Reef Central Online Community

Home Forum Here you can view your subscribed threads, work with private messages and edit your profile and preferences View New Posts View Today's Posts

Find other members Frequently Asked Questions Search Reefkeeping ...an online magazine for marine aquarists Support our sponsors and mention Reef Central

Go Back   Reef Central Online Community > Marine Fish Forums > Fish Disease Treatment
Register Blogs FAQ Calendar Mark Forums Read

Notices

Reply
Thread Tools
Old 05/09/2010, 02:27 PM   #1
Jacob D
Registered Member
 
Jacob D's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: North Bay
Posts: 6,623
Basic Quarantine FAQ's

I don't consider myself an expert in the area of quarantine and treatment, however I think this bit of basic information may be helpful to those setting up and running a quarantine tank. The following should be interpreted as "in my opinion" rather than fact; if anyone feels there is misinformation here let's please discuss it.
  1. Should I quarantine all fish?
  2. What about corals, inverts, algae, and live rock?
  3. How big of a Quarantine Tank (QT) do I need?
  4. What filtration do I need for my QT?
  5. How often should I change the water?
  6. How many fish can I keep in my QT?
  7. How long should the quarantine process last?
  8. How far in advance should I have the QT cycled an ready?
  9. Should I proceed with any treatments even if I don't see signs of disease?
  10. How far in advance should I have the QT cycled an ready?
  11. What equipment do I need to setup a QT?
  12. What are some medications I should have on hand?


Q: Should I quarantine all fish?
A: Yes. A couple of weeks is a good window for observation of disease and parasites. Even newly acquired healthy fish can benefit from 2 weeks of time by themselves in the quarantine tank to recover from shipping/handling stress.


Q: What about corals, inverts, algae, and live rock?
A: Set up a separate QT for them. It should never see copper or any medications that may be harmful to corals and inverts. It doesn't need to be large, doesn't necessarily need a skimmer, but will need adequate light and water movement. 2 weeks of observation should help spot any unwanted hitch hikers and pests.


Q. How big of a Quarantine Tank (QT) do I need?
A. Ideally large enough to permanently meet the needs of your largest fish. Realistically, as close to that size as you have room for.


Q: What filtration do I need for my QT?
A: The more the better. A skimmer is beneficial and in some cases can be run with medication in the water. A HOB filter adds more surface for bacteria to colonize as well as a place to run filter pads and carbon. A ball of chaetomorpha is a good idea provided there is light available. There's no substitute for live rock but keep in mind that copper as well as other medications will contaminate the rock permanently (never use it with inverts). Bottom line; use water changes to maintain water quality regardless of the filtration methods in place.


Q: How often should I change the water?
A: As often as necessary to maintain excellent water quality. Spend $5 and get an ammonia alert indicator so you're not caught off guard by an ammonia spike.


Q: How many fish can I keep in my QT?
A: There is no magic number. Do your homework to understand which fish are compatible with each other, make sure there are enough hiding spaces for all fish to shelter in, and don't overload your filtration.


Q: How long should the quarantine process last?
A: A couple of weeks for observation is ample. If treatment beyond that is required it will depend on the treatment; usually 2-8 weeks. Technically speaking a QT would strictly be used for observation and rest period whereas a "Hospital Tank" would be used for treatment in which case the QT would more closely resemble an established tank, while the hospital tank would be very sterile.


Q: Should I proceed with any treatments even if I don't see signs of disease?
A: Prophylactic treatment is a personal decision. (I usually treat with Praziquantel and Metronidazole regardless of whether or not I see signs of parasites)


Q: How soon should I begin treatment?
A: Have the fish eating before starting treatment if possible. If the treatment is prophylactic give the fish a week or two to settle in and start eating regularly. If there are signs of disease or parasites you may need to start treatment right away.


Q: How far in advance should I have the QT cycled an ready?
A: The more established the QT the better. A squeaky clean QT is not necessarliy the best environment, even if cycled, even if jump started with water from the display tank. A slightly "dirty" QT is my preference. A little algae growth is a good indicator that the tank is "ready". If the QT has to be set up on short notice to treat a sick fish, use water from an established display tank.


