DIY Stands Template and Calculator - Page 127

RocketEngineer · 12/23/2013, 01:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by limitedslip

Here the mockup for my 45cube stand.
I did have a question though. Do you believe I need to add more vertical support?
I currently have four vertical 2x4s, one 1/2 inch plywood attached to back, and two 1/2 inch plywood attached to top and bottom.

Horizontal supports

You don't need to add vertical supports, you need to put the vertical supports UNDER the horizontal supports. Right now the only thing keeping the tank off the floor are the nails.

SPotter · 12/25/2013, 07:45 PM

just got a kreg pocket hole jig kit for xmas. Ive read mixed information about whether or not you have to use their screws or can you use any screw you want? If you I have to use their screws, are they strong enough for our applications when it comes to building a stand for a tank?

RocketEngineer · 12/25/2013, 09:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SPotter

just got a kreg pocket hole jig kit for xmas. Ive read mixed information about whether or not you have to use their screws or can you use any screw you want? If you I have to use their screws, are they strong enough for our applications when it comes to building a stand for a tank?

Do you absolutely, no substitutions allowed, have to use their screws....No

However, their screws have a couple advantages. First, they are flat under the head of the screw vs conical like a deck screw. This means that when the screw is driven in tight, the flat underside of the screw sits against the flat bottom of the pocket hole. If you use a regular deck screw the conical shape will act like a wedge and split the board. Also the square drive combined with the long square drive bit makes them easier to install than a Phillips bit. The points of the screws are self-tapping so they are much less likely to split boards. Just make sure you get the correct kind as the various lengths as well as coarse vs. fine thread versions all have different applications. Lengths are dependent on the thickness of the material while the threads are based on the type of wood you will be working with. It all matters so using their screws just makes the whole process easier.

Kreg brand screws are plenty strong enough for this application. Since the load is being taken by the lumber and not the screws, all the screws do is hold the boards in place. A little glue and the screws become redundant once the glue dries. By using pocket screws, you can eliminate the green boards from the plan and have more space for equipment.

HTH,

SPotter · 12/26/2013, 06:52 AM

Rocket….thank you for that very helpful answer!

limitedslip · 12/28/2013, 12:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RocketEngineer

You don't need to add vertical supports, you need to put the vertical supports UNDER the horizontal supports. Right now the only thing keeping the tank off the floor are the nails.

Thanks RocketEngineer,

One more questions though.

My stand is essentially a clone TheDoogan's stand, the structure is exactly the same as his, but is kinda hard to see as I took pictures after I applied the plywood (see a picture of his stand below). Are additional verticals still needed in this style frame?

justa210 · 12/28/2013, 02:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fairladyZ

well i finally got some time to work on my stand this weekend. it's been a slow process and i ran into a couple hiccups with bad measurements but it all came out in the wash!

i'll probably spend some time sanding it down this week and filling the nail holes and cracks.. then hopefully this weekend i will stain it.. Still haven't decided if i'm going to attempt the doors or just buy built ones... I'm happy with it so far atleast.

That looks great!

RocketEngineer · 12/28/2013, 04:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by limitedslip

Thanks RocketEngineer,

One more questions though.

My stand is essentially a clone TheDoogan's stand, the structure is exactly the same as his, but is kinda hard to see as I took pictures after I applied the plywood (see a picture of his stand below). Are additional verticals still needed in this style frame?

What transfers the load of the tank to the floor? In that design it looks like the tank is sitting on a frame that has nothing directly under it. It may be that the legs in each corner directly sit under the corners of the tank but there is nothing transferring the load from the frame into the legs. That is my issue with that design.

tmscube · 12/28/2013, 04:58 PM

heres is my DIY stand ..

limitedslip · 12/29/2013, 05:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RocketEngineer

What transfers the load of the tank to the floor? In that design it looks like the tank is sitting on a frame that has nothing directly under it. It may be that the legs in each corner directly sit under the corners of the tank but there is nothing transferring the load from the frame into the legs. That is my issue with that design.

Added some supports as you recommended. Here is how it looks with the magnetic front door. Need to decide on color now.

nnewhouse · 12/31/2013, 09:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DivingTheWorld

Here's a couple pictures of the furniture I'm trying to make the stand look similar to. Any woodworking experts out there who can make a stab at what kind of wood it is?

Attachment 252448

Attachment 252450

Attachment 252451

I would say best guess from the pics is birch.

ebond009 · 12/31/2013, 08:43 PM

Hey guys. Quick question, I'm building my stand for the 190, 60"x27"x27". My floor is out of level from left to right.over the 5' span 3/8".its a concrete slab. Should I rip my bottom of stand at an angle to accomidate slope and keep top level? Or should I build square and shim to level right before I nail baseboard? Thanks guys!

