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Unread 09/22/2010, 08:28 PM   #76
jason2459
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Great idea on the fill level line.


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Unread 10/12/2010, 01:50 PM   #77
bmkj02
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What kind of fitting are you guys using on the Brute trash cans. Im ready to get started on mine and was wondering if they were uni-seals or bulkhead fittings? Im kind of iffy on the uni-seals. Also what size diameter are you using on the PVC?


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Unread 10/13/2010, 07:53 AM   #78
RocketSurgeon
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following along. thanks for all your pics! I'll be starting mine soon.


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Unread 10/18/2010, 03:40 PM   #79
scott26
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This is a great thread thanks for the info.


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Unread 10/18/2010, 08:25 PM   #80
flyguy1821
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmkj02 View Post
What kind of fitting are you guys using on the Brute trash cans. Im ready to get started on mine and was wondering if they were uni-seals or bulkhead fittings? Im kind of iffy on the uni-seals. Also what size diameter are you using on the PVC?
Cant speak for the others but I used some seals that are basically big flat rubber washers and silicone. I didnt know about uniseals until after. I would have used them in a sec.

My pipe diameter is 1 inch for the main "mixing" parts and 3/4 pex for the insert line into my main return. Since it is only on for a few minutes adding water, I didnt figure I needed to get larger pipe or worry about it.


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Unread 10/24/2010, 08:15 AM   #81
beatle
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Bump for more designs.

For those using Brute trash cans as reservoirs, how do you measure the amount of water in each container if you're not using the trick "coffee maker" indicator, which is awesome.


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Unread 10/24/2010, 09:18 AM   #82
serpentman
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Here is my RO storage tank. It was custom made from polypropylene and holds about 80g. I run both my ATO and SW mixing from it. Every Friday I fill up a 40g brute on wheels and pre-mix my SW for the next day's water change. However, I am looking into a 100g SW holding tank.




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Unread 10/24/2010, 09:32 AM   #83
IRISSERVICE
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nice thread...


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Unread 10/24/2010, 11:27 AM   #84
rick12
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great thread. my understanding is that the brute trash cans are food grade plastic (and therefore do not leach phosphates), where the rubbermaid containers are not foodgrade.
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Originally Posted by kc350twin View Post
I haven't had any measurable phosphate in any of them. I have seen the recent thread on this issue and have been wondering. I'm more worried about my refuge and ato containers. They are small Rubbermaid trash cans. I will try and measure the water for po4 tonight or tomorrow.



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Unread 10/24/2010, 12:16 PM   #85
ToLearn
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Free shipping is hard to beat. I bought these from a friend of Los's locally. Thank goodness.

I noticed you were in Maryland not too far from me, was curious if you could share your source.


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Unread 12/11/2010, 09:32 PM   #86
Everyones Hero
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ToLearn View Post
I noticed you were in Maryland not too far from me, was curious if you could share your source.
x2. Prices on these storage tanks is ridiculous.


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Unread 12/11/2010, 09:42 PM   #87
Los
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Quote:
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I noticed you were in Maryland not too far from me, was curious if you could share your source.
I am SO SORRY for not replying earlier. I didn't realize that I was asked a question on this thread. Anyway, here's where I bought them:

http://www.plastic-mart.com/class.php?item=913

I am very, very happy with these tanks. Water changes are a piece of cake. If you check out my build thread, which I admittedly haven't updated in a while, you can see the details of how it's incorporated into my system and how the water changes work. If you live near Salisbury, I'd be happy to show you in person.

Cheers!


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Unread 12/12/2010, 10:09 AM   #88
Camel413
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Just wanted to say that I was really untrusting of those uniseals when I first heard people on here talk about them. I ordered some and when I got them I understood a bit better how they worked. Trust me they are very thick, high grade rubber. Once I saw them in person I was not a bit afraid to use them without the fear of leaks.

Just wanted to say this for anyone that was skeptical of using uniseals.


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Unread 12/12/2010, 11:21 AM   #89
ToLearn
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I was reading back through and saw this.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rick12 View Post
great thread. my understanding is that the brute trash cans are food grade plastic (and therefore do not leach phosphates), where the rubbermaid containers are not foodgrade.
Look on the rubbermaid website. The Brutes come in a whole slew of colors. The grey ones at home depot and Lowes are food grade and fine for reef tanks.


