Mars Aqua Chinese LED review (Ebay) - Page 8

Swope2bc · 07/16/2015, 12:51 AM

Ok guys, I'm going to post a quick write up on converting the Chinese black box to operate with the Neptune Apex.

Opening up your black box will look similar to this inside.

Disconnect the power and over temp sensors from the LED board to allow easier work.

Your dimmer board will resemble this, in the next photo you will see the back side of this board. Be sure to look closely at this so you know which white feeds your power and switch and which two are your 0-10v and ground. My two dimmers were reversed, meaning that the symbols on the wires cannot be trusted.

The apex uses pin 3/4 and 7/8 on a standard network cable. 3&7 being grounds. Depending on the connector you use be sure your pins line up.

The power from your LED power supplies is being jumped together creating a constant ON, but your APEX will turn it on and off.

(Conclusion in next post)

Swope2bc · 07/16/2015, 12:55 AM

(Continuation)

Here it all is installed. I need one more connector to get this to my APEX and I'll let you all know how it goes.

Reef Aquatics · 07/16/2015, 01:54 PM

I purchased one of these for my 30 gallon reef and
although I'm very happy with the color it produces.
It has been running for 3 weeks and doesn't seem as
bright as it was in the first week of running it.

In the beginning I had the actinics running at 75% and
the daylights at about 50%. Now to get that brightness
I have the actinics at 90% and the daylights about 75%
and the fixture is only 3 weeks old.

Anyone else have this issue with these?

Martini5788 · 07/16/2015, 07:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Reef Aquatics

I purchased one of these for my 30 gallon reef and

although I'm very happy with the color it produces.

It has been running for 3 weeks and doesn't seem as

bright as it was in the first week of running it.

In the beginning I had the actinics running at 75% and

the daylights at about 50%. Now to get that brightness

I have the actinics at 90% and the daylights about 75%

and the fixture is only 3 weeks old.

Anyone else have this issue with these?

I would contact the seller and have them send you a replacement for sure.

Rwiesner20 · 07/16/2015, 07:27 PM

So any updates on anyone using.

jchassie6312 · 07/21/2015, 09:35 AM

Iv been using the Mara aqua 165w since February and everything is doing great. I have soft and LPS. My question is does anyone know if they will support sps? And im also wanting to try a clam, does anyone have a clam under these lights or know if a clam would work? Thanks

evo187 · 07/21/2015, 10:09 AM

Any updates? Ordering one to put on my Biocube 29 finally. The stock PCs have somehow kept a BTA and maxima for over 2 years. Hoping these LEDs will be better. I'm ready to add lots of LPS.

jchassie6312 · 07/21/2015, 10:41 AM

It will be great for LPS

Shark.Bait · 07/22/2015, 12:42 AM

Anyone have an idea about what intensity I should put my 2 300w units at? They're over my 265g softy and lps tank. It is 30" deep so I'm thinking about just running them at 100%. Thanks

Ron Reefman · 07/22/2015, 07:12 AM

I've been away from RC for a long time (like 9 months) but you guys are dealing with leds like they are something new. EverGrow, ReefBreeders, ReefRadiance and OceanRevive have been selling fixtures like these for almost 3 years now. Yes, they are a bit more expensive in some cases, but there are reasons (see below). The MarsAqua fixtures look pretty good and are priced to sell. Nothing wrong with that. Just be aware they won't last 10 years like so many led users say they will. Well, the leds will, but the drivers, dimmers, screws and such probably won't. I've seen cheap led fixtures that look just like these rust away in 3 to 4 years years if they aren't cared for and maintained.

There is a huge "Chinese LEDs" thread here on RC and you can learn everything you could want to know. I've had 2 of the 32" 99 leds, with built in controller for over 30 months now. I've had zero issues and they still are running at 90% blue and 50% white for just 4 hours a day. They ramp up for 5 hours and back down again for 5 hours. It's a mixed reef and the corals grow just as well as they did under MH & t5... and they look better. PAR levels have fallen a bit over that time, but not much. And they have paid for themselves in less than 2 years in electricity (fixture usage, less run time on chillers as well as house A/C) and bulbs.

