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Unread 01/24/2016, 07:53 PM   #51
geekengineer
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very cool! I like to setup a scribbling setup like that when I would get to it who knows lol.


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Come back from the dead. Not sure what I'm doing at this time.. have a 30 Gallon DT and 20 Sump sitting in mothballs.

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Unread 01/24/2016, 08:32 PM   #52
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A few updates from this weekend. I have been working on finishing up plumbing the overflows and what not back to the sump, and getting some of the cable management infrastructure installed in the stand.

For cable management I modeled up some simple hangers to give me something to support runs of wire across the sump side of the stand (the STL can be downloaded from here). They are sized large enough that they should be able to hold a number of cables and the fat end on the hook will hopefully help hold the cables in place. I threw a hole through the end of the hook just incase I need a good spot for a zip tie to deal with any stubborn cables down the road.

Here is a set of hangers fresh off the printer. I did ten, but only ended up using seven to cross the sump side of the stand. You can see them installed in one of the shots further down this post.


On the enclosed side of the stand adjacent to where the equipment panel is I mounted a section of wire shelf to hold excess cables and power supplies up and out of the way (thanks to karimwassef's post the other week for the idea). The shelf is mounted in the back with a couple screws and fender washers. In the front, I didn't have a simple hardware solution ready to go. So I modeled up a mount that slides over the two thicker lateral rods on the shelf and then has holes for screws (the STL for it can be downloaded from here).


On the sump side of things I have just about got my filter sock/rubble chamber done. I posted a few pics of the glass going together awhile back. Now I have gotten around to getting it "drilled" and in place. All that is left is to make the corian plate for the filter socks.

Here is the box in place and empty to help give an idea of how flow will go through it.


The tools used to "drill" it; Dremel, diamond bit and a spray bottle.


I'm sure lots of folks around here use this method for "drilling" tanks. But for those that don't, here is short video showing it in process. I prefer this method over using a diamond hole saw, as its easier to keep the water where is needs to be (between capillary action and surface tension it stays right in the slot being cut, note that in the video the water filled slot goes right through the glass) and there is less risk of cracking things when finishing up the hole.


Here is a shot of the sump as it is now with all the overflow piping running into it. The two that come through the filter sock/rubble box are the primary overflow lines. The two in the back center are intended to handle the surge when it goes. The final one that ends with a 90 degree elbow at the bottom is the overflow back from the surge reservoir.



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Unread 01/25/2016, 08:36 PM   #53
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So not exactly reef related, but tank cleaning for these guys and gals was why I didn't make any progress on the build tonight. Plus I thought you guys might be interested to see the other tank that resides in the tank room.

The original trio of these little guys were the by product of an inter-species tadpole competition study that was going on as I finished up graduate school. I believe the froglets came to me somewhere around nine years ago. Right now there are four in the group. Here is one of them: Dendrobates imitator (though I think there has been some reclassification and that name may have changed).


Here is a shot of part of the tank. Its a 55 gallon. If you look close there is one visible in the shot, though it is hard to see. They are quite small; two would fit on my thumbnail.



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Unread 02/03/2016, 08:21 PM   #54
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Updates and progress have been slow to come. I spent tank time this weekend working on parts for my surge valves; assembling and vapor polishing printed parts. No photos of these for now, as I would like to post the complete valve build at once. So we will just have to wait on that.

The other thing I did over the weekend was clean up a few bugs in my light controller code and validate the performance. I have another thread with the build and files for the controller (here's the link). All links in it are the most current versions, including the code. But I'll throw my test data up here as it seems as good of place as any.

I took a PAR sensor and datalogger and got some measurements from my setup. Treat these as qualitative; they were not made with any rhyme or reason to the sensor placement and there was no controlling for ambient light in the room. I hope to find some time in the near future to measure spectral distribution and light uniformity from the fixtures. But it hasn't happened yet.

In any case here is a diel curve of PPFD from running the lights on Sunday. The x-axis is in minutes from start of logging as I neglected to check to see that the logger clock was set to local time before starting measurements (rookie mistake). In any case it paints a pretty clear picture of how the dimming performs.


There are two step changes in intensity at the start and end of the curve. At the start, these correspond to the blue LEDs coming on and then the white. At the end its the reverse. These appear to represent the minimum on intensity using the default MarsAqua drivers; using my dimming circuit and the default pot-dimmer I get the same minimum. So no room for improvements there without putting different drivers in the fixture and that is out of scope for now.

Here is the test setup for those that are interest (I didn't hold the logger all day, just for the pic). You can see the sensor in the background sitting on the rock work. Its roughly in the middle of the tank vertically and off center of the LED fixture.



