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02/15/2017, 08:38 PM | #4951 |
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02/16/2017, 09:49 AM | #4952 |
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Ugh. That's ugly. You can stop the gusset short of the corner. This is one of those that is gonna be tricky. First you have to clean the junk off with a vinegar soak, then clear out all those joints (if they end up with moisture in them, could take a while), then you're going to have multiple gussets meeting up in the corners, and the best way to do this is to pour them all at close times, so make one pour, let it set for 20 minutes, make the next, etc, tipping the tank one direction each time
Then there's the back seam that you cannot see...hope you got a deal on this tank I would use the 1" gussets on this one. Tank looks like it might be underbuilt to begin with, and whatever is going on with the seams is indicative of a poor welding job, moving the tank too soon after setting the joint, improper support, poor quality material, or a combination of those.
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02/16/2017, 11:06 AM | #4953 |
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Ok. Thanks again. I know where another tank similar to this one is that I might look into. This is the first acrylic tank that I've had, so I went into this sorta blind. I guess I know what to look for from now on. If I decide to fix this one, I'll post some pics and progress.
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02/26/2017, 11:35 AM | #4954 |
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I am trying to do my first edge preps. Please let me know how they look, and then maybe talk me through what I am doing wrong.
I am using a 1/2" Diablo template bit on a router table. Template is MDF. This is really just a practice run to see how the edge looks. IMO, I still see cut marks, although they are very smooth. Much better than the saw cut edge. I tried a second pass and notice no difference. Opinions/Advise?
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40g DIY AIO. DT Size is 27"x18"x17" SCA-301 skimmer, DIY ATS 4"x4" 1 cube setup, Ocean Revive 120w LED, Quiet One 3000, Jager 150w TBS Rock |
02/26/2017, 07:56 PM | #4955 |
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Those vertical lines are expected/typical when final routing. You're good
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02/27/2017, 09:15 AM | #4956 |
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I'm sorry if this has been answered, I did a search on the thread but didn't find what I was looking for. Do you have a picture or a link on how to install and use a gusset. I have a tank that has a leaking seam and I might have to go that route.
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- John *blackthunda stands for a black Mistubishi 3000GT with black rims I used to own. Don't get any funny ideas! Current Tank Info: 200 Gal custom tank with dual corner overflows, 80 gal custom sump/refugium, Neptune Apex controller, Dual Lumenmax Elite reflectors with 250 Radiums, SWC 160 Cone Skimmer, 2x Jebao WP-25....and some other stuff. |
02/27/2017, 10:16 AM | #4957 | |
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Quote:
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40g DIY AIO. DT Size is 27"x18"x17" SCA-301 skimmer, DIY ATS 4"x4" 1 cube setup, Ocean Revive 120w LED, Quiet One 3000, Jager 150w TBS Rock |
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03/16/2017, 10:07 AM | #4958 |
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Which is typically used for acrylic tanks, Plexiglas G or Plexiglas GP ?
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03/18/2017, 12:17 PM | #4959 |
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My brain feels rusty right now... Plex G is the good stuff, GM is (IIRC) the extruded stuff, GP I believe is what some distributors call the generic cell-cast stuff. This is also sometimes called PMACS, it is made by Arkema and has a plain brown paper mask (no markings) but it made at the same factory as Plex G, it is made to compete with other cheaper cast products. Basically, it is the same as Plex G but it maybe didn't pass certain quality checks like thickness consistency or clarity (flecks, surface imperfections, discoloration, etc)
Personally I've noticed no difference between Plex G and PMACS, and the warranty on G only covers a full sheet that has not been machined. So you would have to unmask the entire sheet to examine it, if it was fine, you would have to re-mask it before machining. If you found a flaw, you would have to be one of the few that buys $100K worth of their product a year in order to get paid for re-doing the tank. That being said, a display tank should still be made with Plex G IMO. PMACS is perfectly fine for sumps and frag tanks, etc.
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03/20/2017, 06:21 AM | #4960 | |
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Quote:
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03/21/2017, 07:06 AM | #4961 |
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Considering building a rimless tank....Dimensions would be 40" x 36" x 24". What acrylic thickness would be recommended?
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03/21/2017, 11:25 AM | #4962 | ||
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Quote:
Plexiglass G and GM are the same thing, "MC" (melt calendar) is the extruded material. If you're seeing Plexiglass GP, it would be odd as Plex GP is the European version of Cyro/Evonik's Acrylite GP. Evonik owns the European rights to the name Plexiglass. Odd.... Quote:
HTH, James |
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03/21/2017, 11:46 AM | #4963 | |
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Quote:
Under the Literature by Supplier link http://www.piedmontplastics.com/cast-acrylic-sheet/
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03/21/2017, 11:53 AM | #4964 | |
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In short, I wouldn't, but it *may* be okay. Plex G/GM would be preferred if you don't want to spend the money on Polycast/Polyone. James |
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03/21/2017, 11:59 AM | #4965 | |
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Quote:
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03/21/2017, 12:02 PM | #4966 | |
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Quote:
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03/21/2017, 12:10 PM | #4967 | |
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Quote:
Commercial grade Polycast/Polyone (not listed in the link) is by far the best material but is ~50% more expensive than Plex G/GM. Polyone is a bigger player in the aerospace materials and that's where they make good $$. They still have the commercial side, but have increased pricing a lot over the last few years. They used to be 15-20% more than Plex G but the gap is a good bit bigger nowadays. Most of the bigger distributors like Piedmont "carry" it as a line, but *very few* keep it in stock. James |
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03/21/2017, 12:26 PM | #4968 | |
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03/21/2017, 03:22 PM | #4969 |
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Thanks James....
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03/22/2017, 08:09 AM | #4970 | |
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Quote:
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03/22/2017, 12:57 PM | #4971 | |
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Quote:
James |
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03/23/2017, 06:14 AM | #4972 | |
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Quote:
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04/05/2017, 10:14 AM | #4973 |
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I was wondering what type of foam or underlayment would be best between the stand and a acrylic tank?
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04/07/2017, 09:41 AM | #4974 |
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What's the best bit for edge prep?
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04/07/2017, 09:59 AM | #4975 |
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James- I've read in some of your older posts that you recommend installing square rod gussets with WO 40, what's the proper procedure for that?
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