Fan noise was a problem on early inexpensive fixtures, but all the suppliers I listed had the factory upgrade fans and they run VERY quiet. I'm assuming MarsAqua is selling them for slightly less because they still use cheaper fans and maybe some other less expensive parts. I haven't seen one of the MarsAqua fixtures and I wonder, do they have 'real' heat sinks or just a sheet of aluminum? That was another upgrade the suppliers I listed have made. My newer fixtures (18 months old) run so cool the air blowing out the top of the fixture is only 5 degrees above room temperature.

Also, water evaporation/high humidity is an issue inside these fixtures over time. Some/many of the screws are not stainless steel or are poor quality stainless and do rust. I had cheap units by another supplier back 3 years ago and they began to fail after 6 months over my tank and another 6 months relegated to working over my refugium because I switched to fixtures with controllers built in for over the tanks. Hanging them as high off the water as you can will help reduce rust issues. Also taking them down and blasting air through them with a vacuum or shop vac or canned air every 3 to 6 months will help. It will remove built up dust from inside the case which also collects and holds moisture contributing to the rust issue.

Hope that helps? Oh, BTW, I'd never go back to MH. LEDs are the way to go, they just aren't perfect.

d-man · 07/26/2015, 09:22 PM

Who has a 300 wt one on their tank? Does it have 1 power cord or 2?
Also what depth is your tank and what intensity are u running it at?
Thanks

Swope2bc · 07/26/2015, 09:24 PM

Mine is 300w and 16" deep on a 40b but I'm still building and don't have the lights running yet...

Goby_Clarence · 07/30/2015, 10:26 AM

Update on my Ocean Revive 165watt LEDs: im glad to hear my research and luck on amazon held on this. Thanks for the long post on LED comparison. My Ocean Revive are only up to about 20% whites and blues, ive got stylos and acros extended, coloring up and growing nicely at about 15" even with the low output. Im still ramping up slowly, but excited that i can keep zoas, acans, and acros at the same depth...who knew?

Rowdeus · 08/03/2015, 08:18 PM

I have a 210 72x72x24x29 deep. I was thinking of getting either 2 of the 300watt or 6 of the 165 watt. They will be hung about 7 inches off the water. Which do you think would be better? I am starting to grow sps on the top, Lps mid, and lps and zoas low.

Swope2bc · 08/03/2015, 09:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rowdeus

I have a 210 72x72x24x29 deep. I was thinking of getting either 2 of the 300watt or 6 of the 165 watt. They will be hung about 7 inches off the water. Which do you think would be better? I am starting to grow sps on the top, Lps mid, and lps and zoas low.

From 2 @ 300w to 6 @ 165w is a pretty big jump. The 165s cover a 24"x24x24" and the 300s will cover about 36x24x24. No matter what you do you will be a little short for depth but the lights will spread well enough. 2 @ 300w or 3 @ 165w should cover well enough.

JVD BVI · 08/12/2015, 12:46 PM

Maybe I missed it but does anyone know if the optics are 60 or 90 ?

Also any suggestions on height for one 165w unit over a 17 gallon 14" high tank ?

Thanks

Swope2bc · 08/12/2015, 07:35 PM

Most of the units have 90° optics unless otherwise noted. As for height, I would say 10" but it may differ for you.

JVD BVI · 08/13/2015, 04:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Swope2bc

Most of the units have 90° optics unless otherwise noted. As for height, I would say 10" but it may differ for you.

Thank you

Swope2bc · 08/13/2015, 09:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JVD BVI

Thank you

🏼

Randyp79 · 08/13/2015, 10:03 AM

I used 3 on my 180g with t5 retro running 2 ATI aquablue special. I figured whatever spectrum was missing with led would be covered by t5. Reflectors are short because they were pulled from 48" light. There is little sps because tank is only couple months old. I might expand to 2 t5's on either side in the future. Here's a pic...

Swope2bc · 08/13/2015, 10:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Randyp79

I used 3 on my 180g with t5 retro running 2 ATI aquablue special. I figured whatever spectrum was missing with led would be covered by t5. Reflectors are short because they were pulled from 48" light, and there is little sps because rank is only couple months old. Here's a pic...

Looks good Randy! Let us know how it goes!

