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Old 05/06/2011, 08:56 PM   #176
yoccm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redneckgearhead View Post
Check with the tank maker before putting foam under the tank and spray-in foam will do nothing to support the weight of the tank in these areas. And by the sounds of it, I would be hunting a new carpenter. You learn to crown your boards up on day one. Can you remove the board and replace it?
He also didn't learn to use screws vs nails

The whole thing is nailed together and then nailed into the cement floor!!


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Old 05/06/2011, 09:39 PM   #177
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Can you hammer a board in there to raise the lower part of the stand?

Can you raise the tank? If so, maybe put a piece of 3/4" plywood on top, shim that level, screw it down, and place the tank on the ply.

Shimming the tank is one of those things that would probabally be ok but I would not recommend it. Try to remove as many probaballys as possible when dealing with 300 gallons of water in your home.


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Old 05/06/2011, 09:59 PM   #178
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Originally Posted by launchnukes View Post
Can you hammer a board in there to raise the lower part of the stand?

Can you raise the tank? If so, maybe put a piece of 3/4" plywood on top, shim that level, screw it down, and place the tank on the ply.

Shimming the tank is one of those things that would probabally be ok but I would not recommend it. Try to remove as many probaballys as possible when dealing with 300 gallons of water in your home.
I do have some head room so I could take down the tank and put another piece of plywood on top. The simplest solution would be the shims but I don't want to take any chances. I could try jacking up the middle of the board and putting a vertical support in the middle - might close the gap.


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Old 05/06/2011, 10:13 PM   #179
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I'm no expert by any means but personally I would try one of those two options over shimming the tank itself. I would try jacking up the stand first and if that doesnt work try the additional plywood option. Maybe someone better qualified can chime in though.


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Old 05/06/2011, 10:49 PM   #180
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yoccm View Post
I do have some head room so I could take down the tank and put another piece of plywood on top. The simplest solution would be the shims but I don't want to take any chances. I could try jacking up the middle of the board and putting a vertical support in the middle - might close the gap.
DON'T Shim the Tank!

If you add another board ontop it will eventually settle into the opening there now.

You kinda have two options. Pull the plywood up and re-level the framing.

or Sand down the high spots and level out the lows with polyurea style epoxy resin or similar.

Third option is best. Make yourself a big pitcher of lemonade and watch your contractor fix his mistake!

Bummer scenario, if you had a rimless tank this part of your thread wouldn't exist, 1/2" styrofoam works perfect on rimless tanks.


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Old 05/07/2011, 06:34 AM   #181
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Originally Posted by RootsRockReefer View Post
DON'T Shim the Tank!

If you add another board ontop it will eventually settle into the opening there now.

You kinda have two options. Pull the plywood up and re-level the framing.

or Sand down the high spots and level out the lows with polyurea style epoxy resin or similar.

Third option is best. Make yourself a big pitcher of lemonade and watch your contractor fix his mistake!

Bummer scenario, if you had a rimless tank this part of your thread wouldn't exist, 1/2" styrofoam works perfect on rimless tanks.

I think I will try to jack up the 2x8 to shrink the gap and then pound in a vertical upright to hold it. I can then assess the remaining gap and go from there.

How much of a gap becomes too much??? I would assume most stands have some amount of gap that settles out when you put the weight of the water in the tank.


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Last edited by yoccm; 05/07/2011 at 06:53 AM.
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Old 05/07/2011, 07:50 PM   #182
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Did you check with a straight edge, the plastic frame and the table top to see if it was the plastic frame or not? 1/8 does seem quite a bit.


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Old 05/07/2011, 08:45 PM   #183
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Assuming you're confident the top of the plywood won't won't bow any further...

Bar top epoxy. Flood coat about 1/4". It's self leveling and I believe what BeanAnimal used on his in-wall build. I'm hoping I can avoid it on mine, but if need be, that's my plan.

Bump, set, spike...done.


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Old 05/08/2011, 07:26 AM   #184
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Assuming you're confident the top of the plywood won't won't bow any further...

Bar top epoxy. Flood coat about 1/4". It's self leveling and I believe what BeanAnimal used on his in-wall build. I'm hoping I can avoid it on mine, but if need be, that's my plan.

Bump, set, spike...done.
I think putting the vertical upright in will help any further bowing. The bar top epoxy sounds like a good idea - very fluid liquid easier than dry mix leveling compound. Still means pulling the tank off the stand which I was hoping to avoid.


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Old 05/08/2011, 07:14 PM   #185
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Update:

We were over at our cottage this weekend doing spring cleaning and opening it up for the summer. While we were gone, the granite guys installed the countertops!!!












We are really happy with the way it turned out.

Now back to the issues with my stand - been bothering me all weekend so .....

I jacked up the stand





And installed a 2x6





The gap is gone!!!! .... well mostly. There is still a Very small gap in the middle but it looks sooooo much better.

But ... it caused the corner to come off the leg







you can see where I shimmed it but I plan to put new 2x6s up against the legs at the new height to carry the weight. I ran out of wood and out of time tonight. I'll be travelling most of the week for work so may not get back to it until next weekend but feeling better about it for sure.

Appreciate any opinions or thoughts. And thanks for all the help and suggestions!!!!


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Old 05/08/2011, 08:19 PM   #186
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Much better. I think that was by far the quickest/best way to handle that problem. The counter looks great!


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Old 05/08/2011, 08:23 PM   #187
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Quote:
Originally Posted by launchnukes View Post
Much better. I think that was by far the quickest/best way to handle that problem. The counter looks great!
+1 regarding the stand and the granite looks fantastic!


