Reef Central Online Community

Go Back   Reef Central Online Community > General Interest Forums > Do It Yourself
Blogs FAQ Calendar Mark Forums Read

Notices

User Tag List

Reply
Thread Tools
Unread 01/04/2009, 09:18 AM   #26
BeanAnimal
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Pittsburgh
Posts: 20,772
Make sure the siphon standpipe is not submerged more than an 1" or so. You can also drill a small hole or two in the siphon standpipe near the water line of the sump. It sound slike trapped air is keeping it from starting. You should also ensure that the open channel standpipe is getting enough air.


BeanAnimal is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01/04/2009, 04:40 PM   #27
robertifly
Premium Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Milan, Tn
Posts: 867
Bean, on the depth of the siphon, are you speaking of when running or when DT is drained fully down to sump?
When running the siphon is 1" under water, when DT drained down siphon 4.5" under.
When running the open channel under 1-2". open channel 4.5-5" under.
The only other measurable difference in the two is the valve in the siphon drain, the air line in the open channel and the open channel measures 1/16" higher at the bulkhead.
All those factors should give the siphon drain the edge, yes?
I have not drilled the hole at the water line yet, I'm thinking that would be at the water line with DT drained down?


__________________
reefracer

Current Tank Info: none
robertifly is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01/04/2009, 05:13 PM   #28
BeanAnimal
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Pittsburgh
Posts: 20,772
I would drill the hole just above the water mark at the sumps normal operating level. Remembver the return pump is going to lower the level, no matter which pipe is running


BeanAnimal is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01/04/2009, 06:30 PM   #29
LoneRanger
Registered Member
 
LoneRanger's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Ocala, Fl
Posts: 261
Quote:
Originally posted by mflamb
Once I drilled a small hole in the two siphon channel pipes, it works great.

wher do the small holes go?


__________________
Profanity Makes Ignorance Audible

Current Tank Info: 300+ Room Divider
LoneRanger is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01/04/2009, 06:30 PM   #30
LoneRanger
Registered Member
 
LoneRanger's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Ocala, Fl
Posts: 261
dbl post


__________________
Profanity Makes Ignorance Audible

Current Tank Info: 300+ Room Divider
LoneRanger is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01/04/2009, 06:35 PM   #31
oldsaltman
Registered Member
 
oldsaltman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Ga
Posts: 1,333
Bean, I designed my overflow just as you described it you your first post. I have a full 4" x 6" box with three 1 1/2" outlets. I just finished gluing my baffles in place. Is there anything about the final design that I should change? I just want to make sure I will have an overflow that works like described.


__________________
"No honey I can't just send it back. It's all wet and they won't take it back now!"

Current Tank Info: 90g inwall with a 30g sump
oldsaltman is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01/04/2009, 07:03 PM   #32
BeanAnimal
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Pittsburgh
Posts: 20,772
If you are concerned about the siphon starting, then you can place the open channel standpipe bulkhead slightly higher (1/2" or so) than the siphon standpipe bulkhead.


BeanAnimal is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01/04/2009, 07:20 PM   #33
mflamb
Registered Member
 
mflamb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Pasadena, Texas
Posts: 8,422
LoneRanger, the small drilled holes go in the siphon channel pipe just above the water level in the sump. The holes help vent the air from the siphon channel so that channel starts up like it should. It made all the difference in my system.


__________________
Click on my red house to see my 390 and 300 build thread. Those are my last 2 tanks in Tampa. Now in Pasadena waiting to buy a house to set up my next tank....anemones and clowns...probably a 3x3 150 gallon.
mflamb is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01/04/2009, 07:21 PM   #34
mflamb
Registered Member
 
mflamb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Pasadena, Texas
Posts: 8,422
Quote:
Originally posted by jmking33
mflamb...super nice work..very clean..love it.
Thanks dude, if you come down I-4 to Tampa, stop by for a visit. I'm 10 minutes fromthe highway.


__________________
Click on my red house to see my 390 and 300 build thread. Those are my last 2 tanks in Tampa. Now in Pasadena waiting to buy a house to set up my next tank....anemones and clowns...probably a 3x3 150 gallon.
mflamb is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01/04/2009, 07:48 PM   #35
02WRXGT30R
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Tenessee
Posts: 145
Hey Bean i am planning to run a overflow system very similar to yours except do to size restrictions and tank design i have to change a few thing and was wanting your opinion on my design. My overflow box will be attached to the back of my tank and the tank will be cut to allow water to run in, the dimensions of the overflow will be 28wide by 5deep and 5 tall and the 1" bulkheads will be through the bottom of the overflow and it will be similar to this setup



and this is the design i have so far



It is all 1" and from the bottom of the overflow to the center line of the "T" is about 3 1/4"

does this appear that it will function similar or do you think i will have problems and suggestions or opinions will be greatly appreciated Thanks


