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10/01/2011, 07:35 PM | #51 | |
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Browning has been an issue for all types of LED fixtures.. and usually due to not acclimating the corals to the LED lighting. I plan to dim down my lights and start at 15% and go up 1-2% increments daily until the corals are accustomed to the lights at 50% (the highest ramp-up I plan to go to at this time).
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10/01/2011, 08:03 PM | #52 | |
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i was under the impression that you felt red and rgb were good for corals missing spectrum, not just for looks. please clarify? post 33? thank you |
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10/01/2011, 08:09 PM | #53 | |
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The left side of the tank is lited with green while the right side is lited with blue [IMG] Flickr 上 WingoAgency 的 LED and Discus B IMG_2041[/IMG] |
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10/01/2011, 08:23 PM | #54 |
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Just some food for thought here...
This is a photo from a Japanese LED reefing site showing the spectrum of the sun, along with (what I believe to be) the spectral peaks for optimal coral coloration. For comparison, here's what cool white and royal blue looks like according to the same website: It's a little ridiculous to expect good results in terms of color when so much is lacking here. Mainly, it's lacking ~650nm, ~420nm, 500nm and in UV. As opposed to RGB, I would suggest adding a deep red LED that peaks around 650nm (ex. the Osram 660nm 3w- most commonly used red LEDs are in the ~620-640nm range, so they won't work for filling in that gap), an LED that peaks around 420nm (the SemiLED BlueViolet is the only one I know of- 415-420nm), and an LED that peaks around 500nm (the 3w Cyan Rebel is the only one I know of- the "Cree blues" commonly used to fill in this gap are 465-485nm, which won't completely work). I'm not completely sure about the need for UV yet (I haven't done enough research on this, although I've heard that the colorful coral "sunscreen" is in fact transparent- but again, I don't really know). However, these 3 LEDs (when mixed with Neutral White and Royal Blue) should give stunning results for coloration/aesthetics. Last edited by JaneG; 10/01/2011 at 08:30 PM. |
10/01/2011, 08:44 PM | #55 | |
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They have red-only auxiliary pads out now... but most of us Illumina owners are waiting for a mixed pad of red and UV. Auxiliary pads consist of two channels of 4 LEDs and fit between the main pads. So with my 36" Illumina that has 6 main pads, I can upgrade to 4 auxiliary pads. I will say that green is starting to sound more interesting though.
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10/01/2011, 08:45 PM | #56 |
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thank you Jane,
So your suggested mix in summary is: NW, RB, + Red (Osram 660nm), Blue/Violet (SemiLED)420nm, Cyan Rebel 500nm |
10/01/2011, 09:03 PM | #57 | |
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Last edited by JaneG; 10/01/2011 at 09:23 PM. |
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10/01/2011, 09:37 PM | #58 |
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looks like a eco lamp, Acan plus others
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10/01/2011, 10:02 PM | #59 |
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According to the owner's build profile, it is the Eco-Lamp like you stated. It uses Neutral White LEDs, Cool White LEDs, 420nm BlueViolet LEDs, 405nm UV LEDs, Royal Blue, Blue LEDs (475nm) and Cyan LEDs (500nm). I can't really think of any parts of the spectrum it's missing- it's a great example of what LEDs can do. Here's another photo from a reefer in Japan using the same wide spectrum fixture:
His results are equally amazing. Last edited by JaneG; 10/01/2011 at 10:17 PM. |
10/01/2011, 10:11 PM | #60 |
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wow, what's making the red pop?
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10/01/2011, 10:33 PM | #61 |
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To be honest, I'm not entirely sure. However, here's a photo from the same Japanese website that shows what a tank looks like with BlueViolet LEDs only (420nm).
For whatever reason, the greens in this photo are really bright. I'm going to try to translate this photo: Notice that for the 420nm area, the greens peak? Maybe this has something to do with reading it. I have heard some people claiming that cyan LEDs (~500nm) make their reds pop. This could be a part of the equation. The fixture also uses Neutral White LEDs, which (as I'm sure you know) have had good success with increasing red colors to an extent. |
10/01/2011, 10:40 PM | #62 |
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thanks for all your effort, Jane.
