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Old 08/29/2017, 07:37 PM   #4426
Vdubin00
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Livingjewels View Post
The picture s where you first have it stirred up seems to look like it, however the one showing it slumped on the bottom says something else to me.



When I did this with mine the Dino seemed to remain in suspension; some would drop to the floor but not that much.



My new set up had a mix of orange sand like Dino / diatoms, but also had the odd membrane of cyano in places..



I tried a product called clean M by continuum and bacter M together and within a day or two it was significantly cleaner..



A week or so and the tank was spotless..



Like I've said the 1st Dino I had was very resilient and wouldn't go, the 2nd time i managed to clear it up, you may have a mix of stuff their form what I gather from the photos.. £30 it is worth a try..


Hey thank you for your advice I'm going to try those 2 products ,, I found the clean M stuff,, the other however I can't seem to find, did you mean this stuff ? Continuum bacter gen-m



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Old 09/23/2017, 07:58 PM   #4427
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So I've been thinking about the reasons dinos kill algae scrubbers and then make it hard for them to get started again...

In nature, algae is able to win... so it is a capable competitor.

I think that we need to create an environment where algae has a supreme advantage over dinos & all other life...

This is for those situations where the tank is effectively dead or almost dead - so kill or cure

What if we turn off all light except on the scrubber. The algae scrubber's flow is basically air-exposed with tremendous flow. In that situation, the dinos should have a very hard time attaching since the water depth is effectively a few mms. Dinos can't survive in air.

So, the algae would have the complete upper hand with nutrients, light, air exposure and high flow. The dinos being heterotrophic would consumed dying material but can't use photosynthesis... at some point, the algae will have enough nutrients to get started...


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Old 09/24/2017, 12:11 AM   #4428
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That might work, although it would stress any corals with photosynthetic symbionts. I'm not sure that you could keep the tanks lights out long enough to make much of a difference, as compared to just shutting off the lights altogether, the way many people do.


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Old 09/24/2017, 01:11 AM   #4429
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This would be the alternative to giving up and tearing the tank down


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Old 09/24/2017, 01:39 PM   #4430
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vdubin00 View Post
Hey thank you for your advice I'm going to try those 2 products ,, I found the clean M stuff,, the other however I can't seem to find, did you mean this stuff ? Continuum bacter gen-m



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Yes thatís the product I used, the other is a similar bottle, just says bacter M on instead..

Let me know how you get on,


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Old 09/24/2017, 01:40 PM   #4431
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vdubin00 View Post
Hey thank you for your advice I'm going to try those 2 products ,, I found the clean M stuff,, the other however I can't seem to find, did you mean this stuff ? Continuum bacter gen-m



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Yes thatís the product I used, the other is a similar bottle, just says bacter clean M on instead..

Let me know how you get on,


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Old 09/24/2017, 05:00 PM   #4432
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If anyone is considering a tear down would consider the scrubber-only, please share your feedback.


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Failure isn't an option It's a requirement. 660g 380inwall+280smp/surge S/L/Soft/Maxima/RBTA/Clown/Chromis/Anthias/Tang/Mandarin/Jawfish/Goby/Wrasse/D'back. DIY 12' Skimmer ActuatedSurge ConcreteScape
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Old 09/24/2017, 11:27 PM   #4433
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Well, if the alternative is tearing the tank down, I'd give the scrubber-only approach a shot.


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Old 09/25/2017, 01:01 PM   #4434
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Well guys I chose to use Dino x , cause that's what my LFS had, I gave that a shot along with a 5 day 4 night black out period, and things seem to be gone ! Only a lil bit of white stringy things on the rocks ! So far so good, I probs just jinxed it tho =\


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Old 10/17/2017, 06:09 PM   #4435
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I'm curious about Dino X. Instructions say to keep lights on but all of success stories have been with lights out. What is that about? Just curious.


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Old 11/03/2017, 11:23 PM   #4436
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I have used dino-x and only turned on the LEDS on my ATI hybrid PM 8 bulb. I think I dosed it 3-4 times and with every dose, the tank was crystal clear with no carbon or UV online. It killed off the dinos. Dosing hydrogen peroxide gave me crystal clear water also so I'm guessing dino-x might have some hydrogen peroxide in it. Dinos was gone for several weeks but I think I reintroduced it to the tank when I put a acclimation box back into the tank that I only hosed down. I'm going to dose dino-x again if it gets out of control again. I'll also be bleaching my fish trap and acclimation box to stop reintroduction of dinos.

EDIT: Forgot to mention, I lost a few SPS frags but I attribute those losses to the dinos itself. Those frags were being smothered by the dinos for weeks and blowing off the dinos when I get home from work every hour was not helping those frags. All lps and fish were unaffected. There was a nutrient spike after the dinos die off so suggest doing a massive water change once you see the dinos gone. It turned all my SPS brown from the nutrient spike.


