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Old 01/18/2010, 08:54 PM   #51
HumbleLobster
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Bump to the top for some more setups!


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Old 01/19/2010, 01:38 AM   #52
MATT CLOWNS
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Salt mixage

Ok mine got down sized but here it is


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Old 01/19/2010, 01:40 AM   #53
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It is hard to shower around. Lol. We just never that shower that one


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Old 01/19/2010, 04:17 PM   #54
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I love this thread too. I'm definitely going to plagiarize a number of these ideas for the finishing touch on the "chore minimization" aspect of water changes, for which I've already used PEX tubing to run waste and refill lines to my basement. Keep 'em coming!


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Old 01/19/2010, 04:22 PM   #55
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It is hard to shower around. Lol. We just never that shower that one
Brave, brave man you are. My wife would have my @$$ if I took over a bathtub for my RO setup!!


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Old 01/19/2010, 04:31 PM   #56
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Ha. Ha. Funny.

Last week I was lucky enough to witness Los's water change station. It was very well thought out and super easy to do a water change and all with out shutting down the system.

Thanks for inviting me over Los.


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Old 02/09/2010, 06:48 PM   #57
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i've heard/read the same about brute cans leaching phosphates. I use a brute can for mixing SW and haven't noticed any PO4 issues yet. Has anyone else had any success/failure with this?


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Old 02/09/2010, 10:25 PM   #58
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I am currious about premix station, how long these water last and do you have the pump to circulate them? Because, sometimes I over mixed , have some left, the week after, when cleaned the bucket, I found some kinds of brown algea at the bottom.


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Old 02/10/2010, 10:01 AM   #59
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I would definitly have a pump to circulate the water and a heater in there. As long as you have that it should last a while.


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Old 02/10/2010, 10:05 AM   #60
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i've heard/read the same about brute cans leaching phosphates. I use a brute can for mixing SW and haven't noticed any PO4 issues yet. Has anyone else had any success/failure with this?

I have read a few threads on this topic and the affected people have been very minor. Most people that use these cans report no negative affects from them. There are other options but not as cheap as them. Let us know if you have problems.


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Old 02/10/2010, 02:49 PM   #61
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My set up is not nearly as complex as some of theese. I use 2 32 gallon brute containers with the rolling dollies underneath. I use th RO set-up that is in the house for drinking water to make my water. It has a ten gallon tank so it only takes a minute to fill a bucket for top off and apx 45-60 minutes to fill my can with 25 gallons of water. I then add salt and drop in a submersible pump and heater and let it run in the kitchen overnight. When ready I roll both cans over to the tank. siphon out the old water into one can and then use the subbmersible pump and a hose to refill the tank. It takes about 1 hour total to do a water change. Not the easiest but way better than the old 5 gallon bucket method.


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Old 05/23/2010, 07:14 AM   #62
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Anymore set-ups to show? Thanks for all those who have posted. Very helpful.


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Old 05/23/2010, 05:11 PM   #63
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Nothing special. 2 X 44 gal brute, FW on top, SW on bottom. I just run a 25ft RODI line the house to the tank, and run the drain out the back door for WC's.



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Old 05/24/2010, 11:52 AM   #64
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All these mixing and waterchang stations look great!! all Ive got is a 5 Gallon bucket and a power head


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Old 07/13/2010, 08:10 AM   #65
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Question for you guys running a separate RO/DI reservoir...is the reservoir auto-topped off? If so, how do you have your float valves setup so that the RO/DI unit doesn't come on after the water level has dropped an inch or so.

I'm trying to design a water change/auto-top off setup myself. I will have a 20G long for a ro/di reservoir, and a 20G long for my mixing tank. I'm just not sure how to setup the float valves (don't have a controller) so that the RO/DI doesn't fill the 20G reservoir until it is almost empty.