i guess WW is out of the mix, huh? Last edited by pmrossetti; 10/01/2011 at 10:46 PM. |
10/01/2011, 11:16 PM | #63 | |
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The orange text on the far left says "Carotene" (or "orange pigment") and the website in general talks about "fluorescent dyes" and "photosynthetic pigments" at this point of the article. With this in mind, I'm almost certain that the cyan LEDs are bringing out such vibrant red coloration (because of where the "red" line peaks on the graph). This is somewhat interesting, as many LED users have problems with their reds- maybe it's because of the lack of cyan/green? I've noticed most people have no problems with their green coloration and LEDs (as suggested by topics like this)- Royal Blue LEDs are ~450nm, and the green line on the graph peaks at this exact location. If all of this information is correct, I'm no longer convinced that the deep red LED (660nm) is necessary, as the "green line" reaches its peak right where the Royal Blue is. Now that it is known how to read the graph, it should be interesting to see what LEDs will bring out what colors. As for the warm white LEDs... I don't think they're unnecessary (but they aren't that different than Neutral White when you mix them together with cool white). To be honest, you most likely wouldn't see any difference between the two (Warm White mixed with Cool White vs. Neutral White). It could be a good option for people looking to supplement their already made LED fixtures that use Cool White. Sorry to kind of rant on about this- best of luck to you on any potential LED plans you might have! Last edited by JaneG; 10/01/2011 at 11:21 PM. |
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10/01/2011, 11:22 PM | #64 |
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no rant, very interesting. thank you much.
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10/01/2011, 11:37 PM | #65 |
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I think a big key that Jane touched on with this information of a "full spectrum" is ratios. These Japanese tanks look amazing but someone really has put in some effort getting the LED ratio correct...
Jane is there any info on that site about the ratios some of these tanks are using?? |
10/02/2011, 05:27 AM | #66 | |
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I am testing red at the moment and am noting a certain amount of bleaching/paling with higher levels. This would support the idea that red light actually inhibits zooxanthellae (Dana Riddle's data somewhat supports this). An interesting situation, as, properly applied, this may allow us to control the zooxanthellae density and thus the colour of the corals. It could be problematic, as well, with ODing actually damaging th corals. Plus, many may not like the general colouration. Again, aesthetic, but this time based on some interesting results. Don't quote me on this, as it is too soon to be sure and I've only noted this on Montipora digitata, M. samarensis and another plating Monti. These have a fast metabolism and respond very quickly to light changes. Jamie
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10/02/2011, 05:40 AM | #67 |
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Apparently, most of the patent preventing this has been overthrown (as it should have been. Very irresponsible patent office!)
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10/02/2011, 05:45 AM | #68 | |
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jamie
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Jamie V. Cologne Current Tank Info: 1000l dual-tank w/sump, Vertex Pro-Bio Pellets reef; VERTEX Illumina SR260 LED+Red light, Vertex Alpha 250 skimmer |
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10/02/2011, 06:34 AM | #69 | |
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Steve Am I really doing all of this for a fish tank?????? Current Tank Info: 360g Envision Acrylic Tank, Closed Loops, Vectra L1's, MP40QD's, 400w Radiums, Regal 300ext, Dastaco Ext3 CaRx, Controlled by GHL Profilux |
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10/02/2011, 07:35 AM | #70 | |
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Just my opinion on overall effect.
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Jamie V. Cologne Current Tank Info: 1000l dual-tank w/sump, Vertex Pro-Bio Pellets reef; VERTEX Illumina SR260 LED+Red light, Vertex Alpha 250 skimmer |
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10/02/2011, 08:37 AM | #71 |
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Jane,
nice to see the graphics on pigment wavelength response. This is an interesting area, but graphics can be misleading, as well. To get more background on pigments under light, the articles from Dana Riddle and co. lay down some interesting ground work. Maybe you've already read through them. I've noted some fluorescent pigments respond to wavelenghts that they do not actually reflect, rather convert from another pigments wavelengths. A sort of symbiosis. Just knowing this may happen makes sorting out the right wavelengths for specific colours in corals a real challenge. Jamie
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10/02/2011, 10:07 AM | #72 |
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jamie,
As of now, do illumina have RGB clusters or only RED LEDs available as a option? You mantion that one unit can cover 36" wide tank..HMMM , i am not so sure about it and you tank only 25" as per you specs.. this is my great concern sincei am planning something like 72x36x24. mike mike |
10/02/2011, 12:01 PM | #73 | |
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At this time Vertex only has red auxiliary pads out right now... but they have an open ear to their customers. The beauty of this light is it is modular. Something that most people do not realize about this fixture is that it is future proof... every single pad is replaceable if new better pads come out in the future. Also between the main pads you can add 2 more channels of light, each pad have 2 different color possibilities. I love how this thread has evolved, because I really want to know which LED colors NEED to be supplemented in to our required blues and whites. VERTEX I hope you're following this thread. Lots of great information.
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10/02/2011, 12:04 PM | #74 | |
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10/02/2011, 12:18 PM | #75 |
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Has anyone looked at the new coral magazine because they have a huge article on all the led technology and might help but this topic to bed. I know most of it is personal preference but what works best for the corals is the ultimate goal!
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