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Old 02/17/2011, 07:51 AM   #101
jkopp36
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Ok, so I cannot figure out how to attach a pic and don't have time to figure it out right now. I'll mess with it again later. Sorry.


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Old 02/17/2011, 08:16 AM   #102
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Peroxide only burns up what's in the water column. That includes the free floating green algae as well as free floating dinos. That's why your glass should be cleaner and your water should be clearer (similar to carbon dosing or running carbon, ozone...). It will not kill any types of filamentous algae unless it's removed from the tank and the peroxide is used as a dip. I haven't done that myself.

After 6 days, you should have seen some type of recession in the dinos, but it depends on how bad you have it. It took me about a week and a half to 2 weeks as well as siphoning them out to get rid of them and they haven't returned. In fact, other than a single small patch of bryopsis, my rock and sand look super clean.

I would say give it about another week and see. If you haven't, start sucking them out into a filter sock and re-use the water. It should help.


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Old 02/17/2011, 08:19 AM   #103
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Also -

Make sure you have a new(er) bottle of peroxide as it turns to water over time. Make sure that you don't expose it to light as it will degrade rapidly.

And make sure you're using the correct dosage.


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Old 02/17/2011, 08:23 AM   #104
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sneeyatch View Post
Peroxide only burns up what's in the water column. That includes the free floating green algae as well as free floating dinos. That's why your glass should be cleaner and your water should be clearer (similar to carbon dosing or running carbon, ozone...). It will not kill any types of filamentous algae unless it's removed from the tank and the peroxide is used as a dip. I haven't done that myself.
I've been adding the peroxide to my overflow so it just rushes down into the sump. Do you think if I dosed directly to the sump it would have a better impact, or would it still be doing the same thing? I'd prefer to not dose to my DT just so nothing gets burned by it.

After I cleaned up my sandbed yesterday I decided to dose another 5 mL to get the ORP back up. After I dosed, the ORP dropped, but then just rose back to normal, it didnt have an elevated level like when I dosed before. Any reason for this?


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Old 02/17/2011, 08:27 AM   #105
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Great input and thanks sneeyatch! I'm not giving up yet. I'll stick to your recommendations and we'll see how it goes. I'm probably a little light on dosage so I'll up it a little. I'm going to remeasure all my actual water volume tonight and adjust accordingly. I'm also only two days into lights off as I did not shut them down until you mentioned that a couple days ago after my question on it. I'll give that another day or two also although I have a lot of SPS and frags and don't want to push it.

One thing I forgot that has changed is that my skimmer does seem to be pulling more the past few days so my statement above about nothing really changing yet is incorrect. My bad!

Thanks again!


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Old 02/17/2011, 09:59 AM   #106
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I've been adding the peroxide to my overflow so it just rushes down into the sump. Do you think if I dosed directly to the sump it would have a better impact, or would it still be doing the same thing? I'd prefer to not dose to my DT just so nothing gets burned by it.

After I cleaned up my sandbed yesterday I decided to dose another 5 mL to get the ORP back up. After I dosed, the ORP dropped, but then just rose back to normal, it didnt have an elevated level like when I dosed before. Any reason for this?
I really couldn't tell you about the ORP fluctuations since I don't monitor it. Maybe I should get a monitor, but I always end up spending my cash on frags or fish...

I didn't add it to my overflow since my skimmer is located at the drain area of my sump so I was paranoid it would skim out. I always added it directly to the display or right at the return pump's intake

Quote:
Originally Posted by jkopp36 View Post
Great input and thanks sneeyatch! I'm not giving up yet. I'll stick to your recommendations and we'll see how it goes. I'm probably a little light on dosage so I'll up it a little. I'm going to remeasure all my actual water volume tonight and adjust accordingly. I'm also only two days into lights off as I did not shut them down until you mentioned that a couple days ago after my question on it. I'll give that another day or two also although I have a lot of SPS and frags and don't want to push it.

One thing I forgot that has changed is that my skimmer does seem to be pulling more the past few days so my statement above about nothing really changing yet is incorrect. My bad!

Thanks again!
I've read that you don't need to be spot-on concerning exact gallonage of your system - I didn't. I have a 150 gallon system with about 30 gallons in my sump. My measuring cup had a 20ml line, so that's what I used. Not very scientific on my part. I didn't compensate for rock or anything.


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Old 02/17/2011, 10:23 AM   #107
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I'll have to try putting it in my display rather than down the overflow...I didnt even think of the skimmer skimming it out. I'm running carbon down there as well...so I might not be utilizing it to the fullest.