DavidinGA · 08/13/2015, 11:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ron Reefman

I've been away from RC for a long time (like 9 months) but you guys are dealing with leds like they are something new. EverGrow, ReefBreeders, ReefRadiance and OceanRevive have been selling fixtures like these for almost 3 years now. Yes, they are a bit more expensive in some cases, but there are reasons (see below). The MarsAqua fixtures look pretty good and are priced to sell. Nothing wrong with that. Just be aware they won't last 10 years like so many led users say they will. Well, the leds will, but the drivers, dimmers, screws and such probably won't. I've seen cheap led fixtures that look just like these rust away in 3 to 4 years years if they aren't cared for and maintained.

There is a huge "Chinese LEDs" thread here on RC and you can learn everything you could want to know. I've had 2 of the 32" 99 leds, with built in controller for over 30 months now. I've had zero issues and they still are running at 90% blue and 50% white for just 4 hours a day. They ramp up for 5 hours and back down again for 5 hours. It's a mixed reef and the corals grow just as well as they did under MH & t5... and they look better. PAR levels have fallen a bit over that time, but not much. And they have paid for themselves in less than 2 years in electricity (fixture usage, less run time on chillers as well as house A/C) and bulbs.

Fan noise was a problem on early inexpensive fixtures, but all the suppliers I listed had the factory upgrade fans and they run VERY quiet. I'm assuming MarsAqua is selling them for slightly less because they still use cheaper fans and maybe some other less expensive parts. I haven't seen one of the MarsAqua fixtures and I wonder, do they have 'real' heat sinks or just a sheet of aluminum? That was another upgrade the suppliers I listed have made. My newer fixtures (18 months old) run so cool the air blowing out the top of the fixture is only 5 degrees above room temperature.

Also, water evaporation/high humidity is an issue inside these fixtures over time. Some/many of the screws are not stainless steel or are poor quality stainless and do rust. I had cheap units by another supplier back 3 years ago and they began to fail after 6 months over my tank and another 6 months relegated to working over my refugium because I switched to fixtures with controllers built in for over the tanks. Hanging them as high off the water as you can will help reduce rust issues. Also taking them down and blasting air through them with a vacuum or shop vac or canned air every 3 to 6 months will help. It will remove built up dust from inside the case which also collects and holds moisture contributing to the rust issue.

Hope that helps? Oh, BTW, I'd never go back to MH. LEDs are the way to go, they just aren't perfect.

Some good info.

On the points of the pitfalls of the cheaper eBay boxes I would add:

#1 The last two eBay boxes I have purchased (AquaStar) have been extremely quiet with very good fans.

#2 You really shouldn't ever have to be concerned with rust if your hanging your lights at the proper height to utilize optics.

#3 Yes, the don't have "real" heatsinks. They simply have a piece of aluminum to disperse the heat.

#4 The potential problems in the future are kind of a mute point given how cheap parts are to replace anything that fails (drivers ~$20, led dies $0.15-0.35/ea, etc)

Mr.Badalandabad · 08/13/2015, 12:28 PM

Hi guys, I have a 125G mixed reef with no so standard dimensions (60 x 18 x 24). what would be the best way to go? 2x300w (maybe at slight angles) or 3x165w? Also I will most likely supplement with 2
t5's. Does anyone have any suggestions for single t5's fixtures that I could place on both sides of the LEDs?

Swope2bc · 08/13/2015, 02:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mr.Badalandabad

Hi guys, I have a 125G mixed reef with no so standard dimensions (60 x 18 x 24). what would be the best way to go? 2x300w (maybe at slight angles) or 3x165w? Also I will most likely supplement with 2

t5's. Does anyone have any suggestions for single t5's fixtures that I could place on both sides of the LEDs?

I would go with 2 300w units. No help on the t5s though, sorry

DavidinGA · 08/13/2015, 02:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mr.Badalandabad

Hi guys, I have a 125G mixed reef with no so standard dimensions (60 x 18 x 24). what would be the best way to go? 2x300w (maybe at slight angles) or 3x165w? Also I will most likely supplement with 2
t5's. Does anyone have any suggestions for single t5's fixtures that I could place on both sides of the LEDs?

LET T5 retro kits are the best (ati ballasts - HEP, and ati reflectors).

