Salt Water Mixing Stations Let's See Them - Page 72

Thornbreaker · 11/20/2017, 10:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vanburen

Well your end ball valves will let you drain the tanks to somewhere.

I rigged a bottom mix line on my salt tank as well to stir up salt.
You may want an easy way to get RO out for mixing additives etc. I use a siphon hose but a small faucet would have been cleaner.

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Yeah, what about another ball valve above the spout (outlet to the salt tank)? I could then pump either water tank through the spout right?

I Still may keep the ball valves on each end of the bottom tho. Feels like a lot, but the options later could be useful.

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Joel_155 · 12/24/2017, 02:00 PM

Following. Planning on building one out of two 55 gallon drums

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Joel_155 · 12/24/2017, 02:10 PM

So my layout I'm hoping will be ideal. The tank is going on one side of the wall and the mix station will be on the other side in the garage. I plan on having one for RO storage and one for saltwater. On the plumbing I want a fill line that I can run to the tank and use for easy water changes.

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fullonsound · 12/29/2017, 12:42 AM

So I have a newbie question. I have two 55gal drums plumbed together with a pump and my RODI unit overhead.. I have a heater and temp probe in the salt water barrel and the other barrel is for just RODI water.. do I have to have some kind of constant circulation in the salt tank to prevent the water from spoiling? How do you guys do it?

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outy · 12/29/2017, 12:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fullonsound

do I have to have some kind of constant circulation in the salt tank to prevent the water from spoiling?

No absolutely not.

fullonsound · 12/29/2017, 12:57 AM

Do I need to worry about maintaining the temperature? Or should I just heat it up prior to adding to the tank.. currently the temp is 56 lol...

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soulpatch · 01/02/2018, 10:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fullonsound

Do I need to worry about maintaining the temperature? Or should I just heat it up prior to adding to the tank.. currently the temp is 56 lol...

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Depends on how much water you are changing. With my AWC I swap 7 gallons a day into roughly 160 gallons so I dont heat. When I am doing a large water change however I will heat up the water and use it all. Typicallyy I plan this so that my salt container is down to around 40 gallons and I will heat that and use it all in the water change. I do not heat water and then let it cool.

fullonsound · 01/02/2018, 11:38 AM

Ok thanks for the reply. I’ll try that and heat it when doing large water changes

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outy · 01/02/2018, 01:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fullonsound

Or should I just heat it up prior to adding to the tank.. currently the temp is 56 lol...

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Mine is colder lol and I heat up 100G a day before adding it

Naterade86 · 01/06/2018, 02:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lilbitreefer

This is my entry way closet. The hubby let me take it over. Hehehe and he did the plumbing, he’s not into fish so I guess he loves me.

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Nice set up

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coryjac0b · 01/07/2018, 10:11 AM

I plan on using some 55g olive barrels that I received for next to nothing for ro storage on an upcoming build. I can't seem to get them clean enough. There is always a sheen on top of the water after I fill them. Anyone have a recommendation to clean them?

Maggie321 · 01/07/2018, 10:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by coryjac0b

I plan on using some 55g olive barrels that I received for next to nothing for ro storage on an upcoming build. I can't seem to get them clean enough. There is always a sheen on top of the water after I fill them. Anyone have a recommendation to clean them?

Have you tried dawn dish soap and heavy rinsing?

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reefwiser · 01/07/2018, 10:28 AM

Vinegar or citric acid mean work.

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coryjac0b · 01/07/2018, 11:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Maggie321

Have you tried dawn dish soap and heavy rinsing?

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I have done a few iterations of dawn and heavy scrubbing and heavy rinsing.

I will try vinegar.

Devolver · 01/17/2018, 12:50 PM

I bet this question had been asked already but after days of reading I’m still unable to find an answer.

What is the recommended pump for a water change station? I’ve seen a bunch with panworld pumps but with today’s technology I’m wondering if there is a better option?

I will need a vertical head pressure of 8’ if that helps.

Thanks for the input

Vinny Kreyling · 01/17/2018, 12:58 PM

Really any pump with a flow rate you can live with above 8' will work.
I suggest nothing less than 3/4" diameter, 1" would be better.