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Old 02/17/2011, 02:11 PM   #108
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Hydrogen peroxide can oxidize anything the water column touches, which would include corals, etc. If the water column has a lot of organics in it, it's possible that the corals wouldn't get much of a dose, though.


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Old 02/17/2011, 05:56 PM   #109
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Im just wondering because if I dose my overflow..it goes down into my sump and has to batte with my protein skimmer and my carbon reactor. Maybe I should slowly drip 5 mL from the syringe into a high flow area in the main tank.

No major difference yet in the tank, although my lights (halides) are being ran for 2 hours longer than before. I still notice a lot of snot algae and bubbles. Still very early so I wasnt expecting crazy results. I'm only going to dose once a day, I've been dosing twice the past couple days. Only reason why is because my carpet anemone shrunk up a lot after the second dose yesterday..wasnt sure if that was because of the dosing or the syphoning of the sandbed and reintroducing the water. Might have just been re-acclimating itself to any water change.

I will keep an eye on the anemone activity after dosing.


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Old 02/17/2011, 06:10 PM   #110
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I think I may be finally seeing some positive results. The bubbles and snot were less today when I got home and I even had the lights come back on today. I dosed 40ml tonight which is only 5ml more than I was but I put 5ml directly into my frag tank (that's where the dinos are the worst actually) and the rest into the return section of my main sump so it basically went right to the DT via the returns. Before I was dosing the entire amount into my skimmer sump which makes the H2O2 have to do a bit of traveling before hitting problem areas. I think we're on the right track!


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Old 02/17/2011, 06:17 PM   #111
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thats good news jkopps, what is your dosage per gallon. I'm currently doing 1mL/g. and how long have you been dosing for? do you dose during the day when the lights are on or do you dose when the lights are off?


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Old 02/17/2011, 06:34 PM   #112
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Quote:
Originally Posted by t4zalews View Post
thats good news jkopps, what is your dosage per gallon. I'm currently doing 1mL/g. and how long have you been dosing for? do you dose during the day when the lights are on or do you dose when the lights are off?
I am dosing 1ml/g without taking into account live rock as of tonight. I started on the 11th of this month but I was only dosing 35ml on a 400g total system volume because of rock displacement and such. With sneeyatch's input I am dosing the full 40ml now. I dose in the evening which is about halfway through my lights on period of 8 hours. I did have the lights off the past two days but had them kick back on today. I have a lot of SPS and frags and didn't want to go too long without lights.


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Old 02/17/2011, 06:53 PM   #113
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I hear ya...I've had STN issues, but I recently brought my unstable alk to a stable 8. I blame that for the STN issues, not the peroxide. If anything, I noticed some dino's covering some SPS corals and I didnt pick it up quick enough. Let us know if you notice any changes in your SPS corals with burn spots. do u have any pictures of your tank?


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Old 02/17/2011, 08:44 PM   #114
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I dosed 5 mL to my display tank tonight and no ill signs from my anemone. I have to wait to see what my ORP jumps to tonight, but my ORP is not jumping high like it used to. It falls, but does not have a rapid increase like before.


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Old 02/18/2011, 06:09 AM   #115
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When I went through this problem (and yes, it shall pass with time and diligence) I was dosing peroxide 1ml/gal roughly, at night after the lights went out. I did 3 days completely no lights to kick start the regime, (then went to 2 hours for 3 days, 3 hours for 3 days, and 4 hours for 3 days, before returning to normal photo period; (my normal photoperiod is 6 hours) I have a BTA, so I wanted to give him at least a couple hours to recharge after the initial 3 days off.
I also put filter floss in the first baffle of my bubble trap in the sump, washing it out every other day, cleaned my skimmer cup/neck every 3 days, cut back on feedings, and continued the peroxide (20 ml) every day for 2.5 weeks. I had no dinos at all after the 2 week period, but did an extra 3 days to be sure. I still dose the peroxide twice weekly (maybe unnecessary, but I think of it as a preventitive thing) but the dinos have been gone now for 4 months.
You are certainly on the right track, and know you will beat this.
I don't contribute my success to any one thing, but rather the combination of things and diligence. Keep up the good work, and keep us posted.


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Old 02/18/2011, 07:39 AM   #116
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My ORP did not go as high as before..it only went to 324, which is pretty average. I was getting readings of 360 earlier in the week. I wonder why?


