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Old 07/01/2016, 11:39 PM   #8626
karimwassef
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ok. rebuild happening

Here's the new design. it's odd shaped to fit the contours of the tank/space/fixtures around it.

 photo 1E28958D-8397-4E4D-800B-673FFDBBE53D_zpsmhziulgl.jpg

The hashed marker on the top of the top-pipe is where the water will flood up and down around the 1" pipe.

Then, the 2" pipe goes around it and will have a slit on the bottom. The idea is to get the water to go all the way down the arms before heading to the slit

 photo F500548F-3696-4991-9ED8-536F0B17CF9E_zpse7kplglb.jpg

ok - not so pretty, but I think it shows how the pieces fit together for assembly

 photo 90013718-46C2-4F1F-B69C-D677AD9BA194_zps5yamgns6.jpg

 photo 328BC749-F137-46E4-BCAD-006B48EA9070_zpsxlr4gpmg.jpg


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Old 07/01/2016, 11:46 PM   #8627
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here's the "overflow" 1" pipe cut

 photo 61169542-7D69-4DFA-A356-3C2043A9E317_zps3vh86v0t.jpg

I used 1 1/2" PVC around the 1" pipe just before the 1" elbows to create a seal inside the 2" "slit" pipe. I used epoxy putty to hold it all together and create a seal.

 photo 01788DAA-DCF9-4554-A680-755D982E12C9_zpsz5pcu9l5.jpg

and this is how they'll actually go together with the "overflow" 1" pointing up and the "slit" 2" pointing down.

 photo 5CDEB217-BA50-4F54-93E4-0BF5BB77C30F_zps4n14m6e8.jpg

and assembly:

 photo 9188BC2A-41E2-41B8-8915-48E63373AC67_zps2yc4kexz.jpg

here are the "sealed" ends

 photo E87B89F9-960E-416A-AAEB-1721BFBF37DD_zpswfqvckjt.jpg

 photo 47663DC9-BA34-4C0D-9F94-D0193BAF2698_zpsyciqfvui.jpg

I had to break the 2" PVC so I could get the 1" Tee inside it

 photo F49ED252-C176-4981-A5E3-4E23D26E0894_zpsuthsru2b.jpg

I also decided to add zip-tie streamers to guide the flow out of the slit

 photo C76B0B7E-7167-44CA-8A0A-423086DC2DFE_zpspeyjvwiq.jpg


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Failure isn't an option It's a requirement. 660g 380inwall+280smp/surge S/L/Soft/Maxima/RBTA/Clown/Chromis/Anthias/Tang/Mandarin/Jawfish/Goby/Wrasse/D'back. DIY 12' Skimmer ActuatedSurge ConcreteScape
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Old 07/01/2016, 11:46 PM   #8628
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and then epoxy to seal it all up

 photo 6702896E-8E06-4F9D-AAD5-8D16A96EA952_zpsymutkyw6.jpg

 photo B8169399-BC7C-4E52-B50C-183A184F6549_zps9cviuh79.jpg

 photo 3655C3DD-F821-46EA-8C26-E993CF28817E_zpsm1bobadp.jpg

I decided to use the epoxy gel mix to create a "coating". This works because none of this is under any real pressure.

and the fully sealed ends

 photo 5AB0F6BD-1CB1-41E4-84B8-B0DCFA7562E1_zpsinisay4s.jpg

 photo D9383B1B-FA51-4F87-8AEC-06F8A715FFE5_zpscfm7jpwj.jpg

and here's what it looks like for testing

 photo B318FF61-9463-4A69-820A-0255601E4E95_zpssdnu71rv.jpg


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Old 07/01/2016, 11:50 PM   #8629
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first trial shows that this actually moves the water to the ends, but leaves the middle empty.

 photo F2BF7383-C3BA-4200-A271-C9D8DFEF4286_zpsy6szdfvz.jpg

I realized that I can use zipties to modulate the slit width - so I added zipties to the ends to reduce flow there. I let the zipties hang down creating more "streamers"

 photo 56F9FB94-8D88-40CB-A2EA-B5B85E946D2E_zpsxnyhmwp7.jpg

 photo 67CDE0DF-7301-4360-A901-D190C60FDA53_zps3pdjj0n8.jpg

that was pretty good

I decided to drill a couple of holes in the 1" pipe at the Tee since there's no "overflow" there and to compensate for the weak mid-path flow.

 photo C53EC738-02BD-442E-8604-064EB96D98D6_zpscws3phqh.jpg

 photo 1BE43A49-319E-45AA-BCC3-031DDFA6B58F_zpsc0slj9yr.jpg

That looks decent.