02WRXGT30R is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01/04/2009, 09:10 PM   #36
BeanAnimal
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Pittsburgh
Posts: 20,772
It should work just fine, of course depending on the total volume it has to process. I would opt for larger elbows as intakes, even though the Tee is 1"


BeanAnimal is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01/05/2009, 05:12 AM   #37
02WRXGT30R
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Tenessee
Posts: 145
ok i will look into that thanks for the input and the total flow wont be anything big its only a 50gal. tank with a 20gal. sump so maybe 500gph


02WRXGT30R is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01/05/2009, 10:39 AM   #38
oldsaltman
Registered Member
 
oldsaltman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Ga
Posts: 1,333
Quote:
Originally posted by BeanAnimal
If you are concerned about the siphon starting, then you can place the open channel standpipe bulkhead slightly higher (1/2" or so) than the siphon standpipe bulkhead.
The bulkheads are already in place. Would changing the depth of the elbow in the overflow help, or should I just go with it and see what happens?

Quote:
LoneRanger, the small drilled holes go in the siphon channel pipe just above the water level in the sump. The holes help vent the air from the siphon channel so that channel starts up like it should. It made all the difference in my system.
Should I try this or wait and see?


__________________
"No honey I can't just send it back. It's all wet and they won't take it back now!"

Current Tank Info: 90g inwall with a 30g sump
oldsaltman is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01/05/2009, 11:44 AM   #39
BeanAnimal
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Pittsburgh
Posts: 20,772
Changing the depth of the elbow will only work the standpipes go through the bottom of the box. If they are horizontal (through the back of the box) then the weir height is dictated by the bulkhead height.

You can drill the holes are wait and see... It will not hurt to drill them but may not be necessary.


BeanAnimal is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01/06/2009, 05:57 AM   #40
robertifly
Premium Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Milan, Tn
Posts: 867
BeanAnimal, you're "da man" the two little holes in the siphon took care of the problem, transition is now less than 2 min and was like 30 before with lots of cycling from the open channel going full siphon and emptying the overflow box. Very pleased with the outcome. Thanks again


__________________
reefracer

Current Tank Info: none
robertifly is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01/06/2009, 06:07 AM   #41
BeanAnimal
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Pittsburgh
Posts: 20,772
Glad to hear that it is up and running. It is also good that you have been able to see the fail-safe feature working!


BeanAnimal is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01/06/2009, 11:40 AM   #42
EnglishRebel
Retired Rebel Reefer
 
EnglishRebel's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Triad NC
Posts: 1,902
Bean
I have just ordered a 60Lx30Dx24H custom glass with an external 48L X 6D X 12H overflow on the back panel. I'm having the bottom of the overflow drilled for 6 1-1/2" bulkheads as I'm gong to have two sets of "PERFECT SILENT DRAIN SYSTEM". My question is twofold.[list=1][*]Will having two sets of BeanAnimal overflows in the same box create any problems? The tanks not built yet so I have the option to get them to divide the box in two.[*] I believe that you had 1" bulkheads and bushed the overflow pipes to fit. Was this done for a reason and will having the full 1-1/2" in my setup cause any problems?[/list=1] Thanks


__________________
Alan

"Never in the field of human conflict was so much owed by so many to so few. "
Sir Winston Churchill praising those young RAF pilots.
August 20th 1940
Click on my name for drop down list and select "Visit EnglishRebels Home Page" for my build thread.

Current Tank Info: 60x30x24 200G AO custom glass tank, basement equipment room, 30G and 55G Fuges, LifeReef sump & 30" skimmer.
EnglishRebel is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01/06/2009, 01:31 PM   #43
Kshack
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Ridgefield, WA
Posts: 202
A little help please.
I have a 250 gal tank with the overflow box and two drains just like you have. Currently have Durso type and basement sump. Bought new house and am in the middle of moving the tank. I can drill another hole for the three return system, but here is my current situation/ problem. Tank will be in theater room, and sump will be in room next to tank (large storage room). Idea is for return to go down under the floor, lateral either 10 or 15 feet (prefer the 15 foot side of the room) and then back up through floor to the sump located on the floor. I was thinking I would come into the sump with an open "T" to allow air to escape, but not sure how big I need the drain pipe to be (currently have 1.5 inch spaflex).
Will it work? Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Ken


Kshack is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01/06/2009, 05:34 PM   #44
oldsaltman
Registered Member
 
oldsaltman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Ga
Posts: 1,333
Bean, I had to tilt two of my drains slightly to handle space issues. (poor planing) Do you see any reason that that would matter?



I also had to scrape off some paint so I could see to level the overflow and get it siliconed in place.


