Maxspect LED owners!!!

[gambitcobra]

Originally Posted by Wijic

You know, I wonder if we're at a point now where we could compose a Maxspect FAQ of the most commonly asked questions (PAR rating, what fixture/number of units for a tank X size, how much flexibility you have in adjusting Kelvins etc etc) that folks can read over if they're looking to learn more about these lights.

Also, Ardeus, if you're looking for genuine, authentic lighting/weather effects, you may do better with solar tubing than any lights at all...

Yes I believe its time for a FAQ section.

[SimonSKL]

Originally Posted by KMP

things i'm sure we will all agree on at this point:

- if your tank is 4' long; get 2 of the smaller fixtures.
- if your tank is 20" or more deep; get a fixture which has the 30w LEDs

Agreed! Also these fixtures are not using any optics so they need to be mounted very close (~4") above the water surface, especially for a deeper tank.

[KMP]

Originally Posted by Faerl

At 24" what would the par be do you think for a 110w? I've got a seahorse tank I'm looking to add those two and was thinking the 110w might actually be better (not quite as strong as those 30w on the 160). Not doing clams or anything, mostly softies. Bottom would be some zoas, mushrooms, etc.

Just when I thought I knew the answers - along comes a pony question :-). Since you'll have ponies I think the 110w would suffice; however, let's see what others think. We used to have par ratings on a 110w but I don't think they've resurfaced in this thread. That said - if I were in your position I would still get the 160w - just wouldn't run the 30w LEDs. Why? Resell potential and should I decide to give up the ponies I would have a fixture I could use on whatever I decided to do next. Hmm - where was that great advice when I bought my 110s :-)

[crank2211]

Originally Posted by KMP

things i'm sure we will all agree on at this point:

- if your tank is 4' long; get 2 of the smaller fixtures.
- if your tank is 20" or more deep; get a fixture which has the 30w LEDs

I wouldn't necessarily say this is true at all. With all things, it depends on your setup but some things to keep in mind are

-2x110/160W units will be more expensive than one 170/230W comparable unit.
-Beneficial coverage will essentially be the same with 2 smaller units vs 1 larger as the dimensions indicate the 110/160 are exactly half the length of the larger units. True, you might be getting more LED's with 2 of the smaller units but 120 degree spread is 120 degrees of spread.
- 2 smaller units evenly spaced across a 4 foot tank will probably result in a dimmer center/corners vs having dark corners with 1 larger unit
- If you intend on keeping light sensitive corals below 12" or 15" of water, then it might be useful to have to the 30W LED's, potentially at the expense of the corals higher up.
- I would be more worried about those 30W LED's bleaching or browning out the corals over a period of time. We've seen bleaching/browning with the just 3Watters, the 30's worry me a bit. Not to mention while they're running, the color of the tank is not very pleasant to look at. So instead of running them all the time, they're cut them back to just a couple hours and then the rest of the photoperiod, only the 3w blue/white/purps are running. Now you have significantly fewer 3Watters running the majority of the day in comparison to the 110/170 models, since their quantities are cut back to make room for the 30W that are barely on.
-ex. You lose (4) white 3W Leds and gain (2)30W Leds when going from 110W to the 160W version, however this "upgrade" will cost a $140 per unit over the price of the 110 and better your chances to brown out or bleach, plus make it more difficult to keep the color of the tank visually appealing.

IMO, 30W LEDS are not the answer to penetrating deep water. Optics are.

[KMP]

Well - I stand corrected - we don't all agree :-)

How about...

- 16" fixtures cover 2'x2 area; 31" fixtures cover 3'x2 area
- Maxspect fixtures do not have the same water penetration optics as more expesive fixtures; so if that's what your looking for - look elsewhere

[Garage1217]

I actually prefer no optics on my units / mounted close to the water. The 30W led's penetrate amazingly well & the spread / coverage is excellent.

[alvesjc]

Hi there.

I was about to build a diy led fixture controlled by a microcontroller, but now I'm thinking twice about building the fixture. But I would like to build the controller anyway.

Anyone off the current owners of this units have simple electronics knowladge?

If so, would be nice to have someone to try to read the output voltages of the controller for each channel int the multi pin connector that goes to the led fixture. The idea is to realize if they are providing simple DC voltages, or in form off PWM signals.

As a not dimmable fixture, I think that they are providing DC voltages directly, But I would like to be sure before think to buy one.

If anyone will try to do the measurements, be very carefull about shorting the pins. DO NOT put multiple pins from the connector in contact with the multimeter/osciloscope probe.

Waiting for your comments.

[SimonSKL]

Originally Posted by alvesjc

Hi there.

I was about to build a diy led fixture controlled by a microcontroller, but now I'm thinking twice about building the fixture. But I would like to build the controller anyway.

Anyone off the current owners of this units have simple electronics knowladge?