Then I cut back the streamers to prep for the sheet assembly

 photo 8A3F1B3B-75AD-45B3-A94E-99D46E45A48B_zpswqgds6fm.jpg


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Old 07/01/2016, 11:51 PM   #8630
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By the way, my waterfall is especially hard because it's all gravity fed. Any clog would flood the tank above it, so the flow path has to be as open as possible but still uniform - double hard to do.


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Old 07/02/2016, 01:06 PM   #8631
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Is it just me or has this thread been hijacked?


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180 gallon, 40 gallon sump, 8 ATI T5's, MTC MVX 36 Skimmer, Apex controller Reef Octopus CaRx

Current Tank Info: Red Head, Yellow/Purple, Hoevans, Possum Wrasses, Kole, Purple & Atlantic Blue Tangs, Matted Filefish, Percula Clown, 4 PJ Cardinals, Swallowtail Angel
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Old 07/02/2016, 01:51 PM   #8632
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hkgar View Post
Is it just me or has this thread been hijacked?
In a good way, yes.


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Old 07/02/2016, 03:40 PM   #8633
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Well. I can start my own build thread

I figured that everyone was posting their pics and builds here for group help, so....

I'll pose the question to the OP and the oldest regular poster for reference...

srusso, Floyd, others - think I should start a separate thread? I'm good with it if it's a distraction


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Old 07/02/2016, 03:52 PM   #8634
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Or maybe we need a new "Basics" thread. I can't imagine someone new to ATS or the hobby being able to wade through 346 pages and pull out the "right" information.


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Old 07/02/2016, 03:55 PM   #8635
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Can you achieve ulns with an upflow ats? Or would you be better off carbon dosing?


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Old 07/02/2016, 03:57 PM   #8636
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Karim (just guessing at the name)

I posted the question about being hijacked, so let me explain.

I find the story of your battle with nutrients due to the location and the huge number of insects quite interesting and I am not really upset and have enjoyed, and learned a bit from, your posts.

I do think the intend of this thread, as I see it, to help the average reefer understand ATS and how to build, by comparison, a basic functioning ATS. I think some of the "little" guys may be getting lost in the many pages about you build and challenges.

I might have approached it with - "Hi I am ***, I have and unusual problem (explain) and will start my own thread and please find it, read it and help me". Actually, I am not sure any of us, including the OP or Floyd, have any idea how to help with your very unique situation (problem).

My suggestion, start your own thread as Dimini2 did with his reef tank build.


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180 gallon, 40 gallon sump, 8 ATI T5's, MTC MVX 36 Skimmer, Apex controller Reef Octopus CaRx

Current Tank Info: Red Head, Yellow/Purple, Hoevans, Possum Wrasses, Kole, Purple & Atlantic Blue Tangs, Matted Filefish, Percula Clown, 4 PJ Cardinals, Swallowtail Angel
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Old 07/02/2016, 05:40 PM   #8637
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hmmm.. The middle path has saved many - so I'll split the difference. I'll start my own thread and then post a link here. I'll continue to post finished results and broad questions, but not the same level of detail.

By the way - many of the improvements have come through the recommendations made by posters on this thread - so I consider myself one of the "little" guys and I'm here to learn as well as share. When I fail, it should help someone else do better.

Karim


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Old 07/02/2016, 06:05 PM   #8638
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as promised

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh...4#post24610054

enjoy and please join if you want to see more (and subscribe to my youtube if you like it too)


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Old 07/02/2016, 09:32 PM   #8639
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As promised - just the results




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Failure isn't an option It's a requirement. 660g 380inwall+280smp/surge S/L/Soft/Maxima/RBTA/Clown/Chromis/Anthias/Tang/Mandarin/Jawfish/Goby/Wrasse/D'back. DIY 12' Skimmer ActuatedSurge ConcreteScape
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Old 07/03/2016, 01:02 AM   #8640
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Originally Posted by karimwassef View Post
as promised

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh...4#post24610054

enjoy and please join if you want to see more (and subscribe to my youtube if you like it too)
I'll be following along.

Perhaps it's time for a locked sticky detailing the latest info? It would be much simpler for anyone new to ATS.


