DIY Swirler Stein - Page 2

miwoodar · 10/05/2008, 11:32 AM

Cool - sounds like a good plan. I have a streamed AC802 that I want to mount to my next one. Can you post a pic of the connection to the powerhead once done? I haven't quite figured out how I want to mount it yet.

dngspot · 10/05/2008, 11:51 AM

The mount seen in the pic is what I am using currently. The mount is made from plastic shower heads I have found at ACE Hardware. Top piece is the part of the shower head that screws into a pipe. It is 1/2 inch npt. That will be the piece that will screw onto the down pipe. The wider apron use to be part of the shower head that is cut away. That will be the piece that will connect to the suction cup frame that came with the AC 70/802. This will allow me to aim the power head at an adjustable angle and change the arc direction at the pump. I hope that is clear enough. I will post pics at the project moves on.

Does anyone know of a paint that will stick to PVC?

miwoodar · 10/05/2008, 11:57 AM

Was that your DIY thread about using showhead nozzles to mount powerheads a few months back? Good method.

You can paint PVC with Krylon Fusion paint. My Home Depot does not carry it. Ace Hardware and Sherwin Williams do though.

dngspot · 10/05/2008, 12:00 PM

I did not start that thread but did post on it. You can find it a WalMart also.
I have used Krylon in the past but it pealed off. I did not sand the pieces before. I will do that next.

customcolor · 10/05/2008, 12:17 PM

try putting on the purple pvc primmer on first. that works for me. the primmer take off all the mold release that still on the pvc and opens up the pores. that should do it for ya.

dngspot · 10/05/2008, 06:15 PM

Sounds good, I will try it.

SWINGRRRR · 10/06/2008, 06:30 AM

I got the Frigidaire motor off Ebay. They only had one available. I wanted to make 2, but I can live with one for now. Ill post pics when I get it going.

dngspot · 10/13/2008, 08:01 PM

I just sort of finished one of the guys that will be rotating my AC70 mods.

I cut a piece of 1/2 inch grey pvc for the down tube. I cut rings from a 1/2 inch coupler. I drilled a hole in a 2X4X4 plastic box for the down tube. I cut another 1/2 inch coupler and dremeled out the center so the down tube would slide easily. I then took one of the rings and slid it down the down tube about 1/2 inch and glued it. I took the two halves of the coupler and glued one on the out side and one on the inside over the hole drilled for the down tube. I used a piece of scrap pvc to align the pieces.

I cut from a sheet of 1/8 inch thick white acrylic the arm for the motor and the ring with a arm for the down tube. I used a dremel to cut out the cross for the motor and the down tube ring. I went to the hobby store and bought tie rod ends and all thread. That is the black arm in the pic.

The electrical wire is for testing eventually the wire from the power heads will come up from the inside of the down tube and attached to the wires from the motor. Only one wire will be leaving the box.

I still need to make the attachments for the power heads they will happen this weekend.

It rotates 90 deg.

As mentioned earlier, I ordered the motors from EBay; the rest came from Home Depot. I used Super Glue Gel for the whole project.

The items on top of the box are the arm and ring for the next box.

MeuserReef · 10/13/2008, 08:46 PM

Quote:

It rotates 90 deg.

How easy are these things to "dial in" when setting the rotation degree? I've purchased a motor from eBay and would like to make a swirler-stein to rotate a modded Tunze 6025 180Â° along the bottom of my (barebottom) tank. The hope is that the 6025 will keep the deutritus from building up on the bottom of the tank.

Awesome work, BTW. This is a really cool project. Thanks again miwoodar for sharing this!

customcolor · 10/13/2008, 09:20 PM

just make the arm on the motor longer i do beleave

DeathWish302 · 10/13/2008, 10:13 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by MeuserReef
How easy are these things to "dial in" when setting the rotation degree? I've purchased a motor from eBay and would like to make a swirler-stein to rotate a modded Tunze 6025 180Â° along the bottom of my (barebottom) tank. The hope is that the 6025 will keep the deutritus from building up on the bottom of the tank.

Awesome work, BTW. This is a really cool project. Thanks again miwoodar for sharing this!

