ATI Powermodule Hybrid Club

[MK]

Originally Posted by MSHUR

in my case power cord on the left, so front to back: channel 3-4-5-6

Mike I'm on the front of my unit checking these bulbs and trying to be smart but now I'm laughing at loud
Looks like in 24" long unit it doesn't matter if cord is on right side or left
2 outer each side are one channel 2 inner second...

[MSHUR]

))

[sahin]

Originally Posted by MSHUR

Hmmm,
here is my configuration at first:
front to back

empty
empty
B+
Coral
LED
Fiji
B+
empty
empty

At this configuration in softwear i see 2 channels. now i add two more bulbs in the front and still 2 channels showing.. i figure this would be a third channel..

Do NOT run the other T5 slots empty. If the unit switches on the ballasts they can go faulty if there are no tubes. I did that with my Sunpower accidently, and switch the unit on...the ballast wouldnt run afterwards and I had to replace the ballast.

Even if you run only 1 channel (which runs 4 of the 8 tubes), things like DEMO mode etc, will force every single ballast to switch on.

Always a good idea to have some old tubes in the outer 4 slots even if you wont be using them.

Just my experience.

PS you will see 1 channel on a 4 tube unit and 2 channels on an 8 tube unit (regardless of whether there are T5's in the slot of not). The unit assumes tubes are in place in each slot.

[MSHUR]

Thank you Sahin for heads up.. i will call ATI on Monday to confirm this .. So far 6 out of 8 bulbs workng good...

[gmr7494]

After reading through this thread, I'm definitely sold. I have a 36" x 24" × 16" shallow reef tank (60 gallons). I spoke to a tech at reefgeek and he said I could probably get away with the 24" model. The next model up is the 36" 2×75 model. I'd like to save some cash and go with the smaller model, but I want to get it right. Any thoughts?

[sahin]

Originally Posted by gmr7494

After reading through this thread, I'm definitely sold. I have a 36" x 24" × 16" shallow reef tank (60 gallons). I spoke to a tech at reefgeek and he said I could probably get away with the 24" model. The next model up is the 36" 2×75 model. I'd like to save some cash and go with the smaller model, but I want to get it right. Any thoughts?

Because your tank is so shallow, I'm 50/50 on this. Normally I would have said go for the 36" model to ensure adequate light at the sides...but being such a shallow tank (with the bottom glass, sand and minus the 1.5" off the top of the water, your water line height is going to be close to only 14"inches or so).

Hence a 24" unit will be fine.

IF you were looking to upgrade within a year or two, then I'd say get the 36" model...otherwise for the intended shallow tank, the 24" will cover fine.

BUT bear in that you will only have 1 LED cluster. With two clusters you are able to get much better coverage. You also have twice as much Royal Blues etc for extra POP...and a little bit more shimmer. You also get cloud sweep etc with 2 or more clusters.

Hence why I said 50/50...

[wheelman76]

Great answer !!

[gmr7494]

Originally Posted by sahin

Because your tank is so shallow, I'm 50/50 on this. Normally I would have said go for the 36" model to ensure adequate light at the sides...but being such a shallow tank (with the bottom glass, sand and minus the 1.5" off the top of the water, your water line height is going to be close to only 14"inches or so).

Hence a 24" unit will be fine.

IF you were looking to upgrade within a year or two, then I'd say get the 36" model...otherwise for the intended shallow tank, the 24" will cover fine.

BUT bear in that you will only have 1 LED cluster. With two clusters you are able to get much better coverage. You also have twice as much Royal Blues etc for extra POP...and a little bit more shimmer. You also get cloud sweep etc with 2 or more clusters.

Hence why I said 50/50...

Awesome advice. I will think both over tonight. In either case, how high should the unit be over the water surface?

[sahin]

Originally Posted by gmr7494

Awesome advice. I will think both over tonight. In either case, how high should the unit be over the water surface?

Typically, most have their units around 7-10inches. With PURE T5's I've seen the range is typically 5-8inches. However, with the LED's as well, you are going to have CRAZY PAR, so you can easily hang the unit 7-10inches to get the coverage you require.

