4' X 4' tank - Page 4

SoFloReefer · 09/03/2008, 03:24 PM

I just got my first fish. Its a Secretive Wrasse. I need to think of a good name for him (or her). I am drip acclimating him to my 30 gallon frag tank water and will hold him in there for a few weeks until my new tank is ready to go. He will control Flat worms, Amphipods, Isopods, Snails, and other bad guys.

Gordonious · 09/04/2008, 09:26 AM

Amphipods, Isopods, and Snails, could be good guys and most often are...

SoFloReefer · 09/04/2008, 10:05 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Gordonious
Amphipods, Isopods, and Snails, could be good guys and most often are...

I know I was half joking.

I got my PVC in today from Flexpipe.com. They only left out two fittings and gave me another wrong one.

I was impressed at UPS care of the package also. Im glad it wasn't a computer.

This is what $200+ of fittings looks like.

Im going to start plumbing the tank now.

JCTewks · 09/04/2008, 10:23 PM

AARRGGGHHHH...a check valve!
Don't rely on that to prevent a flood. They tend to get fouled up quickly with vermited snails and fail to close when you most need them! Make sure you still drill siphon breaks!!!

SoFloReefer · 09/05/2008, 01:04 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by JCTewks
AARRGGGHHHH...a check valve!
Don't rely on that to prevent a flood. They tend to get fouled up quickly with vermited snails and fail to close when you most need them! Make sure you still drill siphon breaks!!!

All of my returns are below the water line. I cant figure out how to drill siphon breaks. Can you explain?

JCTewks · 09/05/2008, 09:13 PM

I would make it so that at least 1 return lime rises above the waterline (internal or external) so that breaks can be implemented.

I've read/heard countless stories of people relying on check valves to prevent siphon flooding....and they failed and flooded anyway.

I'm not necessarily saying ditch the valve...just setup some redundency in the system for added safety. Check valves fail...it's not a question of IF, but WHEN...and the WHEN is usually when you are not near the tank

Gordonious · 09/05/2008, 11:07 PM

I'd say ditch the valve. Jeff beat me to it, second I saw it I was ready to start typing. If you think for a second that the pipe is not open above the tank somewhere to allow air in to break the siphon and think you might possibly need the check valve then you need to relook at your plans.

I like an open pathway up and down. No risk of clogs on the way down(no change of tank over flow unless you're pipes are too small) and less back pressure on the pump going up(pump lasts longer, puts out less heat, and your not wasting electricity).

Just my opinion.

Jon

SoFloReefer · 09/06/2008, 06:23 AM

ok I figured it out. Its pretty simple actually. I need to run the flex pipe to a U fitting outside of the tank that sits above the water line then to the return nozzle. I need a small tube that runs from the U fitting to just below the top of the water line. This should be easy to do. Thanks for the advice

JCTewks · 09/06/2008, 09:04 PM

Yep, or, if one of your returns is fairly close to the water surface (close enough to not overflow the sump when return pump is off) then you could jus use that. It would prob be easier to just have one of your return lines as a "surface agitater" with the line only submerged a1/2" or so...then when the pump is off that line will be exposed to air and break the siphon

SoFloReefer · 09/07/2008, 05:57 PM

I got some work done with the plumbing. I still need to build baffles into my sump, run the overflow lines, and drill siphon breaks.

Where the flex pipes loop up before going into the manifold, I am going to drill for the siphon breaks. I think I might splice in 4 of these 1"x3/8" tees.

I might then run the 4 3/8" lines to a surge bucket. These would also serve as siphon breaks.

macawmagic · 09/07/2008, 06:11 PM

lookin good...i say fill it up and see what happens when you unplug the pump. I don't know how low/high your returns are drilled but maybe you don't have to worry about the siphon break. maybe you do... good luck! and it looks good!

SoFloReefer · 09/18/2008, 06:05 PM

I filled the tank with fresh water a few days ago to check for leaks. I found one here:

I patched the leak with epoxy today.

This is the tank with the pump off.

This is with the pump on.

I need to build baffles into the sump because there is to much flow and air bubbles.
This is the chiller I just bought. It's a 1/2 HP Pacific Coast Imports. I got a sick deal on it used. I opened it up today to clean it up found the heat exchanger clogged with dust. After an hour of cleaning it looks good. I also added egg crate over the back to protect the delicate aluminum slats.

I just drilled multiple holes in my PVC rack today so that water will not stagnate inside and cause algae.