These mechanisms are 4-Bar linkage systems and are VERY easy to customize to your liking. I have a nifty program (Four Bar Linkage) that can solve your problem the first time. You only need to know some inputs (crank length, ground length, coupler length, and angles of these wrt the ground) to calculate specific motions. There is some technical jargon (Grashof vs. Non-Grashof systems), but for the most part the model is simplictic. Other than just doing it for you, there is really no easy way to explain the process other than learning the methodology behind the calculation. Here is a good place to start to fine-tune your rotation design the FIRST time.

4 Bar Linkage Analysis

HTH,
DW302

miwoodar · 10/13/2008, 11:19 PM

dngspot - that is way cleaner than any of mine!

Nice link DW302 - I am going to play with that before I make my next SS.

dngspot · 10/14/2008, 05:51 AM

I can shorten the tie rod to reduce the arc, to about 30 degrees. If I make it any longer it travels over center and binds.
I do not think that it looks any better than what I have seen on the thread, miwoodar you did a great job. These things take a little patience and my hat is off to any one who is willing to sit for a couple of hours to make one.

Spartan · 10/28/2008, 09:43 PM

I am really glad this thread was resurrected.

A few questions:

-is the rc car tie arm from the motor to the pipe needed or can this be fabricated from acrylic also?
-is it necessary to rewire the plug for the mj or can you just run it down along the back of the pipe? Or up through the pipe and then into and out of the box?
-for those of us totally unfamiliar with wiring (and not wanting to burn our house down) can you detail how the wiring is done for the motor?

I guess a step by step idiot proof (or nearly so) assembly guide would be an awesome help. Much thx!!!

Spartan · 10/28/2008, 09:43 PM

I am really glad this thread was resurrected.

A few questions:

-is the rc car tie arm from the motor to the pipe needed or can this be fabricated from acrylic also?
-is it necessary to rewire the plug for the mj or can you just run it down along the back of the pipe? Or up through the pipe and then into and out of the box?
-for those of us totally unfamiliar with wiring (and not wanting to burn our house down) can you detail how the wiring is done for the motor?

I guess a step by step idiot proof (or nearly so) assembly guide would be an awesome help. Much thx!!!

dngspot · 10/29/2008, 06:42 AM

The rc car arm makes it easy to make adjustments but, you can fab an arm.
You can run the wire outside for the pump. I would zip tie it to the down pipe and not bring it into the box though.
Some of the people wire the motor with solderless connectors, the type that are crimped on the wire. I will be soldering them on the connectors and then use heat shrink to cover the soldered area.

miwoodar · 10/29/2008, 09:46 AM

I ran my wires down the pipe and used solderless connectors. I like the connectors because it allows me to remove the MJ any time I need to.

I can understand your interest in not burning down your house. I was initially hesitant to cut my wires too. However, you're just cutting two wires and reconnecting them after threading the ends through the pipe. It's not like you need to run any 'new' wires. I'm glad I did it.

dngspot · 10/29/2008, 11:10 AM

I am not so worried about removing the powerhead from the unit. The way I am going to attach the powerhead will require me to remove the whole thing anyway.

Spartan · 10/29/2008, 12:04 PM

OK.
Again, pardon my ignorance here. For the wire from the motor, I imagine this is a wire with a plug on the end of it which you splice to the motor? Assuming that's correct, a plug has a larger and a smaller prong, each of which is connected to a wire inside the cord separated by a seam along the axis of the wire - does it matter which wire is connected to which part of the motor?

dngspot · 10/29/2008, 01:22 PM

The larger blade is neutral and the smaller is live. On the motor it does not mater what wire goes to what connector.

Spartan · 10/29/2008, 02:12 PM

Thx! I'm going to hunt for a motor and get started.

chieuxuan · 10/30/2008, 08:15 AM

nice thread, following along with all pics and result then start mine........8-)

Spartan · 10/30/2008, 08:28 PM

Found this on ebay (same as dngspots):
http://cgi.ebay.com/5304448488-Micro...3286.m20.l1116
About $10 to buy now.
any issue with heat?

miwoodar · 10/30/2008, 11:06 PM

Looks like the right motor.

