Official: Masterflex Calcium Reactor Setup Thread

[slief]

Those AP check valves are also rebuildable meaning you can take them apart and clean the inside of the valve/ball/spring so if you have one that is giving you issues, it might be worth opening it up.

[IUfan]

Yeah that’s the exact one’s I have! How do you take them apart, looks pretty sealed to me


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[LQT]

US plastics has the heavy duty check valve with a lower 1 psi cracking pressure.

https://www.usplastic.com/catalog/it...x?itemid=33334

[slief]

Originally Posted by IUfan

Yeah that’s the exact one’s I have! How do you take them apart, looks pretty sealed to me


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From the link above.
Maintenance: Even though these checkvalves are highly resistant to corrosion, they still need regular cleaning due to mineral deposits that accumulate and cause the checkball to stick partially open.

If the unit sticks open, water (or even worse, saltwater) will backflow in to the regulator causing damage.

How to: Unscrew the 2 halves (carefully with 2 pairs of pliers being careful not to crush). As you disassemble the unit, take note of where the pieces go. Soak all of the pieces in CLR to dissolve the mineral deposits. Ensure all pieces are clean then rinse and reassemble.

Test: To perform a leak test, simply reverse the checkvalve, set the regulator on 12 lbs, run it in a cup of water (while reversed) and watch for bubbles.

[slief]

Originally Posted by LQT

US plastics has the heavy duty check valve with a lower 1 psi cracking pressure.

https://www.usplastic.com/catalog/it...x?itemid=33334

Those look very similar but they have a 1 PSI crack pressure which is pretty low. They may be prone to sticking open with such a low pressure rating so you would need to check them regularly to make sure they aren’t sticking. Putting some tubing in the input output side and blowing through it would be how you would test it both directions.

[LQT]

I figured it would be okay since it looks like the GEO’s Reef “upgraded” check valve seems to be the same make with a 1 psi cracking pressure as well.

https://www.geosreef.com/product/check-valve-1-psi/

[slief]

Originally Posted by LQT

I figured it would be okay since it looks like the GEO’s Reef “upgraded” check valve seems to be the same make with a 1 psi cracking pressure as well.

https://www.geosreef.com/product/check-valve-1-psi/

Interesting. Didn’t realize theirs was also a 1 PSI one. I got one of those with a reactor that I recently installed for a customer. Good to know they too are 1 PSI. I think those are also rebuildable like the AP one.

[Vinny Kreyling]

This is what came with my MTC unit:

http://www.smartproducts.com/check_v...00_modular.php

[IUfan]

Wow, feel like I’m collecting check valves right now.

The ones I got from aquarium plants, they are way to stiff, the crack pressure feels way more than 3 psi, I blew down the tube of both of them as hard as I could and couldn’t get them to release, I assume I’m blowing more than 3 psi?

I ordered this check valve from BRS (before I read the latest posts) https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/mur-l...h-connect.html

I like the look of that GEO reef check valve, looks like it screws straight into the bubble counter.

Any idea of estimated lifespan for these check valves?
1) Grainger Check Valve
2) BRS Check Valve
3) GEO Check Valve


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[hkgar]

Originally Posted by IUfan

Wow, feel like I’m collecting check valves right now.

The ones I got from aquarium plants, they are way to stiff, the crack pressure feels way more than 3 psi, I blew down the tube of both of them as hard as I could and couldn’t get them to release, I assume I’m blowing more than 3 psi?

I ordered this check valve from BRS (before I read the latest posts) https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/mur-l...h-connect.html

I like the look of that GEO reef check valve, looks like it screws straight into the bubble counter.

Any idea of estimated lifespan for these check valves?
1) Grainger Check Valve
2) BRS Check Valve
3) GEO Check Valve


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I have been using the one that came with the Aquarium Plants regulator for years with no problems, but I have never run less than 5 PSI, currently at 9.

[biglurr54]

Has anyone tried a swagelok brass or stainless 1psi check valve? I'm lost on a good check valve for my build. The most expensive part of the regulator build was the needle valve so I want to protect that!

I also ordered the l/s 17 tubing so I can get my master flex up and running the reactor from day 1.

I need a matching motor and head to run my kalk reactor. Back on the search.

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[LQT]

While the Swagelok stainless check valves are nice, they certainly aren’t necessary. Go with this one from USPlastic...

https://www.usplastic.com/catalog/it...x?itemid=33334

[biglurr54]

I need some help setting up my Masterflex driven CaRX. I have a 220g total volume reef. I am currently dosing 20ml of BRS 2 part 6 times a day. I am switching over to a Geo 612 calcium reactor. It will be controlled by apex at a ph of 6.8. I will be using a 7520-00 motor and a 7518-00 head to pull through the reactor. I have L/S 14 and L/S 17 tubing on hand.

I know that no one can give me a definitive answer as to what rate I should set the motor to but I am looking for a good starting range so I can get the reactor dialed in.

How much effluent should I aim to dose in 24 hours. Should I use the L/S 14 or 17 tubing? The 14 will make the motor run at much higher rpms. The 17 tubing will be much slower rpms.

Lastly, should I run the effluent through a second reactor chamber? The geo 612 is a single chamber and I have a few spare reactors kicking around that I could throw media in if it would be beneficial.

[Vinny Kreyling]

Start around 40 ml/min & work from there.
Stabilize your Alkalinity first, when that is dialed in dose calcium to get it where you want it & the reactor will hold it there.
A second chamber will help with any CO2 that makes it past the main chamber.

