My Black Ocellaris pair are spawning!!! - Page 27

phil519 · 10/22/2009, 08:03 AM

hmmm...point taken. I had sized guessing that the prolific reproduction would require a larger space. But clearly my logic wasn't the brightest.

rkelman · 10/22/2009, 05:38 PM

They may take hold though you never know.. Hmm I know there is a breeder that is in NJ... Flip back through the thread. I'm sure someone that has been involved in this thread is from NJ...

phil519 · 10/22/2009, 07:26 PM

A guy named "zoom" is from snj...i'll check and see if he's breeding anything.

There's also a guy from ohio with userid "new jer z"...kinda amusing...haha.

one more post to 3000 for you - congrats!

rkelman · 10/22/2009, 08:20 PM

Hmm I thought there was someone else. I don't remember. 3001 now thanks

phil519 · 10/23/2009, 01:32 PM

rkelman - have your fry always hatched at dusk? I don't know what happened but when I came in this afternoon the clutch was gone. The lights are on and I was really disappointed I didn't have an opportunity to try and save some. The eggs were laid on 10-14 and they had the "silvery" look this morning. Sigh..bummed but hoping your magic rubs off!

rkelman · 10/23/2009, 07:09 PM

Mine always hatch about 30 mins to 1 hour after lights out. Its more likely they were eaten. Mine were eating them on the last day for a while. It sucks but its likely just phase.

clowns101 · 10/24/2009, 12:38 PM

When was the last time the Blacks spawned?

EileenLH · 10/24/2009, 05:53 PM

Rkelman, I've skimmed back through your thread, but couldn't find where you talk about your water changes for the first couple of weeks. Did you say you didn't change the water until after Meta??

For the new larvae tank, how much Amquel are you adding per day for the 10 gallon tank? And then when do you do routine water changes - how much and how often?

My pH is low right now - 7.8, but I have 1.0 ammonia, 0.50 nitrite, and bet. 20-30 nitrate. I can't decide whether to leave it alone, do a partial water change, or just drip in some new saltwater to dilute it. I have about 6 gallons of water in a 10 gallon tank. Wilkerson's book says if you have low pH and some ammonia, to leave it alone. But then she says make a partial water change if there's nitrite. I don't know which to do!

The fry are 3 and 4 days old, swimming around, and looking healthy (I have tons of rots), but I did loose 5 this a.m. I'm using 1/2 tsp. Amquel per day. Today I used a 1/2 tsp. in the a.m. and another 1/2 tsp. this evening. I vacuum the bottom every day - today twice. Suggestions??

rkelman · 10/24/2009, 07:44 PM

Clowns101: They spawned last on 07/30/2009 and they just spawned tonight! I won't be raising this clutch but its nice to see eggs again.

Yes Eileenlh I don't change the water until after meta. That's only 7 days in my case.

I'm adding the Amquel per the instructions. I think 1/2 a cap in a 10g. Its been so long since I was at that point I forget

My routine water changes are about 30% weekly.

I would leave that tank. Doing a water change will stress the fry and raise the ph making the ammonia more toxic. I wouldn't loose any sleep over the ammonia that's not killing your clowns. 3-4 day old fry die no matter what. I wouldn't loose any sleep over it. You are doing all you can do and ammonia doesn't affect the fry much anyways. They aren't overly sensitive.

clowns101 · 10/25/2009, 01:35 PM

So correct me if Im wrong but is this what you do in oreder to get the fry to adult hood?

1.Parents spawn
2.collect the tile/or fry when they hatch.
3.put tile in tank and have small bubbles going over them.
4.Once they hatch put in rots.
5.Dont change any water and add amquill(what does it do?)
6.Once they reach meta do small change.
7.Put in grow out.
8.Feed baby brine and some flake food.
9.Let grow and sell.( mabey sell)

Let me know if I left anything out!

EileenLH · 10/25/2009, 01:59 PM

Thanks, rkelman! They still look good today, so I'm going to take your advice and try to wait it out until after meta before I change the water. As for the phyto, why do you stop tinting the water with it after a few days?

rkelman · 10/25/2009, 04:15 PM

clowns101: Yep that's pretty much it except I don't feed BBS or flake. I feed otohime. AmQuel detoxifies ammonia.