If so, would be nice to have someone to try to read the output voltages of the controller for each channel int the multi pin connector that goes to the led fixture. The idea is to realize if they are providing simple DC voltages, or in form off PWM signals.

As a not dimmable fixture, I think that they are providing DC voltages directly, But I would like to be sure before think to buy one.

If anyone will try to do the measurements, be very carefull about shorting the pins. DO NOT put multiple pins from the connector in contact with the multimeter/osciloscope probe.

Waiting for your comments.

First of all, I don't have any electronic knowledge and I will never attempt what you described. The following is what I picked up from a post from another forum to address my question re change of PCB. I don't know if it answers your question about voltage.

"While comparing the system design, the PCB becomes modularized and standardized. Basically, the controller of Maxspect contains 1) micro-controller, 2) control panel, 3) 3 to 4 sets of constant current driver (the working voltage is either 60V or 100V). For G1: 1 & 3 are bundled/ soldered into one single logical PCB. For G2: the constant current drivers are still keeping in one single PCB. As a result, different models use different PCBs, it is too stupid!!! So, I expect in the coming design, it will separate the constant current drivers and add the dimming logic!"

It seems if Maxspect ever upgrades the fixtures to be dimmable, all we have to do is to switch the controller, correct?

[alvesjc]

Yes, thank you, that answers my question!

Yes you're right, if they want, they can sell a new controller with dimmable function at least.

The led fixture setup, will never allow to do clouds passing simulation with only one fixture, however, with more than one fixture, and a diferent controller, you can do it.

My tank has 170cmx60x60, and I'll need two fixtures. I'll try for sure to simulate clouds.

But the more importante thing, is sunrise and sunset, and that, you can do with a single fixture, also as colour temperature control. You can also set the maximum power for the 30W leds channel to avoid that huge bright effect when they are on.

Thank you for your reply.

[SimonSKL]

This thread is about providing information of Maxspect products in a non-biased and non-commercial way. There was some information and pictures re PAR readings of G2 160W in a real tank situation that were posted in the now deleted thread. I think that information is extremely useful for what we are discussing here. I have found those PAR readings and pictures in SFVR forum but am not sure if we can link or post those pictures here. I sure don't want to get into any trouble with the mods here. Any feedback from the mods would be appreciated.

[OgreMkV]

I recently picked up a G1-160W model pretty cheap (since they are all but sold out). I would have preferred a G2, but the money just wasn't there.

This is an upgrade from a 96W PC fixture and the change is pretty epic. This tank is a 45g penta (basically a 2'x2'x2' cube with a 13in corner cut out of the front. I have no dim corners, even though the lights is only about 3 inches from the water.

96W PC
96W PC.jpg

160W LED
160W white-blue.jpg

I didn't get a programming manual, so that was tricky, but nothing I couldn't figure out.

[CarlinG]

Where is the order info, couldn't find it.

[pecan2phat]

Has anyone ordered the fixture with the Cree options? Just wondering what the surcharge was like.

[SimonSKL]

Some PAR readings taken by a fellow reefer from a pair of G2 160W over a SPS dominating tank 40"X24"x24"



3” under water, under the 30w LED bulbs: 1481-1529 PAR.



6-8” under water, moved between two 30w LED bulbs: 576-590 PAR.



16” under water, near the center: 321-323 PAR.



22” under water, on the bottom - 236-238 PAR.

[SimonSKL]

Here are a couple pictures of a SPS frag in my own tank before and after Maxspect LED started on 3/19/10. This frag is placed about 6" below water surface (10" from the light).

3/16/10


4/1/10

[Faerl]

Originally Posted by KMP

Just when I thought I knew the answers - along comes a pony question :-). Since you'll have ponies I think the 110w would suffice; however, let's see what others think. We used to have par ratings on a 110w but I don't think they've resurfaced in this thread. That said - if I were in your position I would still get the 160w - just wouldn't run the 30w LEDs. Why? Resell potential and should I decide to give up the ponies I would have a fixture I could use on whatever I decided to do next. Hmm - where was that great advice when I bought my 110s :-)

Thanks. I'm going to keep with the 110w. The 160w adds the 2 30w leds but in exchange removes several of the 3w whites. If I'm not turning on those two whites I'd end up pretty blue. Plus, it's an extra $110 for lights I'm not using. I get your justification though on the resell. Should be good for what I'm doing. Even without pony's I'm not that big into the hard corals. I think the only thing I'd put in there without ponys would be a birdsnest or maybe a clam way up high. In either case though not 'enough' of them that I'd need the light lower in the tank to be able to handle them. Thanks!

[KMP]

Glad I could help. Fortunately shallow reefs (as in my case) have been
an increasing trend as well so that creates a broader resell as well. You'll
love the lights - my second came in the mail today.

[joey_1023]

Originally Posted by kvmn

where is other thread talking about maxspect light ? any one know?
also can some one here let me know where to buy a replace led for max spect? thanks

pm me, or someone else will get you first.