[hkgar]

Originally Posted by biglurr54

I need some help setting up my Masterflex driven CaRX. I have a 220g total volume reef. I am currently dosing 20ml of BRS 2 part 6 times a day. I am switching over to a Geo 612 calcium reactor. It will be controlled by apex at a ph of 6.8. I will be using a 7520-00 motor and a 7518-00 head to pull through the reactor. I have L/S 14 and L/S 17 tubing on hand.

I know that no one can give me a definitive answer as to what rate I should set the motor to but I am looking for a good starting range so I can get the reactor dialed in.

How much effluent should I aim to dose in 24 hours. Should I use the L/S 14 or 17 tubing? The 14 will make the motor run at much higher rpms. The 17 tubing will be much slower rpms.

Lastly, should I run the effluent through a second reactor chamber? The geo 612 is a single chamber and I have a few spare reactors kicking around that I could throw media in if it would be beneficial.

This should help you out.

Do ot set Apex to turn regulator on/off around your target of 6.8. Adjust the reactor via PSI or bubble count or both to maintain 6.8.

[biglurr54]

That link is tough to use. I have no idea what my effluent will be. That is a product of flow through the reactor and co2 being dosed. Tough thing to predict.

I plan to have the regulator keep the reactor steady and have the Apex as a back up.

I have been told to do 40ml/ min and 90ml/ min. I guess I will start at 40 and work my way up. I'm worried about swings in params but I guess it won't be that drastic.

I have plenty of 2 part to get the system stable once the reactor is stable.

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[Vinny Kreyling]

Get yourself one of these:
https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/gradu...uring-cup.html

100 ml is enough

[tkeracer619]

Originally Posted by biglurr54

I need some help setting up my Masterflex driven CaRX.

Lets forget the tarrget PH for right now. It doesn't really matter what it ends up being.

Use the LS17. Set the reactor to 40ml/min. That's probably a good start for your demand.

Set your regulator to 6 or 7 psi.

Slowly open the needle valve or bpm if using the AP reg. Start with a very slow bubble count.

Continue to test the display and increase bubble count. Slow down your dosers as needed.

Once you get down to a ph of 6.5 -6.4 you can start increasing your effluent flow and gas pressure in equal percentages. That should keep you around the same ph while at the same time increasing output.

This should take you a week or so to bring it online. Slow and steady is key. No need to rush it.

[FishProf]

Maybe it's a silly question, but … What is a two-stop tubing?

I got a dual channel pump head (number 7536-02) [for water change], and it takes "2-stop tubing". Can I just use the regular tubing??

Thanks!

[slief]

Originally Posted by FishProf

Maybe it's a silly question, but … What is a two-stop tubing?

I got a dual channel pump head (number 7536-02) [for water change], and it takes "2-stop tubing". Can I just use the regular tubing??

Thanks!

Two-Stop Tubing has a special clip on each end of the the tubing that tensions the tubing properly while holding it in the head. If you used standard silicone tubing (without the stops) in that head, it would probably move/slip in the head and crawl in the direction the rollers are moving. I think you need to stick with the two stop tubing sets in that model head.

[FishProf]

hmm … so, what do you recommend - sticking with this multi channel and putting $$ in buying these special tubing [the head was $37 on eBay].
I really like the 2-channel idea for continuous water change.

[tkeracer619]

Originally Posted by FishProf

hmm … so, what do you recommend - sticking with this multi channel and putting $$ in buying these special tubing [the head was $37 on eBay].
I really like the 2-channel idea for continuous water change.

It's a good head but you should order ls24 two stop tubing sets in pharmed bpt. You'll probably have to contact cole-parmer for that. You won't find it on the discount shelf.

[FishProf]

You are correct - these things are $75 per 4 pieces!
This may have been a mistake buying it …

What is the difference between size 35 and size 18 tubing? - both are listed with the same max flow rate (2300ml/min) and same ID (0.311" or 7.9mm)

Originally Posted by tkeracer619

It's a good head but you should order ls24 two stop tubing sets in pharmed bpt. You'll probably have to contact cole-parmer for that. You won't find it on the discount shelf.

[tkeracer619]

Originally Posted by FishProf

You are correct - these things are $75 per 4 pieces!
This may have been a mistake buying it …

What is the difference between size 35 and size 18 tubing? - both are listed with the same max flow rate (2300ml/min) and same ID (0.311" or 7.9mm)

The wall thickness. That head can only use 15, 24, or 35. Other tubes are not compatible.

You could possibly get tubing stops and install them on bulk tube yourself. Still, those tubing sets use a proprietary tubing thickness, so unless you can find it on the secondary market it's still pricey.

How much water are you trying to change?

[FishProf]

I have a 300 gallon tank. The continuous part is fine, I'm sure [1-2% a day?]. But - I also want to have the option for a quick water change, so the more the better. The size 35 gives me a max rate of 3.8mL/rev = 2300mL/600RPM = 0.61gallon/minute = 36gallon/hour. So, I could change 30% of my water volume in 3 hours. That would mean running the pump at near its max speed of 600 RPM [with the hope I won't be ruining the tubing with such a top speed].

Originally Posted by tkeracer619

The wall thickness. That head can only use 15, 24, or 35. Other tubes are not compatible.

You could possibly get tubing stops and install them on bulk tube yourself. Still, those tubing sets use a proprietary tubing thickness, so unless you can find it on the secondary market it's still pricey.

How much water are you trying to change?