I am getting close to finishing the tank. I need to order my lights. I am going to use a 12K Reeflux bulb on a Icecap 400 watt ballast with a Lumenmax reflector (22"x22")
I need to install a blower in the attic to turn over airflow in the garage to control humidity. I need to get live rock, live sand, and salt. I need to plumb the chiller into the system and buy a couple of Koralia Magnum 8s to get more flow in the tank.
Here are a couple of frags I picked of from WWC in Orlando.

A.T.T.R · 09/18/2008, 06:37 PM

nicest looking wood tank iv seen ..

SoFloReefer · 09/18/2008, 06:51 PM

thanks man

A.T.T.R · 09/18/2008, 07:32 PM

come build one for me :P im sick of building them and they never turn out that nice

TiTAN · 09/19/2008, 08:00 AM

Looks good.....Wish you all the Best!!

Mr.Furious · 09/19/2008, 03:33 PM

I dont know if I missed it or not but did you decide on the 50 or 70 gallon rubbermaid tub for use as a sump?

SoFloReefer · 09/19/2008, 07:14 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Mr.Furious
I dont know if I missed it or not but did you decide on the 50 or 70 gallon rubbermaid tub for use as a sump?

50 gallon because of height limitations.

beetlenut33 · 09/20/2008, 02:22 PM

This is a really impressive build. I didn't think it would turn out so nice, but was pleasantly surprised. Great job.

herpboyben · 09/21/2008, 10:06 AM

wow cant wait to see it full.

Jester · 09/21/2008, 11:39 AM

looking good... fill that tank up..!!!!

SoFloReefer · 09/21/2008, 07:38 PM

I ordered my lights today from aquacave.com- I ordered a 400 watt Icecap Ballast, a 12K Reeflux Bulb, and a LumenMax Reflector (22.25"x22.25"x8').

I am going to work on the sump soon. This is a picture I just drew up in paint.

The two overflows will go into the 9" square bubble tower that will rise above the sump and hold live rock rubble. The overflows will go directly into a 7" 200 micron filter sock then flow through the rock rubble before flowing out the bottom of the tower. There will be live rock in the area surrounding the bubble tower. The water will then flow through the three baffles (bubble traps). The water will go over the first baffle, under the second baffle, and over the third. The water will then flow through more live rock and towards the return and refugium area. There will be two more baffles before the return intake. The water will flow over the first and under the second baffle before entering the intake to the return pump. The black line that separates the right half of the sump will be a 5 inch high baffle that will hold in 4" of sand. There will be some mangroves planted in this area. There will be Chaetomorpha in all areas that have live rock and live sand after the bubble trap. There will be a 36" twin bulb T5 fixture above the sump. One bulb will be 10K, one will be 6500K.

Im thinking for flow in the main tank I will use 2 Koralia 4s (controllable) and 2 Koralia Magnum 8s. The 2 Magnums will be below the eggcrate racks and angled down at 10 degrees to keep any detritus from settling on the tank bottom. The 2 Koralia 4s will be above the egg crate pointed 5 degrees up to create a choppy surface and keep flow over the frags. I want to build a controller to control all four Koralias.

marino420td · 09/22/2008, 07:13 AM

Great Build!

Just thought I would show you how I fought bubbles in my sump. I made bubble towers from large diameter pvc in which my overflows flow into.

There are small openings cut into the bottom of the towers for the water to exit while most of the bubbles rise to the top and burst. Some bubbles make their way into the sump but I have a live rock wall to stop them.

I also used a pvc elbow and pipe to extend the return to the opposite end of the sump.

I'm interested to see how you install baffles into the sump. I didn't think I could get them secured in so I went this route.

SoFloReefer · 09/22/2008, 10:58 AM

How much flow goes into your sump?

marino420td · 09/22/2008, 12:01 PM

I would guess around 1000 gph but it is split 3 ways- return from tank, return from refuge and return from direct feed skimmer.

09/06/2008, 06:23 AM	#83
SoFloReefer Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: West Palm Beach Posts: 652	ok I figured it out. Its pretty simple actually. I need to run the flex pipe to a U fitting outside of the tank that sits above the water line then to the return nozzle. I need a small tube that runs from the U fitting to just below the top of the water line. This should be easy to do. Thanks for the advice __________________ 40 breeder Zoanthid and Ricordea dominated tank with LED lighting. Last edited by SoFloReefer; 09/06/2008 at 06:31 AM.

09/07/2008, 05:57 PM	#85
SoFloReefer Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: West Palm Beach Posts: 652	I got some work done with the plumbing. I still need to build baffles into my sump, run the overflow lines, and drill siphon breaks. Where the flex pipes loop up before going into the manifold, I am going to drill for the siphon breaks. I think I might splice in 4 of these 1"x3/8" tees. I might then run the 4 3/8" lines to a surge bucket. These would also serve as siphon breaks. Last edited by SoFloReefer; 09/07/2008 at 06:19 PM.