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Unread 02/04/2016, 07:34 AM   #55
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Very, very cool


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Unread 02/04/2016, 07:53 AM   #56
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You're operating on a different level man. This is a joy to follow.


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Unread 02/04/2016, 08:11 AM   #57
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I don't have anything particularly insightful to add but the level of DIY, attention to detail and quality of your end products are great. Keep up the good work and I'm sure I speak for a lot of people...can't wait to see the end result!


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Unread 02/04/2016, 05:27 PM   #58
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Thanks for the kind words folks. I am glad that my tinkering around is appreciated.

I have a question for those watching this thread though; I have not picked my heaters yet and am looking at options. Seems there is a wide range in prices for what on the surface appear to be comparable devices. So I'm curious what other's experiences are; Is there a brand or model that is known to be reliable? One that is known to be particularly prone to failure?

Data or documentation to back up any claims would be appreciated. But I know that is a tall order for consumer items like this (otherwise I probably would have already picked something).

Keep in mind that I am using a standalone controller and looking to run a pair of relatively undersized heaters.


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Unread 02/05/2016, 08:47 AM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jrhupp View Post
Thanks for the kind words folks. I am glad that my tinkering around is appreciated.

I have a question for those watching this thread though; I have not picked my heaters yet and am looking at options. Seems there is a wide range in prices for what on the surface appear to be comparable devices. So I'm curious what other's experiences are; Is there a brand or model that is known to be reliable? One that is known to be particularly prone to failure?

Data or documentation to back up any claims would be appreciated. But I know that is a tall order for consumer items like this (otherwise I probably would have already picked something).

Keep in mind that I am using a standalone controller and looking to run a pair of relatively undersized heaters.

For my 180, I purchased the Catalina 800w titanium heater with controller as it was recommended by a local aquarium maintenance/builder company that uses it regularly in their systems. The controller isn't perfect (off by a degree or two regularly from the temp monitor), however the heater itself seems to do a great job.
It can be purchased without the controller from amazon at a fairly good price.
http://www.amazon.com/Catalina-Watt-.../dp/B004QIRX3E


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Unread 02/10/2016, 06:48 AM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LukeGI View Post
For my 180, I purchased the Catalina 800w titanium heater with controller as it was recommended by a local aquarium maintenance/builder company that uses it regularly in their systems. The controller isn't perfect (off by a degree or two regularly from the temp monitor), however the heater itself seems to do a great job.
It can be purchased without the controller from amazon at a fairly good price.
http://www.amazon.com/Catalina-Watt-.../dp/B004QIRX3E
Thanks for the heater recommendation. I have been looking into these and they do seem quite nice. I’m not sure I will go with them at this point though as I would like some inherent redundancy in the system; They rely on an outside controller and while that is no problem in and to itself as I am using one, I like the idea of an embedded thermostat in the heater as a secondary fail safe should my controller have some issue. The idea of a titanium case over glass is supper attractive though. Not sure what I will do yet.

For up dates there was not much progress on the actual build this past weekend. I was traveling the week before and am out again this week. So my opportunity to physically work on hardware has been limited.

I did manage to print a final version of one of the larger parts of the surge valve (its a 9 hour print) and a few sub-sections of another part to validate the geometry is correct. I had to rework a few small details and add a bit more rigidity to the motor mount. But I think all is good to go know and I will be ready to start printing all the parts in full force this weekend.

I also got my emergency lines in place. Both the sump and surge tank sit in water tight “pans” with a drain in them. These are hard plumbed now together and through the wall to the unfinished part of the basement where the floor drain is. Its 1/2” thin wall PVC so it won’t move a ton of water, but it should handle an ATO malfunction or any spills without a problem.

I have been waiting on a Mouser order that should be delivered today. So my next updates should be pretty exciting. If all goes well I’ll have a functional eight port serial switch to share and maybe some details on the start of my ATO design. I am thinking at the moment that I want to build a multi-level water level sensor based on Hall-effect sensors and I have some parts coming to validate wether this will work as desired.

There are few outstanding issues that I need to address in the near future to get the system cycling but I don’t think I’m that far from putting water in the system. Hopefully I will find some time this week to select some of the remaining components and get them ordered.


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Unread 02/10/2016, 07:10 AM   #61
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Just so you are aware, they make a version with a controller...this is exactly what I have, though this particular source is showing out of stock. It seems to fluctuate as to when I see it available on amazon.
http://www.amazon.com/Catalina-Titan...85K44PPSWR6EYZ


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Unread 02/16/2016, 09:18 PM   #62
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A little progress to share...

