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Unread 11/12/2007, 09:07 PM   #1
Pike614
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Closed loop without drilling?

Anyone know of a thread or link or have any experience with creating a closed loop without drilling your tank? Is this even possible? I have a 180g in the works and would like any info I can get before I get the tank running.
Thanks!


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Unread 11/12/2007, 09:09 PM   #2
Southern Boy
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here you go . http://www.melevsreef.com/closedloop.html


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Unread 11/12/2007, 09:24 PM   #3
Pike614
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Perfect, thanks!


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Unread 11/12/2007, 09:30 PM   #4
RocketEngineer
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http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/ug_jets.php

I have this in my cichlid tank running off a MD5. I would think if you play with the idea some, you may be surprised what you could work up.


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Unread 11/13/2007, 08:29 AM   #5
lordmbsa
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thank you you helped me out too


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Unread 11/13/2007, 08:46 AM   #6
Foosinho
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It seems like you could drop a submersible pump in your overflow and return it over the top of the tank to increase your flow without trying to push more water down the pipe to the sump. Assuming your overflow itself can take the additional flow.


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Unread 11/13/2007, 02:23 PM   #7
Frick-n-Frags
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those magnum 350 cannister filters are little portable closed loops.

I wonder if you could be tricky and cast some piping into aragrocrete fake-LR like a fireplace heat-o-lator


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Unread 11/13/2007, 02:43 PM   #8
Pike614
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I am, not sure what the overflows on a Perfecto tank are rated at....the idea of sinking a sub pump in one sounds goood though, would appear very clean from the outside, and would be safe if the pump failed...no flood!


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Unread 11/13/2007, 03:01 PM   #9
Utahcoralfarmer
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I used that design ( at least the intake) on the Melevsreef link. It worked well however I also did regret not drilling the tank to begin with. Over time the pvc grew coraline but still took up space in the display.


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Unread 11/13/2007, 03:51 PM   #10
LobsterOfJustice
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I would make a change to melev's design where the intake goes up and over the tank. Instead of having a tee with a screw-on cap for priming, I would use a tee with a ball valve. It just makes the priming process a little bit easier. I also do not think the long piece of PVC with drilled holes is necessary. Just put a strainer in the intake, and maybe split it into two inlets. The PVC swiss cheese intake is uglier than powerheads IMO, so it kind of defeats the purpose.


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Unread 11/13/2007, 04:48 PM   #11
mg426
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Like this




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Current Tank Info: 125 mixed reef 110 lbs LR, 1x250watt XM 20K MH 2x175watt XM 20K MH on Magetics 2X96 watt actinic PC, 220 watt VHO actinic, 30 gallon refugium, closed loop system powered by Sequence Dart MSX 200 skimmer 38 gallon sump, Oceansmotions squirt
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Unread 11/13/2007, 06:17 PM   #12
Pike614
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I was considering his design, but I would route the plumbing through the sand and have 4 to 6 outputs with the ball socket tubing so I could direct flow from the bottom of the tank....all PVC would be hidden under the rock except for the supply line down the back (painted black) and the strainer for the intake.....sound good? I will still have the overflow with the ball valve, I like that idea also!


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Unread 11/13/2007, 06:31 PM   #13
LobsterOfJustice
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If your going to do all that, and your still setting up the tank, just do it right and drill the tank.


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I remember when zoanthids were called things like "green" and "orange" and not "reverse gorilla nipple."

Current Tank Info: 180g reef with all the bells and whistles
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