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Unread 12/31/2005, 08:13 AM   #151
frank10
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Is it easier to use a SLIP or threaded bulkhead fittings?

also, is it advisable to have a hole near the bottom of the tank? Maybe that could be used for draining the tank.


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Unread 12/31/2005, 11:40 AM   #152
DerekW
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I always use threaded so that i can change the setup around later if I need, easier than cutting off pipe and using an adaptor later to reattach


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Unread 12/31/2005, 12:00 PM   #153
doody
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Quote:
Originally posted by DerekW
I always use threaded so that i can change the setup around later if I need, easier than cutting off pipe and using an adaptor later to reattach
Good point


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Unread 12/31/2005, 05:09 PM   #154
Superorb
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i wouldnt recommend richon tools unless they changed the design of their bits. ALL mine were wobbly. 1 out of like 12 were useable, even AFTER he sent me 2 replacements. Guess he didn't check them before he sent them. One was horrible and the other was the useable one.


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Unread 01/01/2006, 07:28 PM   #155
JustOneMoreTank
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Quote:
Originally posted by Superorb
i wouldnt recommend richon tools unless they changed the design of their bits. ALL mine were wobbly. 1 out of like 12 were useable, even AFTER he sent me 2 replacements. Guess he didn't check them before he sent them. One was horrible and the other was the useable one.
I have received very good bits from both Richon Tools and Lau from Hong Kong off of Ebay. Both seem to have excellent prices and quick shipping.
Sorry that you did not have as good of an experience Superorb.


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Unread 01/01/2006, 08:03 PM   #156
speakeraddict
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I just used my new ones I got in on Friday. They work flawlessly. I drilled 3 holes for 1" bulkhead fittings in 3/8" glass in less than 15 minutes. I will never go back to the dremel method. I would imagine that I can get at least 6 or 8 holes out of each bit. A bargain for sure.

speakeraddict


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Unread 01/01/2006, 09:31 PM   #157
10" Red Devil
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Is there anyway to get these bits from a local place like homedepot or the like?

Thanks!


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Unread 01/01/2006, 09:38 PM   #158
10" Red Devil
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Is there anyway I can buy the bulkhead from someplace other then this place with their shipping it comes out to about what the lfs charges and I only need a 1" lightweight bulkhead. About $15 with shipping. The shipping is more then the bulkhead, ***!

http://www.savko.com/ViewCart.asp

Thanks.


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Unread 01/01/2006, 11:28 PM   #159
dwall174
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Quote:
Originally posted by jrcastro
Anyway to tell if a glass pane is tempered??
Quote:
Originally posted by Superorb
Call the manufacturer. There's no way to tell just by looking at it.
Well there are a couple of ways to tell, Check out this Article the last paragraph explains how to use polarized sun glasses like fisherman use to see past the surface of the water. If its tempered you should see small circle marks in the glass. Just look at a rear car window with a pair of polarized sun glasses & you’ll see what they’re talking about!


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Unread 01/01/2006, 11:38 PM   #160
dwall174
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Quote:
Originally posted by 10" Red Devil
Is there anyway I can buy the bulkhead from someplace other then this place
If you have a marina near you they may have them! The same bulkheads we use for our tanks are used for the live wells on fishing boats. Also check with pool & spa suppliers they may also have some.


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Unread 01/02/2006, 11:18 AM   #161
10" Red Devil
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Quote:
Originally posted by dwall174
If you have a marina near you they may have them! The same bulkheads we use for our tanks are used for the live wells on fishing boats. Also check with pool & spa suppliers they may also have some.
Cool!

How about the hole saw bits?


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Unread 01/02/2006, 12:09 PM   #162
dwall174
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Quote:
Originally posted by 10" Red Devil
How about the hole saw bits?
I originally paid around $40 for my 1-3/4” diamond hole saw! I’m working on a new tank & I’m going to get several more saws from Treasure HK I can't see paying the high price if these cheaper bits will also work! If I need to drill 25+ holes then maybe the better ones might pay for themselves, But for what I need the cheaper ones should work!