Devolver · 01/17/2018, 02:17 PM

Are there any specific pumps you would recommend? I’m thinking a DC pump for efficiency...if such a pump would work in this application?

Sharpimage · 01/17/2018, 03:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Devolver

Are there any specific pumps you would recommend? I’m thinking a DC pump for efficiency...if such a pump would work in this application?

Mine runs so infrequently, I don't worry about efficiency. I used a pump I had lying around for mine.

meklo · 01/21/2018, 01:06 AM

Here is my setup. It isn't the prettiest, but it is very functional! It works really well for me.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/162297...posted-public/

meklo · 01/21/2018, 01:13 AM

Not sure why it isn't working.

meklo · 01/21/2018, 01:14 AM

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meklo · 01/21/2018, 01:15 AM

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Member No. 1 · 01/27/2018, 02:07 PM

One item on my "Upgrade Tank" To Do list was to upgrade my RO/DI system and increase my water supply storage tanks. I had (2) 44 gallon brutes and (2) 55 gallon drums, but I wanted to upgrade to all 55 gallon drums. Also redo the transfer system from my mixing barrel to my storage barrel.
So I upgraded my RO unit to a second RO membrane plumbed in series to increase my daily production from 75 gallons to 150 gallons. Now I know the values are probably lower, but you get my drift. Because of the second membrane, I needed to get a larger Booster Pump. So the Aquatec 8800 is replacing the 6800 I had. That is being used on the 3 stage Di to push water thru. See below. I also put in a Auto Flush valve. I run this in parallel to the manual flush valve. I installed a manual by-pass to bleed off the product that is high in TDS so it doesn't go into my RO water storage barrel. I use a Triple In Line TDS meter to determine when to close the by-pass an open the flow to the RO storage. One meter is on each product line coming out of each membrane, then the 3rd is on the product line of the 3 Stage DI.
I have well water which is high in Co2. This will burn thru DI resin like crazy. So I have to produce RO only water that goes into a 55 gallon drum which gets aerated to de-gas the Co2 before I pump it thru the 3 Stage DI. From there it then goes to either the make up water barrel or the salt mix barrel. Since I do AWC of 4 gallons a day, I can't be mixing salt in the same barrel that I draw the NSW for the daily changes from. So I mix in one barrel, then with a 3-way ball valve, divert the water to the holding barrel.
So here is the set up with added details.

RO Unit. Right to Left - 5 micron pre filter(filter is clean, plastic housing is stained) into the boosting pump, then thru 1 micron final filter, then thru a 1 micron carbon filter. The (2) 75 gallon/day membranes are plumbed in series. Waste from the first is plumbing to the inlet of the second. Then product water from both are sent to the RO barrel for de-gassing.

RO storage on the left which in turn get pumped thru the 3 stage DI to the salt mix barrel on the right or the fresh water make-up barrel (not shown).

Salt mixing pump and 3 way ball valve. This makes transfer to the holding barrel a snap! (Tank on right is a friends that is here only temporary. In other words, not my mess of wires!)

3 Stage DI. Since my well water is high in Co2, I de-gas before I pump it thru the resin. Left is Cation Resin, Middle is Anion, Right is mixed bed. BRS did a great video on why this is a good way to process the RO water.

Entire RO/DI Unit

mls228 · 02/09/2018, 12:12 PM

Here is mine. Modeled after others I found in this thread. Still a work in progress.

1” pipe and uniseals.
1.5” half union valves from Lowe’s. They were $9 per and have nice big handles on them. I just used adapters on each end.

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HarlequinTusk · 02/09/2018, 02:09 PM

I'm still building my new saltwater mixing station. I purchased two 65G tanks from Norwesco. I wanted to keep them off the ground by at least 8" since this is in my basement and there's always the potential to get a few inches of water if the sump or electric fails. I needed something that would easily hold well over 1100 pounds based on the fact that 130gals weighs that much. After some intensive googling, I ran across something called a "dunnage rack". They are used by restaurants to stack heavy bulk items (such as large bags of flour) off the floor. This is the one I bought: https://www.webstaurantstore.com/adv...09DUN2460.html

If anyone is looking to buy a rack instead of making one from wood, you should consider dunnage racks.