EileenLH: I stop tinting the water after 4-5 days so I can start them on Otohime A.

bguile · 10/25/2009, 09:14 PM

Wow. I don't think I've ever read almost every word in a thread this long with so much anticipation. What you've done is nothing short of awesome! I hope that your efforts are greatly rewarded once your broods reach maturity.

Couple questions:
-Did you ever try raising the peppermint shrimp fry?
- The otohime that you use, is that something that you culture or you continuously purchase to feed? I've never heard of it until this thread. How much do you purchase to feed one of your grow out tanks?

svynx · 10/26/2009, 01:35 PM

Man, quite a read. My two occelaris clowns laid eggs about 2 weeks ago. I didn't even see them until I saw the silver eyes. Might have been about 50 of them. I'd love to raise the next clutch, but I just don't have the time/room for the setup required. Hopefully they will continue to breed once I find another place to live.
Congrats with all your success.

rkelman · 10/26/2009, 07:03 PM

Thanks guys. No I haven't tried pepperment shrimp. I really don't have alot of space. I just started a new tank / sump for anemone's with T5 lighting so we'll see how that goes. I just got it started on Sunday so its not ready for nem's yet. I'll maybe take some pics on the weekend. Hopefully the water is balance by then and I can add some stock.

Otohime is a dry pellet feed that comes in many different sizes.

rkelman · 10/26/2009, 07:04 PM

Oh yah here's the new batch!

[IMG]

[/IMG]

bguile · 10/26/2009, 07:50 PM

I read earlier that you've had the parents eat eggs from the clutch. I believe I've read that they do that once the eggs have become damaged or unviable. Have you ever tried removing the tile immediately after the eggs have been laid and putting them under the airstone for aeration?

john68camaro · 10/26/2009, 08:08 PM

Those egg's are almost in the shape of a heart!

phil519 · 10/26/2009, 08:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bguile

I read earlier that you've had the parents eat eggs from the clutch. I believe I've read that they do that once the eggs have become damaged or unviable. Have you ever tried removing the tile immediately after the eggs have been laid and putting them under the airstone for aeration?

i don't want to speak for rkelman but afaik he's been doing the tile method for the last 350 clowns...

it was only initially when the clowns were laying eggs on the LR that his clowns occasionally cannibalized the eggs (like mine did...

).

rkelman - congratulations on the latest batch. I need to get me some tile. All of mine are unwieldy 2x2 pieces.

clowns101 · 10/27/2009, 04:42 PM

Okay rkelman,
Tell me if this would work.
Spwaning Paris
1.Ocellaris 2.Percula 3.Skunks 4.Clarkii 5.Tomatos 6.Maroons
Grow out Systems
1.Ocellaris 2.Percula 3.Skunks 4.Clarkii 5.Tomatos 6.Maroons
All tanks will be 10 gallons exept for the larger clowns.Do you think it would work?

rkelman · 10/27/2009, 05:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by clowns101

Okay rkelman,
Tell me if this would work.
Spwaning Paris
1.Ocellaris 2.Percula 3.Skunks 4.Clarkii 5.Tomatos 6.Maroons
Grow out Systems
1.Ocellaris 2.Percula 3.Skunks 4.Clarkii 5.Tomatos 6.Maroons
All tanks will be 10 gallons exept for the larger clowns.Do you think it would work?

Sorry maybe its been just a long day but I don't understand what you are asking. If you are asking if you can use 10g tanks for those fish in growout and for broodstock my answer would be yes and no.. I think as broodstock tanks for Ocellaris / Percs and skunks they are ok. For the others I'd go with 15's. Keep in mind my experience with these larger species is nil. 10g tanks for growouts would not be my choice. I like my 15's for growout. I don't think the larvae tanks for maroons or the other larger species needs to be any bigger.

Quote:

Originally Posted by phil519

i don't want to speak for rkelman but afaik he's been doing the tile method for the last 350 clowns...

it was only initially when the clowns were laying eggs on the LR that his clowns occasionally cannibalized the eggs (like mine did...

