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Old 12/30/2009, 04:35 PM   #1
psteeleb
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Pete's 110 build

Finally after 6 months I hope to be back with a reef tank. Even though my 29g is technically a reef with LPS and softies it just isn't the same as my old 300. One of these days I plan on setting up another 300+ but decided to with go something smaller for now.

The tank is a used 110 RR peninsula. I plan on giving it a good cleaning, a reseal and plumbing overhaul before I head back to GA on Monday. At first it will be VHO’s with a change out to T5’s and a 250w (or 2 250s) Metal halides. Maybe the light change out will be sooner then later as I already have the MH’s.

The plans are to get it wet by mid January using my existing stock and live rock to minimize severe cycles then start to bring back any surviving livestock that was in the 300 as soon as things appear stable.

More to come

old 300 build log
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh....php?t=1623091


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Old 01/01/2010, 09:53 AM   #2
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Pete man it's been a while and I've been way, so I just heard of the tank leak today. Man I'm so sorry to hear about that. Your 280 was awesome. I'm glade to see your bouncing back. Hopefully you can jump back up the the 300+. I know 110 is nice but once you had a nice large tank like you had it's hard to scale back.


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Old 01/02/2010, 07:58 AM   #3
psteeleb
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eidillitih View Post
Pete man it's been a while and I've been way, so I just heard of the tank leak today. Man I'm so sorry to hear about that. Your 280 was awesome. I'm glade to see your bouncing back. Hopefully you can jump back up the the 300+. I know 110 is nice but once you had a nice large tank like you had it's hard to scale back.
Thanks - I fear the 110 will just make me want to jump in with another 300+. I do have plans for one but need the job situation to keep me in Texas more then I am right now.

These pictures don't do my tank justice but they are some of the last ones that show most of the corals before the seam busted





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Old 01/04/2010, 07:46 AM   #4
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first thing up was a tank reseal

I cut out the old seals and cleaned off the residual silicon. Then masked the corners and applied the new seals. After about 10 minutes I removed the masking tape - if you let it set to long removing the masking tape will peal out the new seals.

masking off corners


new seal



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Old 01/04/2010, 08:04 AM   #5
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here is a picture of the tank - it's visible on 3 sides with a single overflow on the right



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Old 01/04/2010, 08:14 AM   #6
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the tank did come with a sump that I decided to overhaul. I wanted to lower the weirs to provide more surge capacity and increase the skimmer section by an inch. So all the old weirs came out, I then cleaned the tank and glass weirs with a razor blade and scrubbed the surfaces with a Mr Clean Magic Eraser to get rid of residual silicon


old sump


sump cleaned up


the old glass wiers were cut shorter by 3"

masking and sealing in a weir


using 3/4inch pvc pipe for spacers


completed sump overhaul



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Old 01/04/2010, 12:30 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by psteeleb View Post
That is a gorgeous stand! Looks like a pretty shallow hood though, is it open on the top? How is your lighting situation going to work?

Also, what are the dimensions of the tank? Speaking of dimensions, is that sump a 40 breeder or something smaller?


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Old 01/04/2010, 02:08 PM   #8
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hopefully it turns out as good as the old one.


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Old 01/04/2010, 04:17 PM   #9
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Ive got a 110 also, love the tank but hate getting to the bottom to clean the krud. Nice to see others with that tank. Not many out there.


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Old 01/04/2010, 05:46 PM   #10
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wow that was a sweet tank...


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Old 01/04/2010, 06:44 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Taqpol View Post
That is a gorgeous stand! Looks like a pretty shallow hood though, is it open on the top? How is your lighting situation going to work?

Also, what are the dimensions of the tank? Speaking of dimensions, is that sump a 40 breeder or something smaller?


Lighting - right now it has 4 VHO's on an icecap 660. I will eventually upgrade this to T5's on the 660 and probably leave 2 of the VHOs and put them on a 440 I have. If that isn't enough Ill pull one or two of my 250w MHs from my old 300 and modify the hood so they are mounted on the top.

Sump - I think it's 30 gallon. I want room in the stand for a 7 gallon RO/DI tank (actually planning on using a 7 gallon wastebasket) and want room for a reactor (start with a Kalc and move to a CA)

Tank dimensions 48 x 18 x 30


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Old 01/04/2010, 06:51 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by NP_Reef View Post
hopefully it turns out as good as the old one.
Thanks - I'm keeping my fingers crossed but I know it wont be the same, for one I wont have as many SPS. I'm thinking only about 4-6 sps with more LPS and a couple softies. My thoughts are having a large live rock build up on the overflow side with space for a purple plate, one very nice mille and a blue tort. Then have a couple birdsnest, my wife and I both like the looks of how they sway in the flow. We may do some softies but on rock islands; for one I'll have my old orange ricordia rocks and if I can find who has it, my old orange zoa rock. Maybe an island of GSP.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Maverick2009 View Post
Ive got a 110 also, love the tank but hate getting to the bottom to clean the krud. Nice to see others with that tank. Not many out there.
thanks - do you have a build log? At lest this is not as tall as my old tank (36" - that was a pain to deal with)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Don-Coraleone View Post
wow that was a sweet tank...
thanks


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Old 01/04/2010, 11:43 PM   #13
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Four overdriven T5's on that 660 with a pair of actinic VHO's on a 440 sounds like an awesome setup for what you're planning! As long as the SPS stays within the top 18-20" I don't think you would have any problems. An RC Member named ReefEnabler has an absolutely amazing 220 gallon tank that uses only T5's and VHOs.