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Old 11/05/2017, 02:42 AM   #4437
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This post is here for those that already have or will be following my lead.

I've not been able to find any dinos now for months. I expected the tank to take time to bounce back and have been doing tests with small samples of corals from the last post. The first two samples of Montipora and Acropora corals melted away quickly so I got a number of general samples from nature since the microfauna was still not at it's best and continued to dilute the lingering toxins with regular water changes.

Now I'm at the third sample and it's doing much better than the previous one. For the first time in years I have corals that are growing at full speed. The tank is good now for montipora and almost there for acropora.



Last edited by DNA; 11/05/2017 at 02:52 AM.
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Old 11/05/2017, 07:30 AM   #4438
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Congrats DNA


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Failure isn't an option It's a requirement. 660g 380inwall+280smp/surge S/L/Soft/Maxima/RBTA/Clown/Chromis/Anthias/Tang/Mandarin/Jawfish/Goby/Wrasse/D'back. DIY 12' Skimmer ActuatedSurge ConcreteScape
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Old 11/06/2017, 01:27 PM   #4439
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That's very good news! That took a long time to fix, though.


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Old 01/20/2018, 09:31 PM   #4440
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Hello. I am having trouble identifying this nuisance. I have a Red Sea Max 250 retrofit with Steveís LEDs. It has been up for around 2.5 months. There is chemiclean present. I am only running Blue/Violet light right now, except for when taking the following pictures. pH is 8.3, salinity is 1.025, alkalinity is 8 and ammonia is 0ppm. I do not know whether or not these are Dinos but I do suspect it is. I have had no clean up crew fatalities to speak of. Can you guys lend me your opinion please?

Front of tank for reference.


Sand bed.



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Old 01/20/2018, 09:40 PM   #4441
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Red rock.


Red Rock pic 2.


Slime on snail shell.


Slime and bubbles on new wavemaker installed 6 hours ago.


Sand bed near torch coral. Lights were off until I turned them on for photos, which is why heís kinda sucked in.



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Old 01/20/2018, 09:52 PM   #4442
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Please give me your input on whether these are dinos. The wavemaker was installed 6 hours ago. IMG_9904.jpg IMG_9910.jpg


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Old 01/21/2018, 12:14 PM   #4443
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Are these pictures showing dinoflagellates?

CLJ94104:

The picture of the rock does look like dinoflagellates. To be sure, you might want to go ahead and treat the tank for cyanobacteria. I prefer using chemiclean and you can even use it at less than full strength with good results in a reef tank. I have used it at half the normal dosage but in this case I would use 75% the normal dosage for 1 week, then hit the protein skimmer to get it all out. Make sure you treat the tank with the UV and skimmer off for 1 week. After a few days, a strong skimmer should have removed most of the chemiclean. It really makes the skimmer foam up when you first turn it back on so your skimmer will overflow if not dialed back down.

Also I have a friend who had rock very similar in appearance to yours in his 600 gallon reef. He went out and bought a bunch of turbo snails. He bought various kinds and they really did the trick in mowing the stuff down.

Good luck!


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Old 01/21/2018, 05:22 PM   #4444
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I agree that you might be seeing dinoflagellates. What have you tried so far to get rid of them?


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Old 01/21/2018, 11:02 PM   #4445
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I havenít tried anything other than running blue/violet lights only. I have Dino X but am unsure of the product. Never used it. Should I give it a go? Iíve calculated the proper dosage.


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Old 01/22/2018, 05:56 PM   #4446
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I'd give it a shot, although I'd try to siphon out any large mass of dinoflagellates I could reach, and I'd add some fresh carbon. Dying dinoflagellates might release toxins. I don't remember any horror stories, but I would be cautious.


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Old 01/24/2018, 07:04 PM   #4447
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Contacted a LFS to see if they had Dino X and of course they didn't. The owner recommended I try https://www.payless-petproducts.com/fluconazole200.html. I've read that it's good for Bryopsis and Hair Algae. any one have any experience using on Dinos?


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Old 02/07/2018, 03:57 PM   #4448
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I’m just here to share a really effective tool at least for my strain of Dino’s. Give it a try






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Old 02/07/2018, 04:29 PM   #4449
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If those are indeed Dino's which they appear to be -- it is a long tough battle. No chemicals on the market will treat it. Chemicals only make the situation worse causing so many other issues throwing the eco system out of balance. The only treatment that seems to make a dent is elevating N03 & P04 levels along with pulling out your sand bed. A UV works depending on which strain of dino you have.

If your N & P levels are zero i would start by boosting up those levels. Avoid chemicals if at all possible. Just my $0.02


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Old 02/07/2018, 04:31 PM   #4450
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Dino X worked for me after 4 treatments with reduced light period. Blues only for 4 hours per day during treatment. No casualties.


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