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Unread 03/16/2013, 10:55 PM   #1
Roman120G
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QT protocol for Yasha Goby and Candy Stripe Pistol Shrimp

Hello

would like to know the step by step procedure of QT and placing goby and shrimp into DT.

Shrimp does not need to be QT ( so i have been reading) or I can keep it in the separate QT for observation? if yes, then How long?

Goby will get some preventative medication in QT such as: Prazipro and tank transfer ( as it was suggested to me, instead of Cupramine). Or I can do Cupramine for 2 weeks?

my main question is who I put in DT first? and when do I put in second one?

based on this info, depending on the QT of the shrimp and placement order into DT i will do the purchasing.

thank you


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additional 57g tank for saltwater storage, will automate daily 2g water changes. Float switch and valve for ATO, second switch for Overflow. SG 1.024, temp 79, ph 8.3. Carbon and GFO reactor in sump.

Current Tank Info: 120g, 60x18x26, fish/mix coral. RKE controller, BRS RO/DI, 2 Ecotech Radion Pro, 2 Vortech MP40wES, Coralife super skimmer 220g, live Fiji sand 120lb/Fiji Totoka live rock 60lb. DSB fuge/live rock/cheato/caulerpa. Custom 55g sump-skimmer/fuge/return
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Unread 03/25/2013, 11:33 PM   #2
Arnel0387
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bump!


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Unread 03/26/2013, 06:17 AM   #3
alexander_ktn
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To be honest I would not QT such a delicate goby and only freshwater/methylene blue dip it.
Just my opinion, others might disagree.


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Unread 03/26/2013, 06:37 AM   #4
SweetTang
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I recently purchased a beautiful little Yasha (I didn't QT...I know, playing with fire) and he found my Candy Striped Pistol Shrimp in my nano that I haven't seen in 3 months. Also had a similar situation where I finally was able to catch a high fin goby out of my overflow after two months, he found a tiny pistol that I added to my 120g within 24 hours too....amazing how quickly they can find them!

Two recommendations in regards to adding the pistol to your tank while waiting on the Yasha to go through QT:

1. Put the pistol in your tank by an isolated rock that you hope he chooses as his permanent residence. I know that this is no garuntee, but it has worked remarkably well for my...especially if it is a small pistol.

or,

2. I have also used a small plastic tuppaware or clear plastic bowl with a lid to house the pistol in. Poke plenty of holes in it so that water can circulate through it. Once you add the Goby, he will usually find the pistol and start to hang out near the bowl. Once this happens, carefully release the pistol from the bowl.

Just two things that have worked in my limited experience. Good luck and Congratulations on the Yasha...beautiful fish and great addition to your tank, especially once paired with a pistol!


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Unread 03/26/2013, 07:13 AM   #5
MondoBongo
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my general rule is that for safety i QT everything, and i mean everything. fish, inverts, and coral.

better safe than sorry.

i also do NOT treat prophylactically. why induce the extra stress of a treatment that may not be needed.

i start out with my inverts, corals, and fish in the same QT tank. if a fish shows signs of disease, then i have a few extra pieces of equipment laying around that i can use to stand up a hospital tank very quickly, and allow the main QT with the inverts to go fallow for a long time, while i treat the fish in the hospital tank.

this way i can minimize the amount of space needed for QT, but still be able to separate and treat as required if a fish shows any signs of disease.


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Unread 03/26/2013, 08:43 AM   #6
nynick
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Unless you have other shrimp that you want to protect I see no reason why you should quarantine the pistol. Fish and shrimp are probably no more susceptible to the same diseases than fish and humans are.


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Unread 03/26/2013, 09:12 AM   #7
whiteshark
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alexander_ktn View Post
To be honest I would not QT such a delicate goby and only freshwater/methylene blue dip it.
Just my opinion, others might disagree.
Is a Yasha really a delicate fish? If so, why would you freshwater dip it? Why do anything to it unless it was showing signs of disease? I'm honestly curious as I just ordered one too which should be arriving tomorrow. I was just planning on QTing it as I would any other fish. No treatment unless signs of disease surface.


