TTM explained please

Daddyrawg · 02/19/2019, 05:52 PM

anyone have a link on how TTM works? I get the 2 tanks thing and transfer fish every 3 days, I guess my question is when you transfer fish from old tank to new tank are you supposed to discard old water from tank that fish is removed and replace with new water? if I have a 20 gall and a 10 gal and I have to keep replacing water I guess that can add up ...

Thanks

nereefpat · 02/19/2019, 06:47 PM

Yes, you have to replace the water.

You have to allow everything from tank 1 to dry for 24hrs before filling with water again.

Daddyrawg · 02/19/2019, 06:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nereefpat

Yes, you have to replace the water.

You have to allow everything from tank 1 to dry for 24hrs before filling with water again.

That sounds annoying

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MondoBongo · 02/20/2019, 08:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Daddyrawg

That sounds annoying

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far less annoying than trying to extract and treat sick fish from a display tank.

there is certainly up front cost to any quarantine method, but it's well worth it in my opinion once you factor in the cost and time associated with keeping a saltwater tank. ounce of prevention, etc... etc...

nereefpat · 02/20/2019, 09:28 AM

200 gallon box of IO salt costs about 50$....so about .25 / gallon.

Each transfer (10 gallons, in your case) costs $2.50.

4 transfers costs 10 bucks. That's probably cheaper than buying meds. Definitely cheaper than losing any fish. You can even use water out of your display, if the display is ich free.

It really isn't that big of a pain. But everyone does the QT thing differently. Try it and see.

Dmorty217 · 02/20/2019, 10:50 AM

There is a sticky on this in the disease section I believe. My suggestion would be to read up on diseases and treatment. Tank wipe outs because of disease is the single leading cause of people leaving the hobby

Daddyrawg · 02/20/2019, 11:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nereefpat

200 gallon box of IO salt costs about 50$....so about .25 / gallon.

Each transfer (10 gallons, in your case) costs $2.50.

4 transfers costs 10 bucks. That's probably cheaper than buying meds. Definitely cheaper than losing any fish. You can even use water out of your display, if the display is ich free.

It really isn't that big of a pain. But everyone does the QT thing differently. Try it and see.

Nice break down thank you.. I'm lazy I guess.. All I have done so far with my 8 healthy fish is just buy from a reputable store and observe in QT for 3-4 wks each. I was thinking of getting a small blue hippo tang for my 90, but I have a feeling this one will have ich so I am preparing myself for either Hypo or TTM..

nereefpat · 02/20/2019, 12:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Daddyrawg

Nice break down thank you.. I'm lazy I guess.. All I have done so far with my 8 healthy fish is just buy from a reputable store and observe in QT for 3-4 wks each. I was thinking of getting a small blue hippo tang for my 90, but I have a feeling this one will have ich so I am preparing myself for either Hypo or TTM..

You're welcome. Hopefully I didn't insult your intelligence.

A good, local store with healthy fish sure helps.

Since you have an observation/qt tank set up anyway, you could look into copper or chloroquine phosphate. Or you can observe for a few weeks and go from there. Like I said, everyone does QT a little differently.

The nice thing about TTM is that it's a quick (max 12 days), fairly cheap/easy, and proven way of eliminating ich.

Daddyrawg · 02/20/2019, 12:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nereefpat

You're welcome. Hopefully I didn't insult your intelligence.

A good, local store with healthy fish sure helps.

Since you have an observation/qt tank set up anyway, you could look into copper or chloroquine phosphate. Or you can observe for a few weeks and go from there. Like I said, everyone does QT a little differently.

The nice thing about TTM is that it's a quick (max 12 days), fairly cheap/easy, and proven way of eliminating ich.

Yah I like the idea of TTM.. I think copper might be hard on tangs even though I have a new bottle of cupramine just chillin.

Uncle99 · 02/20/2019, 12:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Daddyrawg

Yah I like the idea of TTM.. I think copper might be hard on tangs even though I have a new bottle of cupramine just chillin.

Yes, Copper is hard on tangs, always try TTM or Hypo for Ick.

Those blues are Ick magnets, but very cool fish!

hkgar · 02/20/2019, 01:09 PM

Here is the sticky at the top of this forum.

Please consider the fish and do not get a Blue Hippo for a 90 gallon tank. It is recommended that the tank be 240 gallons and 8 foot for this fish. They grow to about 12 inches and need a lot of swimming room.