Powederblue · 12/31/2013, 09:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RicoJ

Looks like you used 2x6 for the top and bottom and supporting with 2x4. Could you have gotten away with just doing the top with 2x6 and the rest with 2x4?

Yes very well could have. But I wanted the added height of the 2x6 on the bottom.

ebond009 · 01/01/2014, 01:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ebond009

Hey guys. Quick question, I'm building my stand for the 190, 60"x27"x27". My floor is out of level from left to right.over the 5' span 3/8".its a concrete slab. Should I rip my bottom of stand at an angle to accomidate slope and keep top level? Or should I build square and shim to level right before I nail baseboard? Thanks guys!

Anybody?

jefnalyssa · 01/01/2014, 02:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ebond009

Hey guys. Quick question, I'm building my stand for the 190, 60"x27"x27". My floor is out of level from left to right.over the 5' span 3/8".its a concrete slab. Should I rip my bottom of stand at an angle to accomidate slope and keep top level? Or should I build square and shim to level right before I nail baseboard? Thanks guys!

I would build the stand true. You can shim as needed.

Mctecnica · 01/02/2014, 08:14 PM

Should I be measuring the dimensions of the actual glass or the dimensions of the plastic frame? I know it seems like a silly question but I don't want to use the glass dimensions and then have the plastic hanging over the edge.

RocketEngineer · 01/02/2014, 08:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mctecnica

Should I be measuring the dimensions of the actual glass or the dimensions of the plastic frame? I know it seems like a silly question but I don't want to use the glass dimensions and then have the plastic hanging over the edge.

You need to use the dimensions of the plastic as the glass sits on that. That's the main reason I recommend the stand is 1/2" longer and wider than the tank is to account for the plastic frame.

nogascans · 01/04/2014, 10:04 PM

I have a question about a stand I want to build for a 60 marineland cube. I have studied some nice cube stand builds, and have the basics in my head as well as on paper. I am planning on a slightly larger stand at 31x31 compared to tank 24x24, and would use the base, uprights (Kreg screws), and top with 3/4" plywood. Plan on skinning the stand with 1/4".

My question is this. Could I use a piece of 3/4" plywood on top of 2x4 base, using a flush router bit to frame dimensions, and then mount legs on top of this. I am trying to eliminate a rough cut as well as rough fit for shelf for sump. I would also plan on using glue throughout.

If I understand correctly, I want load for tank from top thru legs to floor.

My idea would be tank>3/4 plywood top>2x4 top frame>legs>plywood base>2x4 base frame>floor.

Just not sure if the piece of 3/4" between base and leg bottom affect stand integrity. Is this OK or am I missing something.

Thanks in advance for responses.

Sincerely,

David

trinidiver · 01/05/2014, 06:03 AM

Very interesting Thread.......

weldfab · 01/05/2014, 06:39 AM

hi all, im new to the board but thought i would share my build. it took about 3 months off and on to build. here are a few pics.

weldfab · 01/05/2014, 06:45 AM

more pics

weldfab · 01/05/2014, 06:54 AM

finished pics
the last pics has a cabinet on left that was not part of my original plan. had to add for skimmer and chemicals and what ever else goodies i can put in there. thinking of adding another cabinet to right side.

Fail_sh3d · 01/05/2014, 12:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nogascans

I have a question about a stand I want to build for a 60 marineland cube. I have studied some nice cube stand builds, and have the basics in my head as well as on paper. I am planning on a slightly larger stand at 31x31 compared to tank 24x24, and would use the base, uprights (Kreg screws), and top with 3/4" plywood. Plan on skinning the stand with 1/4".

My question is this. Could I use a piece of 3/4" plywood on top of 2x4 base, using a flush router bit to frame dimensions, and then mount legs on top of this. I am trying to eliminate a rough cut as well as rough fit for shelf for sump. I would also plan on using glue throughout.

If I understand correctly, I want load for tank from top thru legs to floor.

My idea would be tank>3/4 plywood top>2x4 top frame>legs>plywood base>2x4 base frame>floor.

Just not sure if the piece of 3/4" between base and leg bottom affect stand integrity. Is this OK or am I missing something.

Thanks in advance for responses.

Sincerely,

David

I would like to know as well.

nogascans · 01/08/2014, 11:14 AM

"Bump"

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fail_sh3d

I would like to know as well.

jefnalyssa · 01/09/2014, 05:44 PM

The weight of the tank would be supported fine. It's no different then the tank on top of the plywood up top. The part that worries me is if the stand would rack. You would have to cross brace it. Or the other option is when you skin it. Make sure the skin would extend across the joints and fastened properly.