I have an 8tube 24" unit 8" above the waterline on a 30" long 47G tank. My unit is overkill for my tank, but I bought it with an upgrade in mind for next year.

EDIT: Whichever unit you get, remember you have complete control over how bright you run the LED's, so its not so much as how high, but more about what height will get you best coverage front to back and sides etc.

I get around 350-400 PAR on the bottom of my tank! Thats with Royal Blues running 100% and the others less than 30%.

[gmr7494]

Originally Posted by sahin

Typically, most have their units around 7-10inches. With PURE T5's I've seen the range is typically 5-8inches. However, with the LED's as well, you are going to have CRAZY PAR, so you can easily hang the unit 7-10inches to get the coverage you require.

I have an 8tube 24" unit 8" above the waterline on a 30" long 47G tank. My unit is overkill for my tank, but I bought it with an upgrade in mind for next year.

EDIT: Whichever unit you get, remember you have complete control over how bright you run the LED's, so its not so much as how high, but more about what height will get you best coverage front to back and sides etc.

I get around 350-400 PAR on the bottom of my tank! Thats with Royal Blues running 100% and the others less than 30%.

Thanks again...by the way, when I first got into the hobby six years or so ago, I started off with a cadlights 22g nano. I posted a build thread on rc and you were one of the first ones to comment on it and give some advice. That meant a lot at that time and I appreciate it more now!

[sahin]

Originally Posted by gmr7494

Thanks again...by the way, when I first got into the hobby six years or so ago, I started off with a cadlights 22g nano. I posted a build thread on rc and you were one of the first ones to comment on it and give some advice. That meant a lot at that time and I appreciate it more now!

Aww, thanks for letting me know that. Didnt even realise I posted in your thread years ago Our paths cross again

[Ryecoon]

wow i need to learn how to figure out what my par numbers are looking like lol i have 2 kessil 360Ns pointing directly at my sps corals lol

[vitodog]

sahin, which fixture would you recommend for my 125 gal. (48L x 30W x 20H). I have been following this thread and I'm seriously considering purchasing this ATI fixture. Thank you.

[sahin]

Originally Posted by vitodog

sahin, which fixture would you recommend for my 125 gal. (48L x 30W x 20H). I have been following this thread and I'm seriously considering purchasing this ATI fixture. Thank you.

Either the 8x54watt LED PM or the 8x39watt LED PM.

8x54watt LED PM:

Complete coverage with great PAR everywhere in the tank. Even the corners will hit 350+ PAR on the bottom! For growing SPS anywhere in the tank.

Go for this unit if you want to place SPS/clams anywhere in the tank...ie you can even place clams on the sand near the side etc and it will be just fine.

No shadows etc anywhere in the tank. SPS will grow naturally and not bow/grow towards the middle where light is stronger.

Slightly more pop (3x24watts of Royal Blue) and shimmer (3x24watts of White LED) because you have more LED clusters.

Nicer cloud sweep (sweeps over 3 clusters rather than 2).

Total watts: 657

8x39watt LED PM:

Even though this unit will be shorter than the tank, it will be fine for an SPS dominated tank but perhaps with a more minimal rockscape rather than a traditional tank filled with rocks everywhere...ie your main rockwork will be underneath the unit and not stray too far away from the units coverage.

Probably better suited if you want to keep chalices and some Acans etc on the sandbed. The sides will have slightly lower PAR (but still pretty decent).

The TWO LED clusters are spaced out nicely, so you can still keep SPS nearer to the sides, but do expect some shadowing on the sides if you have a high rockscape with coral growth after a year or two.

Total watts: 462

That is in a nutshell, the difference in getting either unit.

There are plenty of people with T5 units shorter than the tank length...PLUS now having the LED clusters, the PAR is pushed up nearer to the side compared to a PURE T5 unit.

