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Old 03/20/2011, 09:59 PM   #1
Sk8r
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What treats what disease? The short course.

DO NOT use any of these treatments in your display tank: use a hospital tank or converted qt. Exception: water quality correction and dietary correction.
Caution: Do not use copper on angels, lions, and delicate fishes. Do not assume copper is ok with a delicate species: doublecheck by googling [species name copper treatment cupramine] on the web. Late note: johnsoni wrasse did not survive copper treatment. Add wrasses to maybe-not list.

Treatments for parasites on fish come in two sorts: hyposalinity and copper. There is also Prazipro, or Praziquantel, a med also used to kill redbug on corals, and which to a certain extent claims to be reefsafe: do not use without reading the reviews and judging applicability. And there is Crypto-Pro, a formulation of quinine sulphate that is supposed to be effective against a resistent form of ich: there seem to be some bad reactions, and some water quality issues, plus depression of appetite. First, Do not guess about these meds: check species recommendations, measure exactly [another reason for treating in a bare glass tank] and read instructions precisely. Do not combine treatments. More is not better. Certain species cannot take copper, in particular. Some do not do well with quinine sulphate. With species that must have a cycled qt, you can use hypo, but not copper, and I would definitely choose hypo over meds unless you have a clear reason for another choice.
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Ich: symptom: saltlike grains on body, or rapid breathing, 'flashing' or rapid scratching passes against rock or sand: ie, the fish is itching. Treatable by hypo or copper. Caution: do not use copper with angels and lions, or fish with low appetite. Read up on ich life cycle sticky. With copper, appetite supression is common; also use precise dose and time. With hypo absolute control of salinity and time. Getting ich out of your tank: inverts and corals may stay in tank: leave tank fishless for 8 weeks. Cleaner shrimp are often touted as removing this parasite: they don't: the parasite is embedded under the skin.
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Flukes: attack gills: fish lethargic, breathing impaired. Hypo or copper. Caution: do not use copper with angels and lions, or fish with low appetite. With copper, appetite supression is common; also use precise dose and time. With hypo absolute control of salinity and time is essential. An ATO in the tank helps immensely and will make it absolute, otherwise draw 'fill line' with tape and top off several times daily. Getting flukes out of your tank: inverts and corals may stay in tank: leave tank fishless for 8 weeks.
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Brooklynosis: a parasitic infestation more seen in clowns than other species: if a pale body film, likely; other symptoms lethargy, spitting out food, difficulty breathing: formalin dip: Formalin added at a dosage of 1000 ppm for some 15 minutes. Revive brand med added to water: contains acriflavine---for 14 days. DO not treat in main tank.
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hexamita: hole in head disease: white, stringy poop, lethargy, ultimately lesions on head or flank of fish, particularly in angels and tangs. This is a parasitic disease, and responds to Metronidazole, sold as Fish Zole, etc, either food soaked in same; or if fish is not eating, dispersed in the water. The med is very prone to cause damage, so do not overdose. It is a med that will treat both a bacterial infection AND kill parasites. But it is very hard on the fish.
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Bacterial infection: fin rot, cloudy eye, popeye, general redness of areas, apparent lesions [raw spots], or internal swelling: scales standing on end indicating fluid retention. Bacteria come in gram-negative and gram-positive strains; a broad spectrum antibiotic is formulated to cover both eventualities, and some also handle fungus. This is fortunate, because fungus can look like a bacterial infection. In the case of popeye, it is symptomatic of an internal infection with head swelling. The eye will not recover sight.
Understand some of these meds may cause liver or kidney damage particularly if overdosed.
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Fungal infection: usually cottony appearance in patches, often around mouth injury. Look for an antibiotic that handles fungal infections as well as bacterial. Telling the difference is not easy.
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HLLE [head and lateral line erosion disease, etc: tangs, particularly] dietary, possible implication of carbon use. Feed Selcon or equivalent and be sure fish gets green food.