Sorry for the hijack! I promise I'll show my water change system once I get it setup


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Old 07/13/2010, 08:32 AM   #66
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Question for you guys running a separate RO/DI reservoir...is the reservoir auto-topped off? If so, how do you have your float valves setup so that the RO/DI unit doesn't come on after the water level has dropped an inch or so.
After flooding the garage 15 times, I had to have something fool proof. I have really 3 systems that insure it wont happen again. I have two electrical float switches set-up on a latching relay. They control a solenoid that really controls water flow. If that fails, there is a mechanical float valve and a ASOV. If that fails, well then there's a hole up near the top with a line that goes directly into a drain. Water will simply drain until I notice the failure. So far mine has been bulletproof. Its all automatic.


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Old 08/02/2010, 03:48 PM   #67
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Folks,

On a storage container from Plastic-Mart such as this one:

http://www.plastic-mart.com/class.php?item=213

How did you create another bulkhead to plumb the tank with a pump, etc? Also, how are you heating the water to the correct temp to make saltwater?

Appreciate any advice.

Thanks,
L3


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Old 08/04/2010, 08:30 PM   #68
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Here is my Water mixing station. It has only ben operating for 2 months. Still need to paint the stand with Kilz.






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Old 09/22/2010, 09:42 AM   #69
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Here is mine. With the ball valves I can move water from one tank to the other, pump fresh water to my ATO tank or pump salt water to my sump for water changes.









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Old 09/22/2010, 10:07 AM   #70
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^ very nice.

how do you connect to pump to your sump?


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Old 09/22/2010, 10:54 AM   #71
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^ very nice.

how do you connect to pump to your sump?
The ball valve with nothing connected to it I am going to get a hose for, I just take the hose to my sump, turn it on and fill it up


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Old 09/22/2010, 02:00 PM   #72
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How did you create another bulkhead to plumb the tank with a pump, etc?
Uniseals.

Jeff


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Old 09/22/2010, 02:44 PM   #73
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Very nice thread.

Here's my mixing station. Yes, I'm very messy but nothing leaks

150gpd 5 stage RO/DI feeds into the brute via a float valve in case I forget to shut it off. Also, have a line that runs up to an ATO bucket under the tank.





Used uniseals to go into the brute with 3/4" schd-40 pvc. Mag 1800 is the pump and have it resting on a foam pad so it doesn't vibrate on the floor. I wanted a drain in case I need to empty it out for some reason and can drain the main tank with. The black vinyl tubing goes up to my main tank and fills it up. Takes about a minute to do a water change. I also wanted a station I could fill up a bucket to bring up to my 20g mantis tank.






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Old 09/22/2010, 07:55 PM   #74
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no pics yet as I'm still assembling everything but after seeing Rupes Reef orginial system a few months back I decided to copy the basic setup with a few mods ... My RO/DI system is connected to the HP cold water line underneath the sink in my ultility rm. This utility rm shares a common wall with a storage room off my garage so I ran the output line from my RO/DI out the back of the sink cabinet, behind the washer/dryer in the utlity room & thu the wall into the storage room where I will have a 75g RO/DI storage tank & a 25g saltwater mixing tank. RO/DI enters into the 75g tank from my RO/DI system & then using the same setup of valves & plumbing I'm able to mix up 25g of saltwater at a time. I'll only be diong 15-20g water changes (my tank is a 150).

I haven't decided yet exactly how I'll execute water changes but I'm leaning toward the same method as already posted with 2 small tanks on some sort of cart to wheel over to the tank - do the change & then wheel away.

Got my tanks from Plastic-mart ... the 75g tank should arrive in the next week so once I plump the system I'll try & remember to post some pics ....

great thread idea BTW ...


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Old 09/22/2010, 08:13 PM   #75
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Water change/mixing station

Here is my version. 2 32 gallon rubbermaid containers plumbed for gravity feed from RO storage to Mixing tank.

I drilled overflow lines in case my RO sticks for some reason. The RO water would flow to the mixing tank (I usually mix 1-2 days before WC) and then into my floor drain if both filled to high.

I also stole an idea from my coffee maker for an easy "water fill gauge". It is 1/4 ID tube with a 90 deg barbed fitting. I measured out each gallon and marked it on the side of the container. Easy as pie.

I have my return line plumbed in conjunction with my "fill" line. I flip a switch and open a couple valves and voila. I am pleased with my setup.


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