Gear motors run hot. It's the way they are made. I can touch mine but not for long.

james3370 · 10/31/2008, 02:01 AM

i seem to remember seeing something of this fashion that somebody made from one of those cheap clip-on desk fans....but can't for the life of me find it

10/05/2008, 11:32 AM	#26
miwoodar Likey the bikey Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Colorado Posts: 3,374	Cool - sounds like a good plan. I have a streamed AC802 that I want to mount to my next one. Can you post a pic of the connection to the powerhead once done? I haven't quite figured out how I want to mount it yet. __________________ Mike “It is by riding a bicycle that you learn the contours of a country best, since you have to sweat up the hills and coast down them. Thus you remember them as they actually are..." Ernest Hemingway Current Tank Info: 140 DIY Cube

10/05/2008, 11:51 AM	#27
dngspot Premium Member Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Kansas Posts: 851	The mount seen in the pic is what I am using currently. The mount is made from plastic shower heads I have found at ACE Hardware. Top piece is the part of the shower head that screws into a pipe. It is 1/2 inch npt. That will be the piece that will screw onto the down pipe. The wider apron use to be part of the shower head that is cut away. That will be the piece that will connect to the suction cup frame that came with the AC 70/802. This will allow me to aim the power head at an adjustable angle and change the arc direction at the pump. I hope that is clear enough. I will post pics at the project moves on. Does anyone know of a paint that will stick to PVC? __________________ A real man builds it... Then his wife shows him what he did wrong. Current Tank Info: 210 RR, 75G sump, 350lbs DIY rock, DIY dual chamber calcium reactor, 7500 gph flow

10/05/2008, 11:57 AM	#28
miwoodar Likey the bikey Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Colorado Posts: 3,374	Was that your DIY thread about using showhead nozzles to mount powerheads a few months back? Good method. You can paint PVC with Krylon Fusion paint. My Home Depot does not carry it. Ace Hardware and Sherwin Williams do though. __________________ Mike “It is by riding a bicycle that you learn the contours of a country best, since you have to sweat up the hills and coast down them. Thus you remember them as they actually are..." Ernest Hemingway Current Tank Info: 140 DIY Cube

10/05/2008, 12:00 PM	#29
dngspot Premium Member Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Kansas Posts: 851	I did not start that thread but did post on it. You can find it a WalMart also. I have used Krylon in the past but it pealed off. I did not sand the pieces before. I will do that next. __________________ A real man builds it... Then his wife shows him what he did wrong. Current Tank Info: 210 RR, 75G sump, 350lbs DIY rock, DIY dual chamber calcium reactor, 7500 gph flow Last edited by dngspot; 10/05/2008 at 12:06 PM.

10/05/2008, 12:17 PM	#30
customcolor Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: kaukauna, wi. Posts: 3,881	try putting on the purple pvc primmer on first. that works for me. the primmer take off all the mold release that still on the pvc and opens up the pores. that should do it for ya. __________________ PLEASE DONT USE GREAT STUFF (THE YELLOW STUFF) IN YOUR TANK........USE POND FOAM (THE BLACK STUFF).. I BEG YOU! Great stuff====$5 a can 24-48 hour cure Epoxy to cover it====little as $5 for small projects or up to $100+ for larger projects and another 24-48 hour cure I hope you covered it well cuz if you didnt it will start to break down in a few months sand is another added cost to cover up the yellow. Pond foams====$9-$15 a can 24-48 hour cure DONE! You can cover it with sand if you want to (YOU DONT HAVE TO) though but thats added cost again Current Tank Info: 75 gal under way

10/05/2008, 06:15 PM	#31
dngspot Premium Member Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Kansas Posts: 851	Sounds good, I will try it. __________________ A real man builds it... Then his wife shows him what he did wrong. Current Tank Info: 210 RR, 75G sump, 350lbs DIY rock, DIY dual chamber calcium reactor, 7500 gph flow

10/06/2008, 06:30 AM	#32
SWINGRRRR Premium Member Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Pcola FL Posts: 2,569	I got the Frigidaire motor off Ebay. They only had one available. I wanted to make 2, but I can live with one for now. Ill post pics when I get it going. __________________ Have you ever tried to hold a monkey still if it is not drunk ~ insteng Current Tank Info: 45gal Rimless mixed reef--SWC 150BMK--2xMP10ESW--Giesemann 150W HQI