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Unread 03/26/2013, 09:29 AM   #8
alexander_ktn
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I would not QT it for fear that it would not find enough to eat and get emaciated. If the QT is up and running and has a nice pod population or if the fish is eating frozen/prepared foods from the start it's no problem. If it is a combined qt/hospital tank with minimal decoration I wouldn't do it.

The dip will help dislodge or to an extend oxidize external parasites as well as help the fish by converting methemoglobin to hemoglobin. So it's less a treatment than a treat.

As I said, others might do it differently.


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Unread 03/26/2013, 09:34 AM   #9
wonderz
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Yasha in my experience isn't really a picky eater. They are usually pretty shy tho. If you don't have anything else in QT, it should eat fine.


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Unread 03/26/2013, 09:36 AM   #10
whiteshark
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Hmm I was under the impression that these gobies readily took frozen foods. The way you are describing it makes it sound a bit more like a mandarin.

My QT is up and running, cycled, established, and has a decent pod population but now you have me wondering a bit...


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Unread 03/26/2013, 10:50 AM   #11
Roman120G
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thank you guys for sharing

good to hear different versions.

I have read that Prazipro is a good preventative medication and does not stress the fish a lot.

even some stress, IMO is good, that will provoke the disease in "sleeping mode" to come out and there you can work your magic with serious medications.
by Some stress, i mean short period of time, not whole QT procedure.

otherwise, the sleeping disease can wake up in DT, if the fish get any stress from an aggressive/semi-aggressive fish that you eventually introduce.

i did read about it on various forums, and some reefers did that.


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additional 57g tank for saltwater storage, will automate daily 2g water changes. Float switch and valve for ATO, second switch for Overflow. SG 1.024, temp 79, ph 8.3. Carbon and GFO reactor in sump.

Current Tank Info: 120g, 60x18x26, fish/mix coral. RKE controller, BRS RO/DI, 2 Ecotech Radion Pro, 2 Vortech MP40wES, Coralife super skimmer 220g, live Fiji sand 120lb/Fiji Totoka live rock 60lb. DSB fuge/live rock/cheato/caulerpa. Custom 55g sump-skimmer/fuge/return
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Unread 03/26/2013, 11:36 AM   #12
Jstdv8
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I also QT everything. Have 1 tank set up for copper treatment which I start on every fish as soon as they become accustom to the tank.
The other QT has LED light over a 10g for corals, inverts and LR (anything but fish)

You hear a lot about "why would you treat a fish that doesn't show signs of sickness"
Well a fish can have ich and never show it until it is stressed. You can't see it if its just in the gills (weak spot)
Also the cupramine is very mild and would take twice the recommended amount to become lethal.
If you are going to treat then do it for at least 4 weeks.
You'll kill most within 2 weeks, but no guarantees you'll get it all.


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Unread 03/26/2013, 12:05 PM   #13
Roman120G
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jstdv8 View Post
i also qt everything. Have 1 tank set up for copper treatment which i start on every fish as soon as they become accustom to the tank.
The other qt has led light over a 10g for corals, inverts and lr (anything but fish)

you hear a lot about "why would you treat a fish that doesn't show signs of sickness"
well a fish can have ich and never show it until it is stressed. You can't see it if its just in the gills (weak spot)
also the cupramine is very mild and would take twice the recommended amount to become lethal.
If you are going to treat then do it for at least 4 weeks.
You'll kill most within 2 weeks, but no guarantees you'll get it all.
+1


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additional 57g tank for saltwater storage, will automate daily 2g water changes. Float switch and valve for ATO, second switch for Overflow. SG 1.024, temp 79, ph 8.3. Carbon and GFO reactor in sump.

Current Tank Info: 120g, 60x18x26, fish/mix coral. RKE controller, BRS RO/DI, 2 Ecotech Radion Pro, 2 Vortech MP40wES, Coralife super skimmer 220g, live Fiji sand 120lb/Fiji Totoka live rock 60lb. DSB fuge/live rock/cheato/caulerpa. Custom 55g sump-skimmer/fuge/return
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