09/18/2008, 06:05 PM	#87
SoFloReefer Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: West Palm Beach Posts: 652	Filled tank I filled the tank with fresh water a few days ago to check for leaks. I found one here: I patched the leak with epoxy today. This is the tank with the pump off. This is with the pump on. I need to build baffles into the sump because there is to much flow and air bubbles. This is the chiller I just bought. It's a 1/2 HP Pacific Coast Imports. I got a sick deal on it used. I opened it up today to clean it up found the heat exchanger clogged with dust. After an hour of cleaning it looks good. I also added egg crate over the back to protect the delicate aluminum slats. I just drilled multiple holes in my PVC rack today so that water will not stagnate inside and cause algae. I am getting close to finishing the tank. I need to order my lights. I am going to use a 12K Reeflux bulb on a Icecap 400 watt ballast with a Lumenmax reflector (22"x22") I need to install a blower in the attic to turn over airflow in the garage to control humidity. I need to get live rock, live sand, and salt. I need to plumb the chiller into the system and buy a couple of Koralia Magnum 8s to get more flow in the tank. Here are a couple of frags I picked of from WWC in Orlando.

09/18/2008, 06:37 PM	#88
A.T.T.R Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: ft lauderdale Posts: 2,724	nicest looking wood tank iv seen .. __________________ Chris Addicted to the Reef- Current Tank Info: 65 gallon display

09/18/2008, 06:51 PM	#89
SoFloReefer Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: West Palm Beach Posts: 652	thanks man __________________ 40 breeder Zoanthid and Ricordea dominated tank with LED lighting.

09/03/2008, 03:24 PM	#76
SoFloReefer Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: West Palm Beach Posts: 652	I just got my first fish. Its a Secretive Wrasse. I need to think of a good name for him (or her). I am drip acclimating him to my 30 gallon frag tank water and will hold him in there for a few weeks until my new tank is ready to go. He will control Flat worms, Amphipods, Isopods, Snails, and other bad guys.

09/04/2008, 09:26 AM	#77
Gordonious Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Newark DE Posts: 3,399	Amphipods, Isopods, and Snails, could be good guys and most often are...

09/04/2008, 10:23 PM	#79
JCTewks Moved On Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Wilmington, Ohio Posts: 3,129	AARRGGGHHHH...a check valve! Don't rely on that to prevent a flood. They tend to get fouled up quickly with vermited snails and fail to close when you most need them! Make sure you still drill siphon breaks!!!

09/05/2008, 09:13 PM	#81
JCTewks Moved On Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Wilmington, Ohio Posts: 3,129	I would make it so that at least 1 return lime rises above the waterline (internal or external) so that breaks can be implemented. I've read/heard countless stories of people relying on check valves to prevent siphon flooding....and they failed and flooded anyway. I'm not necessarily saying ditch the valve...just setup some redundency in the system for added safety. Check valves fail...it's not a question of IF, but WHEN...and the WHEN is usually when you are not near the tank

09/05/2008, 11:07 PM	#82
Gordonious Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Newark DE Posts: 3,399	I'd say ditch the valve. Jeff beat me to it, second I saw it I was ready to start typing. If you think for a second that the pipe is not open above the tank somewhere to allow air in to break the siphon and think you might possibly need the check valve then you need to relook at your plans. I like an open pathway up and down. No risk of clogs on the way down(no change of tank over flow unless you're pipes are too small) and less back pressure on the pump going up(pump lasts longer, puts out less heat, and your not wasting electricity). Just my opinion. Jon

09/06/2008, 09:04 PM	#84
JCTewks Moved On Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Wilmington, Ohio Posts: 3,129	Yep, or, if one of your returns is fairly close to the water surface (close enough to not overflow the sump when return pump is off) then you could jus use that. It would prob be easier to just have one of your return lines as a "surface agitater" with the line only submerged a1/2" or so...then when the pump is off that line will be exposed to air and break the siphon

09/07/2008, 06:11 PM	#86
macawmagic Moved On Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Weston, fl Posts: 1,912	lookin good...i say fill it up and see what happens when you unplug the pump. I don't know how low/high your returns are drilled but maybe you don't have to worry about the siphon break. maybe you do... good luck! and it looks good!

