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Old 05/01/2010, 08:20 PM   #1
Reeferhead
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Reeferhead's 150DD Build

Only pic I have at the moment I'll have a lot more as this thing progresses



So I'm back from training Ft. Benning and started working on this thing. I spent the day in the crawl space reinforcing the floor and in the attic running electrical. The floor probably would have been OK without the steel floor jacks I added but I (and more importantly Beth) will sleep easier knowing they're holding this thing in place. I ran two dedicated 20 amp GFI protected circuits.

This tank will be mainly SPS but I'm going to move everything from my current setup temporarily so I can tear it down and reset it up as a Jawfish species tank with most of my softies.

Right now I'm working on a shopping list and would like your input on any of my equipment listed below:

Controller:
My current APEX (may need to buy another EB8)

Return Pump:
Reeflo Dart (plan on splitting it to feed a GFO and carbon reactor as well as my current 1/10th hp Chiller)

Skimmer:
Super Reef Octopus XP 3000 Cone Internal

Lighting:
My current two 250 watt DE Reef Optics III Pendants w/ 14k Phoenix bulbs plus two 36" 4 bulb ATI Power Modules (unsure on t5 bulbs yet)

Hood Fans:
The ATIs have built in fans plus I'm going to add 3-4 4" NB-Mult****** case fans on the pushing through the right side of the hood and pushing out the ventilation slats on top

Circulation:
My two current MP40Ws plus thinking of adding a WB or 2 more Vortechs. I want to get a nice resonant standing wave and have a nice circular current running around the single LR island I have planned

Ca/Alk/MG:
3 BRS Dosers hooked up to my APEX and pulling from reservoirs in my laundry room (about 25' away but only a few feet of head)

GFO and Carbon:
BRS Dual Reactor

Sump and CDP Tank:
Undecided on whether to go with two 20 longs or have something acrylic custom built

Heaters:
2 Eheim Jager 300 watt on APEX

Topoff:
Level Loc unit gravity fed from my current 10 gallon reservoir (may need to bump this up to a 20)

CDP Tank Lighting:
undecided, I'd like to get something comparable to what I'll be running on the main. Who make a 24" fixture with 150DE plus T-5s?

CDP Tank Circulation:
undecided, thinking about trying some kind of Gyre flow setup with a MP20

Aquascaping:
Very open, one central island. I'm going to figure out some way to lift everything up at least an inch or two above the 1" SSB I want to go with. I'm also going to turn the tank so the overflow is on the rear right corner and the Starphire front is facing the room door. The stand will stay the way it is.

Comments, suggestions? please shoot away


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St. Louis Area Saltwater Hobbyists' (SLASH) Coral Donor Program (CDP)
Because, "Friends don't let friends pay $50 a polyp!"
Over 200 different corals and counting...

Current Tank Info: 352 Quintillion Gallon
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Old 05/01/2010, 08:23 PM   #2
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Why would Mult#I#F#R#A#M#E be censored?


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Nick

St. Louis Area Saltwater Hobbyists' (SLASH) Coral Donor Program (CDP)
Because, "Friends don't let friends pay $50 a polyp!"
Over 200 different corals and counting...

Current Tank Info: 352 Quintillion Gallon
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Old 05/01/2010, 09:38 PM   #3
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if you need some idea stop by and see my tank


i ended up with 2 lumenbrite3 reflectors and 2 t5s


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Current Tank Info: 200 Gal RR,ATB medium, 4 AI blue sol,230 LBS LIVE ROCK, no sand , 40 GAL sump, airstar1800, 3 tunze 6105 1- 6205 1-6305, Geo 818, profilux3ex with toys
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Old 05/02/2010, 02:44 PM   #4
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Well I did some measuring and calculations... Doesn't look like any combination of standard sized tanks are going to cut it for what I want to do with my sump and CDP tank so it looks like I'm going to need to get something built. I playing around with Sketchup right now to see what I can come up with.