Q: What equipment do I need to setup a QT?
A:
  • Tank
  • Heater
  • Powerhead(s)
  • Thermometer
  • Ammonia Alert Indicator and/or Nitrate & Nitrite test kits
  • PVC pipe segments or other hiding places for fish
  • Live Rock (optional)
  • Light (optional for fish-only)
  • Skimmer (optional)
  • HOB Filter (optional)


Q: What are some medications I should have on hand?
A:
  • Copper or Chloroquine - for ich and other external parasites
  • Praziquantel - for flukes and worms
  • Metronidazole - for intestinal and other protozoa
  • Formalin - for brook and other external parasites
  • Erythromycin and Minocycline - for bacterial prevention/treatment
  • Food enhancers such as Selcon, Zoe, and Eco Garlic



__________________
Jacob.

Current Tank Info: Retired from reefing...
Jacob D is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05/09/2010, 06:47 PM   #2
jjk_reef00
Registered Member
 
jjk_reef00's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 3,503
Thanks for posting this. I've been wanting more stickies in this forum for a long, long time.
Mods, can we make this a sticky please?
I would also like one for treating ich, velvet, internal parasites.

For copper treatment I prefer cupramine. I also like to keep pimaflix and melafix to treat external bacterial infection, and fin rot.


__________________
I need more fish tank appliances!
--Ed

Current Tank Info: 375 FOWLR
jjk_reef00 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05/24/2010, 01:49 PM   #3
Jacob D
Registered Member
 
Jacob D's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: North Bay
Posts: 6,623
Symptoms and Diagnosis Possibilities

This isn't an end-all be-all solution but it should provide some direction for those seeking help until someone responds to your post. As always, do your homework with any suggestions that are provided before starting treatment.


1. Tiny white dots on body or fins
2. Gold, brown or rust colored patches on body
3. Tiny black dots on body or fins
4. Raised white bumps on body or fins
5. Excessive mucus on body or gills
6. Ragged, torn, or missing fins
7. Cloudy eye(s)
8. Holes or pits on face, head, or lateral line
9. Fuzzy white or brown patches on body or fins
10. Open sores or lesions on body
11. Raised or missing scales
12. Stringy thread-like attachments on body
13. Stringy thread-like attachments on anus
14. Fish is scratching on rocks or substrate
15. Fish is rapidly breathing or gasping
16. Fish is lethargic and/or hiding
17. Fish is swimming erratically


Tiny white dots on body or fins
Research:
a) Marine Ich (parasite)


Gold, brown or rust colored patches on body
Research:
a) Marine Velvet (parasite)


Tiny black dots on body or fins
Research:
a) Black Ich (parasite)


Raised white bumps on body or fins
Research:
a) Lymphocystis (viral)
b) Fungal Infection in marine fish


Excessive mucus on body or gills
Research:
a) Brooklynella (parasite)
b) Marine Flukes (parasite)


Ragged, torn, or missing fins
Research:
a) Fin Rot and Tail Rot (bacterial)
b) Marine Ich (parasite)
c) Ammonia Poisoning in marine fish


Cloudy eye(s)
Research:
a) Marine Velvet (parasite)
b) Fin Rot and Tail Rot (bacterial)
c) Marine Ich (parasite)
d) Marine Flukes (parasite)
e) Bacterial Infection in marine fish


Holes or pits on face, head, or lateral line
Research:
a) Head and Lateral Line Errosion "HLLE"


Fuzzy white or brown patches on body or fins
Research:
a) Fungal Infection in marine fish
b) Columnaris (bacterial)


Open sores or lesions on body
Research:
a) Marine Flukes (parasite)
b) Brooklynella (parasite)
c) Bacterial Infection in marine fish


Raised or missing scales
Research:
a) Dropsy (bacterial)
b) Bacterial Infection in marine fish