).

rkelman - congratulations on the latest batch. I need to get me some tile. All of mine are unwieldy 2x2 pieces.

Mine did eat the eggs on a few different occasions even on the tile. See explanation below. You could just cut the tile.. Mine were 1x1 tiles that I cut.

Quote:

Originally Posted by john68camaro

Those egg's are almost in the shape of a heart!

They are aren't they..

Quote:

Originally Posted by bguile

I read earlier that you've had the parents eat eggs from the clutch. I believe I've read that they do that once the eggs have become damaged or unviable. Have you ever tried removing the tile immediately after the eggs have been laid and putting them under the airstone for aeration?

I have had them eat eggs on a couple occasions. They sometimes eat them due to damage or if they are unfertilized. In my case I believe it was stress. I went through a period where they were eating them the day before the hatch. When that started I pulled the tile a day early and aerated them with success.

clowns101 · 10/27/2009, 05:33 PM

I only wanted to know the if the size of the tanks would be okay.I dont plan on useing a 10 gallon for Clarkiis Tomatos or Maroons.I was thinking like a 15 or 20.If a 15 would be better I could get thoses but will have to look for them.I dont tend to see them very often but will try and get some!

Thanks

rkelman · 10/27/2009, 05:41 PM

I'd go with the 15's.

clowns101 · 10/27/2009, 06:33 PM

Well I just check with the petstore and they cant get in 15.When they can its cheaper to get 20s.I have decided to just put the clowns all in 20s mabey some in 10s but not many.They will all grow out in 20s though.Also on your grow out do you have a main filtration unit or do you have a bubble filter on all tanks?

Thanks

rkelman · 10/27/2009, 08:11 PM

What about getting 30's and putting a divider in? Just a thought.. 20's are ok I'm sure. My growout is plumbed to the 75g sump with bioballs / skimmer / filter floss and a DSB.

10/22/2009, 08:03 AM	#651
phil519 Got Rotifers? Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: NJ Posts: 2,761	hmmm...point taken. I had sized guessing that the prolific reproduction would require a larger space. But clearly my logic wasn't the brightest. __________________ Phil NJ reefers club Current Tank Info: 120 RR Mixed Reef, Custom 40G sump, started Nov 2008. "Are you suggesting that coconuts migrate?"

10/22/2009, 07:26 PM	#653
phil519 Got Rotifers? Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: NJ Posts: 2,761	A guy named "zoom" is from snj...i'll check and see if he's breeding anything. There's also a guy from ohio with userid "new jer z"...kinda amusing...haha. one more post to 3000 for you - congrats! __________________ Phil NJ reefers club Current Tank Info: 120 RR Mixed Reef, Custom 40G sump, started Nov 2008. "Are you suggesting that coconuts migrate?"

10/23/2009, 01:32 PM	#655
phil519 Got Rotifers? Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: NJ Posts: 2,761	rkelman - have your fry always hatched at dusk? I don't know what happened but when I came in this afternoon the clutch was gone. The lights are on and I was really disappointed I didn't have an opportunity to try and save some. The eggs were laid on 10-14 and they had the "silvery" look this morning. Sigh..bummed but hoping your magic rubs off! __________________ Phil NJ reefers club Current Tank Info: 120 RR Mixed Reef, Custom 40G sump, started Nov 2008. "Are you suggesting that coconuts migrate?"

10/24/2009, 12:38 PM	#657
clowns101 Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2008 Posts: 2,041	When was the last time the Blacks spawned? __________________ Thanks, Austin [email protected] Current Tank Info: 125 mixed reef system

