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Unread 10/11/2007, 01:31 PM   #1
spscrackhead
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which valve

i am adding a T to my overflow and off the T i am putting a valve which will normally be off and when i want to do a wc, ill open that bad boy up and water from the overflow will go into a bucket. which type of valve should i go with?


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Unread 10/11/2007, 01:35 PM   #2
Big Boy69
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You could use a regular ball vavle.


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Unread 10/11/2007, 01:36 PM   #3
spscrackhead
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ok thanks. which are the best check valves?


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Unread 10/11/2007, 01:52 PM   #4
hebygb
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will that be enough water for a water change... typically that would be less than an inch of water that would come out of the tank via the overflow... could be as little as 2% of the water volume.... Unless I am missing something.


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Unread 10/11/2007, 01:54 PM   #5
rustybucket145
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Check valves are notoriously undependable. I'd do anything I could to get around using one. And I especially would NEVER rely on one.


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400gals of various tanks in the same system.

Current Tank Info: 2 175w MH, 2 VH0 Actinics, Lots of Live Rock, tons of copepods, a Fat Mandarin Goby, Niger Trigger, Yellow Tang, Falco Hawkfish, Bi-Color Pseudo, numerous soft, SPS and LPS Corals
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Unread 10/11/2007, 01:54 PM   #6
spscrackhead
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owww good point. now the T moves to the return pump


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Unread 10/11/2007, 01:54 PM   #7
spscrackhead
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i will also incorperate a siphon break


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Unread 10/11/2007, 01:56 PM   #8
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would that be a better choice?


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Unread 10/11/2007, 02:04 PM   #9
rustybucket145
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siphon break would be better than check valve but still not fail safe. The holes can become encrusted with salt creep and close up over time. You need to regularly 'poke' it to keep it clear. The best way in my opinion is to have one of your loclines positioned just barely under the water level. This will act as your siphon break.

Safest way of all would be to have a sump large enough to handle all the overflow but in some cases that's just not practical.

You do realize that the amount of water you will be able to drain off with your method is only going to be equal (or slightly greater) than the amount of water present in your sumps return chamber.


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400gals of various tanks in the same system.

Current Tank Info: 2 175w MH, 2 VH0 Actinics, Lots of Live Rock, tons of copepods, a Fat Mandarin Goby, Niger Trigger, Yellow Tang, Falco Hawkfish, Bi-Color Pseudo, numerous soft, SPS and LPS Corals
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Unread 10/11/2007, 02:29 PM   #10
flamenco-t
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do 2 siphon breaks and have one submerged under water at all time. This way you'll never have to worry about salt creeping in the hole.

stan


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Unread 10/11/2007, 02:32 PM   #11
rustybucket145
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Quote:
do 2 siphon breaks and have one submerged under water at all time. This way you'll never have to worry about salt creeping in the hole.
Ahh! but you will then have to worry about coraline and algae growing over it. And corals. And the one above water would be 'peeing' all the time.


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400gals of various tanks in the same system.

Current Tank Info: 2 175w MH, 2 VH0 Actinics, Lots of Live Rock, tons of copepods, a Fat Mandarin Goby, Niger Trigger, Yellow Tang, Falco Hawkfish, Bi-Color Pseudo, numerous soft, SPS and LPS Corals
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Unread 10/11/2007, 03:20 PM   #12
bill_t
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Quote:
Originally posted by hebygb
will that be enough water for a water change... typically that would be less than an inch of water that would come out of the tank via the overflow...
So long as the return pump is returning, the water level won't change in the main tank. The flow to the sump is being diverted to a bucket… the main tank isn't involved, business as usual as far as its concerned. The water level will change in the sump.


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Unread 10/11/2007, 05:49 PM   #13
spscrackhead
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well i have my return outlet about an inch or so under the water so i should be good.


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