Stringy thread-like attachments on anus
Research:
a) Thread worms (parasite)


Stringy thread-like attachments on body
Research:
a) Anchor worms (parasite)


Fish is scratching on rocks or substrate
Research:
a) Marine Ich (parasite)
b) Marine Velvet (parasite)
c) Marine Flukes (parasite)
d) Anchor worms (parasite)


Fish is rapidly breathing or gasping
Research:
a) Marine Velvet (parasite)
b) Brooklynella (parasite)
c) Marine Flukes (parasite)
d) Bacterial Infection in marine fish
e) Ammonia Poisoning in marine fish


Fish is lethargic and/or hiding
Research:
a) Marine Velvet (parasite)
b) Head and Lateral Line Errosion "HLLE"
c) Dropsy (bacterial)
d) Bacterial Infection in marine fish


Fish is swimming erratically
Research:
a) Marine Ich (parasite)
b) Marine flukes (parasite)


__________________
Jacob.

Current Tank Info: Retired from reefing...
Jacob D is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05/24/2010, 03:43 PM   #4
RegalAngel
Registered Member
 
RegalAngel's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: The Redwood Reef
Posts: 927
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showpo...6&postcount=23


RegalAngel is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05/25/2010, 04:32 AM   #5
RBU1
Moving on Up
 
RBU1's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Southern NJ
Posts: 5,074
Nice Job,

My only thoughts.....2 weeks in my opinion is not long enough. I would want to QT a fish for at least 8 weeks especially if you are not treating with anything. If you are treating (especially with copper) then a shorter QT like in the 4-5 weeks range would work. I have recently had a bought of bad luck with my QT process. Not sure if I had my copper level to low or what, but somehow ich made it in to my display even after I QT'd all my fish for at least 8 weeks. So you never know......


RBU1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05/25/2010, 04:43 PM   #6
Jacob D
Registered Member
 
Jacob D's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: North Bay
Posts: 6,623
Quote:
Originally Posted by RBU1 View Post
My only thoughts.....2 weeks in my opinion is not long enough. I would want to QT a fish for at least 8 weeks especially if you are not treating with anything.

I would, and do, agree. Roughly quoting from RegalAngel's post..

Quote:
Originally Posted by RegalAngel
If I purchase a fish(es) from a quality operator where the fish are observed and expected to be disease free then I will QT for about two weeks for observation to confirm what I expect...a disease free fish. But during this time if I observe something unusual in a fishes behavior or physical issue then it is aggressive QT for 4-6 weeks. It will be aggressive QT for fishes from other suppliers where the same observation and quality control does not take place, so it is up to me to be more than sure.
Two weeks is a minimum for observation. There's nothing wrong with longer observation IMO. Of course if other treatment is required then it might take 6-8 weeks total, or even longer, until the fish is ready to be placed into the display.

My protocol is usually a week to ensure they're eating well, then a week or two of Prazi Pro regardless of evidence of parasites or not. If all is well after 2-3 weeks I transfer to the display.


__________________
Jacob.

Current Tank Info: Retired from reefing...
Jacob D is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05/26/2010, 05:58 AM   #7
reice05
Moved On
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Virginia
Posts: 347
My biggest thing is im confused on how to cycle/prep my QT for use.I got a HOB filter,pvc,heater,and heater. I cant leave it running all the time so i basically need to use mine on a as needed basis. So incase i needed to use it i would use water from my DT but how would i know or what would i do to make sure its ready for use??


reice05 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05/26/2010, 06:26 AM   #8
RBU1
Moving on Up
 
RBU1's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Southern NJ
Posts: 5,074
Quote:
Originally Posted by reice05 View Post
My biggest thing is im confused on how to cycle/prep my QT for use.I got a HOB filter,pvc,heater,and heater. I cant leave it running all the time so i basically need to use mine on a as needed basis. So incase i needed to use it i would use water from my DT but how would i know or what would i do to make sure its ready for use??
You would have to use the filter that you are going to put on your QT in your main tank all the time. So it is seeded with bacteria and ready to go when you need it.