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St. Louis Area Saltwater Hobbyists' (SLASH) Coral Donor Program (CDP)
Because, "Friends don't let friends pay $50 a polyp!"
Over 200 different corals and counting...

Current Tank Info: 352 Quintillion Gallon
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Old 05/02/2010, 07:53 PM   #5
Koddie Doo
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Nick,

I still have a lot of acrylic rod that you can use.


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Old 05/02/2010, 08:08 PM   #6
Koddie Doo
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you could do this... on a smaller scale, and use starboard under the rack so debris does not build up.

http://reefcentral.com/forums/attach...1&d=1272848647


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File Type: jpg 75-3.jpg (33.3 KB, 181 views)
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Old 05/03/2010, 05:50 AM   #7
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Awesome picture.

What are the bulkhead sizes in the overflow?


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Current Tank Info: 140.5gal. goldfish bowl
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Old 05/03/2010, 04:43 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chadfarmer View Post
if you need some idea stop by and see my tank


i ended up with 2 lumenbrite3 reflectors and 2 t5s
I do need to come see your tank sometime. Your running 400 watters correct?


Quote:
Originally Posted by Koddie Doo View Post
Nick,

I still have a lot of acrylic rod that you can use.
I may have to take you up on that offer. I'm thinking of doing something very similar to what you described.

Quote:
Originally Posted by logiktest View Post
Awesome picture.

What are the bulkhead sizes in the overflow?
There both 1", I'm not sure why. I really thought the drain would be 1.5" but the overflow is pretty small so guess one inch is enough. I'm only going to try for 1500 gal/hr through it, I should be OK I think. The Durso that came with it is 1.5".


I'm going to do something very similar to this for the hood:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7DTJEMVSohQ


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St. Louis Area Saltwater Hobbyists' (SLASH) Coral Donor Program (CDP)
Because, "Friends don't let friends pay $50 a polyp!"
Over 200 different corals and counting...

Current Tank Info: 352 Quintillion Gallon
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Old 05/03/2010, 05:57 PM   #9
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if you have room in the attic i have seen a couple that use winches. that would be pretty slick.


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Old 05/03/2010, 07:24 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reeferhead View Post
this is like porn!


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Marineland 90 /RS-200 3rd Generation Reef Sump/ Aquamaxx
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Old 05/03/2010, 08:08 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by panaboy95 View Post
if you have room in the attic i have seen a couple that use winches. that would be pretty slick.

I thought about that but Beth would prefer not to see any cables hanging. I think I can make some adjustments to the design in the video to hide a lot of the bracketing and drawer slides. He was lifting close to 400 pounds. I won't have nearly that much.


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Nick

St. Louis Area Saltwater Hobbyists' (SLASH) Coral Donor Program (CDP)
Because, "Friends don't let friends pay $50 a polyp!"
Over 200 different corals and counting...

Current Tank Info: 352 Quintillion Gallon
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Old 05/03/2010, 08:47 PM   #12
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I am running 250w


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Current Tank Info: 200 Gal RR,ATB medium, 4 AI blue sol,230 LBS LIVE ROCK, no sand , 40 GAL sump, airstar1800, 3 tunze 6105 1- 6205 1-6305, Geo 818, profilux3ex with toys
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Old 05/03/2010, 10:11 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chadfarmer View Post
I am running 250w
Do you think I may be going a little over kill on my lighting plans?


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Nick

St. Louis Area Saltwater Hobbyists' (SLASH) Coral Donor Program (CDP)
Because, "Friends don't let friends pay $50 a polyp!"
Over 200 different corals and counting...

