Reef Central Online Community

Go Back   Reef Central Online Community > General Interest Forums > New to the Hobby
Blogs FAQ Calendar

Notices

User Tag List

Reply
Thread Tools
Unread 12/12/2011, 05:19 PM   #101
jhoff
Registered Member
 
jhoff's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Edison New Jersey
Posts: 1,082
Trying this stuff it should be here in a few days.
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/produc...6&pcatid=23496


jhoff is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 12/16/2011, 03:56 PM   #102
Sammibaz
Registered Member
 
Sammibaz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 282
AMAZING RESULTS!!! A++++++ idea!!! I love an all natural approach that prevents my tank from being dosed with chemicals (blahgh!). I read this entire thread and figured I had nothing to lose. Lights went out that next morning. I turned the refugium lights out too. No lights on the tank other than the natural sun light that peeks thru the shades during the day. On the second day, the cyano was gone, but I was taking no chances. THREE DAYS was the recommend and it WORKED!!! YEAH!! My fish look amazing, the corals look amazing and there is NO more cyano anywhere! My tank is sparkling. I <3 this simple and effective solution!!! THANK YOU!!! THANK YOU!!! THANK YOU!!!!!!!


Sammibaz is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 12/20/2011, 08:48 PM   #103
RooKi3
Registered Member
 
RooKi3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: San Diego
Posts: 134
For the next few days I will be trying out the blackout method as well, will be updating my results. Thanks all.


RooKi3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01/03/2012, 05:21 PM   #104
bheron
Registered Member
 
bheron's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Valley Forge, PA
Posts: 2,655
Sk8r - great thread and contribution to the forum! I've been battling this stuff for a long time now. Its been the single greatest challenge for me over 2 years now. I've done everything along the way and, still, seem to be battling it. I really contemplate giving up sometimes after almost 10 years in the hobby. This thread really gave me new life to continue on.

First, am I correct in that an identifier of cyano is small air bubbles? Thats the first sign in my tank.

I just got done a 3 day lights out that always helps, but only short term. I've been working on addressing a root cause of excessive nutrients and am baffled b/c I feel like I have that covered. Understanding that its just a way of natural tank life really helps. My problem is that it always seems to become so unmanageable, covering every single inch of the tank and choking out life. I feel like the way it covers the sandbed just traps nutrients in there? Its horrible. But maybe I do this systematically, on a monthly basis, I can beat it!

Second, can you expand more on the carbon source? I get lights and nutrients. Where does the carbon come from?

Lastly, I once read that too many water changes, or too new of a tank can make it worse. I once battled this with excessive WCs to help nutrient export and I swore it got worse! So I saw your comment about new tanks and wanted to ask more.


I'm sure I have more questions but once I figure this out I hope to contribute more on what I consider my greatest challenge and what has help me back from my goals in this hobby.

What a great perspective you've given us. thank you!!


__________________
Bryan

Current Tank Info: 220 since Nov 2005
bheron is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01/10/2012, 09:59 AM   #105
Hextall
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Newmarket, NH
Posts: 327
Just wanted to post an update. Twice I did 3-days lights out... once starting 11/24, and once starting 12/14.

After the first event, some cyano came back relatively quickly. In fact, it started to look like it was going to be just as thick in some spots (I posted some pictures in this thread, and some people said it wasn't that bad, but it looked bad to me).

So I did a second lights out event, and since that one, almost a month ago, cyano has not returned.

I don't have a skimmer in my 29g Biocube, but maybe because I didn't have as much as other people might, I could get away with not having it. My filter floss did turn lightly maroon with the die off.

It works.


Hextall is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01/11/2012, 08:56 AM   #106
bheron
Registered Member
 
bheron's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Valley Forge, PA
Posts: 2,655
Hextall, thats great news. I am starting my 2nd round right now. The first round did a good job. But I've also been using GFO. Figured that, with the lights off, and skimming should help alot.


