing to try as many differen leds that i have to until i get the combo right to all the T5 and MH guru's just remember that MH and T5 weren't the norm years ago when this hobby started, remember they used to use NO flourescents, lol pioneering is fun for everyone |
06/10/2010, 08:47 AM | #108 |
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He is using 1 x 12K, 2 x 16K, 2 x 22K, 1 x 440nm actinic and 1 x 470nm actinic for a total of 7 tubes.
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Scott Current Tank Info: 210 gallon 72"L x 25"H x 27"W custom 3/4" acrylic reef tank with custom sump, 3 x Radion XR30 Pro with 2 80 watt T5, Aqua C EV180 skimmer, Geo 818 CA reactor, 4 x Vortech mp40 & 2 MP60, Apex controller |
06/10/2010, 09:49 AM | #109 |
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I think the focus really needs to be more on husbandry/water quality rather than lighting. IME for the most part, I've always produced similar color intensities no matter what type of lighting I used. It wasn't until fairly recently that I've noticed improvements after getting my water parameters where they should be and stable.
We seem to forget the "65k" sodium vapor bulbs that were used way back in the day. SPS grew and displayed nice colors under those lights. No one would even think about using those nowadays. -R |
06/10/2010, 11:21 AM | #110 | |
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06/22/2010, 03:54 AM | #111 |
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anymore tanks?
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Since Jan 2008 Current system: 170G+50g Sump/Bio-Pellet Reactor. 2x400w Radium+2x110w VHO. 2 x HYDRO Magnum 8 + 1xMP60w (removed 2 x Koralia 4). SWC 300A Cone (had SWC 200 w/ Red Demon); it's AWESOME! BRS DOSER(Cal, Alk, and Mag). Current Tank Info: 170g+50g sump |
06/22/2010, 11:06 AM | #112 |
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I can't wait to make the switch.
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06/22/2010, 02:19 PM | #113 |
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These LED's look nice an all but I'm still looking for the facts that these are going to last long term... They may be good for a year or two but what happens after that? They may be good for a year or 6 months? But I guess we will not know until it is tried out and people actually have success so far they look good on some tanks. I just wish we can get some manufacturer specs or something that they've tested on long term that has worked well over a year or more.
We have all these LED's out now and I have yet to see any real proof that they are going to last as long as they say they will? I even hear 8year??? Well if anyone out there has the facts from a manufacturer let me know and point me to the right direction....
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90G- Powered By Tek T-5 8 bulb 1X MP10wES,1 MP40wes, Waveline DC4000, Octopus Skimmer NW150, Apex lite, Eshopps RS200 sump 80G Frag system- Powered by 2X MH Pendants with 250W 20K Radiums, DIY S |
06/22/2010, 04:01 PM | #114 | |
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All your concerns are addressed here and then some... -R |
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06/22/2010, 09:03 PM | #115 |
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fts rts lts its a 29 biocube w/ a retrofit leds, vortech 10es, tunze 9002, mj1200 upgrade. i have 16 cree xpg royblues and 10 q5's cool whites dimmed at 60%. dose vitamin c and use tropic marin bio calcium. weekly 4g wc w/ reef crystal salt. this photo was taken around early march. you can see the comparison with the fts that were taken today. Last edited by reeftrinh; 06/22/2010 at 09:10 PM. Reason: added info |
07/16/2010, 12:21 PM | #116 | |
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07/16/2010, 12:44 PM | #117 | |
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All it takes is one Alk spike or drop to make for a really bad day. And that has nothing to do with LEDs. -R |
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07/16/2010, 01:35 PM | #118 |
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My biggest problem with LEDs is (granted it is well down the road) when the time comes to change them out. It is most certainly not a task for the average hobbysit. Maybe things will change, but I see that being a big drawback - even so, I am using LEDs on my frag tank (PAR 38) to see how the frags grow - half is under MH/T5 combo, the otehr half LED. Curious to see how it plays out.
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07/16/2010, 02:18 PM | #119 | |
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However, your point highlights the importance of choosing a fixture which is built with good quality emitters, which tend to have much better lumen maintenance. This ensures the end user is getting their money's worth. Most commercial manufactures do not publish what types of LEDs they use let alone specifications like lumen maintenance. If you are building the unit yourself, then replacement ease is a moot point. -R |
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07/16/2010, 07:36 PM | #120 | |
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07/22/2010, 10:51 AM | #121 |
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From a DIY point of view LED's offer the unique ability to customize the look of your tank as it relates to color. Buying something premade from a manufacture you are getting what they build and sell rather than picking and choosing when you build your own. Not to mention you can custom fit surface coverage and by using optics focus areas that may otherwise need more or less lighting.
I think more and more people are starting to see how darn easy it is to build these rigs so we should see more and more sample images coming. I've started with a 6 gallon nano and now planning a 20 gallon for my son and a 150 gallon main display. I wouldn't use anything else moving forward just because of the control I have. Not to mention the DIY forum has just too much initial positive vib about them its too hard to ignore. They are here and I don't think it is going to go away. But how good they are in the long run is hard to say because there are two fronts to watch. Manufacture vs DIY. I think those who DIY will yield the best results though but that is just one mans opinion. If nothing else its a expierment and fun
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07/25/2010, 03:30 PM | #122 |
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Ho' Kay!
... So Ive read this thread and many more and it seems like people are missing something here...
I keep reading "LEDs cause browning" and "loss of color" or... "not good color" etc... it seems like COLOR is the MAIN issue, not growth.... Maybe its JUST ME but In most of the brown SPS LED lit tanks.... Im seeing algal growth.... hair, brown dinos, diatoms.. some sort of algal growth.... which is obviously a nutrient issue.... Unstable water parameters will also cause browning if I remember correctly... So can we not assume that this is a possible cause of coral browning... that it is a possibility that the Nutrient issues have gotten correlated with LED lighting? It makes sense to me that if someone upgrades their lighting on their aquarium they are probably going to start paying more attention to it, possible feeding more, whether it be fish or corals... which could cause a nutient load increase... this is one possibility. Non-the-less, this is what I keep noticing in brown SPS LED lit tanks... ALGAE!
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07/26/2010, 04:16 AM | #123 |
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I think the browned out looking corals come from the photographers limitations. I am not a great camera man by any means. I have a DSLR with 6 different senses and I have a hell of a time getting my acro to show its true color. In person they are a nice green with blue tips, however when I take a pic the go brown. Atleast that is my problem...
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07/28/2010, 08:20 PM | #124 |
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LED VS MH(3x400 20k)-----Yes I took the plunge and to be quite honest I don't think Ill ever go back.
This systems have sooo much capability and yes for my trained eyes the spectrum takes some time to get used to but I do think with minimal T5 supplementation the 20k look can be acomplished and provide corals enuff light for color. This experiment is way to new only a week, but in 6 months I will have more info for you guys. First pic 3x400 20k on lumenbrights- galaxy e-ballasts-- powerbrite supps x 10 [/IMG] This pic under 4 aquaillumination modules at 50% white/100%blue [/IMG]
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07/28/2010, 08:30 PM | #125 |
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Again its very hard to draw conclusions since my tank has been under LEDS for a week only and I still son't have a color combo I like.
Will the acros loose color must likely since its a big change, will they get it back its only a matter of time, patience and some good husbandry.
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