Current Tank Info: 352 Quintillion Gallon
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Old 05/03/2010, 10:45 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reeferhead View Post
Do you think I may be going a little over kill on my lighting plans?
i was told 400s but in all honesty it depends on how long you are going to run your lights and reflectors make a big difference



oceanview runs his tank off of 250w also and he has a deep tank too


i have the same reflector that nook has on his long tank just that mine have the glass included


dont use the stock canopy --- really not enough room


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Current Tank Info: 200 Gal RR,ATB medium, 4 AI blue sol,230 LBS LIVE ROCK, no sand , 40 GAL sump, airstar1800, 3 tunze 6105 1- 6205 1-6305, Geo 818, profilux3ex with toys
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Old 05/06/2010, 11:33 AM   #15
Reeferhead
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Yeah, the canopy is really short, that's why I was planning on the DE's and T-5s. They're a lot lower profile than those nice big SE reflectors. Though I won't get nearly as good a spread from the MHs I think what I have planned will work for the the way I'm aquascaping. I really don't want to build a new canopy but may mod the stock one to increase the height.


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Nick

St. Louis Area Saltwater Hobbyists' (SLASH) Coral Donor Program (CDP)
Because, "Friends don't let friends pay $50 a polyp!"
Over 200 different corals and counting...

Current Tank Info: 352 Quintillion Gallon
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Old 05/08/2010, 01:03 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reeferhead View Post
There both 1", I'm not sure why. I really thought the drain would be 1.5" but the overflow is pretty small so guess one inch is enough. I'm only going to try for 1500 gal/hr through it, I should be OK I think. The Durso that came with it is 1.5".
Alright then, a few thing I notice when I look at your list - aka Overkill Central.

That's a whole lot of return pump. You may be pushing your luck trying to ram 1500GPH through a 1" bulkhead if your using a Durso. At the very least you'll have quite a bit of splashing/bubbles/noise once the water enters the sump (likely even at half that amount of flow). FWIW, I was under the impression that the optimal diameter pipe for a Durso on a 1" bulkhead is 1-1/4".

If you were to run one bulkhead full siphon, then that would really up your flow rate, however a backup drain (also capable of full siphon) would be highly desirable, but then you would be stuck consulting with "the boss" because the return would need to be run up the side of the tank, and that may not look nice in your application.

That's a whole lot of lighting. Aside from your fish going blind and all your coral growing upside down, you may build up quite a bit of heat inside your canopy. Rebuilding or modifying your canopy would be a capital idea. You may want to check out Chads canopy. It looks great, and has lots of room and functionality with large door openings on all sides.

Lastly, the chiller. At 1/10HP, the pull-down seems so minimal that it may actually become counter productive, even if it resides in a remote location like the laundry room when you consider the amount of heat and electricity spent from the return pump just to run it. The smarter way to control heat, and the first place to start in this situation would be to reduce the amount of lighting (including the sump/CDP lights) and return pump, in turn reducing the amount of wattage spent and heat accumulated in the first place.

All of this purely my opinion of course.



...Anyway, having an actuated hood would be Sooooo cool. You could use a car alarm type of key fob to control it! Hot diggiliciousness!


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Have you ever looked around at the group of people you are in and thought, "If the Zombie Apocalypse happens right now, this is what I have to work with."

Current Tank Info: 140.5gal. goldfish bowl
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Old 05/10/2010, 08:21 AM   #17
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I overkill everything

Solutions/Changes:

Ditching the Dart:
For a few reasons, one being my sump plans don't leave room for it and it is a bit "overkill". I'm going to build one big sump/CDP tank that will measure 33" x 33" x 12" and fill the whole footprint of the stand. So I'm going submersible with either a Water Blaster or a Laguna and it will feed the return only.

I have smaller submersible pump (about 600g/h) just lying around that I can use to feed just the chiller. The chiller is undersized but its really just a backup in case I need it, I don't plan on it needing to run much. The chiller and the pump will be controlled by the APEX and will only come on after the fans come on and the lights go off. So unless its 90 degrees outside and the AC goes out the chiller should have a pretty easy day.

I'm going to use a separate pump (MJ1200) to feed the GFO/Carbon Reactor.

