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Old 03/01/2008, 04:31 PM   #76
tgunn
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kcress. ezmet2u...

I see what you are saying about the angle iron. I know the guy who built my tank and stand has done many like this for a long time. He normally just puts foam on the angle iron like I showed in one of the first pics. I guess that would compensate for the slope of the angle iron. I ended up using ply in there anyways..

Now that I know what I do I'd have made had this tank built much differently, and no doubt I'd have done the stand with tube steel. the problem I had with the angle iron when I went to make the finish panels is that there's a gap between the edge of the wood panels and the tank glass; this is basically the width of the angle iron.

Tyler


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Old 03/01/2008, 04:41 PM   #77
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eznet2u; Great visual! Thanks. Even putting plywood on that makes me wounder what the plywood thinks about it all, and deforms how??

Probably a moot point on 70g or less but on bigger, it might matter. Might not. I dunno.

MeuserReef; That is nice art. Google SketchUp huh?

Prices are looking pretty manageable.

I don't know if you've cut much 1/8" steel.. It can be really daunting if you don' t have a cut-off tool. I would probably pay a buck a cut gladly.


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Old 03/01/2008, 04:46 PM   #78
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Thanks for that info (cross post) Tyler. It's those leetle details that whack up our projects... Live and learn.

Like MeuserReef probably no needing all the side gussets.. But leaving them out may make skinning the ends much, much harder later.


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Old 03/01/2008, 07:52 PM   #79
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This is what I made for my 240g flat back hex tank.








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Old 03/01/2008, 10:18 PM   #80
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Quote:
Originally posted by kcress
MeuserReef; That is nice art. Google SketchUp huh?

Prices are looking pretty manageable.

I don't know if you've cut much 1/8" steel.. It can be really daunting if you don' t have a cut-off tool. I would probably pay a buck a cut gladly.
I have a mechanic friend of mine that said he would loan me his metal chop saw to make any of the cuts that I need. It has the ability to make both 90 and 45 degree cuts (the mill will only make 90 degree cuts). I will need to make (16) 45 degree cuts and dont really want someone else cutting it for fear that they will not cut the pieces correctly. You know the saying... "if you want something done right... bla.. bla... bla..."

This project has been the first that I have used the Google SketchUp on. I really like it because it works with real-world measurements and is pretty easy to learn (IMO). Im glad you like the art


Treg... That stand is a M o N s T e R

Very nice looking welds too. What did you finish it with?


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Old 03/01/2008, 10:34 PM   #81
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You can probably rent a chop saw. I would imagine it would be worth it... like you said, if you want something done right...

If you have any large plumbing projects coming up, it could be worth buying one. They make cutting PVC a breeze also!

Thanks. I like to grind the outside welds flat. Most "Pro" stand makers dont do that. It makes the finish look nice.

This finish was a textured Powder Coating. The texture finish helps hide any little blemishes in the metal. I made one for my basement sump and painted it. Paint looks nice but the powder coating looks a lot nicer.






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Old 03/02/2008, 09:08 PM   #82
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Here is a pic of the new stand and cabinet I have been building for my 225g tank. The tank will be viewable from the front and 1 side and will be covered on both the front and back with wood cabinetry as it will be a peninsula style room divider tank





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Old 03/02/2008, 11:45 PM   #83
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Nice. Pretty complex..


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Old 03/03/2008, 08:14 AM   #84
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wow.... that thing is HUGE! It looks great. What are your plans for the cabinetry?


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Old 03/03/2008, 09:19 AM   #85
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I know, pretty large! But the cabinetry will go from ceiling to floor and all the way around. Just ordered doors for it online, a total of 14, 5 on the front, 1 on the top side, and 8 along the back so I get easy access. there will be nothing but a closed loop pump under the tank as all of the equip will be housed below the tank in the garage where the tank is sitting now, the tank will be directly above the wall you see in the picture. I had the wall placed by a structural engineer to hold a 600g tank, but have decided to go a little bit smaller to get started, I have been at school and haven't had a big tank for some years.


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Old 03/03/2008, 11:31 AM   #86
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Line-X is the bomb when it comes to coating steel tank stands.

And if you are like me and you stumble across Ken's thread on the the stuff while your stand is out being powder coated you get the added bonus of of dual layer protection.

I never did thank you properly Ken for that added cost









Regardless, it worked out for the best because my stand's floor and interior walls were already installed when it went out for Line-X so I got a sealed drip tray to contain any small water spills as well as seperate sections so my electornics can be housed away from the sump compartment.

Brett


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Old 03/03/2008, 02:07 PM   #87
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Quote:
Originally posted by Putawaywet
Line-X is the bomb when it comes to coating steel tank stands.