Daddyrawg · 02/20/2019, 01:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hkgar

Here is the sticky at the top of this forum.

Please consider the fish and do not get a Blue Hippo for a 90 gallon tank. It is recommended that the tank be 240 gallons and 8 foot for this fish. They grow to about 12 inches and need a lot of swimming room.

lol 240, fine i'll pass

Daddyrawg · 02/20/2019, 01:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Uncle99

Yes, Copper is hard on tangs, always try TTM or Hypo for Ick.

Those blues are Ick magnets, but very cool fish!

is that your blue and how big is your tank?

hkgar · 02/20/2019, 01:17 PM

Here is a guide for recommended tank sizes for tangs.
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh....php?t=1946079

Daddyrawg · 02/20/2019, 01:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hkgar

Here is a guide for recommended tank sizes for tangs.
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh....php?t=1946079

yeah I know but Ive seen a million healthy blues in 90's- 180's

Uncle99 · 02/22/2019, 12:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Daddyrawg

is that your blue and how big is your tank?

Yup my blue and his friend a yellow also in 65g.

Yes they grow, but it will take about 2-3 years.

Every 3-5 years I upgrade, not concerned at all.

The blue and the yellow were put in at the same time, the blue is 3" and the yellow is 4".
They were both QT together so they became friends.

The are fed well and their home is immaculate, no problems at all.

As long as you understand that the tang will require more space in the future or can be traded into LFS, then the 90g is quite doable.

There must low or no agression tank mates for this to work well.

Mine are
Blue, yellow, Anthais, Firefish, mandarin, lawnmower, pair of clowns, red fire shrimp.

Have fun

Daddyrawg · 02/22/2019, 01:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by uncle99

yup my blue and his friend a yellow also in 65g.

Yes they grow, but it will take about 2-3 years.

Every 3-5 years i upgrade, not concerned at all.

The blue and the yellow were put in at the same time, the blue is 3" and the yellow is 4".
They were both qt together so they became friends.

The are fed well and their home is immaculate, no problems at all.

As long as you understand that the tang will require more space in the future or can be traded into lfs, then the 90g is quite doable.

There must low or no agression tank mates for this to work well.

Mine are
blue, yellow, anthais, firefish, mandarin, lawnmower, pair of clowns, red fire shrimp.

Have fun

agreed

sde1500 · 02/22/2019, 02:56 PM

Just a note, if you didn't QT the other fish, there is still the chance of ich in the system. You could go through this and then find the fish still gets ich.

Daddyrawg · 02/22/2019, 03:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sde1500

Just a note, if you didn't QT the other fish, there is still the chance of ich in the system. You could go through this and then find the fish still gets ich.

True

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Uncle99 · 02/22/2019, 05:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Daddyrawg

True

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Fight Ick (if it exists) by keeping fish well fed, agression low, water stable.
Parasites like the weak.

If you do decide to try, keep in mind that it would have to be IMO the last fish, same with all tangs, if you try and add another fish, that might not work out well. Add them last, Qt them together, add them to DT together. That's why I did the blue and the yellow together, try and add either later, that most likely would not work.

So for me, no more fish!

Daddyrawg · 02/22/2019, 05:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Uncle99

Fight Ick (if it exists) by keeping fish well fed, agression low, water stable.
Parasites like the weak.

7 months and fish going strong, if i have ich I must be doing something right.

sde1500 · 02/22/2019, 06:00 PM

While ich is the most common ailment it’s far from the most concerning to come across. I barely quarantined either. Did TTM and prazipro on some. Methylene blue too. Some made it through all of TTM. Some didn’t. I didn’t like the sterility of it. Fish were clearly not comfortable in it even with plenty of pvc hideaways. So I guess mostly relying on keeping them healthy through feeding. Long term I plan an upgrade that will involve some more expensive and sensitive fish and at that point I’ok revisit QT procedures. Including current stock.