RBU1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05/26/2010, 03:00 PM   #9
reice05
Moved On
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Virginia
Posts: 347
Just the filter pad or the whole hob filter?? I was told to cut the bag open and dump everythin out since it will soak up any medicine I put in qt tank. Another thing could I just cut like a peice of sponge and keep it in my sump at all times without the filter pad and when it time to use qt put the sponge I. The filter pad and run it like that?


reice05 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05/26/2010, 07:55 PM   #10
Sisterlimonpot
R.C. Fraternity President
 
Sisterlimonpot's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Litchfeild Park AZ
Posts: 10,848
Blog Entries: 2
Right, if you're going to use a HOB filter in your QT then you can take one of the filter inserts and toss just the filter into the sump/fuge of the display tank and allow it to seed (6-8 weeks) then you can instantly start your QT. once the filter has been used in the QT don't add it back to the display tank. just add a new filter in the sump to get it ready for next time.


__________________
Jimmy
MASVC President

Dishes are done man!

Current Tank Info: Tankless
Sisterlimonpot is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05/27/2010, 09:04 PM   #11
reice05
Moved On
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Virginia
Posts: 347
Remove the insides right?? And what about the sponge??


reice05 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07/04/2010, 11:47 AM   #12
shrimphead
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 552
Quote:
Originally Posted by RBU1 View Post
You would have to use the filter that you are going to put on your QT in your main tank all the time. So it is seeded with bacteria and ready to go when you need it.
yea but that would be disastrous if he's dosing copper in his quarantine tank because when he puts the filter back into his main tank the copper will leach out of the filter and kill all his inverts/corals, if he has them that is.


shrimphead is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07/07/2010, 09:50 AM   #13
Sisterlimonpot
R.C. Fraternity President
 
Sisterlimonpot's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Litchfeild Park AZ
Posts: 10,848
Blog Entries: 2
Quote:
Originally Posted by shrimphead View Post
yea but that would be disastrous if he's dosing copper in his quarantine tank because when he puts the filter back into his main tank the copper will leach out of the filter and kill all his inverts/corals, if he has them that is.
That's not what he was saying, never put a filter that was used in the QT back in the display tank. If you do that, you run the risk of transferring just about anything from copper to ich to your display, once it served its purpose in the QT toss it and start a new filter in the display.


__________________
Jimmy
MASVC President

Dishes are done man!

Current Tank Info: Tankless
Sisterlimonpot is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07/16/2010, 07:14 PM   #14
jjk_reef00
Registered Member
 
jjk_reef00's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 3,503
Ich and Velvet thread with good info:
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh...readid=1500214


__________________
I need more fish tank appliances!
--Ed

Current Tank Info: 375 FOWLR
jjk_reef00 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08/02/2010, 08:45 AM   #15
chingchai
Premium Member
 
chingchai's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Bangkok Thailand
Posts: 5,625
This thread is very useful.
Thanks so much.

One question,
What should we do if the course is "Bacterial Infection in marine fish"?
Water change is the proper thing to do or is there any other option.


__________________
Ching (low profile)
" Life is too short to drink bad wine "
click on my homepage to see my tank on-line
chingchai is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08/04/2010, 01:36 PM   #16
lcs
It's Spring!!!!!!!
 
lcs's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Brockport, NY
Posts: 1,379
Thanks so much for having this information available!