07/16/2015, 12:51 AM	#176
Swope2bc Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2015 Location: BC, Canada Posts: 1,066	Mars Aqua Chinese LED review (Ebay) Ok guys, I'm going to post a quick write up on converting the Chinese black box to operate with the Neptune Apex. Opening up your black box will look similar to this inside. Disconnect the power and over temp sensors from the LED board to allow easier work. Your dimmer board will resemble this, in the next photo you will see the back side of this board. Be sure to look closely at this so you know which white feeds your power and switch and which two are your 0-10v and ground. My two dimmers were reversed, meaning that the symbols on the wires cannot be trusted. The apex uses pin 3/4 and 7/8 on a standard network cable. 3&7 being grounds. Depending on the connector you use be sure your pins line up. The power from your LED power supplies is being jumped together creating a constant ON, but your APEX will turn it on and off. (Conclusion in next post) Last edited by Swope2bc; 07/16/2015 at 12:58 AM.

07/16/2015, 01:54 PM	#178
Reef Aquatics Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Florida...at some point will be Melbourne Australia.. Posts: 93	I purchased one of these for my 30 gallon reef and although I'm very happy with the color it produces. It has been running for 3 weeks and doesn't seem as bright as it was in the first week of running it. In the beginning I had the actinics running at 75% and the daylights at about 50%. Now to get that brightness I have the actinics at 90% and the daylights about 75% and the fixture is only 3 weeks old. Anyone else have this issue with these? Last edited by Reef Aquatics; 07/16/2015 at 02:05 PM.

07/22/2015, 07:12 AM	#185
Ron Reefman Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Cape Coral, FL Posts: 10,431	I've been away from RC for a long time (like 9 months) but you guys are dealing with leds like they are something new. EverGrow, ReefBreeders, ReefRadiance and OceanRevive have been selling fixtures like these for almost 3 years now. Yes, they are a bit more expensive in some cases, but there are reasons (see below). The MarsAqua fixtures look pretty good and are priced to sell. Nothing wrong with that. Just be aware they won't last 10 years like so many led users say they will. Well, the leds will, but the drivers, dimmers, screws and such probably won't. I've seen cheap led fixtures that look just like these rust away in 3 to 4 years years if they aren't cared for and maintained. There is a huge "Chinese LEDs" thread here on RC and you can learn everything you could want to know. I've had 2 of the 32" 99 leds, with built in controller for over 30 months now. I've had zero issues and they still are running at 90% blue and 50% white for just 4 hours a day. They ramp up for 5 hours and back down again for 5 hours. It's a mixed reef and the corals grow just as well as they did under MH & t5... and they look better. PAR levels have fallen a bit over that time, but not much. And they have paid for themselves in less than 2 years in electricity (fixture usage, less run time on chillers as well as house A/C) and bulbs. Fan noise was a problem on early inexpensive fixtures, but all the suppliers I listed had the factory upgrade fans and they run VERY quiet. I'm assuming MarsAqua is selling them for slightly less because they still use cheaper fans and maybe some other less expensive parts. I haven't seen one of the MarsAqua fixtures and I wonder, do they have 'real' heat sinks or just a sheet of aluminum? That was another upgrade the suppliers I listed have made. My newer fixtures (18 months old) run so cool the air blowing out the top of the fixture is only 5 degrees above room temperature. Also, water evaporation/high humidity is an issue inside these fixtures over time. Some/many of the screws are not stainless steel or are poor quality stainless and do rust. I had cheap units by another supplier back 3 years ago and they began to fail after 6 months over my tank and another 6 months relegated to working over my refugium because I switched to fixtures with controllers built in for over the tanks. Hanging them as high off the water as you can will help reduce rust issues. Also taking them down and blasting air through them with a vacuum or shop vac or canned air every 3 to 6 months will help. It will remove built up dust from inside the case which also collects and holds moisture contributing to the rust issue. Hope that helps? Oh, BTW, I'd never go back to MH. LEDs are the way to go, they just aren't perfect. __________________ The good thing about science is that it's true whether or not you believe in it. (Neil deGrasse Tyson) Visit my build thread http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2593017 Last edited by Ron Reefman; 07/22/2015 at 07:18 AM.

