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Old 07/21/2010, 06:06 PM   #1151
GreshamH
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Well JG fittings hold 60+ PSI, that I know, otherwise my RODI would be spitting water from every connection

Can you push 1500gph through 1/2" pipe though? I seem to think not, but it's been a while since I've had to remember plumbing numbers


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Old 07/21/2010, 06:39 PM   #1152
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Here you go

Water Flow Based On Pipe Size


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Old 07/21/2010, 08:55 PM   #1153
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Mike


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Old 07/21/2010, 09:09 PM   #1154
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Mike


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Old 07/21/2010, 09:22 PM   #1155
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Ok I think I've figured out what might work, and the flow capability of 1/2" pipe should work in this design's favor as most of the flow should go through 3/4" pipe:



I need some feedback on whether or not this should work before I start on it though.


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Old 07/21/2010, 09:35 PM   #1156
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Mike what do you think about using a 3/4 " pvc wye instead of a tee at the two points where the 1/2 meets the 3/4? The flow might go better through the refrigerator that way. The wye facing up on the point closest to the return pump and for the top point use the wye upside down. Does that make sense?

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Old 07/22/2010, 01:29 PM   #1157
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I agree Mike (and it made sense to me FWIW)

It'll probably need a gate valve or two as well if you really want to fine tune it.


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Old 07/22/2010, 04:12 PM   #1158
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Just got back from Savko got all the plumbing I should need including the wye fittings. They also had uniseals so I'm gonna try those for the fridge, and probably some silicone around the power cords that I have to run through the fridge as well. Those guys at savko are starting to get to know me real well.


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Old 07/22/2010, 05:07 PM   #1159
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You know you have been there too much when the staff asks you were certain thing are at in the store


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Old 07/22/2010, 06:59 PM   #1160
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If you haven't stopped by yet..let's help put a non-photosynthetic gorgonian on the cover of the next Coral Magazine

http://www.coralmagazine-us.com/cont...xt-coral-cover

Mike


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Old 07/23/2010, 09:00 PM   #1161
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Mike, There is a flaw in your fridge system. I just replumbed mine directly into my return line. I think this will be more natural and allow me to add food easier as it is in the basement now rather than the closet. It exposed a weakness to me and I see you have the same.

If your paristallic pump hose ruptures, or should I say when it does, your going to be pumping water out of your system. I say when because I deal with pools in my business. We use those to feed chemicals into the pools. They always rupture eventually. To prevent this from creating a disaster you need a check valve at the points your 1/2 line enters and exits your main line. If you use a 1/2 check valve I don't think the food will clog it up.


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Old 07/23/2010, 09:30 PM   #1162
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Another option is to just create a side stream with a venturi injector. Place a gate valve on the supply line between both ends of the bypass and use this to control the rate of flow through the bypass. The pressure on the peri pump lines should be barely negative if dialed in right, so it shouldn't rupture. Even if the peri pump line does leak somehow, you would just be sucking in air and not blowing out water.

I'd be interested to see how Steve W's system has been holding up for him.


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Old 07/23/2010, 09:35 PM   #1163
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Oh, just looked at this diagram again. It will not really work in the current setup. The loop with the peri pumps is a dead end of sorts. You need a valve (preferably gate valve) on the section of the return line where it says "3/4 pipe". When you dial down this valve a bit you'll create higher pressure on the lower portion of the pipe than the higher part--this is what you need to get a venturi to work, or to push water through the loop. I'd recomend feeding the peri pumps into a venturi if you are concerned about the issue slapshot brings up.


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Old 07/23/2010, 10:14 PM   #1164
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Thanks for the feedback. Matt - I sent you a PM but its probably good to answer it here so if anyone else wants to replicate it they know what to do. I think I understand your solution for forcing the flow to go through the loop by using a gate valve. Would this negate the need for check valves which slapshot recommended then?

Also, you lost me on the part about feeding the pumps into a venturi.


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Old 07/23/2010, 10:18 PM   #1165
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slapshot View Post
Mike, There is a flaw in your fridge system. I just replumbed mine directly into my return line. I think this will be more natural and allow me to add food easier as it is in the basement now rather than the closet. It exposed a weakness to me and I see you have the same.

If your paristallic pump hose ruptures, or should I say when it does, your going to be pumping water out of your system. I say when because I deal with pools in my business. We use those to feed chemicals into the pools. They always rupture eventually. To prevent this from creating a disaster you need a check valve at the points your 1/2 line enters and exits your main line. If you use a 1/2 check valve I don't think the food will clog it up.
If the hose ruptures, how do check valves at the 1/2 pipe prevent water from being pumped out of the system?


