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05/07/2012, 12:41 PM | #51 |
Reef Chemist
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Arlington, Massachusetts
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Well, I never rinse my mysis, which I feed a cube of every day (Ocean Nutrition brand).
Yes, I can beleive the burst to cyano could come from DOC, or phosphate, probably not so often nitrate.
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Randy Holmes-Farley Current Tank Info: 120 mixed reef |
05/07/2012, 01:59 PM | #52 |
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Paul B, really sorry about your sponge. I know, it is quite beautiful...
Hmm, is Chemi Clean a some sort of postassium permanganate solution? If yes, sometimes I add stuff like potassium permanganate directly into my skimmer... on top of the foam... in this case less amount (just a 2-3 drops) is enough. Seems to be less stressful and more effective - my skimmer starts to produce a big amount of really dark foam. What do you think about this way of using potassium permanganate? I think that sort of a "juice" maybe a bit too "fatty", especially for smaller tanks, thus skimmers may go flat, and as a result - low ORP, less oxygen and a massive cyano growth. What do you think, Randy? Thank you. Last edited by Mr.Aiptasia; 05/07/2012 at 02:06 PM. |
05/08/2012, 06:38 AM | #53 | |
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The "juices" from frozen food IMO adds nothing good to a tank that I would need. The fish can't eat it and I doubt it would benefit corals but it is probably good for sponges and filter feeders. I really don't know. The liquid is mostly from the mysis being torn apart in the freezing, or thawing process because most of those tiny animals are not completely whole when you thaw them. That is the resulting liquid that comes from the gut and organs of the animal. If you freeze whole shrimp (which are larger) and thaw them, they stay whole and no juice is exuded. I have never used "Ocean Nutrition Brand" but all mysis are just small shrimp like creatures. I do have some Hikari Bio Pure mysis and they also contain vitamin B 12, pyridoxine hydrocloride, L-ascorbyl-2polyphosphate, carotine riboflavin, thiamine mononitrate, biotib chloride, folic acid, calcium pantothenate, insitol and niacin. I know this is all mostly vitamins but I think it is just included to make it sound healthy to the buyer as these are water soluble vitamins and would just wash off as soon as it hits the water. I have another package of Mysis that is just Mysis. Whatever is included in the package I wash off. I also feel clams are a much better food than mysis which is a large portion of shell and not as much internal organs where the bulk of the nutrition is. If you thaw some mysis you will see that much of the contents is just hollow shells where the internal "meat" has come loose and disappeared in the liquid of the product. This is all just my opinion of course with absolutely no scientific backing
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I used to get shocked when I put my hand in my tank. Then the electric eel went dead. Current Tank Info: 100 gal reef set up in 1971 |
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05/08/2012, 08:13 AM | #54 |
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I think there are a few things that would contribute to a cyano bloom like that. When it comes to food there is no doubt that the "juice" will add some amount of N and P to a system. I would ask will this really effect anything. If you test the "juice" the levels will be off the charts as the volume is extremely small so the concentration is very high. However when we add this to our tank the concentration is undectable (in my 120 anyway). I have tested before during and after feeding and I don't see any changes. Obviously with smaller tanks this will have somewhat of an effect but I would hope someone with a much smaller tank has less fish and is feeding less so to some extent the concentrations should be similar.
Anyway I think more important is what the specific tank is accustom to. I for one dont generally rinse my food and don't have N or P. I would imagine that because I have always fed like this that the tank and biology going on in the tank is used to the small amount of extra nutriets and gets rid of it. However for someone who historically does wash their food and remove the "juice" and then all of the sudden stops I could imagine a bloom would come. Missing a day or two might do nothing but if over a week everyday more nutrients were added it could accumulate enough to cause a bloom as the tank isn't ready for the new load. Just thought I would add my ideas I love discussions like this
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120 gal in wall reef with 40 gal breeder sump, 2 ecoray 60D lights, 80 lbs of rock, crushed aragonite bed, lps dominated. Current Tank Info: 120 in wall reef tank, minimal rock, zoa dominated |
05/08/2012, 10:04 AM | #55 | ||||
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I am not one to listen to as to what you should not add to a tank as I add all sorts of things, but I feel the things I add are either benign or helpful. The liquid that comes from pre packaged frozen fish food is a waste product just as when you open a package of chicken and there is some liquid in the package. Would you drink that, or add it to your tank? Why not? Quote:
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I used to get shocked when I put my hand in my tank. Then the electric eel went dead. Current Tank Info: 100 gal reef set up in 1971 Last edited by Paul B; 05/08/2012 at 10:15 AM. |
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05/08/2012, 12:26 PM | #56 | |
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120 gal in wall reef with 40 gal breeder sump, 2 ecoray 60D lights, 80 lbs of rock, crushed aragonite bed, lps dominated. Current Tank Info: 120 in wall reef tank, minimal rock, zoa dominated |
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05/08/2012, 12:51 PM | #57 | |
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I don't know, I took a guess
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I used to get shocked when I put my hand in my tank. Then the electric eel went dead. Current Tank Info: 100 gal reef set up in 1971 |
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05/08/2012, 01:47 PM | #58 |
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True eventually it would add up but with water changes and what not it can't really get too high... I think lol. As long as you have the biology going on to export the nasty stuff that is.
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120 gal in wall reef with 40 gal breeder sump, 2 ecoray 60D lights, 80 lbs of rock, crushed aragonite bed, lps dominated. Current Tank Info: 120 in wall reef tank, minimal rock, zoa dominated |
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