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07/21/2012, 01:07 AM
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#1076 |
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Registered Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Keighley West Yorkshire
Posts: 101
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Very nice very nice indeed
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07/24/2012, 01:30 PM
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#1077 |
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Registered Member
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 261
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I followed this thread last year and have successfully build 4 sets of LED fixtures with parts from Rapid LED.......thanks again for the great info Katchupoy!
From another thread regarding DIY LED: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh...&highlight=led kcress mentioned in the first post to add a 1A quick blow fuse to the positive wire that powers the LEDs. In case one of the LED burns out in the string, the LEDs in the string closer to the driver won't overpower the LEDs and burn them out. Katchupoy's diagram on page 25 uses a resistor. Would this work the same as adding a resistor? I'm about to build another 5 sets, so I am wondering if I need to modify my wiring and add a fuse to each.
__________________
150G reef: SPS dominant (4 sets of DIY LED fixtures; with 36 CREE on each) 40G frag tank @ 2: (2 sets of DIY LED fixtures on each) 8G freshwater shrimp tank; 20G and 40G planted tanks |
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07/24/2012, 03:54 PM
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#1078 | |
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Moved On
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Kent, WA
Posts: 1,548
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Quote:
With those video you posted. How long have you been using the LEDs on your tank? Thanks. |
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07/24/2012, 04:04 PM
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#1079 | |
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Moved On
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Kent, WA
Posts: 1,548
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Quote:
The slow blow is needed when you are doing parallel. Meaning maybe 2 sets of 12 in one driver. 1 set = to 12 LEDs in series. The resistor in my diagram, is only needed when you want to check once in a while the current you are using for your string. Remember, at first we used it to setup the SVR2 so we dont over current our string. Now several months later, if you want to check it again you just use your volt meter and check it. But if you think you will not do this process again, you can remove the resistor. It really goes very hot when in use. Remember : if you decide to remove it, then make sure everything is unplugged from the power outlet. Hope this helps. |
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07/29/2012, 09:04 PM
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#1080 |
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Registered Member
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Torrace, SoCal, CA
Posts: 253
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Or build in a shunt ... which would be pretty cool.
Undo the shunt to measure. Not sure how much an IDC header will take, but that would be really handy. You could solder up a pigtail for measurement. == John == |
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09/24/2012, 01:52 AM
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#1081 |
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Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 36
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Hi Cesar and All,
Hope you are doing good ! been a long time that i bugged you... was busy with work and could not prgress with my build. I have my LED's with me now and also have the heat sink. I ma planning to kick start my led build... I had a question in mind .. my heat sink has a lot of scratches and its not very clean.. I was thinking if it would be good to anodize the aluminium heatsink Is it advisable to anodize the heatsinks ? Regards, SWF |
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09/26/2012, 05:07 PM
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#1082 | |
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Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: SE Suburbia Wisconsin
Posts: 2,910
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Quote:
__________________
Dennis B. Current Tank Info: Main tank 120 Gallon, 432 Watts T-5's plus 30 Watts of LED's, Frag 40 Gallon tank 234 Watts T-5's, 3 Frag tanks all 40 Gallon with LED lighting between 60 and 84 Watts. All LEDs are DIY Oh and then there is fresh water tanks 270 gallons |
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09/26/2012, 11:55 PM
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#1083 |
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Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 36
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Hi Dennis,
Thank you for your response. I will make sure the heat sinks and cleaned before it gets anodized. Regards, SWF. |
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10/19/2015, 10:02 AM
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#1084 |
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Registered Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 6
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Interesting, this one doesnt have any branding at all. How do I know Im getting the real one?
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