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Old 02/18/2011, 10:00 AM   #101
fraggleRocks
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my scrubber :

when it started






a month later. I added a second screen and upped the wattage on the bulbs.









pictures were taken right after setting up the second screen.


Maintenance is a breeze, I diddnt glue the ends of the pvc so I just pop the ends before the elbows out of place and take it to my sink. I marked the elbow and the joining pvc with a sharpie so I make sure when I put it back in the scrubber pvc doesn't go in crooked.


Now for the figures:

starting levels:

Nitrate was around 30
P04 was a whopping 2.21 YIKES!


after a month and half with the scrubber:

Nitrate: ZERO!!!
P04: 0.11 and still steadily dropping! Tested with Hanna meter

My feeding schedule - I feed 2 frozen cubes a day of assorted store bought foods, i try to mix it up a little, but the equivalent is 2 cubes per day.
I also feed a pinch of flakes once a day
and dose 2 cap-fulls of DT Phyto once a week

I have no protein skimmer anymore, I sold my Tunze months ago. I no longer run phosgaurd since adding the skimmer. The only thing I do is a 2 part dose weekly, Iodine every once in a while, and I run carbon in the sump. I don't do water changes anymore, just top-offs.


and with all this feeding the fish are fat, corals healthy and growing (mix of SPS, LPS, and softies...), and macro in the DT has been dwindling since adding the scrubber. Actually, the reason I wanted to add the scrubber to begin with was the overgrowing macro in the DT. I wanted a natural and gradual way to get rid of it without the use of chemicals, and this has worked wonderfully.

Just make sure to clean the screen weekly.

I just wanted to add that the day I learned about algae scrubbers was one of the best days in my saltwater journey, thank you Chirs! The scrubber has put an end to one of my biggest concerns with my tank, and a great side-effect is that it oxygenates the water and all the corals/fish are extremely well fed and thriving.



-Cindy



What I would like to do differently: add a light shield so the algae doesn't grow into the pipe and restrict water flow. Every 2 days I go in with a toothbrush and scrub the top to prevent this...

also, I would love to lift up the scrubber more, to be able to shine light directly parallel onto the screen, preventing light from shining on the bottom of the sump. Algae and coraline are starting to grow on the sump floor



FYI: I just moved the tank to a new apartment and will post full tank shot with updates of scrubber in a few weeks when everything is settled in again


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Current Tank Info: 150 gallon reef, brand-new all LED lighting, mixes sps, lps, and softies

Last edited by fraggleRocks; 02/18/2011 at 10:08 AM.
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Old 02/18/2011, 10:14 AM   #102
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Allmost View Post
but no SPS !
all of my sps are super happy now and the growth is exponentially faster than when I diddnt have the scrubber and only ran the skimmer.

In fact, I had a tri-color colony about 6inches x 7 inches that had been slowly STN'ing for over 6 months, 3 weeks after I added the scrubber it started coloring up again, stopped stn'ing, and has been showing signs of new growth.

I encourage you to set up a small experimental tank. get a biocube or aquapod and fill it with your choice of sps, good lighting, and sufficient flow. Add a scrubber and let us know what happens


I might do this soon. Look out for a thread...


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Current Tank Info: 150 gallon reef, brand-new all LED lighting, mixes sps, lps, and softies
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Old 02/18/2011, 10:29 AM   #103
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I have run ATS since September following these guidelines above. Not nearly as fancy as Floyd though.

SPS have grown and people in local club have commented that SPS are growing out nicely. I have a continuous diatom problem before the ATS and that was gone in two weeks. Only trace valonia remains. SPS are easy this way.

Soft corals have not flourished as well in this lower nutrient system, but that is not my goal. Unfortunately I had one fish that never reacted well to captivity die after year. The ATS handled it very well. It is a very very forgiving system that most people run with an old set up or incorrectly maintained.

I haven't had any bleaching since I started and will keep it long term.


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Old 02/18/2011, 10:36 AM   #104
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I haven't seen many ATS systems on freshwater, but if you do a search there are a ton of ATS applications for Koi and other outdoor ponds.


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Old 02/18/2011, 12:03 PM   #105
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I haven't seen many ATS systems on freshwater, but if you do a search there are a ton of ATS applications for Koi and other outdoor ponds.
Yeah I liked the Koi pond build, it used the sun to grow the algae! Talk about simple and energy efficient!!


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Old 02/18/2011, 01:30 PM   #106
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Did my water quality test. Need to get a PO4 tester which I'm doing later today so I don't have a reading for that yet.