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Unread 01/02/2006, 12:27 PM   #163
10" Red Devil
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Yeah but can you get these hole saws at any retail outlet around? Such as Home Depot, Lowes, etc?

Thanks.


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Unread 01/02/2006, 02:07 PM   #164
dwall174
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Not at Home Depot or Lowes!
Maybe from a ceramic supplier or a tile store? But then you will probably be paying like $40~$50 for a 1-3/4” bit like I originally did!


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Unread 01/02/2006, 02:58 PM   #165
Superorb
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i just cant figure out why i had such bad luck with the string of bits that i got. oh well, the world may never know.


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Unread 01/02/2006, 03:40 PM   #166
frank10
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Maybe you caught a bad lot or something.


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Unread 01/02/2006, 09:03 PM   #167
Superorb
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that's what i'm thinking.


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Unread 01/03/2006, 09:10 AM   #168
frank10
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I'm considering the double threaded bulkheads from marine depot. Should I go with the heavy duty version?


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Unread 01/03/2006, 01:16 PM   #169
meagan_myers
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If both Savko and Marine depot list a Sch. 80 2" bulkhead needing a 3 1/4 inch hole (82.55mm) then which of Lou's drill bits would be the right one? He has an 80mm and an 85mm. Would 85mm be too big?


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Unread 01/03/2006, 01:27 PM   #170
stgla
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I used double threaded bulkhead (going through the side, not bottom) and now I realize I can't find male threaded fittings I need (tee and 90-degree elbow -- 1.5").


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Unread 01/03/2006, 06:14 PM   #171
DerekW
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Quote:
Originally posted by stgla
I used double threaded bulkhead (going through the side, not bottom) and now I realize I can't find male threaded fittings I need (tee and 90-degree elbow -- 1.5").
For threaded tee:
http://www.aquaticeco.com/index.cfm/.../7249/cid/1826
But you need to use a nipple to attach

For the elbow:
http://www.aquaticeco.com/index.cfm/.../7405/cid/1867
or this with a nipple
http://www.aquaticeco.com/index.cfm/.../7412/cid/1854


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Current Tank Info: 220, 4x250w mh, 4x110w actinics CS12-2 RC , 75 gallon sump, Calcium reactor, DIY 36" Kalkwasser reactor
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Unread 01/03/2006, 08:17 PM   #172
Fl_seagull
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I just started drilling my 75 gal to put in a Calfo (?) type overflow. I don't use a hole saw I use stainglass bits.

Well... I cracked my first tank.

I got impatient and the bit was dull. It wasn't from over heating it was from hitting the glass .


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Unread 01/10/2006, 02:03 PM   #173
frank10
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Quote:
Originally posted by Fl_seagull
I just started drilling my 75 gal to put in a Calfo (?) type overflow. I don't use a hole saw I use stainglass bits.

Well... I cracked my first tank.

I got impatient and the bit was dull. It wasn't from over heating it was from hitting the glass .
sorry to hear about that. you'll get it right next time.

I drilled my holes last weekend and it was easier than I thought. I did the water dam thing and took my time. The only "difficult" part was getting the bit started into the glass. If possible, try practicing on some spare glass.


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Unread 01/10/2006, 02:24 PM   #174
meagan_myers
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Does anyone have an opinion on how close the drill bit shoud be in size to the bulkhead's recommended hole needed? Such as a 1" sch 80 needing a 2" hole (50.8mm). Would a 52mm drill bit be to much of a difference?


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Unread 01/10/2006, 02:30 PM   #175
stgla
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It should probably be slightly larger. If you have the bulkhead you can measure the width of the flange and gasket. That's your wiggle room. The flange is the "lip" or flat disc-shaped piece that sits flush with inside of your tank wall and the gasket is the flat rubber ring that sits against the tank wall from the outside. (Someone please correct me if I have that wrong).

If you make the hole too small (as I did), you can enlarge it with a grinding stone, but it can be tedious and require different bits and more risk to your glass.

If you make it a bit too large, the flange will probably still cover it. If you make it way too large, then you're toast and you need a larger bulkhead.


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