[joey_1023]

can someone pm me on a vendor, i have one in mind but i dont know if anyone has ordered from them. i know of 3 companys but i dont want to post the link on here so thread can live on. im going to be adding 3 110w g2's on my 75g tank, mounted on top of tank, my buddy brought over 2 120w panels from a different hk brand but my tank was shadowed over the middle and corners, since my rock work is about 2/3rds of my tank. i dont want to hear my landlord about having them mounted off the walls, so i think 3 110w g2's will do me justice. does anyone see any problems forcoming. will 3 110's fit on 48 1/4" spread with feet on light. my math came out to 47.22" of light with out feet. the only issue i see it the tabs in front of the legs but i think i can stagger them such as: Lay the middle one on 1st the lay the outside right one leg on top/front of middle middle legs and same for left fixture. any advice would be great.

i posted a pic of my setup with 6x54w tek light running 3yrs everything grown from frags under this t5 fixture.

anyone have a good way of acclimating the new light. i was thinking of lighting up the photo period and maybe leaving middle fixture off until the 2 others are are going full strength.

thanks in advance

[kgk]

My dual 110w units showed up today. They turn on, but one refuses to respond to control inputs on the driver unit. Plug it in and it's just "on". The second works fine.

I am testing them over a 75g tank, and the color is good. They're not as bright as the 4x T5s that I usually run over the tank (21" deep). I think they'll be fine over the 16" tank I plan to use them on. The shimmer is nice and HOLY COW the color is cool under the blue LEDs only. I would recommend the 160w (or more) for a 21" deep tank though...

[Garage1217]

Bummer man, did you try setting the timers? I noticed I could not control the 30w leds on mine until the timers were programmed, may be something similar but with the 3w leds on the 110 units.

[kgk]

Originally Posted by Garage1217

Bummer man, did you try setting the timers? I noticed I could not control the 30w leds on mine until the timers were programmed, may be something similar but with the 3w leds on the 110 units.

I set the time & the timer. No difference. I did notice, though, that when I "turned off" both LED groups (white & blue), the lights stayed on, but the fan turned off. Fan turned back on when I changed the setting.

[joey_1023]

i have 3 g2 110w units coming for my 48x18x18 tank 75g. i plan on running them horizontal, 4" from water which puts them 20" from my sand bed most of my sps and in the upper 1/2 of my tank. how should i go about acclimating the corals to new lighting since i run 6x54w t5's tek light w/ old bulbs maybe 12 months on them currently at 12hrs actinics and 8hrs of day? i was thinking on running 2 units for now with on a shorter photo-period then adding in the other fixture after fully acclimated, and do the same with photo-period on 3rd fixture.
Will 2 of these units put out a better light output/more intensive then 6x54w t5 tek light at same height? Im would definitely assume that i would have to acclimate corals to them since my rockwork is very tall 3/4 up my tank with sps colonies 1" from top of water. i posted pics in my other post of tank below.

thanks in advance,

sorry for double posting same question, kinda like Christmas all over again.

[kgk]

Originally Posted by joey_1023

i have 3 g2 110w units coming for my 48x18x18 tank 75g. i plan on running them horizontal, 4" from water which puts them 20" from my sand bed most of my sps and in the upper 1/2 of my tank. how should i go about acclimating the corals to new lighting since i run 6x54w t5's tek light w/ old bulbs maybe 12 months on them currently at 12hrs actinics and 8hrs of day? i was thinking on running 2 units for now with on a shorter photo-period then adding in the other fixture after fully acclimated, and do the same with photo-period on 3rd fixture.
Will 2 of these units put out a better light output/more intensive then 6x54w t5 tek light at same height? Im would definitely assume that i would have to acclimate corals to them since my rockwork is very tall 3/4 up my tank with sps colonies 1" from top of water. i posted pics in my other post of tank below.

thanks in advance,

sorry for double posting same question, kinda like Christmas all over again.

I generally have 4 T5s over my 75. When I was testing the new fixtures, I had them on the rails, each covering 2' of the tank. I don't think I would have needed any acclimation at all with the 110w units.

[kgk]

Originally Posted by kgk

My dual 110w units showed up today. They turn on, but one refuses to respond to control inputs on the driver unit. Plug it in and it's just "on". The second works fine.

The driver works now. I had to take it apart, but fixing it was easy. My opinion is that others will see this failure as well due to the way it is put together, so I'm going to talk a bit about it.



Above is a picture of the driver unit, opened up. Take note of the white ribbon cable between the PCB on the "lid" that houses the buttons and LCD, and a small PCB that connects to the main driver PCB. The issue was with the small PCB that connects to the main driver board.

This small PCB connects to the main driver board through a small "push-pin" style connector. The issue was that the boards had come disconnected in shipping. I simply had to push them back together, restoring the connections, and the unit now functions as expected.

Due to the way this is put together, others will probably experience this due to shipping. There is very little holding those boards together. They must not do any shock & vibe testing on these things ...