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Old 02/18/2011, 08:11 AM   #117
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Originally Posted by jkopp36 View Post
I am dosing 1ml/g without taking into account live rock as of tonight. I started on the 11th of this month but I was only dosing 35ml on a 400g total system volume because of rock displacement and such. With sneeyatch's input I am dosing the full 40ml now. I dose in the evening which is about halfway through my lights on period of 8 hours. I did have the lights off the past two days but had them kick back on today. I have a lot of SPS and frags and didn't want to go too long without lights.
you will be fine going for 3 days without lights. many people have done it with sps in their tank and had no problems. i havent seen anyone successful in using peroxide and getting rid of the dinos without the 3-4 days of lights off. i hope you are the first

i would also try to dose in the morning to hit the dinos before the consume the lights and get half the day to spread


the other thing that really seemed to help for me was running filter socks and changing them daily. i have never seen a sock clog up so fast as when i had dinos and was dosing peroxide

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Old 02/18/2011, 08:27 AM   #118
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you will be fine going for 3 days without lights. many people have done it with sps in their tank and had no problems. i havent seen anyone successful in using peroxide and getting rid of the dinos without the 3-4 days of lights off. i hope you are the first

i would also try to dose in the morning to hit the dinos before the consume the lights and get half the day to spread


the other thing that really seemed to help for me was running filter socks and changing them daily. i have never seen a sock clog up so fast as when i had dinos and was dosing peroxide

bob
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Thanks for the input. It all makes a lot of sense. I may end up resetting and taking all this input provided here to redo the process. I do think things are finally starting to turn around though. One question on lights off - do I need to cover the front of my tank? It's an in-wall setup and the only side of the tank exposed to light is the front but the room is not real bright from sunlight and the tank is about 20 feet from the closest window.

Also, I stated above that I was dosing 1ml/g - that should have read 1ml/10g. Just wanted to make that clear.


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Old 02/18/2011, 08:28 AM   #119
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Here's the ORP graph I tried to post earlier:


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Old 02/18/2011, 08:41 AM   #120
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i have seen people use garbage bags and toatlly shut out any light, i only ran with lights out and didnt use any sort of covering. either way, as long as the lights are out, you should be good.

i didnt want to post this earlier for fear of pointing someone in the wrong direction, but i actually dosed once in the morning and once at night. i took the risk and had no problems, but since most are just dosing once a day and having success i didnt feel the need to explain the double dosing


i have been dino free for a while, and every few days, i still drop a capful in my 125 just as a maintainence dose

i think the total coverage thing has come people not dosing peroxide.


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Old 02/18/2011, 09:12 AM   #121
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Here's the ORP graph I tried to post earlier:
I wish my ORP was that high. I'm stuck at the 320's level. I know you shouldnt judge your tank by the ORP level, but I'd like to be up in the 350-380 region.


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Old 02/18/2011, 09:31 AM   #122
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Just want to share my experience with Dinos:

I was dosing VSV to try and improve the colours of my SPS, without having any detectable nitrate or phosphate. I foolishly kept dosing more and more, eventually dinos took over my entire tank.

Took me a good 6 months to figure out I was causing the problem, after changing just about everything else about my tank.

After I stopped dosing within 2 weeks most of the dinos were gone, I would say 90% are gone now, with the remaining bits no longer active (not producing bubbles) and waiting for me to syphon them away with a water change.

I guess in the absence of excess N and P, the dinos can use the carbon source to grow more efficiently than the bacteria I was trying to feed.

So stop dosing carbon if you have a dino problem!


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Old 02/18/2011, 09:58 AM   #123
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I wish my ORP was that high. I'm stuck at the 320's level. I know you shouldnt judge your tank by the ORP level, but I'd like to be up in the 350-380 region.
I was considering using the hydrogen peroxide, but after re-calibrating my ph probe and using more kalk slurry, twice a day, the dino's are in serious retreat. I'm keeping ph around 8.6 and no ill effects to anything but the dino's. To the OP, if you haven't tried the pickling lime route you really should. I also did two 15-20% wc and run carbon and gfo. I've only had them about a week, so I caught it early.


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Old 02/18/2011, 11:36 AM   #124
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Twon - glad to hear you had a positive response with kalk. I tried to do it as well since my entire ATO was geared toward topping off with kalk so I figured I was going to be a step ahead. My only issue was I don't have a pH probe - only test kits and I was having issues keeping my pH at 8.6 consistently. One of the major advantages I was hoping for was that phosphates precipitate out over time using kalk, but after doing more research, I realized that having a low nutrient system does nothing to help combat the snot.

I want to clarify that the peroxide route not only does wonders for dino's but it also gives cyano and green water a run for it's money.


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Old 02/18/2011, 11:43 AM   #125
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^^^ I had a small patch of cyano and have noticed it receding.


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