KH: 11.2
CAL: 420
PH: 8.2
AMONIA: 0
NO2: 0
NO3: looks like maybe 0-2


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Old 02/18/2011, 01:43 PM   #107
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I suggest the Hanna Checker Phosphate meter. Took figuring a couple tricks out, but it's a lot more accurate than any liquid test and pretty cheap


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Old 02/18/2011, 01:47 PM   #108
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Ok. Ill see if the place I'm going to has that. The place I'm going to specializes in reefs and I think all they use are chemicals.


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Old 02/18/2011, 02:31 PM   #109
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Floyd R Turbo View Post
I suggest the Hanna Checker Phosphate meter. Took figuring a couple tricks out, but it's a lot more accurate than any liquid test and pretty cheap

great way to test

Thats how I always get my P04 tested. LFS here charges $3 to test but its well worth it, my API test kit is crud compared to this


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Current Tank Info: 150 gallon reef, brand-new all LED lighting, mixes sps, lps, and softies
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Old 02/18/2011, 02:35 PM   #110
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HH_CwOSytuk

feel free to comment.


Video of my tank before adding the second scrubber, and the diminishing DT algae. Sorry I dont have any "before" shots of the algae problem up, but I assure you all it was a lot worse!

Now its pretty much GONE.


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"I swear first it was zoas, next it was acans, and now I'm addicted to chalices. At least it's not crack I guess." - LiveRock27

Current Tank Info: 150 gallon reef, brand-new all LED lighting, mixes sps, lps, and softies
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Old 02/18/2011, 03:17 PM   #111
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fraggleRocks View Post
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HH_CwOSytuk

feel free to comment.


Video of my tank before adding the second scrubber, and the diminishing DT algae. Sorry I dont have any "before" shots of the algae problem up, but I assure you all it was a lot worse!

Now its pretty much GONE.
Tank looks good, love the athenas!!
One comment on your scrubber, the lighting too close at the top and too far away at the bottem. Any chance you could increase the length of PVC that way the lights could be angled better?

Ps... How the help did your camera just go scuba! Is it water proof?


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General Interest Forums > Advanced Topics > Algae Scrubber Basics Thread
Basics Write Up - Post #1 | Quick Troubleshooting - Post #1902 | Alternate/Updated Sizing - Post #2723 | Latest Summary - Post #3251 - #3264
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Old 02/18/2011, 07:27 PM   #112
importspeedman
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hi
I am about to build an ats for a 140gal freshwater cichlid tank. I will be making a box for it and a doubled up screen and t5 lighting. I am curious to know if it is ok to use 4 t5 bulbs on one side and 2 on the other side of the ats, or would this end up giving me problems in the future?
I am trying to build this thing as close as I can to the suggested specs but its kinda difficult to do and keep as efficient as possible. I dont wanna run any more than six bulbs.
Thanks
Rich


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Old 02/18/2011, 08:32 PM   #113
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Quote:
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hi
I am about to build an ats for a 140gal freshwater cichlid tank. I will be making a box for it and a doubled up screen and t5 lighting. I am curious to know if it is ok to use 4 t5 bulbs on one side and 2 on the other side of the ats, or would this end up giving me problems in the future?
I am trying to build this thing as close as I can to the suggested specs but its kinda difficult to do and keep as efficient as possible. I dont wanna run any more than six bulbs.
Thanks
Rich
What it will do is create more growth on one side then the other. Could three lights be used on each side? If you must have an uneven lighting on each side, then I may suggest that you do something that in theroy should work. I have not tested this in any way and I invite other more expriranced builders to comment on this... My advise is to build an oversized screen, and clean one side once a week. The side that remains untouched for the week is the one with only two lights. After cleaning the side that had four bulb growth for the week. Flip the screen and allow the two bulb side to grow for a week in the four bulb side.

That make sense?
Whatever you build please post build and results here, we will be happy to help in any way we can.

Cichlid tanks tend to be very crowded anyway so an oversized scrubber maybe recommended. How many fish in the 140G?

Should be an interesting build, keep us updated.


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General Interest Forums > Advanced Topics > Algae Scrubber Basics Thread
Basics Write Up - Post #1 | Quick Troubleshooting - Post #1902 | Alternate/Updated Sizing - Post #2723 | Latest Summary - Post #3251 - #3264
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Old 02/18/2011, 08:41 PM   #114
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Understand completely. The reason I was considering doing it this way was budget. There are cheap light fixtures on ebay but only in 2 and 4 bulb configurations (why I was thinking 2&4 config). I was thinking of retrofit but couldnt find a decent price on a kit, But just now I found this http://www.fosterandsmithaquatics.co...m?pcatid=19811 so I think I will be able to use three per side. What ya think of this kit? Worth 48 bucks each?


