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05/24/2006, 07:42 PM | #1 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 114
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dying anemone?
I have a bubble tip anemone which has remained contracted for several days now. He is planted deep within my LR, and barely comes out at all during the day when the metal halide turns on. I can barely even see him in the LR now. How do I know if he is dying? And what can i do to save him? The only new parameter I can think of is that I have been adding garlic to the food for an ich infection for another fish. No new critters have been added in almost 2 months. There is a brittle star fish which the anemone has planted itself next to deep in the rocks, but was never a problem the last 2 months I've had them both. I don't usually target feed him, as he had been doing fine lately. Should I consider breaking up the landscape to see him better and start to target feed him? How can you tell if they are starving, or even dead? So sad to lose him, please advise!
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05/24/2006, 07:46 PM | #2 |
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Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: illinois
Posts: 142
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hard to tell for sure, i had an anemone that would stay cosed up for a few days at a time every couple of months. but it's hard to say why. always came back bigger than before.
jd |
05/24/2006, 07:59 PM | #3 |
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Kalamazoo, Canada
Posts: 769
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I have a BTA and it doesn't like intense lighting it will come out and open up in moderate lighting. I feed my BTA every second day with chunks of shrimp and it is growing steadily. I have read other articles that BTA don't need to be kept in Metal halides!
I know carpets need intense lighting to survive. |
05/24/2006, 08:52 PM | #4 |
RC Mod
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It may think the light is too bright. Increase the photoperiod of your actinics if you have them. Try some target feeding in its area, but don't pull at the rocks: you might injure it, if it should be attached to one of them. If they start to go, they turn to slime and you pretty well know it. Have carbon handy if that happens, and use it aggressively; likewise have salt and ro water handy for a partial water change, but otherwise just be patient and hope he'll pop out perfectly fine.
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Sk8r Salinity 1.024-6; alkalinity 8.3-9.3 on KH scale; calcium 420; magnesium 1300, temp 78-80, nitrate .2. Ammonia 0. No filters: lps tank. Alk and cal won't rise if mg is low. Current Tank Info: 105g AquaVim wedge, yellow tang, sailfin blenny,royal gramma, ocellaris clown pair, yellow watchman, 100 microceriths, 25 tiny hermits, a 4" conch, 1" nassarius, recovering from 2 year hiatus with daily water change of 10%. |
05/24/2006, 09:10 PM | #5 |
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Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 114
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I do have a 2 and 4 hour period before and after the metal halides go on and off with just actinics on. Although in the past, my anemone has shown to inflate the most when the halide was on, enjoying the light, and contract down with just the actinics on. I'll try to target feed him. I can barely see him to tell if he is getting slimy. Do BTA's shrink down like that when they are going to split?
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05/25/2006, 01:17 AM | #6 |
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Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Bellevue - WA
Posts: 282
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Since I upgraded to MH my carpet anemone that always used to be out is hiding in the shadow of a rock. It opens up more when only the actinics are on.
Give yours some more time, maybe it just doesn't like the lighting too much. |
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