09/18/2008, 07:32 PM	#90
A.T.T.R Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: ft lauderdale Posts: 2,724	come build one for me :P im sick of building them and they never turn out that nice __________________ Chris Addicted to the Reef- Current Tank Info: 65 gallon display

09/19/2008, 08:00 AM	#91
TiTAN Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Kildare, Ireland Posts: 260	Looks good.....Wish you all the Best!!

09/19/2008, 03:33 PM	#92
Mr.Furious Premium Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Posts: 166	I dont know if I missed it or not but did you decide on the 50 or 70 gallon rubbermaid tub for use as a sump? Last edited by Mr.Furious; 09/19/2008 at 03:43 PM.

09/20/2008, 02:22 PM	#94
beetlenut33 Reef Engineer Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Chicago Posts: 683	This is a really impressive build. I didn't think it would turn out so nice, but was pleasantly surprised. Great job. __________________ NanoCube 24 Two Hydror Koralia 2s in main display Live Stock: Firefish Goby, Booyah's Onyx Clown Pair Current Tank Info: NanoCube 24 with 150w MH Viper

09/21/2008, 10:06 AM	#95
herpboyben Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Mooresville, NC Posts: 329	wow cant wait to see it full. __________________ Will work for frags PBITAWA Current Tank Info: 30g frag tank, 45 hex reef, 180g reef in the works

09/21/2008, 11:39 AM	#96
Jester Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: Va Beach, Va.... Posts: 802	looking good... fill that tank up..!!!! __________________ click my "little red house" for my 29gallon SPS tank build... 30 gallon breeder prop tank build started... soon to be added to my build above... Current Tank Info: 29 gallon drilled and plumbed thru-wall, Custom 10 gallon sump/fuge, Gen-X 4100 return, 2 Tunze Nanostream 6025s, AquaEuro Recirc 135 skimmer, 150watt HQI 14K Pheonix MH w/ 2x55watt PC lighting, lebos Lunar lights, 45#s live Rock, 20#s live sand...

09/21/2008, 07:38 PM	#97
SoFloReefer Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: West Palm Beach Posts: 652	Update I ordered my lights today from aquacave.com- I ordered a 400 watt Icecap Ballast, a 12K Reeflux Bulb, and a LumenMax Reflector (22.25"x22.25"x8'). I am going to work on the sump soon. This is a picture I just drew up in paint. The two overflows will go into the 9" square bubble tower that will rise above the sump and hold live rock rubble. The overflows will go directly into a 7" 200 micron filter sock then flow through the rock rubble before flowing out the bottom of the tower. There will be live rock in the area surrounding the bubble tower. The water will then flow through the three baffles (bubble traps). The water will go over the first baffle, under the second baffle, and over the third. The water will then flow through more live rock and towards the return and refugium area. There will be two more baffles before the return intake. The water will flow over the first and under the second baffle before entering the intake to the return pump. The black line that separates the right half of the sump will be a 5 inch high baffle that will hold in 4" of sand. There will be some mangroves planted in this area. There will be Chaetomorpha in all areas that have live rock and live sand after the bubble trap. There will be a 36" twin bulb T5 fixture above the sump. One bulb will be 10K, one will be 6500K. Im thinking for flow in the main tank I will use 2 Koralia 4s (controllable) and 2 Koralia Magnum 8s. The 2 Magnums will be below the eggcrate racks and angled down at 10 degrees to keep any detritus from settling on the tank bottom. The 2 Koralia 4s will be above the egg crate pointed 5 degrees up to create a choppy surface and keep flow over the frags. I want to build a controller to control all four Koralias. Last edited by SoFloReefer; 09/21/2008 at 08:13 PM.

09/22/2008, 07:13 AM	#98
marino420td Premium Member Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Cape Girardeau, MO Posts: 2,478	Great Build! Just thought I would show you how I fought bubbles in my sump. I made bubble towers from large diameter pvc in which my overflows flow into. There are small openings cut into the bottom of the towers for the water to exit while most of the bubbles rise to the top and burst. Some bubbles make their way into the sump but I have a live rock wall to stop them. I also used a pvc elbow and pipe to extend the return to the opposite end of the sump. I'm interested to see how you install baffles into the sump. I didn't think I could get them secured in so I went this route.

09/22/2008, 10:58 AM	#99
SoFloReefer Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: West Palm Beach Posts: 652	How much flow goes into your sump? __________________ 40 breeder Zoanthid and Ricordea dominated tank with LED lighting.

09/22/2008, 12:01 PM	#100
marino420td Premium Member Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Cape Girardeau, MO Posts: 2,478	I would guess around 1000 gph but it is split 3 ways- return from tank, return from refuge and return from direct feed skimmer.