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Old 07/23/2010, 11:09 PM   #1166
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uhuru View Post
Thanks for the feedback. Matt - I sent you a PM but its probably good to answer it here so if anyone else wants to replicate it they know what to do. I think I understand your solution for forcing the flow to go through the loop by using a gate valve. Would this negate the need for check valves which slapshot recommended then?

Also, you lost me on the part about feeding the pumps into a venturi.
Oops! Already replied to the PM, but here's what I said:

Quote:
Hi Matt,

Can you explain to me what you mean by feeding the peri pumps into a venturi?

Also, if I understand your post correctly, I can force the flow to go in one direction by creating higher pressure at the entry point vs. the exit point of the 1/2" pipe going into the fridge. This would negate the need for check valves, which I prefer to avoid since they are going to be prone to failure with all the food that goes through them. Is this correct?
Quote:
Yes and yes.

Something like this 1/2" version would work.
http://www.aquaticeco.com/subcategor...tors/venturi/0

Have you used a venturi skimmer before? You just put one of these on the end of a pump and it draws air into the little nipple to make bubbles. The rate at which air is drawn into the nipple is a function of the water velocity through the pipe. In your case you control how fast the water pushes through by tuning the gate valve, but instead of sucking air you are sucking food. You don't need a whole lot of suction since the peristaltic pumps are doing the work of delivering the food to the pipe, so just tune it until you see it starting to have a bit of negative pressure.

Hope this makes sense.



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Old 07/23/2010, 11:11 PM   #1167
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Oops again, here is the working link to the venturi:
http://www.aquaticeco.com/subcategor...tors/venturi/0

This is one of a few dozen different venturi brands, all of them would work fine. You could even build one yourself.


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Old 07/23/2010, 11:14 PM   #1168
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Here's a GIF that might make more sense too...
http://www.morgancountyseeds.com/images/inject_1_.gif


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Old 07/23/2010, 11:23 PM   #1169
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Can you tell me where the venturi valve would be placed exactly? On the suction end of the return pump or plumbed into the 1/2" pipe?


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Old 07/23/2010, 11:27 PM   #1170
Matt_Wandell
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On the 1/2" pipe. In your diagram, right above the 3 food jars.

The 3 peri pumps complicates things just a little, but not much. Just tee all 3 together into one line that goes into the venturi suction nipple.


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Old 07/23/2010, 11:28 PM   #1171
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Quote:
Just tee all 3 together into one line that goes into the venturi suction nipple.
Why not just use three venturi's lined up?


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Old 07/23/2010, 11:50 PM   #1172
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Ok I think I get it now. I thought that a venturi had to be placed on the suction side of the pump but I guess that is only with needlewheel skimmers. So if I understand correctly the venturi by nature "sucks in" either air or water from the nipple. If I connect the peri pumps to the venturi, normally the venturi will suck in some food. If the pump tubing ruptures, the venturi will suck in air.

If this is how it works then I think 3 venturis would be overkill. It would take up space where space is limited, and unless you make your own it is a lot more expensive.


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Old 07/23/2010, 11:52 PM   #1173
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Quote:
Why not just use three venturi's lined up?
No reason, just seems overly complex to me. I guess my question would be what's the benefit?

He wouldn't be able to line the venturis up end to end (in series), if that's what you mean. He'd need to split the 1/2" line 3 ways and place the venturis side by side (in parallel).


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Old 07/23/2010, 11:55 PM   #1174
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uhuru View Post
Ok I think I get it now. I thought that a venturi had to be placed on the suction side of the pump but I guess that is only with needlewheel skimmers. So if I understand correctly the venturi by nature "sucks in" either air or water from the nipple. If I connect the peri pumps to the venturi, normally the venturi will suck in some food. If the pump tubing ruptures, the venturi will suck in air.

If this is how it works then I think 3 venturis would be overkill. It would take up space where space is limited, and unless you make your own it is a lot more expensive.
You got it!


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Old 07/24/2010, 10:36 AM   #1175
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Quote:
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If the hose ruptures, how do check valves at the 1/2 pipe prevent water from being pumped out of the system?
Hmmm I guess your right. You really need a check valve at every parri pump. You are trying to stop back flow if the tube ruptures. The way you have it now, the tube is holding the pressure keeping the water in your loop. Does that make sense?


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