WHAT KIND OF BACTERIUM AM I DEALING WITH?---
Fast primer on bacteria: they come in two types, gram negative and gram positive. Some antibiotics kill gram negative types, some kill gram positive types, and some [broad-spectrum antibiotics] kill BOTH.

"Your beneficial sandbed bacteria are gram negative. Cyanobacteria is gram negative. Erythromycin [ChemiClean Red Slime Remover; and Maracyn] manage to kill off cyano without killing your whole tank. But following the instructions is critical. Having a good skimmer to take the sudden dose of biomass is critical. You can still get a heavy dieoff of unwanted bacteria, that will take out your tank from sheer biomass if you have a weak skimmer.

"What sort of bacteria is, say, fin rot? Gram negative---like your sandbed. Anything that kills it will damage your sandbed. Don't, as a rule, put any antibiotic [from Greek: anti: against; bios--life] meaning bacteria killer---into your display tank.


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Salinity 1.024-6; alkalinity 8.3-9.3 on KH scale; calcium 420; magnesium 1300, temp 78-80, nitrate .2. Ammonia 0. No filters: lps tank. Alk and cal won't rise if mg is low.

Current Tank Info: 105g AquaVim wedge lps reef: 3 firefish, yellowhead jawfish, yellow watchman, 3 chromis, tailspot/starry blennies, pink margin fairy wrasse, mandarin, kalk, radion pro, gyre, Eshopps s-200 skimmer, basement sump.

Last edited by Sk8r; 04/10/2011 at 11:55 AM.
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Old 03/20/2011, 10:04 PM   #2
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Trying to establish an easy reference with appropriate cautions. If anybody has any good pix of these conditions, or treatment regimens for diseases I haven't mentioned, please chime in. Factual correction and additional info is welcome. Imho we need a place where people in trouble can go and get one helpful and coherent set of directions, from the best info we can put together on this forum.


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Salinity 1.024-6; alkalinity 8.3-9.3 on KH scale; calcium 420; magnesium 1300, temp 78-80, nitrate .2. Ammonia 0. No filters: lps tank. Alk and cal won't rise if mg is low.

Current Tank Info: 105g AquaVim wedge lps reef: 3 firefish, yellowhead jawfish, yellow watchman, 3 chromis, tailspot/starry blennies, pink margin fairy wrasse, mandarin, kalk, radion pro, gyre, Eshopps s-200 skimmer, basement sump.
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Old 03/24/2011, 11:52 AM   #3
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A link to a thread involving 'black ich' on a tang, with good pictures, including closeup, additional link, and treatment course. http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1996184


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Salinity 1.024-6; alkalinity 8.3-9.3 on KH scale; calcium 420; magnesium 1300, temp 78-80, nitrate .2. Ammonia 0. No filters: lps tank. Alk and cal won't rise if mg is low.

Current Tank Info: 105g AquaVim wedge lps reef: 3 firefish, yellowhead jawfish, yellow watchman, 3 chromis, tailspot/starry blennies, pink margin fairy wrasse, mandarin, kalk, radion pro, gyre, Eshopps s-200 skimmer, basement sump.
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Old 03/25/2011, 05:47 PM   #4
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Lymphocystis, with photos. Resembles ich, but is less uniform, less like salt grains: This one is still under discussion as to WHETHER this is ich or lymphocytis, which is how very much alike they can look. Bill thinks the behavior, coming and going, is more ich---though the appearance in the somewhat blurred photo is more like lympho. Since the treatment for lympho is to feed well and wait for to stop, but the prognosis is good---but the prognosis for ich is the more serious, the reasoning is to follow the more aggressive course and treat it as if it is ich...

you can see how you have to think your way through these situations...

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh....php?t=1996950


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Sk8r

Salinity 1.024-6; alkalinity 8.3-9.3 on KH scale; calcium 420; magnesium 1300, temp 78-80, nitrate .2. Ammonia 0. No filters: lps tank. Alk and cal won't rise if mg is low.

Current Tank Info: 105g AquaVim wedge lps reef: 3 firefish, yellowhead jawfish, yellow watchman, 3 chromis, tailspot/starry blennies, pink margin fairy wrasse, mandarin, kalk, radion pro, gyre, Eshopps s-200 skimmer, basement sump.