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Old 01/06/2010, 06:32 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Taqpol View Post
Four overdriven T5's on that 660 with a pair of actinic VHO's on a 440 sounds like an awesome setup for what you're planning! As long as the SPS stays within the top 18-20" I don't think you would have any problems. An RC Member named ReefEnabler has an absolutely amazing 220 gallon tank that uses only T5's and VHOs.
thanks Alex - I'll have to go back and check Ryans (ReefEnabler) thread. I use to stay up on his build log but being out a while forgot about his set up - it is a nice one.


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Old 01/27/2010, 06:25 PM   #15
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funny timing! just today I was thinking "I wonder how pete's tank is doing" and then I found out the bad news.... ouch! Really sad to hear about what happened Pete.

Looking forward to seeing what you do with this one. Are you keeping your old stock at your place in a temporary tank, or did you give stuff to BigJay and marc for safekeeping???

as you can see, I've been away from RC awhile myself. My tank is doing so-so: I am gearing up to fight a black-bug infection lost a few corals but once I realized and started basting them the surviving ones started to look better... interceptor coming soon, fingers crossed!


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Old 02/23/2010, 07:01 PM   #16
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Hey Ryan - it was a bad day to say the least. it appears the euro brace failed allowing the front glass to separate from the side glass. I am still not sure why but when I finally get around to breaking down the tank I'll check the level of the stand as I suspect the floor may have settled. Most of the livestock was initially saved but over time a lot did not make it in other peoples tanks.

Once I get this new tank up I'll use the live rock from the old tank. I've been keeping the live rock in a stock tank with pumps and a skimmer but no heat or light so most of the critters are now long dead. I will stock the tank initially from the existing live rock & sand and let it go though it’s initial cycle. Then I'll introduce some livestock and some live rock from my 29 gallon tank as it is full of beneficial pods, snails, stars coralmorphs etc.

This tank will likely have more LPS, ricordia, zoa’s, acans with a few select SPS. I’m not sure of the fish population yet, as I love tangs I just don’t think a 100 gallon is enough room for them.


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Old 02/24/2010, 04:00 PM   #17
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It seems like you could have one or two of the smaller tangs. Tomini, Kole, or Chevron?


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Old 02/24/2010, 06:08 PM   #18
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It seems like you could have one or two of the smaller tangs. Tomini, Kole, or Chevron?
thanks Alex - I'l most likely cave in and get a couple smaller ones like you suggest. They are such a personable and active fish, plus the 6 I had in the 290 kept the rocks clean of algea outbreaks


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Old 02/24/2010, 06:25 PM   #19
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sump area


drain and return lines


reactor manifold



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Old 02/25/2010, 06:08 AM   #20
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Sorry for your troubles Pete, I really enjoyed your other build . This one looks fun also, thanks for sharing the steps with us.

(Um pics missing above? )


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Old 02/28/2010, 01:36 PM   #21
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Sorry for your troubles Pete, I really enjoyed your other build . This one looks fun also, thanks for sharing the steps with us.

(Um pics missing above? )
not sure what happened to the pics - trying again


Attached Images
File Type: jpg sumparea.jpg (82.6 KB, 849 views)
File Type: jpg drainreturn.jpg (79.3 KB, 688 views)
File Type: jpg reactormanifold.jpg (91.1 KB, 1639 views)
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Old 02/28/2010, 01:38 PM   #22
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pipe diagram


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Old 06/06/2010, 12:36 PM   #23
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Hey Pete, again sorry about the 280g. What a beautiful display. I have no doubt the new tank will be even better than the last. Can you explain (if you haven't already) the corrugated pipe de-bubbler you've incorporated into the sump?


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Old 06/06/2010, 12:44 PM   #24
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look forward to seeing this come together!


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Old 06/06/2010, 01:11 PM   #25
psteeleb
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Hey Pete, again sorry about the 280g. What a beautiful display. I have no doubt the new tank will be even better than the last. Can you explain (if you haven't already) the corrugated pipe de-bubbler you've incorporated into the sump?

With the two sets of weirs, I don't think I'll need it. It was something I worked up on my 280 as the flow was so fast through my weirs the microbubles were getting through.

It's a very simple device made from corrugated drain pipe you find in most hardware stores. Basically there is a 4" innner pipe that forces bubbles up and out as water flows over the top into a 6" pipe that foces water down and out the bottom forcing more air / water seperation. It turned out to be very very effective given the high flow rate I had in my sump (probably around 3,00gph). There are some pictures on my old build log including an early and final version.

The pipe is very inexpensive and the corragation helps seperate the bubbles by providing more surface area then straight pipe, plus I'm pretty sure the corragation helps cut down noise by breaking up larger bubbles

the only draw back I had was you have to buy the pipe in 10' sections.


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