I would like some opinions on something. I have a coral beauty that has been in QT for 10 days, with plans to keep him/her there for a total of 4 weeks - he would go in the DT on 8/15. Here's my question, I dipped him in prazipro before he went into the QT and I've been considering dipping him in a formalin/malachite green med I have before I put him in the DT. I would prefer to dip as I would rather not treat the tank. What are people's opinions on dipping versus treating the tank?


lcs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08/13/2010, 10:03 AM   #17
jasony816
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 211
what type of filtration do you guys perfer, HOB, simple sponge filter, or just a powerhead and change new water everday?


jasony816 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08/22/2010, 02:57 PM   #18
chimaera
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 4
if im going to use metronidazole as prophylaxis what is the effective and safe dosage? and how long do you have to keep the fish in the medicated water?


chimaera is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08/22/2010, 03:15 PM   #19
mrrogers
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 60
great info. Its nice to have a comprehensive guide


mrrogers is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10/25/2010, 02:49 PM   #20
nenna
Moved On
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 65
What medicines does everyone treat with even if no symptoms are showing?

Is copper the best preventative way of treating ich or do people still treat by hyposalinity?


nenna is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10/25/2010, 08:22 PM   #21
shrimphead
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 552
Quote:
Originally Posted by nenna View Post
What medicines does everyone treat with even if no symptoms are showing?

Is copper the best preventative way of treating ich or do people still treat by hyposalinity?
what about fresh water dips aswell


shrimphead is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11/01/2010, 02:50 PM   #22
Jacob D
Registered Member
 
Jacob D's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: North Bay
Posts: 6,623
Holy smokes... I had been away for a bit and there is a lot of chatter in this thread. I will attempt to answer to the best of my ability, but it's probably best to start a new thread in the forum if you have a question. The experience of everyone as a group is invaluable.


__________________
Jacob.

Current Tank Info: Retired from reefing...
Jacob D is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11/01/2010, 03:16 PM   #23
Jacob D
Registered Member
 
Jacob D's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: North Bay
Posts: 6,623
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sisterlimonpot View Post
That's not what he was saying, never put a filter that was used in the QT back in the display tank. If you do that, you run the risk of transferring just about anything from copper to ich to your display, once it served its purpose in the QT toss it and start a new filter in the display.
Correct. Don't transfer anything, especially something porus or any sort of substrate from your QT to your DT. Quite a few people like to start with a new sponge/biowheel and place it into their DT, then when the QT needs to be set up move that sponge into it to jumpstart the beneficial bacteria population. If/when it's time to break down the QT throw away the sponge, or at least soak it in bleach, then rinse it and let it dry out.




Quote:
Originally Posted by chingchai View Post
This thread is very useful.
Thanks so much.

One question,
What should we do if the course is "Bacterial Infection in marine fish"?
Water change is the proper thing to do or is there any other option.
Usually antibiotics will be in order. The exact treatment will depend on whether the infection is gram positive or gram negative bacteria. If it's difficult to distinguish then a broad spectrum drug such as Doxycycline can be used. p.s. I am envious of your beautiful tank, Sir




Quote:
Originally Posted by lcs View Post
Thanks so much for having this information available!

I would like some opinions on something. I have a coral beauty that has been in QT for 10 days, with plans to keep him/her there for a total of 4 weeks - he would go in the DT on 8/15. Here's my question, I dipped him in prazipro before he went into the QT and I've been considering dipping him in a formalin/malachite green med I have before I put him in the DT. I would prefer to dip as I would rather not treat the tank. What are people's opinions on dipping versus treating the tank?
Personally I would avoid the formalin/malachite bath unless you have a serious reason to do it. I realize this advice is probably coming too late but for anyone else that happens upon it... formalin is nasty stuff and can stress/kill fish easily. Save it as a last resort. When needed, using it in a bath seems to be a popular treatment method. Also, for future reference it may be wise to get your fish eating before starting Prazi based treatments as they tend to suppress appetite. It's a decision that has to be weighed if you know your fish has flukes.




Quote:
Originally Posted by jasony816 View Post
what type of filtration do you guys perfer, HOB, simple sponge filter, or just a powerhead and change new water everday?
This is a good topic for a new forum thread. In general, I personally prefer as much varied filtration in combination with water changes as possible. In situations where a medication will likely wipe out bilogical filtration you can decide to carry out treatment in a dip/bath outside the QT, or the alternative use treatment in the tank followed by regular water changes and careful monitoring of nitrite levels. Once the biological filtration is dead regular large water changes are a must. A powerhead will help aerate the water (especially if used to break the surface) but otherwise won't contribute to the filtration. If you're using carbon or similar chemical filtration don't forget to check the instructions of any medication you may be using; in many cases you may need to remove the chemical filtration in order for the medication to be effective. If you're using forms of mechanical filtration (filter socks, etc...) it's not a bad idea to clean them daily especially if fighting ich/ick.