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Old 02/18/2011, 09:07 PM   #115
Floyd R Turbo
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Interesting fixture you found there. I've been trying like crazy to find endcaps like the ones that come with that fixture to no avail - they're always sold out or something, possibly discontinued.

As for the build, I agree with srusso, clean the 4 lamp side and rotate the 2 lamp to the 4 lamp side. Of course, just use your judgement. I think (emphasis on think) you will get good growth if you are using the fixtures I think you're talking about from eBay (top dog or something is the seller).

One thing to note, when you say "doubled up screen" are you thinking of using 2 screens back to back? If so, do not do this. If you rough up one screen enough, it will have all the algae holding power you need. Double screens were attempted and the result was to advise against their use due to many factors.


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Algae Scrubber Basics!!! GOOGLE "algaescrubber zoho"
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Old 02/18/2011, 09:41 PM   #116
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Floyd R Turbo View Post
One thing to note, when you say "doubled up screen" are you thinking of using 2 screens back to back? If so, do not do this. If you rough up one screen enough, it will have all the algae holding power you need. Double screens were attempted and the result was to advise against their use due to many factors.
+1 Yeah, I don't think you should use two screens. I missed that the first read through, good catch Floyd!


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General Interest Forums > Advanced Topics > Algae Scrubber Basics Thread
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Old 02/18/2011, 10:21 PM   #117
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Ok cool thank you for the word of caution, I will only use one screen. Yes the seller is Topdogsellers. They are cheap lights but I don't know of there quality (I may just go with the hagen's I posted earlier with some decent reflectors).
Just to give you guys a little background info my tank is a 140 and have a 40 for a sump.
The screen I am planning on using will most likely be 20Lx10T.
I am waiting for my water blaster hy5000 to come in the mail (tomorrow or monday).
I am going to try a BA overflow (probably wont work).
There will be 6 cichlids in the display, one in the sump(until i find him a new home), 1 pleco (smaller breed), and two silver dollars.
In your opinion will six 24watt t5's work on this?



Last edited by importspeedman; 02/18/2011 at 10:30 PM.
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Old 02/18/2011, 10:46 PM   #118
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Well the reef store I went to didn't have any PO4 tests so ill prob have to order one online because the LFS doesn't have one either


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Old 02/18/2011, 10:54 PM   #119
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Picked up this little Guy today.



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Old 02/18/2011, 10:58 PM   #120
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Quote:
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I am going to try a BA overflow (probably wont work).
are you talking about doing a beananimal on your existing tank? That would be a challenge.

I'm doing one on my 120, which I am off to pay for tomorrow. $335 + tax at an LFS for an Aqueon/All Glass 2x2x4. Good deal? Oh yeah! Kool-aid!

Anyways...yeah I think I'm doing an acrylic internal overflow to external box for the 3-pipe, joined by 4 bulkhead (based on a design on the BA thread)


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Old 02/18/2011, 11:09 PM   #121
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Oh sorry I didn't mean califlow with bean animal plumbing, just the bean animal plumbing (if it doesn't work ill place my ats above the tank and feed with the return).
Anyways do you think 144watts and a screen of 20x10 will work?
and great buy on that 120 tank.


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Old 02/18/2011, 11:12 PM   #122
BluScrnOdeth
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Oh sorry I didn't mean califlow with bean animal plumbing, just the bean animal plumbing (if it doesn't work ill place my ats above the tank and feed with the return).
Anyways do you think 144watts and a screen of 20x10 will work?
and great buy on that 120 tank.
12x20. That's enough for 240gallons


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Old 02/18/2011, 11:17 PM   #123
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12x20. That's enough for 240gallons
sorry i meant 20x10 i changed my post.
I do know that a 20x10 is "supposed" to work for up-to 200gallons


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Old 02/18/2011, 11:23 PM   #124
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sorry i meant 20x10 i changed my post
Still. That's enough for 200gal. Its not bad to go over though because lets say you put a lot of fish in that 140. You need a scrubber of adiquate size to remove all the ammonia and what not created by the extra fish. The more fish, the more of a scrubber you need.


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Old 02/18/2011, 11:26 PM   #125
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Cool cool, thank you.


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