__________________
Bryan

Current Tank Info: 220 since Nov 2005
bheron is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01/11/2012, 09:35 AM   #107
sslak
Registered Member
 
sslak's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,705
Bearing this in mind, I'm gonna leave my cyano and just tell all my friends I'm growing dinosaurs in my tank!

Sk8r - Kidding aside - Have you ever seen anything that looks every much like cyano, but is very dark red, almost brownish/black. I have this, and texture, appearance, and where it grows acts just like cyano....but mine is WORSE when the lights are out! It burns away as the light cycle progresses, especially once my halides kick in, and it's almost gone by the time the lights turn off. Then it comes back by the next morning.

It's strange stuff.


__________________
Steve

Current Tank Info: 58 Oceanic/20g Sump/250w XM 20k/2x39w T5 True Actinic 03/2010 Reef Octopus NW Cone Skimmer
sslak is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01/11/2012, 03:15 PM   #108
JerseyClowns
Moved On
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Washington, New Jersey
Posts: 59
When I've had outbreaks in the past what's worked for me is the following: lights out for 3 days (and then reduced lighting for the next several weeks), minimum to no feeding the tanks for a couple of days while the lights are out and GFO until my phosphates read under .02.

Now I shut my lights one weekend every month and I no longer have any outbreaks.


JerseyClowns is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01/11/2012, 03:17 PM   #109
JerseyClowns
Moved On
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Washington, New Jersey
Posts: 59
When I've had outbreaks in the past what's worked for me is the following: lights out for 3 days (and then reduced lighting for the next several weeks), minimum to no feeding the tanks for a couple of days while the lights are out and GFO until my phosphates read under .02.

Now I shut my lights one weekend every month and I no longer have any outbreaks.


JerseyClowns is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01/19/2012, 09:43 PM   #110
cnraab
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 11
Sk8r, thank you so much for sharing this natural eradication method. I will employ this method as part of my maintenance schedule going forward.


cnraab is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01/22/2012, 07:02 AM   #111
larryfl1
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 797
hi,

i have done 3 days lights out multiple times...

i just finished another 3 days and i have a little cyano here and there... not like before but spots...

do i need more time??

also with nitrates at 2 and phosphates at .15 should it grow back quickly? this was my 3rd time trying to get rid of it...


larryfl1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01/22/2012, 08:16 AM   #112
Gandolfe
Registered Member
 
Gandolfe's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: New Port Richey,Florida
Posts: 849
do you turn off your algae scrubber lighting as well when you do a lights out cure for cyano? won't that kill the turf alage also on you scrubber or just wound it?..LOL Because i have purplish black cyano, on rocks and sand. It can be vacuumed off


Gandolfe is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01/25/2012, 11:19 AM   #113
bheron
Registered Member
 
bheron's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Valley Forge, PA
Posts: 2,655
Gandolfe - I thought about the same thing. I left the light on in my sump and fuge to help keep PH balanced. but this time around I'm shutting them off for everything.


__________________
Bryan

Current Tank Info: 220 since Nov 2005
bheron is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01/26/2012, 10:42 PM   #114
do_0b
Registered Member
 
do_0b's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: T.O / Huntington Beach, CA
Posts: 47
i have my tank in the bedroom and the curtain is always down
is it ok still or do i need to cover it with a blanket?


do_0b is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01/27/2012, 11:19 PM   #115
do_0b
Registered Member
 
do_0b's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: T.O / Huntington Beach, CA
Posts: 47
also on the third day how long do you run the atinics?


do_0b is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01/31/2012, 03:16 PM   #116
do_0b
Registered Member
 
do_0b's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: T.O / Huntington Beach, CA
Posts: 47
bump?


do_0b is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01/31/2012, 03:32 PM   #117
bheron
Registered Member
 
bheron's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Valley Forge, PA
Posts: 2,655
I think the curtain down is fine. but the less light the better. as far as the timing of the lights back on, i always turn them on gradually over 1 day, but i dont have many sensitive corals. depends on what you have in your tank. point is to turn the lights back on gradually.