Wombat_101 · 01/09/2014, 08:53 PM

Hi I am getting back into the hobby and have built a stand slightly modified from RocketEngineer's design to be in-wall.
The tank will be 72" long x 30" deep x 27" High with external overflows. It is 250 Gallons approx and will be a flat bottom glass tank made by Coast to Coast Aquariums.
The Stand sits at 38" High. The Top construction is 2x8 and the top is 3/4 oak plywood. Covered in Behr Exterior paint.
The stand is not completed yet as I still need to add the additional purple legs.
Please see attached images and let me know if you think this stand will work or do I need to add/modify anything.
Thanks
Greg

12/25/2013, 07:45 PM	#3152
SPotter Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Mt. Pleasant, SC Posts: 5,691	just got a kreg pocket hole jig kit for xmas. Ive read mixed information about whether or not you have to use their screws or can you use any screw you want? If you I have to use their screws, are they strong enough for our applications when it comes to building a stand for a tank? __________________ Steve Am I really doing all of this for a fish tank?????? Current Tank Info: 360g Envision Acrylic Tank, Closed Loops, Vectra L1's, MP40QD's, 400w Radiums, Regal 300ext, Dastaco Ext3 CaRx, Controlled by GHL Profilux

12/26/2013, 06:52 AM	#3154
SPotter Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Mt. Pleasant, SC Posts: 5,691	Rocket….thank you for that very helpful answer! __________________ Steve Am I really doing all of this for a fish tank?????? Current Tank Info: 360g Envision Acrylic Tank, Closed Loops, Vectra L1's, MP40QD's, 400w Radiums, Regal 300ext, Dastaco Ext3 CaRx, Controlled by GHL Profilux

01/05/2014, 06:03 AM	#3168
trinidiver Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Sweet Trinidad & Tobago. (West Indies) Posts: 1,141	Very interesting Thread....... __________________ Always expect anything from your friends......they will shoot you down as they get a chance. Current Tank Info: Its a 220gal reef.......LPS/leathers/zoas. Check my album.

01/09/2014, 05:44 PM	#3174
jefnalyssa Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Reading,Pa Posts: 437	The weight of the tank would be supported fine. It's no different then the tank on top of the plywood up top. The part that worries me is if the stand would rack. You would have to cross brace it. Or the other option is when you skin it. Make sure the skin would extend across the joints and fastened properly. __________________ Lead Follow or get out of the way Current Tank Info: Aquapod 24,120 tech in the works

12/31/2013, 08:43 PM	#3161
ebond009 Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2012 Posts: 164	Hey guys. Quick question, I'm building my stand for the 190, 60"x27"x27". My floor is out of level from left to right.over the 5' span 3/8".its a concrete slab. Should I rip my bottom of stand at an angle to accomidate slope and keep top level? Or should I build square and shim to level right before I nail baseboard? Thanks guys!

01/02/2014, 08:14 PM	#3165
Mctecnica Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2013 Location: South Shore, MA Posts: 7	Should I be measuring the dimensions of the actual glass or the dimensions of the plastic frame? I know it seems like a silly question but I don't want to use the glass dimensions and then have the plastic hanging over the edge.

01/04/2014, 10:04 PM	#3167
nogascans Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: Jesup, Georgia (USA) Posts: 387	I have a question about a stand I want to build for a 60 marineland cube. I have studied some nice cube stand builds, and have the basics in my head as well as on paper. I am planning on a slightly larger stand at 31x31 compared to tank 24x24, and would use the base, uprights (Kreg screws), and top with 3/4" plywood. Plan on skinning the stand with 1/4". My question is this. Could I use a piece of 3/4" plywood on top of 2x4 base, using a flush router bit to frame dimensions, and then mount legs on top of this. I am trying to eliminate a rough cut as well as rough fit for shelf for sump. I would also plan on using glue throughout. If I understand correctly, I want load for tank from top thru legs to floor. My idea would be tank>3/4 plywood top>2x4 top frame>legs>plywood base>2x4 base frame>floor. Just not sure if the piece of 3/4" between base and leg bottom affect stand integrity. Is this OK or am I missing something. Thanks in advance for responses. Sincerely, David

01/09/2014, 08:53 PM	#3175
Wombat_101 Reefer Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Long Island Posts: 281	Hi I am getting back into the hobby and have built a stand slightly modified from RocketEngineer's design to be in-wall. The tank will be 72" long x 30" deep x 27" High with external overflows. It is 250 Gallons approx and will be a flat bottom glass tank made by Coast to Coast Aquariums. The Stand sits at 38" High. The Top construction is 2x8 and the top is 3/4 oak plywood. Covered in Behr Exterior paint. The stand is not completed yet as I still need to add the additional purple legs. Please see attached images and let me know if you think this stand will work or do I need to add/modify anything. Thanks Greg