[Wijnand]

Hello

My name is Wijnand from the netherlands
Afther THE summier i want to start my cube tank 26 x 26 and 26 water level
I want to buy the Ati powermodule
I want a sps tank only , with a few fish
Should a take the 4 bulbs 24" or the 8 bulbs
The Ati powermodule is since a short time avalible in Holland
It's the newest one , with less leds

[sahin]

Originally Posted by Wijnand

Hello

My name is Wijnand from the netherlands
Afther THE summier i want to start my cube tank 26 x 26 and 26 water level
I want to buy the Ati powermodule
I want a sps tank only , with a few fish
Should a take the 4 bulbs 24" or the 8 bulbs
The Ati powermodule is since a short time avalible in Holland
It's the newest one , with less leds

You need the 8 tube 24" Powermodule for that. Not only do you have more than 2ft coverage required front to back, you also have a fairly deep tank and a 4tube unit will not be enough.

Hope that helps. Thats a nice tank size.

[Wijnand]

Originally Posted by sahin

You need the 8 tube 24" Powermodule for that. Not only do you have more than 2ft coverage required front to back, you also have a fairly deep tank and a 4tube unit will not be enough.

Hope that helps. Thats a nice tank size.

Thanks for answer my question
And what About the heat, is the powermodule Much more warmer than the leds
Ficture's
How Much wil it erase my water temp in the summer
When the room is 77 F

[sahin]

Originally Posted by Wijnand

Thanks for answer my question
And what About the heat, is the powermodule Much more warmer than the leds
Ficture's
How Much wil it erase my water temp in the summer
When the room is 77 F

With 8x24watt tubes on a powermodule on a 26x26x26 tank, it shouldnt raise your temp at all.

I speak from experience because my own tank is situated in our living room which (in a modern flat) runs around 78-80'F all year round. I use a couple of small 3inch PC fans to keep my tank around 79'F.

My skimmer pump adds more heat to my tank than my light fixture. With my skimmer off, my fans dont run at all.

I am running 8x24+1x75watt LED Powermodule = 267watts over a tank which is 2/3 the size of your tank in a warmer room.

[Wijnand]

Thanks Sahin

Can't wait till the summer is over
First holliday 's to spain , and when i'am back starting up the cube
Okay bye for now

[wheelman76]

Anyone have a sticker on their ballast when like this when it arrived?

[sahin]

Originally Posted by wheelman76

Anyone have a sticker on their ballast when like this when it arrived?

Mine didnt come like that, but I've seen a few photos with peoples ballasts with that sticker (here and other forums). Just an easy way to ID the particular ballast etc.

[wheelman76]

Cool , just thought I'd check because I just received mine yesterday and it didnt have the film on the acrylic shield and there were a couple scratches on the shield. What really bothers me is I received a fixture with the old style LEDs. I specifically asked the retailer before I purchased the light and he assured me that all the fixtures he had in stock were the newer models with the new LEDs. I'm waiting to hear back from the retailer on what they will do.

[sahin]

Originally Posted by wheelman76

Cool , just thought I'd check because I just received mine yesterday and it didnt have the film on the acrylic shield and there were a couple scratches on the shield. What really bothers me is I received a fixture with the old style LEDs. I specifically asked the retailer before I purchased the light and he assured me that all the fixtures he had in stock were the newer models with the new LEDs. I'm waiting to hear back from the retailer on what they will do.

My unit didnt come with film on the Acrylic shield either. But it didnt have scratches though...so yeah, I would definitely raise that issue with the retailer.

With regards, to the units with the Luxeon M quad chips...that wouldnt bother me at all if I got the unit with the previous individual chips. But if you did ask the retailer for a unit with the newer quad chips then hmmm...another point to raise with the retailer.

[wheelman76]

Originally Posted by sahin

My unit didnt come with film on the Acrylic shield either. But it didnt have scratches though...so yeah, I would definitely raise that issue with the retailer.

With regards, to the units with the Luxeon M quad chips...that wouldnt bother me at all if I got the unit with the previous individual chips. But if you did ask the retailer for a unit with the newer quad chips then hmmm...another point to raise with the retailer.

It was my understanding that the older version LEDs were not upgrade able in the future when they come out with different LEDs. And that the newer LEDs were able to be upgraded. Is this wrong ?

[sahin]

Originally Posted by wheelman76

It was my understanding that the older version LEDs were not upgrade able in the future when they come out with different LEDs. And that the newer LEDs were able to be upgraded. Is this wrong ?

Hmmm...I dont know about this...Can you drop ATI an email and let us know? I think someone else mentioned this a few pages back...but never got back.