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Old 01/10/2006, 02:59 PM   #176
aroundtuit
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Why not take a piece of wood or some other material, about the same thickness as your glass, and drill a few holes in it of varying sizes. Then you could test fit the bulkhead and know precisely how it's going to fit in your tank.

Of course you probably would not have the diamond bit yet, so you would have to find some way to drill the holes in the wood to the exact size. I'm not sure I'd use the bit on wood even if I had it.


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Old 01/10/2006, 05:33 PM   #177
dwall174
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Quote:
Originally posted by stgla
The flange is the "lip" or flat disc-shaped piece that sits flush with inside of your tank wall and the gasket is the flat rubber ring that sits against the tank wall from the outside. (Someone please correct me if I have that wrong)
The gasket needs to be in-between the flange & the glass.
The bulkhead can be installed either way, With the flange inside or outside of the tank! Just be sure the gasket is in-between the glass & the flange.


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Old 01/11/2006, 10:12 AM   #178
meagan_myers
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So there is several millimeters of wiggle room then, right?


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Old 01/11/2006, 10:40 AM   #179
stgla
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Meagan, yes, but don't believe us. Get your bulkhead before you drill. That was the advice I ignored and wish I hadn't.


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Old 01/11/2006, 07:13 PM   #180
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ok. thanks!


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Old 01/12/2006, 04:10 PM   #181
sea knight
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Quote:
Originally posted by dwall174
Not at Home Depot or Lowes!
Maybe from a ceramic supplier or a tile store? But then you will probably be paying like $40~$50 for a 1-3/4” bit like I originally did!
I've seen diamond coated drill bits in the harbor frieght catalog. They may have them in store


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Old 01/14/2006, 11:48 AM   #182
nikonosis
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i think i am going to try and drill my aga 180g. Should i be scared?


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Old 01/14/2006, 11:52 AM   #183
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Quote:
Originally posted by nikonosis
i think i am going to try and drill my aga 180g. Should i be scared?
Be confident and have patience. If you don't feel comfortable going into it you will be uneasy the whole time; something you don't want to be while drilling the glass.


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Old 01/14/2006, 12:38 PM   #184
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im confident i can do it but at the same time, i have the worst luck on earth! ill drill the hole fine and when i fill the tank with water it will explode or something, lol.


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Old 01/14/2006, 05:32 PM   #185
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I plan on drilling in a hole near the bottom corner of the tank to allow for easy draining of the tank. On the outside of the bulkhead, I plan on having a 1" nipple connecting a true union ball-valve to the bulkhead, with a hose barb connector and hose coming off the other side of the ball valve. Is this going to be too much weight being put on the bulkhead and cause too much strain on the glass?
Any opinions on how to prevent any strain?

Thanks,

Bob


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Old 01/14/2006, 07:10 PM   #186
Fl_seagull
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I have 4 each 1" bulkheads in the bottom of my 125 gal. all of them have ball valves and unions along with associated tubing.

The worst that I have had is the leaks resulting from movement of the bulkheads when opening and closing the valves. For the most part I simply tied the tubing to a nearby stand frame member. My stand has a 2x4 frame with 3/8 bead board covering.


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Old 01/14/2006, 07:17 PM   #187
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Quote:
Originally posted by BraenDead
IAny opinions on how to prevent any strain?
I prevent strain by eating my daily recommended amount of fiber.


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Old 01/14/2006, 07:20 PM   #188
BraenDead
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Nice Matt I suppose I should have said 'prevent strain on the tank and bulkhead.'

Bob


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Old 01/14/2006, 08:54 PM   #189
nikonosis
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well im gonna drill my tank if that lau guy ever emails me back so i can buy some of those hole saws...


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Old 01/15/2006, 05:24 PM   #190
dtaranath
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Quote:
Originally posted by BraenDead
I plan on drilling in a hole near the bottom corner of the tank to allow for easy draining of the tank.
Make sure your bulkhead has a good seal; if something ever happened to that bulkhead, you're going to come home to a nice little lake...