And if you are like me and you stumble across Ken's thread on the the stuff while your stand is out being powder coated you get the added bonus of of dual layer protection.

I never did thank you properly Ken for that added cost
Don't mention it Brett

I still need to drop by now that you have the tank up and running.


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Old 03/03/2008, 02:24 PM   #88
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madmike; Do tell! I was looking (casually) for cabinet doors online and couldn't see any. Where did you find yours?


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Old 03/03/2008, 02:57 PM   #89
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http://www.cabinetdoorsandhardware.com/

Best prices I could find...cheaper than building. I spent about $300 total w/ shipping for 14 doors, and 8 of them are big...18X40"!


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Old 03/03/2008, 03:06 PM   #90
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Very nice all! Just in time, too. I'm starting a 180 build and am still deciding between wood and steel. Does anyone have a pic or description of one (steel) that was used for an in-wall build? My 180 will go into a wall and I would like to see how the stand incorporated into the wall for that nice flush look from the viewable side.

Great thread! Keep it going!!


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Old 03/03/2008, 03:47 PM   #91
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Well, I purchased my 1.5" steel tubing this afternoon. I ended up purchasing 48 feet, along with 2 cuts (so it would fit in my car ) and my total bill was $98. I found out that the "chop saw" that my buddy was going to lend me was actually just a carpentry mitre saw with a metal blade on it. Perhaps I will just suck it up and purchase the Harbor Freight saw that was linked above for $60. I didnt realize how thick the 1/8" wall tubing was. WOW.

Im 100% set that I want the truck bed liner sprayed on this puppy when she's done!

Putawaywet... Your stand is very nice with that dual-coat covering!


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Old 03/03/2008, 04:06 PM   #92
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Quote:
Originally posted by OldmillXxX
Very nice all! Just in time, too. I'm starting a 180 build and am still deciding between wood and steel. Does anyone have a pic or description of one (steel) that was used for an in-wall build? My 180 will go into a wall and I would like to see how the stand incorporated into the wall for that nice flush look from the viewable side.

Great thread! Keep it going!!
OldmillXxX, I have seen a steel stand build for inwall tanks. The person just offset the legs back to compensate for the thickness of the wall. I'll see if I can find the thread or Pic's for you.


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Old 03/03/2008, 04:25 PM   #93
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OK, I found it, here is a pic of the stand:


From this thread:
Back in the Saddle Again!! My new 480g In-Wall thread


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Old 03/03/2008, 06:10 PM   #94
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Anti-tipping device in the corner, or just an extra piece of scrap that was missed? We may never know ! That is what I was thinking, but most wood stands are attached to the wall and some don'e have the inside legs (against the wall). I really like that approach for sturdiness. Any other metal-to-wall stands out there?

Thanks. Again, great thread.


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Old 03/03/2008, 06:20 PM   #95
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The ledge of the stand actually sits inside of the wall, with the legs against the wall. The picture is just after welding,painting, and top installation.

Piece in the back was just scrap. I think it may have been bolted to the floor too.


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Old 03/03/2008, 07:27 PM   #96
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MeuserReef; Nice! Moving along aren't we.

1/8" thick? And some of these people are using 3/16". Half again heavier!!

OldmillXxX; A couple of inches of hang over (4-1/2" wall) sure shouldn't cause a tip over hazard.


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Old 03/03/2008, 08:41 PM   #97
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Quote:
Originally posted by kcress
MeuserReef; Nice! Moving along aren't we.

1/8" thick? And some of these people are using 3/16". Half again heavier!!

OldmillXxX; A couple of inches of hang over (4-1/2" wall) sure shouldn't cause a tip over hazard.
Yep

I hope to start work on this thing soon. The way I see it.... until I have my 120 stand built... Im stuck with my 30 gallon!

I took the advice to get the thicker tubing because I will be welding it myself and dont want to ruin my materials.

I doubt I will take pictures while building (I always forget or get too involved to try to document along the way) but I will definetly be posting the stand once its finished!

Im about to begin working on my overflow design and will be making a visit to the local plastic supply warehouse to see what kind of goodies they have in the "scrap bin"!

Keep the pictures coming!


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Old 03/06/2008, 09:52 PM   #98
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Great stands guys! One question, did anybody consider using aluminum instead of steel? If so, why did you go with steel over Al? Price? Is steel easier to work with than aluminum?

thanks,

-avp


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Old 03/06/2008, 09:58 PM   #99
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You need a special welder for aluminum, much more expensive, or you have to bolt it together.

I do know someone who did his in aluminum, I'll go find a picture for you.


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Old 03/06/2008, 10:00 PM   #100
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Here you go:





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