10/13/2008, 08:01 PM	#33
dngspot Premium Member Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Kansas Posts: 851	I just sort of finished one of the guys that will be rotating my AC70 mods. I cut a piece of 1/2 inch grey pvc for the down tube. I cut rings from a 1/2 inch coupler. I drilled a hole in a 2X4X4 plastic box for the down tube. I cut another 1/2 inch coupler and dremeled out the center so the down tube would slide easily. I then took one of the rings and slid it down the down tube about 1/2 inch and glued it. I took the two halves of the coupler and glued one on the out side and one on the inside over the hole drilled for the down tube. I used a piece of scrap pvc to align the pieces. I cut from a sheet of 1/8 inch thick white acrylic the arm for the motor and the ring with a arm for the down tube. I used a dremel to cut out the cross for the motor and the down tube ring. I went to the hobby store and bought tie rod ends and all thread. That is the black arm in the pic. The electrical wire is for testing eventually the wire from the power heads will come up from the inside of the down tube and attached to the wires from the motor. Only one wire will be leaving the box. I still need to make the attachments for the power heads they will happen this weekend. It rotates 90 deg. As mentioned earlier, I ordered the motors from EBay; the rest came from Home Depot. I used Super Glue Gel for the whole project. The items on top of the box are the arm and ring for the next box. __________________ A real man builds it... Then his wife shows him what he did wrong. Current Tank Info: 210 RR, 75G sump, 350lbs DIY rock, DIY dual chamber calcium reactor, 7500 gph flow

10/13/2008, 09:20 PM	#35
customcolor Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: kaukauna, wi. Posts: 3,881	just make the arm on the motor longer i do beleave __________________ PLEASE DONT USE GREAT STUFF (THE YELLOW STUFF) IN YOUR TANK........USE POND FOAM (THE BLACK STUFF).. I BEG YOU! Great stuff====$5 a can 24-48 hour cure Epoxy to cover it====little as $5 for small projects or up to $100+ for larger projects and another 24-48 hour cure I hope you covered it well cuz if you didnt it will start to break down in a few months sand is another added cost to cover up the yellow. Pond foams====$9-$15 a can 24-48 hour cure DONE! You can cover it with sand if you want to (YOU DONT HAVE TO) though but thats added cost again Current Tank Info: 75 gal under way

10/13/2008, 11:19 PM	#37
miwoodar Likey the bikey Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Colorado Posts: 3,374	dngspot - that is way cleaner than any of mine! Nice link DW302 - I am going to play with that before I make my next SS. __________________ Mike “It is by riding a bicycle that you learn the contours of a country best, since you have to sweat up the hills and coast down them. Thus you remember them as they actually are..." Ernest Hemingway Current Tank Info: 140 DIY Cube

10/14/2008, 05:51 AM	#38
dngspot Premium Member Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Kansas Posts: 851	I can shorten the tie rod to reduce the arc, to about 30 degrees. If I make it any longer it travels over center and binds. I do not think that it looks any better than what I have seen on the thread, miwoodar you did a great job. These things take a little patience and my hat is off to any one who is willing to sit for a couple of hours to make one. __________________ A real man builds it... Then his wife shows him what he did wrong. Current Tank Info: 210 RR, 75G sump, 350lbs DIY rock, DIY dual chamber calcium reactor, 7500 gph flow

10/28/2008, 09:43 PM	#39
Spartan Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Western New York Posts: 475	I am really glad this thread was resurrected. A few questions: -is the rc car tie arm from the motor to the pipe needed or can this be fabricated from acrylic also? -is it necessary to rewire the plug for the mj or can you just run it down along the back of the pipe? Or up through the pipe and then into and out of the box? -for those of us totally unfamiliar with wiring (and not wanting to burn our house down) can you detail how the wiring is done for the motor? I guess a step by step idiot proof (or nearly so) assembly guide would be an awesome help. Much thx!!!

