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Unread 02/16/2018, 08:46 PM   #1
Zalick
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Join Date: Dec 2011
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8020 Mount System For 3 Mitra LX7s in a Canopy

What do you all think of think of this 8020 mount system to go inside a canopy? This would hold 3 Mitra LX7s and allow for adjustment vertically and horizontally. Its meant to allow for 1 light to cover an area of 18"x24". Each light would be mounted on the horizontal bar with a ball joint that would allow the angle of the light to be adjusted too.

I chose to use two horizontal supports for each light because I think the rotational force would be a bit too much to have the light supported at the end of an arm and then another 10" horizontal.

The space in between each horizontal support is where a canopy door exists.

I chose to have each light independent so I could adjust the height depending on the coral below.

For my tank I will be making two of these to hold 6 lights.

Any holes in the design?




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300g custom acrylic from James 72x36x27, 4 Mitras Lx7 &6 a360, 2 Stream 3s, C2C beananimal. 100g sump, Jebao DCP- 8000 (Vectra M1 died) -> 114w aquauv -> SRO 5000ext , varios8 return

Current Tank Info: Me v Dinos - I'm winning for now...

Last edited by Zalick; 02/18/2018 at 12:29 PM.
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Unread 02/17/2018, 10:28 AM   #2
Zalick
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Also, does anyone know of quick release type connector so I would not need to unscrew each time to adjust?


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300g custom acrylic from James 72x36x27, 4 Mitras Lx7 &6 a360, 2 Stream 3s, C2C beananimal. 100g sump, Jebao DCP- 8000 (Vectra M1 died) -> 114w aquauv -> SRO 5000ext , varios8 return

Current Tank Info: Me v Dinos - I'm winning for now...
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Unread 02/17/2018, 10:34 AM   #3
Vinny Kreyling
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Best person to ask is Scott, he has used them for years.
Name here is Sleif the Royal Exclusive rep.


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Unread 02/18/2018, 02:13 PM   #4
slief
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The issue you will have is that there really isn’t a good way to mount the LX7’s to the extrusion. What you could do is use these articulating mounts for the Mitras and use some carriage bolts to attach the mounts to the extrusion. Then you could slide the mounts back and forth and be able to angle the lights as needed. That’s how I’ve mounted LED’s to T slot extrusions like those from 8020. Thosea are the same mounts I am using for my Mitras too.



Here is a light rack I made for a local customer using T slot extrusions like those from 8020. I used the articulating mounts from the link above and carriage bolts that slide into the T slot extrusions to mount the articulating base to the extrusion. The articulating mounts include stainless brackets for the Mitras. In the case of the light rack shown in the link below, that was setup with a mix of Kessils and the customers existing AI Hydras.


You can see how I used the carriage bolts to mount the articulating base to the extrusion. The head carriage bolts slide into the T slot in the extrusion and then go through the articulating base. A nut is then used to fasten the base to the extrusion. You can slide the mounts forward and back on the extrusion and then angle the lights in any direction.


The completed light rack over the customers 4’ tall tank. It worked out great and I was able to position and angle all the lights for best coverage and shadow elimination. That said, there were way too many wires and this was shot before I cleaned the wiring up. LOL..



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For All Royal Exclusiv & Bubble King questions please refer to our Sponsor forum: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/fo...play.php?f=745

Current Tank Info: 480G display mixed reef, 90G sump, 90G refugium, 60G display refugium. Check out my build thread: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1783476

Last edited by slief; 02/18/2018 at 02:25 PM.
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Unread 02/18/2018, 02:34 PM   #5
Zalick
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Thanks Scott! Those look great. Nice and clean looking. Can't wait to get my lights and the 8020.

Quote:
Originally Posted by slief View Post
The issue you will have is that there really isn’t a good way to mount the LX7’s to the extrusion. What you could do is use these articulating mounts for the Mitras and use some carriage bolts to attach the mounts to the extrusion. Then you could slide the mounts back and forth and be able to angle the lights as needed. That’s how I’ve mounted LED’s to T slot extrusions like those from 8020. Thosea are the same mounts I am using for my Mitras too.



Here is a light rack I made for a local customer using T slot extrusions like those from 8020. I used the articulating mounts from the link above and carriage bolts that slide into the T slot extrusions to mount the articulating base to the extrusion. The articulating mounts include stainless brackets for the Mitras. In the case of the light rack shown in the link below, that was setup with a mix of Kessils and the customers existing AI Hydras.