Quote:
Originally Posted by nenna View Post
What medicines does everyone treat with even if no symptoms are showing?

Is copper the best preventative way of treating ich or do people still treat by hyposalinity?
This is a good topic for a new forum thread. I have personally changed my methods a little and now only treat with Prazi as prophylaxis, and almost always only once the fish are eating all of the foods I want them to eat. Whats "best" is subject to opinion. In the past I was using chloroquine (instead of copper) however both medications are immunosuppressants and that can leave your fish vulnerable to certain problems. If you wanted to copper your fish as prophylaxis I would look into chloroquine as an alternative. It doesn't get bound up by elements in the saltwater, thus you only need to dose it once, and only add more as you do water changes. Unfortunately you can't test it in the water so you must carefully keep track of how much you have dosed. Some fish (angels, butterflies) are sensitive to copper and chloroquine MAY be better for these fish. I have had good luck using it with butterflies but I'm only one person and my experience may not apply to someone else.




Quote:
Originally Posted by shrimphead View Post
what about fresh water dips aswell
FW dips (when temp and ph matched) can be useful. There is plenty of info on the web regarding using FW dips to treat various parasites. Someone recently mentioned the use of a FW dip prior to Prazi to get a good idea if the fish has flukes or not. It's a good approach, especially for fish that are picky eaters since the Prazi will suppress their appetite even more. If a FW dip reveals no flukes you may want to skip the Prazi - or at least hold off until the fish are eating well and fat, and then decide if you want to go ahead with it.



...ok I think that covered all of the questions. I would encourage everyone to post future questions to the main fish disease forum so you can get input from the greater experience of everyone here at RC. I am relatively inexperienced in QT and treatment of fish compared to many of the good people here.

If you're QT'ing and keeping a close eye on your wet friends then you're already giving yourself a much better chance to succeed! Keep up the good fight


__________________
Jacob.

Current Tank Info: Retired from reefing...

Last edited by Jacob D; 11/01/2010 at 03:21 PM.
Jacob D is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11/06/2010, 11:02 PM   #24
FranktheTankTx
Registered Member
 
FranktheTankTx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Texas
Posts: 2,290
Here's a question:

Where do you get these medications such as Prazi & others mentioned & what are they specifically called? How 'bout a link to what we're looking for?

Also, what are suggested steps as far as dips before QT? TMPCC??? For instance, perform a freshwater dip, then TMPCC dip, then place in QT. Good idea for all corals?


__________________
Frank the Tank

"What, I thought we were in the trust tree... in the nest? Are we not?"

Current Tank Info: Custom Rimless 60g (30.5"x24.5"x18.5")
FranktheTankTx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01/04/2011, 11:30 PM   #25
TampaReefer79
Premium Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Parts Unknown
Posts: 3,474
Wow, great thread. Subscribed for sure! I have nothing to add but am bumping this up due to some un-truths I've noticed floating around about treating ich lately.

Great write up!!


TampaReefer79 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Looking for a basic stand for a 210 jfl14609 Upstate Reef Society 0 05/09/2010 01:06 PM
Basic or Basic EX? villious GHL /ProfiLux / Mitras 3 05/04/2009 03:27 PM
SLOreefer's basic 15 gallon...well semi basic... SLOreefer Nano Reefs 27 12/16/2008 09:28 PM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 03:04 AM.


TapaTalk Enabled

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Powered by Searchlight © 2017 Axivo Inc.
Use of this web site is subject to the terms and conditions described in the user agreement.
Reef CentralTM Reef Central, LLC. Copyright 1999-2014