10/24/2009, 05:53 PM	#658
EileenLH Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Cape Coral, FL Posts: 24	Rkelman, I've skimmed back through your thread, but couldn't find where you talk about your water changes for the first couple of weeks. Did you say you didn't change the water until after Meta?? For the new larvae tank, how much Amquel are you adding per day for the 10 gallon tank? And then when do you do routine water changes - how much and how often? My pH is low right now - 7.8, but I have 1.0 ammonia, 0.50 nitrite, and bet. 20-30 nitrate. I can't decide whether to leave it alone, do a partial water change, or just drip in some new saltwater to dilute it. I have about 6 gallons of water in a 10 gallon tank. Wilkerson's book says if you have low pH and some ammonia, to leave it alone. But then she says make a partial water change if there's nitrite. I don't know which to do! The fry are 3 and 4 days old, swimming around, and looking healthy (I have tons of rots), but I did loose 5 this a.m. I'm using 1/2 tsp. Amquel per day. Today I used a 1/2 tsp. in the a.m. and another 1/2 tsp. this evening. I vacuum the bottom every day - today twice. Suggestions?? __________________ "In the end, we will conserve only what we love. We will love only what we understand. We will understand only what we are taught.” ~ Baba Dioum

10/22/2009, 05:38 PM	#652
rkelman Registered Member Join Date: May 2006 Location: Belleville, Ontario Canada Posts: 3,438	They may take hold though you never know.. Hmm I know there is a breeder that is in NJ... Flip back through the thread. I'm sure someone that has been involved in this thread is from NJ...

10/22/2009, 08:20 PM	#654
rkelman Registered Member Join Date: May 2006 Location: Belleville, Ontario Canada Posts: 3,438	Hmm I thought there was someone else. I don't remember. 3001 now thanks

10/23/2009, 07:09 PM	#656
rkelman Registered Member Join Date: May 2006 Location: Belleville, Ontario Canada Posts: 3,438	Mine always hatch about 30 mins to 1 hour after lights out. Its more likely they were eaten. Mine were eating them on the last day for a while. It sucks but its likely just phase.

10/24/2009, 07:44 PM	#659
rkelman Registered Member Join Date: May 2006 Location: Belleville, Ontario Canada Posts: 3,438	Clowns101: They spawned last on 07/30/2009 and they just spawned tonight! I won't be raising this clutch but its nice to see eggs again. Yes Eileenlh I don't change the water until after meta. That's only 7 days in my case. I'm adding the Amquel per the instructions. I think 1/2 a cap in a 10g. Its been so long since I was at that point I forget My routine water changes are about 30% weekly. I would leave that tank. Doing a water change will stress the fry and raise the ph making the ammonia more toxic. I wouldn't loose any sleep over the ammonia that's not killing your clowns. 3-4 day old fry die no matter what. I wouldn't loose any sleep over it. You are doing all you can do and ammonia doesn't affect the fry much anyways. They aren't overly sensitive.

10/25/2009, 01:35 PM	#660
clowns101 Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2008 Posts: 2,041	So correct me if Im wrong but is this what you do in oreder to get the fry to adult hood? 1.Parents spawn 2.collect the tile/or fry when they hatch. 3.put tile in tank and have small bubbles going over them. 4.Once they hatch put in rots. 5.Dont change any water and add amquill(what does it do?) 6.Once they reach meta do small change. 7.Put in grow out. 8.Feed baby brine and some flake food. 9.Let grow and sell.( mabey sell) Let me know if I left anything out! __________________ Thanks, Austin [email protected] Current Tank Info: 125 mixed reef system

10/25/2009, 01:59 PM	#661
EileenLH Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Cape Coral, FL Posts: 24	Thanks, rkelman! They still look good today, so I'm going to take your advice and try to wait it out until after meta before I change the water. As for the phyto, why do you stop tinting the water with it after a few days? __________________ "In the end, we will conserve only what we love. We will love only what we understand. We will understand only what we are taught.” ~ Baba Dioum

10/25/2009, 04:15 PM	#662
rkelman Registered Member Join Date: May 2006 Location: Belleville, Ontario Canada Posts: 3,438	clowns101: Yep that's pretty much it except I don't feed BBS or flake. I feed otohime. AmQuel detoxifies ammonia. EileenLH: I stop tinting the water after 4-5 days so I can start them on Otohime A.