Overflow:
I’m going to use both 1” bulkheads as drains. I’m leaving space behind the tank for Vortechs and “cool hood lifty thing” anyway so there will be plenty of room for a return line. I’m thinking two 1.25” Stockmans: one full siphon and one standard with the airline looped above the waterline as a backup (siphon capable)

Lighting:
Current thoughts are one 400watt MH with a 4 bulb T-5 Retro. I can cut a hole in the top of the hood and mount the MH on top and have the T5s inside. This should help with the heat and give me a better spread. Not sure what reflector to go with yet but its going to need to look clean sitting on top of the hood.

Thoughts?


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St. Louis Area Saltwater Hobbyists' (SLASH) Coral Donor Program (CDP)
Because, "Friends don't let friends pay $50 a polyp!"
Over 200 different corals and counting...

Current Tank Info: 352 Quintillion Gallon
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Old 05/11/2010, 11:43 AM   #18
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Sump/CDP Tank Sketchup



Tried to keep it a simple as possible. Water from the drains comes in (front right) I'll likely have extra LR in there --> Travels through the CDP tank --> up and over the wier into the Skimmer Chamber ---> over a single baffle to the return.

If there is to much flow going though the frag tank, I'll route some directly to the skimmer chamber.

Thoughts?


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Nick

St. Louis Area Saltwater Hobbyists' (SLASH) Coral Donor Program (CDP)
Because, "Friends don't let friends pay $50 a polyp!"
Over 200 different corals and counting...

Current Tank Info: 352 Quintillion Gallon
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Old 05/11/2010, 12:17 PM   #19
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any possible thought of going to the ceiling with the hood ? almost a column style ?


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Old 05/11/2010, 12:27 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tall_jason79 View Post
any possible thought of going to the ceiling with the hood ? almost a column style ?
None

My favorite view of any tank is from the top down. I want to be able to simply throw a switch to lift the hood out of the way, kill all the pumps, and enjoy. The only nice thing about the short a$$ DD stand is that it puts the tank at a perfect height for top down viewing, well for guys of our stature anyway


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Nick

St. Louis Area Saltwater Hobbyists' (SLASH) Coral Donor Program (CDP)
Because, "Friends don't let friends pay $50 a polyp!"
Over 200 different corals and counting...

Current Tank Info: 352 Quintillion Gallon
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Old 05/11/2010, 06:00 PM   #21
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I will bring my step stool so I can see what you are talking about


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I like to superglue living creatures to rocks and suspend crazy amount of light inches away from the surface of water just to stare at it.

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Old 05/14/2010, 03:53 PM   #22
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Might want to think about adding a baffle before the return section Nick. I kick myself everyday for not doing so on mine.


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Current Tank Info: 150DD SPS dominant mixed reef. 100g sump/fuge, 40b frag tank, Diablo xs200 skimmer, ReefAngel + controller, Custom GEO 824 calcium reactor, panworld 200PS return pump. Lumenmax Elite reflector with phoenix 250HQI bulb and custom build multichip LEDs
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Old 05/14/2010, 04:18 PM   #23
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Top down is a great view . I was not sure how tall your stand was.


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Old 05/19/2010, 03:49 PM   #24
Reeferhead
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Sump Version 2.0



Trying to direct the flow from the drain across the top of the frag rack. If it isn't enough on its own, I'l cut the frag rack a bit shorter, add a 6045 on the left side under the frag rack, and create a gyre flow in there.

Front:


Left side:


Top:


Any thoughts? Please fire away


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Nick

St. Louis Area Saltwater Hobbyists' (SLASH) Coral Donor Program (CDP)
Because, "Friends don't let friends pay $50 a polyp!"
Over 200 different corals and counting...

Current Tank Info: 352 Quintillion Gallon
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Old 05/19/2010, 03:52 PM   #25
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One thing I forgot to add is a lid where the water comes into the sump. The water level will only be about 2" from the top of the tank, with bubbles breaking on the surface, I'll need one.


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Nick

St. Louis Area Saltwater Hobbyists' (SLASH) Coral Donor Program (CDP)
Because, "Friends don't let friends pay $50 a polyp!"
Over 200 different corals and counting...

Current Tank Info: 352 Quintillion Gallon
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