02/19/2019, 05:52 PM	#1
Daddyrawg Registered Member Join Date: May 2018 Posts: 814	TTM explained please anyone have a link on how TTM works? I get the 2 tanks thing and transfer fish every 3 days, I guess my question is when you transfer fish from old tank to new tank are you supposed to discard old water from tank that fish is removed and replace with new water? if I have a 20 gall and a 10 gal and I have to keep replacing water I guess that can add up ... Thanks

02/19/2019, 06:47 PM	#2
nereefpat Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2016 Location: Central Nebraska Posts: 3,190	Yes, you have to replace the water. You have to allow everything from tank 1 to dry for 24hrs before filling with water again. __________________ Pat Current Tank Info: 125 in-wall , 40b sump. 6 bulb T5. ASM G2 skimmer. LPS and leathers

02/20/2019, 09:28 AM	#5
nereefpat Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2016 Location: Central Nebraska Posts: 3,190	200 gallon box of IO salt costs about 50$....so about .25 / gallon. Each transfer (10 gallons, in your case) costs $2.50. 4 transfers costs 10 bucks. That's probably cheaper than buying meds. Definitely cheaper than losing any fish. You can even use water out of your display, if the display is ich free. It really isn't that big of a pain. But everyone does the QT thing differently. Try it and see. __________________ Pat Current Tank Info: 125 in-wall , 40b sump. 6 bulb T5. ASM G2 skimmer. LPS and leathers

02/20/2019, 10:50 AM	#6
Dmorty217 Saltwater Addict Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Vandalia OHIO Posts: 11,624	There is a sticky on this in the disease section I believe. My suggestion would be to read up on diseases and treatment. Tank wipe outs because of disease is the single leading cause of people leaving the hobby __________________ Fish are not disposable commodities, but a worthwhile investment that can be maintained and enjoyed for many years, providing one is willing to take the time to understand their requirements and needs Current Tank Info: 625g, 220g sump, RD3 230w, Vectra L1 on a closed loop, 3 MP60s, MP40. Several QTs

02/20/2019, 01:09 PM	#11
hkgar Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Dewitt MI Posts: 5,051	Here is the sticky at the top of this forum. Please consider the fish and do not get a Blue Hippo for a 90 gallon tank. It is recommended that the tank be 240 gallons and 8 foot for this fish. They grow to about 12 inches and need a lot of swimming room. __________________ Gary 180 gallon, 40 gallon sump, 3 250 W MH + 4 80W ATI T5's, MTC MVX 36 Skimmer, Apex controller Aquamaxx T-3 CaRx Current Tank Info: A 2 Barred Rabbitfish, Red Head Salon, Yellow/Purple, McMaster Fairy, Possum, 2 Leopard Wrasses, Kole, & Atlantic Blue Tangs, 2 Percula Clown, 3 PJ and 1 Banggai Cardinalfish , Swallowtail, Bellus and Coral Beauty Angels

02/20/2019, 01:17 PM	#14
hkgar Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Dewitt MI Posts: 5,051	Here is a guide for recommended tank sizes for tangs. http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh....php?t=1946079 __________________ Gary 180 gallon, 40 gallon sump, 3 250 W MH + 4 80W ATI T5's, MTC MVX 36 Skimmer, Apex controller Aquamaxx T-3 CaRx Current Tank Info: A 2 Barred Rabbitfish, Red Head Salon, Yellow/Purple, McMaster Fairy, Possum, 2 Leopard Wrasses, Kole, & Atlantic Blue Tangs, 2 Percula Clown, 3 PJ and 1 Banggai Cardinalfish , Swallowtail, Bellus and Coral Beauty Angels

02/22/2019, 02:56 PM	#18
sde1500 Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2015 Location: Glocester, RI Posts: 3,336	Just a note, if you didn't QT the other fish, there is still the chance of ich in the system. You could go through this and then find the fish still gets ich. __________________ My build thread: http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2548422 Current Tank Info: 65 gallon mixed reef, Eshopps sump and HOB overflow, RO-110int skimmer, Reefbreeder 32" photons V1.

02/22/2019, 06:00 PM	#22
sde1500 Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2015 Location: Glocester, RI Posts: 3,336	TTM explained please While ich is the most common ailment it’s far from the most concerning to come across. I barely quarantined either. Did TTM and prazipro on some. Methylene blue too. Some made it through all of TTM. Some didn’t. I didn’t like the sterility of it. Fish were clearly not comfortable in it even with plenty of pvc hideaways. So I guess mostly relying on keeping them healthy through feeding. Long term I plan an upgrade that will involve some more expensive and sensitive fish and at that point I’ok revisit QT procedures. Including current stock. __________________ My build thread: http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2548422 Current Tank Info: 65 gallon mixed reef, Eshopps sump and HOB overflow, RO-110int skimmer, Reefbreeder 32" photons V1.