__________________
"No honey I can't just send it back. It's all wet and they won't take it back now!"

Current Tank Info: 90g inwall with a 30g sump
oldsaltman is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01/07/2009, 09:52 AM   #45
BeanAnimal
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Pittsburgh
Posts: 20,772
Guys... I will answer the posts, but I am a bit behind today and will be without internet access for most of the day... I will try and get to it this evening.


BeanAnimal is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01/08/2009, 01:16 PM   #46
vair
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Alberta
Posts: 465
Thanks for the informative thread, I'll be incorporating your design into my 300+G. build I have under way.

I was wondering what you and others think the advantages and disadvantages of a intank weir compared to behind tank weir?
I think behind tank 'looks' better as you do not take up tank space. I'm more concerned about strength. My build will be about a 8 foot wide tank with close to a coast to coast overflow.
Do you think a rear mounted overflow box would add strength like euro bracing would? With a intank weir you would have the strength of the weir and could still ad eruo bracing if you wanted. So I guess my question is about tank strength; intank or behind tank is there a difference in tank strength? Other comments regarding the good and bad of each would also be appreciated.


Thanks.


__________________
Dave
---------------------------------
Really I like my bare bottom.

"go snowboarding" www.sourceboards.com

Current Tank Info: Building a in wall 300G reef tank.
vair is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01/08/2009, 01:36 PM   #47
tonyespinoza
Premium Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: santa cruz mountains
Posts: 1,268
who's manufacturing your tank? (sounds exciting!)


tonyespinoza is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01/08/2009, 01:38 PM   #48
EnglishRebel
Retired Rebel Reefer
 
EnglishRebel's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Triad NC
Posts: 1,902
Quote:
Originally posted by vair
Thanks for the informative thread, I'll be incorporating your design into my 300+G. build I have under way.

I was wondering what you and others think the advantages and disadvantages of a intank weir compared to behind tank weir?
I think behind tank 'looks' better as you do not take up tank space. I'm more concerned about strength. My build will be about a 8 foot wide tank with close to a coast to coast overflow.
Do you think a rear mounted overflow box would add strength like euro bracing would? With a intank weir you would have the strength of the weir and could still ad eruo bracing if you wanted. So I guess my question is about tank strength; intank or behind tank is there a difference in tank strength? Other comments regarding the good and bad of each would also be appreciated.Thanks.
I don't want to answer for Bean but my tank manufacturer said that an external coast to coast overflow actually strengthens the tank. I guess it's like having extra Eurobracing.


__________________
Alan

"Never in the field of human conflict was so much owed by so many to so few. "
Sir Winston Churchill praising those young RAF pilots.
August 20th 1940
Click on my name for drop down list and select "Visit EnglishRebels Home Page" for my build thread.

Current Tank Info: 60x30x24 200G AO custom glass tank, basement equipment room, 30G and 55G Fuges, LifeReef sump & 30" skimmer.
EnglishRebel is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01/08/2009, 01:59 PM   #49
vair
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Alberta
Posts: 465
Quote:
Originally posted by EnglishRebel
I don't want to answer for Bean but my tank manufacturer said that an external coast to coast overflow actually strengthens the tank. I guess it's like having extra Eurobracing.
interesting... with external the way I see it you cant' have Euro bracing? I would have assumed interior being stronger? Did your tank manufacturer mean it strengthens the tank more then a tank with out Eurobracing, or it is actually stronger Vs. interior coast to coast?


__________________
Dave
---------------------------------
Really I like my bare bottom.

"go snowboarding" www.sourceboards.com

Current Tank Info: Building a in wall 300G reef tank.
vair is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01/08/2009, 03:51 PM   #50
EnglishRebel
Retired Rebel Reefer
 
EnglishRebel's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Triad NC
Posts: 1,902
Quote:
Originally posted by vair
interesting... with external the way I see it you cant' have Euro bracing? I would have assumed interior being stronger? Did your tank manufacturer mean it strengthens the tank more then a tank with out Eurobracing, or it is actually stronger Vs. interior coast to coast?
I'm having a 60x30 built with a 48 rear external. I will have Eurobracing and they said that an external overflow made it stronger. I don't know why you can't have Eurobracing with and external.


__________________
Alan

"Never in the field of human conflict was so much owed by so many to so few. "
Sir Winston Churchill praising those young RAF pilots.
August 20th 1940
Click on my name for drop down list and select "Visit EnglishRebels Home Page" for my build thread.

Current Tank Info: 60x30x24 200G AO custom glass tank, basement equipment room, 30G and 55G Fuges, LifeReef sump & 30" skimmer.
EnglishRebel is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
beananimal, plumbing

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 03:50 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Powered by Searchlight © 2024 Axivo Inc.
Use of this web site is subject to the terms and conditions described in the user agreement.
Reef CentralTM Reef Central, LLC. Copyright ©1999-2022
User Alert System provided by Advanced User Tagging v3.3.0 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2024 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.