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Old 07/03/2016, 05:42 AM   #8641
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Quote:
Can you achieve ulns with an upflow ats? Or would you be better off carbon dosing?
Depends on what numbers you mean, and how good you build and run your scrubber, and if you have other filters. Any type of scrubber can get numbers to zero on regular test kits once the tank has cycled, if that is your goal. Algae is algae, and photosynthesis is photosynthesis. There just has to be enough of it at all times. Photosynthesis = Light x area x attachment x air/water interface turbulence.

If that is your goal, and if there are no other filters or water changes, then you'll want multiple scrubbers so that at least one is always filtering when you clean the other. When algae is the only filter, nutrients shoot up real quick when the filter stops. An advantage of an upflow is that it does not really mat down if you can't clean it on time, and it won't dry out if the power goes out. And placement and cleaning is easier. Some of the new waterfall designs I'll be posting solve some issues, but they are not viewable yet.

Adding carbon changes the control of what get the low numbers. The carbon will usually win if run strong enough, and will really slow down the algae. So they sort of fight each other. Same with GFO. The only carbon that gets into real reef water is from algae (glucose), so real reef water does not have to deal with extra carbon being added. All the filtering there is done by photosynthesis.

Many people have trouble using carbon, and try adding on a scrubber to fix it. It's better however if you just start with scrubber-only.


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Old 07/05/2016, 01:14 PM   #8642
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I'll be following along.

Perhaps it's time for a locked sticky detailing the latest info? It would be much simpler for anyone new to ATS.
I can agree with that. I'm new to ATS and as much as I'd like to get all the info 340+ pages would take days to read. As it is I've spent 5+ hours reading the first several pages and now the last 20ish. I have a few questions about them but don't want to be one of "those people" asking for the millionth time.

Floyd is very helpful giving post numbers in his signature with important information but even those seem a bit outdated to a degree, especially when it comes to lighting. From everything I'm seeing now there are LED units that work well and are not very expensive?


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Old 07/05/2016, 04:43 PM   #8643
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You can contact the admins and ask for a scrubber category or sub-section if you want.


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Old 07/05/2016, 06:31 PM   #8644
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Thanks Turbo! Looking forward to getting this mortar screen on the Turbo L3 soon. Soaking it a few days first.




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You can check out my parameters at reeftronics dot net website and look for my username.

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Old 07/06/2016, 10:17 AM   #8645
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Ok, after lots and lots of readings, I have finally have my ATS up and running. I will post some pics, the issue till now is water is not uniformly falling throughout the whole screen. I think I might have to redo the slit.

Got one chines flood light IP65 waterproof of 40 watts. Lets hope it does its job well - red 660nm and blue 455 nm


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Old 07/06/2016, 11:49 AM   #8646
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Flow should even out after growth starts.


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Old 07/06/2016, 12:56 PM   #8647
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Quote:
Originally Posted by karimwassef View Post
Ok... Red and white PAR came in at 360 but I attribute that to better wiring (lower resistance) since it also consumed more current ~ 10A total.

 photo 677FD06A-EF56-4ABB-80BE-AAA00892A195_zpshhgpcfcn.jpg

 photo 8D8146E2-21A7-4AB1-93A9-88DC6C91289C_zpsctnmxdun.jpg

The wiring needs some improvement, but both the blue and red sides are up and running.

The power is ~ 10A per side for a total of 240W

 photo 4A5AB208-A115-484F-B455-D69075B177A4_zpsa9qqjvbg.jpg

 photo B1FA73B6-D67C-47E3-9751-8F46554E5097_zps0oq0iwoh.jpg

 photo F849EB7E-B7ED-49DB-ABAB-4854DA8D43F8_zpsytdd7exs.jpg

 photo FD0E2FC8-83B6-48FC-90DE-6732D89F9B70_zps59resqmd.jpg
You are using a lot less then 10 amps per side. It's actually 1 amp per side if you have 240w total. 240 \120 is is 2 amps


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Old 07/06/2016, 01:05 PM   #8648
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How often should we be scraping the brown growth off our screens? I just got my scrubber online and every 3-4 days I am basically taking my screen back to the white mesh because I know the brown stuff doesnt really grow all that thick. I just pulled my screen out now and took a picture of it below. Should I be cleaning it every 3-4 days like I have been or since its finally getting slightly greener should I only clean every 7-14?




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Old 07/06/2016, 03:07 PM   #8649
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You are using a lot less then 10 amps per side. It's actually 1 amp per side if you have 240w total. 240 \120 is is 2 amps
10A per panel x 12V x 2 panels = 240W


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Old 07/06/2016, 06:45 PM   #8650
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Ahhh 12v. Makes sense now lol my bad


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