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Old 05/08/2011, 08:46 PM   #188
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nice job sir. I think if it was me I would send the carpenter a link to this thread telling him to have a look at all the praise.
Granite looks very nice!


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Old 05/08/2011, 09:00 PM   #189
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Originally Posted by launchnukes View Post
Much better. I think that was by far the quickest/best way to handle that problem. The counter looks great!
I agree, I just couldn't bring myself to think of pulling the tank off the stand!! I hope this works. I will definitely rebrace the corner. Only drawback is not having full sump access but I would rather have that than a failed seam!!


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Old 05/08/2011, 09:03 PM   #190
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+1 regarding the stand and the granite looks fantastic!
Thanks Mike. I know you have had your share of trials with your tank but after reading your thread I have been extra cautious on the stand and caulked the insides of my overflows. I appreciate your sharing your experience ... It has helped me a ton. BTW - your tank is looking great! And your counter tops look great too - yet another inspiration for my tank!!!


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Old 05/08/2011, 09:06 PM   #191
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nice job sir. I think if it was me I would send the carpenter a link to this thread telling him to have a look at all the praise.
Granite looks very nice!
Thanks D3hree - how's the build comin? Did you swap out for a starphire?


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Old 05/09/2011, 07:23 AM   #192
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Thanks D3hree - how's the build comin? Did you swap out for a starphire?
I was always going to use starphire, although not called that here. I will be using 3x12mm sheets of low iron white glass laminated together for 36mm thick glass.

I must admit I drove home last night thinking if there was a way to accomodate a bar/counter top in my build!

There are some stunning builds on here recently, yours included, that have used bar/counter tops and stools infront of the tank and they all look superb. Possibly more than that is the "lifestyle" that these builds are selling. The idea of you and your fellow reefers relaxing with a coffee sat on a comfy stool with your nose pressed against the glass of your reef tank is extremely appealing.

As I said before, great work sir.


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Old 05/09/2011, 11:00 AM   #193
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I had a similiar issue with my 7ft 210 gallon, I ended up shimming under the stand between the floor and stand. I have also heard that tanks with the plastic trim are made to flex a bit, I am not sure as to how much maybe just an 1/8" or so. My tank did fine though and is still good 2 years later.






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Old 05/09/2011, 06:45 PM   #194
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Originally Posted by d3hree View Post
I was always going to use starphire, although not called that here. I will be using 3x12mm sheets of low iron white glass laminated together for 36mm thick glass.

I must admit I drove home last night thinking if there was a way to accomodate a bar/counter top in my build!

There are some stunning builds on here recently, yours included, that have used bar/counter tops and stools infront of the tank and they all look superb. Possibly more than that is the "lifestyle" that these builds are selling. The idea of you and your fellow reefers relaxing with a coffee sat on a comfy stool with your nose pressed against the glass of your reef tank is extremely appealing.

As I said before, great work sir.

Thanks again, I haven't picked out the bar stools yet but plan to have several there for people to sit and view the tank. Also will be a good spot for people playing pool to gather (pool table will be in front of tank). I am pleased with how well it has come together so far but have a looong way to go!!!!


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Old 05/09/2011, 06:48 PM   #195
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I had a similiar issue with my 7ft 210 gallon, I ended up shimming under the stand between the floor and stand. I have also heard that tanks with the plastic trim are made to flex a bit, I am not sure as to how much maybe just an 1/8" or so. My tank did fine though and is still good 2 years later.




Glad to hear you haven't had any problems. I am hoping this solves the issue for me. I do expect some "give" with the plastic frame but feel much better about how much I need now vs. how much i would have needed before the fix. Also, while I would have said the tank looked level before, it was lightly off and now looks spot on. Still want to "shore up" the corner that I have shimmed but think I can do that with no problem.


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Old 05/09/2011, 06:51 PM   #196
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I like your fix, I think its a great idea.


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Old 05/09/2011, 07:05 PM   #197
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I like your fix, I think its a great idea.

Thanks, BTW love the avatar .... brings me back to my old NES system days!!


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Old 05/09/2011, 07:22 PM   #198
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Thanks, Gotta love Ren and Stimpy it's a classic as well. I will be watching your build I plan on doing the DD 300 as my next tank.


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Old 05/19/2011, 06:05 PM   #199
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Quick Update:

Finish trim painted and finished. Happy with the way it works. Still need to put magnets on the inside of top panel to secure it better.





Also plumber was here today and got the utility tub installed





And the electrician was here yesterday. Installed 2 dedicated 20 amp lines.





Still couple weeks away from basement being finished but progressing well.

Next big step is to get the sump ordered. Went to my LFS last night to check into ordering thru them. They said it would take 6-8 weeks to get a custom sump . Not what I was hoping to hear.

Did some searching online but came up empty on sources near Detroit to get custom sump in shorter timeframe.

Don't know if anyone has suggestions?


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Old 05/19/2011, 07:51 PM   #200
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6-8 weeks?...wow that is some wait.
Over here LFS sell standard tanks and have them in stock. For example my first sump was an "of the shelf" standard tank 4ft long and i went to a glaziers and had the baffles cut to size and siliconed them in myself...is that a possibility for you?

your tank looks exceptionally nice with the white trim and the granite ledge.

What are your thoughts on the back and sides?...will you paint them?...or vinyl?..or maybe a temporary backing that can be removed? A reefing mate of mine uses black foam board on the back of his in wall build. It is attached with velcro tabs and can be removed from behind to allow him to see in from the back. I always thought it was a great idea.


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