I have a functional switch for handling power and communications on my serial network! Its nothing complex; five parts not including the mini pro or RJ45 receptacles. But I am pretty excited to get it operational as it is a key component in my overall control system design.

Here are the files:
Eagle files for schematic and board
SketchUp model of printed parts
Arduino sketch

And here are a few pics of it:
Front on shot. There are eight ports for modules (slaves) and the odd port out is for the main controller or from another switch (master).


One side...


and the other.


After playing with it while getting it up and operational I think it would worth revisiting its design down the road. I don't think anything is a show stopper at the moment, but I have identified few features that would improve the design:

- Right now I include a reset line on the ports. Reset is tied together for all ports and pulling it to ground resets every connected to the switch. I am thinking it may be nice to separate the reset lines and implement a port specific reset function.

- I wish I had added a set of screw terminals to provide DC power to the network. Right now the design has power coming into the switch from the master port and being passed out to the slave ports. This fits with the overall design paradigm. But I worry this may prove to be problematic down the road; I am using CAT5e cable with three conductors for ground and two for +12VDC. It would be nice to have been able to wire the main supply into the network with something heavier gauge.

- There are a few software features that may need to be worked out as I get some devices on the network up and running and talking with the controller. I have a few concerns about long messages and some thoughts on addressing. But these will have to wait until I have a more complex system to test with and are why I am calling the sketch 1.0_beta.

Of other items to note, I selected the main +12VDC supply for the system and it arrived on Saturday. I went with a MeanWell MDR-60-12. For power versus price in a DIN rail mount package it looked like a good choice.


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Unread 03/12/2016, 03:17 AM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jrhupp View Post
Updates and progress have been slow to come. I spent tank time this weekend working on parts for my surge valves; assembling and vapor polishing printed parts. No photos of these for now, as I would like to post the complete valve build at once. So we will just have to wait on that.

The other thing I did over the weekend was clean up a few bugs in my light controller code and validate the performance. I have another thread with the build and files for the controller (here's the link). All links in it are the most current versions, including the code. But I'll throw my test data up here as it seems as good of place as any.

I took a PAR sensor and datalogger and got some measurements from my setup. Treat these as qualitative; they were not made with any rhyme or reason to the sensor placement and there was no controlling for ambient light in the room. I hope to find some time in the near future to measure spectral distribution and light uniformity from the fixtures. But it hasn't happened yet.

In any case here is a diel curve of PPFD from running the lights on Sunday. The x-axis is in minutes from start of logging as I neglected to check to see that the logger clock was set to local time before starting measurements (rookie mistake). In any case it paints a pretty clear picture of how the dimming performs.


There are two step changes in intensity at the start and end of the curve. At the start, these correspond to the blue LEDs coming on and then the white. At the end its the reverse. These appear to represent the minimum on intensity using the default MarsAqua drivers; using my dimming circuit and the default pot-dimmer I get the same minimum. So no room for improvements there without putting different drivers in the fixture and that is out of scope for now.

Here is the test setup for those that are interest (I didn't hold the logger all day, just for the pic). You can see the sensor in the background sitting on the rock work. Its roughly in the middle of the tank vertically and off center of the LED fixture.
I don't suppose you also mapped to driver output voltage at the same time? Also which model Mars aqua and how far from the sensor?

Thanks in advance.


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Unread 03/12/2016, 03:27 AM   #64
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Fancy meter, cheap light


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Unread 03/12/2016, 09:05 PM   #65
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Quote:
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Fancy meter, cheap light
Yep on both accounts. But I only had to buy one of the two.


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Unread 03/12/2016, 09:12 PM   #66
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If anybody is wondering, I am still working on the build but hit a bit of set back. I hope to post more updates soon. But in the meantime, the short of it is that the original tank was deemed "high risk" upon the test fill and was replaced. The new tank got here two days ago and I have been working to get it plumbed in and ready to fill. Filling will have to wait until next weekend though.


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Unread 03/12/2016, 09:19 PM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OllieNZ View Post
I don't suppose you also mapped to driver output voltage at the same time? Also which model Mars aqua and how far from the sensor?

Thanks in advance.
I did not map to voltage. I had considered it, but was not setup to do it at the time I did this. And I suppose for me I am not particularly concerned over voltage given what the output light intensity showed over the course of the day.

As to distance, it was maybe 18 inches from the light to the sensor.

These are the 300 Watt fixtures.


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Unread 03/13/2016, 01:11 AM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jrhupp View Post
I did not map to voltage. I had considered it, but was not setup to do it at the time I did this. And I suppose for me I am not particularly concerned over voltage given what the output light intensity showed over the course of the day.