You can see how I used the carriage bolts to mount the articulating base to the extrusion. The head carriage bolts slide into the T slot in the extrusion and then go through the articulating base. A nut is then used to fasten the base to the extrusion. You can slide the mounts forward and back on the extrusion and then angle the lights in any direction.


The completed light rack over the customers 4’ tall tank. It worked out great and I was able to position and angle all the lights for best coverage and shadow elimination. That said, there were way too many wires and this was shot before I cleaned the wiring up. LOL..



__________________
300g custom acrylic from James 72x36x27, 4 Mitras Lx7 &6 a360, 2 Stream 3s, C2C beananimal. 100g sump, Jebao DCP- 8000 (Vectra M1 died) -> 114w aquauv -> SRO 5000ext , varios8 return

Current Tank Info: Me v Dinos - I'm winning for now...
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Unread 02/18/2018, 03:07 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zalick View Post
Thanks Scott! Those look great. Nice and clean looking. Can't wait to get my lights and the 8020.
Those mounts are designed for canopy installation eliminate the need for the 8020 if you’re putting this in a canopy. I honestly don’t think you need the 8020. No need for height adjustment since you can adjust intensity and if you angle the two outer fixtures inward, you will maximize the coverage, reduce shadowing, reduce light bleeding onto the side panels and increase intesting in the center because of the additional overlap that the eagled end lights will create in the center of the tank.

These are 3 Mitras LX7’s that I installed using these mounts on my buddy Jim’s frag system. The 2 putter fixtures are angled inward as mentioned above.




__________________
Director Customer Support Royal Exclusiv USA
For All Royal Exclusiv & Bubble King questions please refer to our Sponsor forum: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/fo...play.php?f=745

Current Tank Info: 480G display mixed reef, 90G sump, 90G refugium, 60G display refugium. Check out my build thread: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1783476
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Unread 02/19/2018, 09:02 AM   #7
Zalick
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slief View Post
Those mounts are designed for canopy installation eliminate the need for the 8020 if you’re putting this in a canopy. I honestly don’t think you need the 8020. No need for height adjustment since you can adjust intensity and if you angle the two outer fixtures inward, you will maximize the coverage, reduce shadowing, reduce light bleeding onto the side panels and increase intesting in the center because of the additional overlap that the eagled end lights will create in the center of the tank.

These are 3 Mitras LX7’s that I installed using these mounts on my buddy Jim’s frag system. The 2 putter fixtures are angled inward as mentioned above.

What height would you recommend above the water? The top of the canopy is 22" above the water.

I already have two tracks with 8" bolts that are holding my a360s, so that would be pretty easy.


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300g custom acrylic from James 72x36x27, 4 Mitras Lx7 &6 a360, 2 Stream 3s, C2C beananimal. 100g sump, Jebao DCP- 8000 (Vectra M1 died) -> 114w aquauv -> SRO 5000ext , varios8 return

Current Tank Info: Me v Dinos - I'm winning for now...
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Unread 02/19/2018, 10:09 AM   #8
slief
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zalick View Post
What height would you recommend above the water? The top of the canopy is 22" above the water.

I already have two tracks with 8" bolts that are holding my a360s, so that would be pretty easy.
I’d likely go 8-12” minimum off the water but the height isn’t critical because you have control over the intensity. The lights in the above picture are about 14” above the tank. You just want to insure you have enough height for best spread. The mounts I mentioned would drop you about 4” from the top plus the thickness of the fixture so that’s about 6”. If anything, one single extrusion mounted to the top of the canopy running down the length of the tank (if you were using the Articulating mounts) would be what I would do. Then you could slide the lights left or right, rotate them and angle them. If the extrusion was mounted to the canopy using carriage bolts, you could raise or lower it. That’s how I did the light rack above. It’s mounted to a false ceiling above the tank and hangs down about 3”. Even if it was higher off the water, you can compensate by increasing intensity. If you were to paint the inside of the canopy white or line it with white FRP or something, that would help maximize the reflectivity inside the canopy.


__________________
Director Customer Support Royal Exclusiv USA
For All Royal Exclusiv & Bubble King questions please refer to our Sponsor forum: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/fo...play.php?f=745

Current Tank Info: 480G display mixed reef, 90G sump, 90G refugium, 60G display refugium. Check out my build thread: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1783476

Last edited by slief; 02/19/2018 at 10:14 AM.
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