01/07/2018, 10:28 AM	#1788
reefwiser Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2013 Location: Louisville,Kentucky Posts: 1,208	Vinegar or citric acid mean work. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro __________________ President Louisville Marine Aquarium Society. http://www.lmas.org/ The 3rd Annual Frag swap will be held September 23rd,2017 11 am till 3pm Saint Thomas Fellowship hall,9616 Westport Road,Louisvi

01/17/2018, 12:58 PM	#1791
Vinny Kreyling Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Miller Place, NY Posts: 7,206	Really any pump with a flow rate you can live with above 8' will work. I suggest nothing less than 3/4" diameter, 1" would be better. __________________ 250 gallon mixed reef, 2 Reefbreeder's Photon V 2, Deepwater BLDC 12, DAS EX-3 Skimmer, MTC mini cal, 2-3/4" Sea Swirls, Aquacontroller & 6 Tunze pumps.

01/21/2018, 01:06 AM	#1794
meklo Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Juneau, Alaska Posts: 55	Here is my setup. It isn't the prettiest, but it is very functional! It works really well for me. https://www.flickr.com/photos/162297...posted-public/ __________________ My build thread: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2651029 Current Tank Info: 180g GlassCages tank. 90 gallon sump with RO 10" SS skimmer and VarioS 6 return. Hamilton Cebu Sun 250w fixture

01/21/2018, 01:13 AM	#1795
meklo Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Juneau, Alaska Posts: 55	Not sure why it isn't working. __________________ My build thread: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2651029 Current Tank Info: 180g GlassCages tank. 90 gallon sump with RO 10" SS skimmer and VarioS 6 return. Hamilton Cebu Sun 250w fixture

01/21/2018, 01:14 AM	#1796
meklo Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Juneau, Alaska Posts: 55	******** async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"> __________________ My build thread: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2651029 Current Tank Info: 180g GlassCages tank. 90 gallon sump with RO 10" SS skimmer and VarioS 6 return. Hamilton Cebu Sun 250w fixture

12/24/2017, 02:00 PM	#1777
Joel_155 Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2011 Posts: 1,402	Following. Planning on building one out of two 55 gallon drums Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

12/24/2017, 02:10 PM	#1778
Joel_155 Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2011 Posts: 1,402	So my layout I'm hoping will be ideal. The tank is going on one side of the wall and the mix station will be on the other side in the garage. I plan on having one for RO storage and one for saltwater. On the plumbing I want a fill line that I can run to the tank and use for easy water changes. Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

12/29/2017, 12:42 AM	#1779
fullonsound Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2013 Posts: 69	So I have a newbie question. I have two 55gal drums plumbed together with a pump and my RODI unit overhead.. I have a heater and temp probe in the salt water barrel and the other barrel is for just RODI water.. do I have to have some kind of constant circulation in the salt tank to prevent the water from spoiling? How do you guys do it? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

12/29/2017, 12:57 AM	#1781
fullonsound Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2013 Posts: 69	Do I need to worry about maintaining the temperature? Or should I just heat it up prior to adding to the tank.. currently the temp is 56 lol... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

01/02/2018, 11:38 AM	#1783
fullonsound Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2013 Posts: 69	Ok thanks for the reply. I’ll try that and heat it when doing large water changes Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

01/07/2018, 10:11 AM	#1786
coryjac0b Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Metairie, LA Posts: 823	I plan on using some 55g olive barrels that I received for next to nothing for ro storage on an upcoming build. I can't seem to get them clean enough. There is always a sheen on top of the water after I fill them. Anyone have a recommendation to clean them?

01/17/2018, 12:50 PM	#1790
Devolver Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2016 Posts: 137	I bet this question had been asked already but after days of reading I’m still unable to find an answer. What is the recommended pump for a water change station? I’ve seen a bunch with panworld pumps but with today’s technology I’m wondering if there is a better option? I will need a vertical head pressure of 8’ if that helps. Thanks for the input

01/17/2018, 02:17 PM	#1792
Devolver Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2016 Posts: 137	Are there any specific pumps you would recommend? I’m thinking a DC pump for efficiency...if such a pump would work in this application?