As to distance, it was maybe 18 inches from the light to the sensor.

These are the 300 Watt fixtures.
Unfortunately I don't have a par meter so I've been trying to use data sheets etc to try and get an idea of what the light output is like and from what I can find it seems to increase in a linear manner with the fV across the led.


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Unread 03/13/2016, 07:18 AM   #69
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Here is the rock work. The tank will be mostly softies and LPS, and lightly stocked (I travel a lot for work, so I'm going for large water volume, light bio-load and the inherent "stability" that comes with that). I want a minimalist scape that is a bit different, and think this hits it quite well.




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Unread 03/15/2016, 07:49 PM   #70
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Some updates:

I started filling the tank a few weeks ago. All looked good until I got it all the way full, at which point hundreds of tiny bubbles started appearing in the seams that hold the front panel on. I drained the tank immediately and contacted the manufacture (quite good customer support). They replaced the tank. As of last Thursday I have the new tank and its all plumbed up ready to go. A bit disappointing to have issues with the first tank. But I think all will be OK in the end.

I hope this weekend to begin the filling process again and have the tank starting to cycle by the end of next week. We will see how that goes.

For those interested, when it came time to remove the previous tank I couldn’t get the bulkheads loose by hand. So I modeled up and printed a simple wrench. This fits a 1” bulkhead. If you want it, the STL can be downloaded from here: bulkhead wrench



My AC/DC supply arrived a bit ago and I started to get the control panel all wired up. In the pic below there is just an adapter cable between the 12VDC supply and the master port on the serial switch as I was tested things as I went.




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Unread 03/15/2016, 08:26 PM   #71
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I have been plugging away on the ball valves but haven’t gotten them finished yet. I was originally waiting to post them until they were complete, but I have some time at the moment. So I will go ahead and post what I have.

I posted this a while back, but as refresher here is a pic of the model for the valve.


Here are the two halves of the ball. One is shown fresh off the printer with the skirt still attached (bottom) and the other has the skirt removed and the “drive shaft” (3/8” SS bolt) set in place. Once assembled there is no metal in contact with the water.



Here is the pair glued up and in the clamps. The halves are solvent welded together using strait acetone.



Once out of the clamps, they were sanded more or less smooth. Then they were brushed with a light coat of acetone prior to vapor polishing. I vapor polish using a glass container that sets on the hot bed of my printer. It gets a few mills of acetone in the bottom and then I crank up the hot bed to 110C. Once condensate forms near the top of the container in go the parts to be polished. The end product has a glossy smooth and solid surface.



Here are a pair of the valve bodies fresh off the printer.



And the same flipped over. These print with a single support up the middle (tube in the center) to support the flange that holds one of the seals in place.



Here they are with the print support removed.



There is a place on the top and bottom of the valve where an o-ring sealed shaft goes through the body. The hole for these prints with the grain of the print almost perpendicular to the direction of outward force caused by the o-ring. With printed parts this is a recipe for disaster as the print will want to split along the grain. So I print the hole larger then needed to accommodate the o-ring and print a second piece that inserts in to it and brings the hole to something a little smaller than needed (it will be machined to the correct size later). The insert is printed solid and gets glued in place using a slurry of acetone and ABS. The end result is that the two printed parts are glued together with their grain roughly perpendicular to each other. This makes for a very strong part.

Here are two halves of the body and one of the inserts. On one half the insert is glued in place. The other half is as printed.



Here are the large drive gears as they are now. They still need a shaft spacer and its associated o-rings attached to them. The one on top in the image shows the top side with a nut pressed in place. The one on the bottom shows the positioning magnet pressed in place. The magnet is over kill for the application but it was the most reasonable option available locally. The valve uses a hall effect sensor to detect a predetermined home position. This means it can tell where the open and closed positions are, and on a power cycle it will always return to the closed position (default).




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Unread 03/15/2016, 08:33 PM   #72
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Very impressive, especially the vapor polishing step.


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Unread 03/15/2016, 09:19 PM   #73
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I simply have to buy a 3d printer now.. I have wanted one for so long and now, after seeing the levels of craftsmanship you're putting out with it, it's simply a must


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Unread 03/16/2016, 07:39 AM   #74
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Quote:
Very impressive, especially the vapor polishing step.
Thanks

Quote:
I simply have to buy a 3d printer now.. I have wanted one for so long and now, after seeing the levels of craftsmanship you're putting out with it, it's simply a must
Do it!


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Unread 03/16/2016, 02:08 PM   #75
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I'm also in for a 3D printer, this is absolutely incredible!


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