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Old 01/18/2006, 11:33 AM   #191
chrisT
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Maring Depot says you need a 2 3/8 " hole for the 1.5" bulkheads, but doing the math on the 60mm hole saw gives me a 2.36" hole which isnt quite 2.375. I just wanted to double check with the experienced glass drillers that the bulkhead will fit witout having to open the hole up anymore. Thanks for the great thread, local shops want 35 a hole with no guarantee on breakage. I would much rather do it myslef.


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Old 01/18/2006, 12:49 PM   #192
nikonosis
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Question

does anyone here recommend a schedule 40 or a schedule 80 bulkhead and why? Is it worth the money to get the 80's?


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Old 01/18/2006, 12:55 PM   #193
Superorb
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Most people will say to use a sched 80 since they are much more prone to failure. However, poeple have used sched 40 without problems. Just remember that a bigger hole must be drilled when using sched 80 bulkhead, so plan accordingly.


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Old 01/18/2006, 01:07 PM   #194
sea knight
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chrisT, perhaps they account for a slightly larger hole because of wiggle room? For example, If you drill a normal hole with a drill bit, it isn't the exact width of the bit... maybe they are thinking the same thing?

Just a thought... no idea if it will apply to your situation.


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Old 01/18/2006, 01:59 PM   #195
causeofhim
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Quote:
Originally posted by chrisT
Maring Depot says you need a 2 3/8 " hole for the 1.5" bulkheads, but doing the math on the 60mm hole saw gives me a 2.36" hole which isnt quite 2.375. I just wanted to double check with the experienced glass drillers that the bulkhead will fit witout having to open the hole up anymore. Thanks for the great thread, local shops want 35 a hole with no guarantee on breakage. I would much rather do it myslef.
I used a 60mm bit for my 1 1/2" bulkheads. Although, my bulkheads were standard sch. 40 and it was a tight fit. If they were any bigger, they wouldn't have fit.


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Old 01/19/2006, 06:27 AM   #196
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You could likely go 65 mm that is 2.56", Which makes the hole just over 1/8" bigger in diameter, and only 1/16" bigger around the edges of the bulkhead . The gasket should cover it


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Old 01/22/2006, 08:01 AM   #197
REEF-DADDY
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Has anyone drillled for a 2" bulkhead? The hole size is listed as 3 1/4. I can only find 80(3.15) or 85 (3.38). I bought the 80, figuring I could always make the whole larger if need be. Also has anyone drilled such a large whole in 3/8" glass. Will I need more than one bit?

Thanks


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Old 01/22/2006, 08:58 AM   #198
nikonosis
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im gonna be drilling in a 180g, i dunno what the glass thickness is. I am just waiting on my bits to get here.


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Old 01/22/2006, 08:58 AM   #199
REEF-DADDY
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Quote:
Originally posted by nikonosis
im gonna be drilling in a 180g, i dunno what the glass thickness is. I am just waiting on my bits to get here.
likely 3/8"


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280 Gallon BB mixed reef
PM bullet 3 powered by a PCX-70,400w HQI Radiums,Tunze Wavebox,AC III
Litermeter III,PCX-70 pushing 2 Eductors,Geo 624 Ca Reactor,125 sump, Dart Return

Current Tank Info: 280 SPS reef
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Old 01/23/2006, 06:50 PM   #200
ray22
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Talking bulkhead question for an awsome thread

i jsut wanted to say this thread has saved me over 200 bucks . my question is i just ordered two glass drill bits for a bargin 5 bucks each . ( hell yeah) 50 bucks plus everywhere else. my question is what is the difference between double threaded fitting,a thread slip fit ? i just want to run pvc out of the back of the bulkhead to the drain and back to the return bulkhead from the pump and attach lock line to all of the returns and screens on the one closed loop drain . what kind of bulkhead do you suggest ? i am at a loss with all this slip and thread bulkhead [email protected] thank you for your advice and for the money savings.. you rock !!


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