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Unread 12/12/2010, 11:25 AM   #90
ToLearn
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Los you have a PM.


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Unread 12/12/2010, 11:56 AM   #91
connecticut cichlids
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I believe the food grade brutes are ( grey, yellow, and white )


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Unread 12/12/2010, 03:17 PM   #92
ToLearn
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Los View Post
If you check out my build thread
....

I would like to do so, but not sure where it is.

Never mind found it.



Last edited by ToLearn; 12/12/2010 at 03:26 PM.
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Unread 12/24/2010, 09:38 AM   #93
stormrider27
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I have a question about setting up my 100 gallon (two 50 gallon barrels plumbed together) salt water reservoir. Once the salt is mixed properly will I need to:

1. Keep the water mixing continuously?
2. Mix it a couple times a week?
3. Mix it a couple times a day?
4. No need to further mix?

Also should I keep the water aerated?

A 100 gallons will equal about two months of automatic water changes.

Thanks,
Mark


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Unread 12/24/2010, 01:10 PM   #94
grinner30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stormrider27 View Post
I have a question about setting up my 100 gallon (two 50 gallon barrels plumbed together) salt water reservoir. Once the salt is mixed properly will I need to:

1. Keep the water mixing continuously?
2. Mix it a couple times a week?
3. Mix it a couple times a day?
4. No need to further mix?

Also should I keep the water aerated?

A 100 gallons will equal about two months of automatic water changes.

Thanks,
Mark
Bump on these questions!


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Unread 12/24/2010, 01:38 PM   #95
talwen
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A really good place to find barrels locally is at feed stores for animals or food storage places that way you dont have to pay shipping my grandma just got 100 gallon one for under $100 at the feed store hope this helps


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Unread 12/24/2010, 02:54 PM   #96
digitalchrisg
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Craigslist is also good, there is some guy in my area that sells 55gallon ones for $20.


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330 gal, 55 gal, and sumps/refugiums.

Current Tank Info: 330 gal, 55 gal, and sumps/refugium
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Unread 12/24/2010, 06:21 PM   #97
Jmason95
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stormrider27 View Post
I have a question about setting up my 100 gallon (two 50 gallon barrels plumbed together) salt water reservoir. Once the salt is mixed properly will I need to:

1. Keep the water mixing continuously?
2. Mix it a couple times a week?
3. Mix it a couple times a day?
4. No need to further mix?

Also should I keep the water aerated?

A 100 gallons will equal about two months of automatic water changes.

Thanks,
Mark
I would throw a small powerhead in each barrel and leave them on 24/7. I mix 50 gallons at a time - 5 gallon water changes per week. I have a Maxi-Jet 900 which I leave running in my barrel.


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Unread 12/24/2010, 08:32 PM   #98
mth1993
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I am looking at automating my manual water change process right now but the focus of this tank has been minimize electricity (within reason) water volume is 2x old tank but monthly elec is down $5 not huge but still waiting for led to come down in price to replace t-5's

I have noticed large pumps in most of the setup's, my plan is to use two mag 5's to pump the ro and salt for top off and change. They would only run when the water is being pumped. The top off water is not that much so no heater in it and the water change will heat only the day before and day of the change.

To keep the water mixing and fresh, I want to just use an air stone in each tank. Is this ok?

my other question is i have noticed in the past the RO water storage seems to get slimie after a week or so. Do I have to worry about this? I normally do and it wastes a lot of water.

Thank you

Mike


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Unread 12/30/2010, 06:43 AM   #99
beatle
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I would use something more than an airstone to mix the water. A Koralia evolution would get the job done well. They're very efficient. The 750 uses only 4.5w.

When I eventually plumb my ATO and automatic water changes via a litermeter, I don't plan on heating either reservoir. The amount of water pumped into the system will be insignificant enough not to impact the temp of the tank.


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Unread 12/30/2010, 07:13 AM   #100
digitalchrisg
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beatle View Post
When I eventually plumb my ATO and automatic water changes via a litermeter, I don't plan on heating either reservoir. The amount of water pumped into the system will be insignificant enough not to impact the temp of the tank.
Just remember to take the temperature into account when you are mixing the salt. I do the samething with not heating the water and doing a slow drip in with the changes, but have already calibrated the amount of salt to put in to water and just repeat.


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330 gal, 55 gal, and sumps/refugiums.

Current Tank Info: 330 gal, 55 gal, and sumps/refugium
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