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11/12/2007, 09:07 PM | #1 |
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Closed loop without drilling?
Anyone know of a thread or link or have any experience with creating a closed loop without drilling your tank? Is this even possible? I have a 180g in the works and would like any info I can get before I get the tank running.
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11/12/2007, 09:09 PM | #2 |
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11/12/2007, 09:24 PM | #3 |
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Perfect, thanks!
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11/12/2007, 09:30 PM | #4 |
Space is big.
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http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/ug_jets.php
I have this in my cichlid tank running off a MD5. I would think if you play with the idea some, you may be surprised what you could work up.
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-RocketEngineer "Knowledge is what you get when you read the directions, experience is what you get when you don't." - Unknown Current Tank Info: None Currently |
11/13/2007, 08:29 AM | #5 |
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thank you you helped me out too
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11/13/2007, 08:46 AM | #6 |
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It seems like you could drop a submersible pump in your overflow and return it over the top of the tank to increase your flow without trying to push more water down the pipe to the sump. Assuming your overflow itself can take the additional flow.
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11/13/2007, 02:23 PM | #7 |
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those magnum 350 cannister filters are little portable closed loops.
I wonder if you could be tricky and cast some piping into aragrocrete fake-LR like a fireplace heat-o-lator
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Only Dead fish swim with the current. Current Tank Info: 2 50 gal tanks, sump, still BB |
11/13/2007, 02:43 PM | #8 |
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I am, not sure what the overflows on a Perfecto tank are rated at....the idea of sinking a sub pump in one sounds goood though, would appear very clean from the outside, and would be safe if the pump failed...no flood!
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11/13/2007, 03:01 PM | #9 |
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I used that design ( at least the intake) on the Melevsreef link. It worked well however I also did regret not drilling the tank to begin with. Over time the pvc grew coraline but still took up space in the display.
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400 gallon coral farm Current Tank Info: 54 corner. 400 gallon coral farm |
11/13/2007, 03:51 PM | #10 |
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I would make a change to melev's design where the intake goes up and over the tank. Instead of having a tee with a screw-on cap for priming, I would use a tee with a ball valve. It just makes the priming process a little bit easier. I also do not think the long piece of PVC with drilled holes is necessary. Just put a strainer in the intake, and maybe split it into two inlets. The PVC swiss cheese intake is uglier than powerheads IMO, so it kind of defeats the purpose.
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If it's worth doing, it's worth doing right. I remember when zoanthids were called things like "green" and "orange" and not "reverse gorilla nipple." Current Tank Info: 180g reef with all the bells and whistles |
11/13/2007, 04:48 PM | #11 |
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Like this
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I found a way to make a small fortune running a reef tank. Start with a large fortune. Unofficial President of the SEACLONE haters club Current Tank Info: 125 mixed reef 110 lbs LR, 1x250watt XM 20K MH 2x175watt XM 20K MH on Magetics 2X96 watt actinic PC, 220 watt VHO actinic, 30 gallon refugium, closed loop system powered by Sequence Dart MSX 200 skimmer 38 gallon sump, Oceansmotions squirt |
11/13/2007, 06:17 PM | #12 |
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I was considering his design, but I would route the plumbing through the sand and have 4 to 6 outputs with the ball socket tubing so I could direct flow from the bottom of the tank....all PVC would be hidden under the rock except for the supply line down the back (painted black) and the strainer for the intake.....sound good? I will still have the overflow with the ball valve, I like that idea also!
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11/13/2007, 06:31 PM | #13 |
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If your going to do all that, and your still setting up the tank, just do it right and drill the tank.
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If it's worth doing, it's worth doing right. I remember when zoanthids were called things like "green" and "orange" and not "reverse gorilla nipple." Current Tank Info: 180g reef with all the bells and whistles |
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