07/30/2015, 10:26 AM	#188
Goby_Clarence Registered Member Join Date: May 2015 Location: Doylestown, PA Posts: 37	Update on my Ocean Revive 165watt LEDs: im glad to hear my research and luck on amazon held on this. Thanks for the long post on LED comparison. My Ocean Revive are only up to about 20% whites and blues, ive got stylos and acros extended, coloring up and growing nicely at about 15" even with the low output. Im still ramping up slowly, but excited that i can keep zoas, acans, and acros at the same depth...who knew? __________________ A Firefish named Clarence A.K.A. Matt Current Tank Info: 75 display mixed reef, 4.5 gallon fuge with banded goby and pistol pair, 29 gallon sump with DSB, 20 gal additional fuge with firefish gobies, Reef Octopus 150 INT, pendant LEDs and 165 watt LED fixtures, 29 gal mixed reef, 5 gal fluval all-in-one

08/03/2015, 08:18 PM	#189
Rowdeus Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Florida Posts: 114	I have a 210 72x72x24x29 deep. I was thinking of getting either 2 of the 300watt or 6 of the 165 watt. They will be hung about 7 inches off the water. Which do you think would be better? I am starting to grow sps on the top, Lps mid, and lps and zoas low. Last edited by Rowdeus; 08/03/2015 at 08:29 PM.

07/16/2015, 12:55 AM	#177
Swope2bc Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2015 Location: BC, Canada Posts: 1,066	(Continuation) Here it all is installed. I need one more connector to get this to my APEX and I'll let you all know how it goes.

07/16/2015, 07:27 PM	#180
Rwiesner20 Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2015 Posts: 30	So any updates on anyone using.

07/21/2015, 09:35 AM	#181
jchassie6312 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2015 Posts: 97	Iv been using the Mara aqua 165w since February and everything is doing great. I have soft and LPS. My question is does anyone know if they will support sps? And im also wanting to try a clam, does anyone have a clam under these lights or know if a clam would work? Thanks

07/21/2015, 10:09 AM	#182
evo187 Registered Member Join Date: May 2013 Location: DFW Posts: 41	Any updates? Ordering one to put on my Biocube 29 finally. The stock PCs have somehow kept a BTA and maxima for over 2 years. Hoping these LEDs will be better. I'm ready to add lots of LPS.

07/21/2015, 10:41 AM	#183
jchassie6312 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2015 Posts: 97	It will be great for LPS

07/22/2015, 12:42 AM	#184
Shark.Bait Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2015 Location: Long Island, NY Posts: 244	Anyone have an idea about what intensity I should put my 2 300w units at? They're over my 265g softy and lps tank. It is 30" deep so I'm thinking about just running them at 100%. Thanks

07/26/2015, 09:22 PM	#186
d-man Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: San Diego, ca Posts: 2,732	Who has a 300 wt one on their tank? Does it have 1 power cord or 2? Also what depth is your tank and what intensity are u running it at? Thanks

07/26/2015, 09:24 PM	#187
Swope2bc Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2015 Location: BC, Canada Posts: 1,066	Mine is 300w and 16" deep on a 40b but I'm still building and don't have the lights running yet...

08/12/2015, 12:46 PM	#191
JVD BVI Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2015 Location: Land O Lakes Posts: 393	Maybe I missed it but does anyone know if the optics are 60 or 90 ? Also any suggestions on height for one 165w unit over a 17 gallon 14" high tank ? Thanks

08/12/2015, 07:35 PM	#192
Swope2bc Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2015 Location: BC, Canada Posts: 1,066	Most of the units have 90° optics unless otherwise noted. As for height, I would say 10" but it may differ for you.

08/13/2015, 10:03 AM	#195
Randyp79 Registered Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Owensboro, KY Posts: 157	I used 3 on my 180g with t5 retro running 2 ATI aquablue special. I figured whatever spectrum was missing with led would be covered by t5. Reflectors are short because they were pulled from 48" light. There is little sps because tank is only couple months old. I might expand to 2 t5's on either side in the future. Here's a pic...

08/13/2015, 12:28 PM	#198
Mr.Badalandabad Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2015 Posts: 7	Hi guys, I have a 125G mixed reef with no so standard dimensions (60 x 18 x 24). what would be the best way to go? 2x300w (maybe at slight angles) or 3x165w? Also I will most likely supplement with 2 t5's. Does anyone have any suggestions for single t5's fixtures that I could place on both sides of the LEDs?