10/25/2009, 09:14 PM	#663
bguile Premium Member Join Date: May 2004 Location: York PA Posts: 308	Wow. I don't think I've ever read almost every word in a thread this long with so much anticipation. What you've done is nothing short of awesome! I hope that your efforts are greatly rewarded once your broods reach maturity. Couple questions: -Did you ever try raising the peppermint shrimp fry? - The otohime that you use, is that something that you culture or you continuously purchase to feed? I've never heard of it until this thread. How much do you purchase to feed one of your grow out tanks? __________________ Support bacteria. It's the only culture most people have! Current Tank Info: 210G FOWLR, 40G Reef

10/26/2009, 01:35 PM	#664
svynx Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: wrightsville, pa Posts: 803	Man, quite a read. My two occelaris clowns laid eggs about 2 weeks ago. I didn't even see them until I saw the silver eyes. Might have been about 50 of them. I'd love to raise the next clutch, but I just don't have the time/room for the setup required. Hopefully they will continue to breed once I find another place to live. Congrats with all your success. __________________ "What?!? Haven't you ever seen someone work on an engine with an axe before?" Mythbusters Current Tank Info: switching to the dark (freshwater) side

10/26/2009, 07:03 PM	#665
rkelman Registered Member Join Date: May 2006 Location: Belleville, Ontario Canada Posts: 3,438	Thanks guys. No I haven't tried pepperment shrimp. I really don't have alot of space. I just started a new tank / sump for anemone's with T5 lighting so we'll see how that goes. I just got it started on Sunday so its not ready for nem's yet. I'll maybe take some pics on the weekend. Hopefully the water is balance by then and I can add some stock. Otohime is a dry pellet feed that comes in many different sizes.

10/26/2009, 07:04 PM	#666
rkelman Registered Member Join Date: May 2006 Location: Belleville, Ontario Canada Posts: 3,438	Oh yah here's the new batch! [IMG][/IMG]

10/26/2009, 07:50 PM	#667
bguile Premium Member Join Date: May 2004 Location: York PA Posts: 308	I read earlier that you've had the parents eat eggs from the clutch. I believe I've read that they do that once the eggs have become damaged or unviable. Have you ever tried removing the tile immediately after the eggs have been laid and putting them under the airstone for aeration? __________________ Support bacteria. It's the only culture most people have! Current Tank Info: 210G FOWLR, 40G Reef

10/26/2009, 08:08 PM	#668
john68camaro Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: colonie, ny Posts: 119	Those egg's are almost in the shape of a heart!

10/27/2009, 04:42 PM	#670
clowns101 Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2008 Posts: 2,041	Okay rkelman, Tell me if this would work. Spwaning Paris 1.Ocellaris 2.Percula 3.Skunks 4.Clarkii 5.Tomatos 6.Maroons Grow out Systems 1.Ocellaris 2.Percula 3.Skunks 4.Clarkii 5.Tomatos 6.Maroons All tanks will be 10 gallons exept for the larger clowns.Do you think it would work? __________________ Thanks, Austin [email protected] Current Tank Info: 125 mixed reef system

10/27/2009, 05:33 PM	#672
clowns101 Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2008 Posts: 2,041	I only wanted to know the if the size of the tanks would be okay.I dont plan on useing a 10 gallon for Clarkiis Tomatos or Maroons.I was thinking like a 15 or 20.If a 15 would be better I could get thoses but will have to look for them.I dont tend to see them very often but will try and get some! Thanks __________________ Thanks, Austin [email protected] Current Tank Info: 125 mixed reef system

10/27/2009, 05:41 PM	#673
rkelman Registered Member Join Date: May 2006 Location: Belleville, Ontario Canada Posts: 3,438	I'd go with the 15's.

10/27/2009, 06:33 PM	#674
clowns101 Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2008 Posts: 2,041	Well I just check with the petstore and they cant get in 15.When they can its cheaper to get 20s.I have decided to just put the clowns all in 20s mabey some in 10s but not many.They will all grow out in 20s though.Also on your grow out do you have a main filtration unit or do you have a bubble filter on all tanks? Thanks __________________ Thanks, Austin [email protected] Current Tank Info: 125 mixed reef system

10/27/2009, 08:11 PM	#675
rkelman Registered Member Join Date: May 2006 Location: Belleville, Ontario Canada Posts: 3,438	What about getting 30's and putting a divider in? Just a thought.. 20's are ok I'm sure. My growout is plumbed to the 75g sump with bioballs / skimmer / filter floss and a DSB.