01/21/2018, 01:15 AM	#1797
meklo Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Juneau, Alaska Posts: 55	******** async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"> __________________ My build thread: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2651029 Current Tank Info: 180g GlassCages tank. 90 gallon sump with RO 10" SS skimmer and VarioS 6 return. Hamilton Cebu Sun 250w fixture

01/27/2018, 02:07 PM	#1798
Member No. 1 Ver. 2.1 Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Rehoboth, MA Posts: 1,803	One item on my "Upgrade Tank" To Do list was to upgrade my RO/DI system and increase my water supply storage tanks. I had (2) 44 gallon brutes and (2) 55 gallon drums, but I wanted to upgrade to all 55 gallon drums. Also redo the transfer system from my mixing barrel to my storage barrel. So I upgraded my RO unit to a second RO membrane plumbed in series to increase my daily production from 75 gallons to 150 gallons. Now I know the values are probably lower, but you get my drift. Because of the second membrane, I needed to get a larger Booster Pump. So the Aquatec 8800 is replacing the 6800 I had. That is being used on the 3 stage Di to push water thru. See below. I also put in a Auto Flush valve. I run this in parallel to the manual flush valve. I installed a manual by-pass to bleed off the product that is high in TDS so it doesn't go into my RO water storage barrel. I use a Triple In Line TDS meter to determine when to close the by-pass an open the flow to the RO storage. One meter is on each product line coming out of each membrane, then the 3rd is on the product line of the 3 Stage DI. I have well water which is high in Co2. This will burn thru DI resin like crazy. So I have to produce RO only water that goes into a 55 gallon drum which gets aerated to de-gas the Co2 before I pump it thru the 3 Stage DI. From there it then goes to either the make up water barrel or the salt mix barrel. Since I do AWC of 4 gallons a day, I can't be mixing salt in the same barrel that I draw the NSW for the daily changes from. So I mix in one barrel, then with a 3-way ball valve, divert the water to the holding barrel. So here is the set up with added details. RO Unit. Right to Left - 5 micron pre filter(filter is clean, plastic housing is stained) into the boosting pump, then thru 1 micron final filter, then thru a 1 micron carbon filter. The (2) 75 gallon/day membranes are plumbed in series. Waste from the first is plumbing to the inlet of the second. Then product water from both are sent to the RO barrel for de-gassing. RO storage on the left which in turn get pumped thru the 3 stage DI to the salt mix barrel on the right or the fresh water make-up barrel (not shown). Salt mixing pump and 3 way ball valve. This makes transfer to the holding barrel a snap! (Tank on right is a friends that is here only temporary. In other words, not my mess of wires!) 3 Stage DI. Since my well water is high in Co2, I de-gas before I pump it thru the resin. Left is Cation Resin, Middle is Anion, Right is mixed bed. BRS did a great video on why this is a good way to process the RO water. Entire RO/DI Unit __________________ Pete "I never make mistakes... I thought I did once, but I was wrong" Current Tank Info: In the process - http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2661614

02/09/2018, 12:12 PM	#1799
mls228 Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Berks County, PA Posts: 77	Salt Water Mixing Stations Let's See Them Here is mine. Modeled after others I found in this thread. Still a work in progress. 1” pipe and uniseals. 1.5” half union valves from Lowe’s. They were $9 per and have nice big handles on them. I just used adapters on each end. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

02/09/2018, 02:09 PM	#1800
HarlequinTusk Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Niagara Falls, NY Posts: 117	I'm still building my new saltwater mixing station. I purchased two 65G tanks from Norwesco. I wanted to keep them off the ground by at least 8" since this is in my basement and there's always the potential to get a few inches of water if the sump or electric fails. I needed something that would easily hold well over 1100 pounds based on the fact that 130gals weighs that much. After some intensive googling, I ran across something called a "dunnage rack". They are used by restaurants to stack heavy bulk items (such as large bags of flour) off the floor. This is the one I bought: https://www.webstaurantstore.com/adv...09DUN2460.html If anyone is looking to buy a rack instead of making one from wood, you should consider dunnage racks.