__________________
Bryan

Current Tank Info: 220 since Nov 2005
bheron is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 02/03/2012, 12:56 PM   #118
andysolo
Registered Member
 
andysolo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Montreal, QC
Posts: 23
I'm currently fighting something in my tank. It’s either cyano or dinos, but not 100% sure. It’s brown and slimy and covered all my rocks. It blows off easily with a turkey baster. Nitrates and phosphates always read 0. Started GFO yesterday and looking to do lights out. I'm going on vacation soon. Will the tank be ok for with no lights for 7 days? Or should I just run only actinics instead? Or no lights but allow the light coming from the windows?


andysolo is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 02/03/2012, 03:06 PM   #119
bamf25
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Central NJ
Posts: 1,419
My main issue is brown almost slimy strings that come off my rock, as well as some browning on my sand. I assume that this is cyano. With gfo the regrowth has slowed to a crawl compaired to what it was, but I may have to try the light thing. It goes into the catagory of too good to be true almost.


bamf25 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 02/05/2012, 12:56 PM   #120
bamf25
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Central NJ
Posts: 1,419
Why is the recomendation 3 days? Also, if you are going to start carbon dosing or something similar do you do it during the dark period or after you finish?

BTW: sticky this thread.



Last edited by bamf25; 02/05/2012 at 01:05 PM.
bamf25 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 02/05/2012, 10:39 PM   #121
do_0b
Registered Member
 
do_0b's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: T.O / Huntington Beach, CA
Posts: 47
if I'm not mistaken..brown stringy stuff is dino..
does it have air bubbles at the tip of it?
cyano is usually red in colour.


do_0b is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 02/06/2012, 07:59 AM   #122
andysolo
Registered Member
 
andysolo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Montreal, QC
Posts: 23
It doesn't usually have bubbles. I've also increased the flow and it didn't help at all. I have a pump blowing directly to a rock and it's still covered with this nasty stuff. Adding GFO didn't help much yet. And Hanna is constantly showing 0 phosphates. I was thinking that maybe the rocks are leaching phosphates, but this thing is growing on everything, glass, overflow, you name it. The only thing it's not growing on is the corals' live tissue. I will try to do some water changes, but I'm afraid that this will fuel it more.


andysolo is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 02/06/2012, 09:58 AM   #123
do_0b
Registered Member
 
do_0b's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: T.O / Huntington Beach, CA
Posts: 47
are you using ro/di water?


do_0b is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 02/06/2012, 10:10 AM   #124
andysolo
Registered Member
 
andysolo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Montreal, QC
Posts: 23
Yes, I do. And it reads 0 TDS. I'm also using LEDs. Worth mentioning that I was running bio-pellets and I probably overdid it. I'm wondering if I still have excess carbon in the system and I just need to wait out until it wears off.


andysolo is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 02/07/2012, 11:04 AM   #125
bheron
Registered Member
 
bheron's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Valley Forge, PA
Posts: 2,655
I would like to understand the whole carbon thing. sk8tr I think said carbon is one of the things Cyano needs. Yet I also hear people talking about dosing carbon. I've never dosed carbon in any way and haven run carbon in my reactor in months.

From what I remember, cyano needs:

1) light
2) phosphate
3) carbon (I think?)


__________________
Bryan

Current Tank Info: 220 since Nov 2005
bheron is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Black Sand, is it safe? osi Reef Discussion 11 03/09/2013 12:39 PM
scratch safe algae magnet idea polleke Lighting, Filtration & Other Equipment 0 10/08/2011 10:32 AM
reef safe sunscreen!!! reeftrinh Reef Discussion 11 06/29/2011 07:51 PM
How to remove corals safely transport need help! abezr Reef Discussion 5 02/03/2011 03:42 PM
Cyano: Red Slime Remover or erythromycin Icefire The Reef Chemistry Forum 6 06/29/2007 07:05 PM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 08:35 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Powered by Searchlight © 2024 Axivo Inc.
Use of this web site is subject to the terms and conditions described in the user agreement.
Reef CentralTM Reef Central, LLC. Copyright ©1999-2022
User Alert System provided by Advanced User Tagging v3.3.0 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2024 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.