10/29/2008, 06:42 AM	#41
dngspot Premium Member Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Kansas Posts: 851	The rc car arm makes it easy to make adjustments but, you can fab an arm. You can run the wire outside for the pump. I would zip tie it to the down pipe and not bring it into the box though. Some of the people wire the motor with solderless connectors, the type that are crimped on the wire. I will be soldering them on the connectors and then use heat shrink to cover the soldered area. __________________ A real man builds it... Then his wife shows him what he did wrong. Current Tank Info: 210 RR, 75G sump, 350lbs DIY rock, DIY dual chamber calcium reactor, 7500 gph flow

10/29/2008, 09:46 AM	#42
miwoodar Likey the bikey Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Colorado Posts: 3,374	I ran my wires down the pipe and used solderless connectors. I like the connectors because it allows me to remove the MJ any time I need to. I can understand your interest in not burning down your house. I was initially hesitant to cut my wires too. However, you're just cutting two wires and reconnecting them after threading the ends through the pipe. It's not like you need to run any 'new' wires. I'm glad I did it. __________________ Mike “It is by riding a bicycle that you learn the contours of a country best, since you have to sweat up the hills and coast down them. Thus you remember them as they actually are..." Ernest Hemingway Current Tank Info: 140 DIY Cube

10/29/2008, 11:10 AM	#43
dngspot Premium Member Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Kansas Posts: 851	I am not so worried about removing the powerhead from the unit. The way I am going to attach the powerhead will require me to remove the whole thing anyway. __________________ A real man builds it... Then his wife shows him what he did wrong. Current Tank Info: 210 RR, 75G sump, 350lbs DIY rock, DIY dual chamber calcium reactor, 7500 gph flow

10/29/2008, 12:04 PM	#44
Spartan Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Western New York Posts: 475	OK. Again, pardon my ignorance here. For the wire from the motor, I imagine this is a wire with a plug on the end of it which you splice to the motor? Assuming that's correct, a plug has a larger and a smaller prong, each of which is connected to a wire inside the cord separated by a seam along the axis of the wire - does it matter which wire is connected to which part of the motor? __________________ Reef since 95'. 180g, 100g sump, 55 g refuge Current Tank Info: 180g, 100g sump, 55 g refuge

10/29/2008, 01:22 PM	#45
dngspot Premium Member Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Kansas Posts: 851	The larger blade is neutral and the smaller is live. On the motor it does not mater what wire goes to what connector. __________________ A real man builds it... Then his wife shows him what he did wrong. Current Tank Info: 210 RR, 75G sump, 350lbs DIY rock, DIY dual chamber calcium reactor, 7500 gph flow

10/29/2008, 02:12 PM	#46
Spartan Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Western New York Posts: 475	Thx! I'm going to hunt for a motor and get started. __________________ Reef since 95'. 180g, 100g sump, 55 g refuge Current Tank Info: 180g, 100g sump, 55 g refuge

10/30/2008, 08:15 AM	#47
chieuxuan Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Posts: 230	nice thread, following along with all pics and result then start mine........8-)

10/30/2008, 08:28 PM	#48
Spartan Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Western New York Posts: 475	Found this on ebay (same as dngspots): http://cgi.ebay.com/5304448488-Micro...3286.m20.l1116 About $10 to buy now. any issue with heat? __________________ Reef since 95'. 180g, 100g sump, 55 g refuge Current Tank Info: 180g, 100g sump, 55 g refuge

10/30/2008, 11:06 PM	#49
miwoodar Likey the bikey Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Colorado Posts: 3,374	Looks like the right motor. Gear motors run hot. It's the way they are made. I can touch mine but not for long. __________________ Mike “It is by riding a bicycle that you learn the contours of a country best, since you have to sweat up the hills and coast down them. Thus you remember them as they actually are..." Ernest Hemingway Current Tank Info: 140 DIY Cube

10/31/2008, 02:01 AM	#50
james3370 Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: US ARMY - El Paso TX Posts: 3,688	i seem to remember seeing something of this fashion that somebody made from one of those cheap clip-on desk fans....but can't for the life of me find it __________________ Yes I hear voices in my head, but they speak spanish so I can't understand anything they say. there's no place like 127.0.0.1 It's a shame that stupidity isn't painful.... Current Tank Info: currently tankless....but planning an AIO