Last edited by Sk8r; 03/25/2011 at 10:55 PM.
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Old 04/22/2011, 04:22 PM   #5
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Just so I learn a lesson moving forward....I recently purchased 3 Pyramid Butterflies....the seller indicated they were eating mysis. When I got them home I drip acclimated them for over 3 hours before placing them in a 30 gal QT. They never ate for me. One developed pop eye immediately, (I think it was popeye), another developed what appeared to be white rice grains around the head and in one eye. The one with pop eye died within 2 days. The one with white spots died in about a week. The last one developed pop eye and remained alive for about 13 days before succumbing. The 2 with pop eye both were found with the infected eye missing. I have no crabs or snails in this QT tank and the fish was not left, without being checked on, for more than an a 7 hour period. I did try all different types of food from Sally's butterfly cubes to mysis, brine, bloodworms, fresh mussels and clams but nothing interested them. I also treated the QT with prazipro on day 7. The seller did have a 14 day guarantee but it was a painful experience. I am not sure if this was fluke disease or not. From posts I have read it appears that if you don't treat with prazipro within the 1st 4 days it is a lost cause. I am not sure why the eyes were missing....I am assuming that it was consumed by the infection/disease. I do have some rock in the QT tank and a bristetail file fish...which seems unaffected and is eating. Moving forward.....I treated this QT by doing a massive water change and then hitting it again with the prazipro. I am now running carbon. I have some live rock in this tank...are you saying that I would need to leave this tank fallow for 8 wks? Can fluke lay eggs in the rock or only in a host? Would the bristletail be a carrier? I read that butterflies are more apt to get fluke than other fish. I want to use this tank within the next few weeks for new fish QT but don't want to go through this again......I could start with all new water but then I would need to remove all the rock and possibly the bristetail......


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Old 04/27/2011, 06:07 PM   #6
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Does anyone know of any books that cover the numerous diseases that reef fish are susceptible to? There are a large number of differing opinions on cures and solutions to these issues, and I would love to find a comprehensive manual that includes pictures if possible. Thanks Rick


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Old 04/27/2011, 06:15 PM   #7
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Your best chance is what I did, which I google specific diseases and go for the sites with .edu or the like as an extension. Anyone with a financial interest in an old-line cure is likely to tell you how to use it properly, which is good. Anyone that tells you they have a secret miracle cure that is no work at all and won't disturb your tank if you just order this bottle for 50.00 is beyond suspect.


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Salinity 1.024-6; alkalinity 8.3-9.3 on KH scale; calcium 420; magnesium 1300, temp 78-80, nitrate .2. Ammonia 0. No filters: lps tank. Alk and cal won't rise if mg is low.

Current Tank Info: 105g AquaVim wedge lps reef: 3 firefish, yellowhead jawfish, yellow watchman, 3 chromis, tailspot/starry blennies, pink margin fairy wrasse, mandarin, kalk, radion pro, gyre, Eshopps s-200 skimmer, basement sump.
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Old 04/28/2011, 07:10 AM   #8
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No responses to my questions?


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Old 09/10/2011, 03:38 PM   #9
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Does anyone know of any books that cover the numerous diseases that reef fish are susceptible to? There are a large number of differing opinions on cures and solutions to these issues, and I would love to find a comprehensive manual that includes pictures if possible. Thanks Rick
My two favourite references are "The Marine Fish Health & Feeding Handbook" by Goemans and Ichinotsubo and "The Manual of Fish Health" by Andrews, Excell and Carrington.


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Old 10/30/2011, 06:11 PM   #10
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Just so I learn a lesson moving forward....I recently purchased 3 Pyramid Butterflies....the seller indicated they were eating mysis. When I got them home I drip acclimated them for over 3 hours before placing them in a 30 gal QT. They never ate for me. One developed pop eye immediately, (I think it was popeye), another developed what appeared to be white rice grains around the head and in one eye. The one with pop eye died within 2 days. The one with white spots died in about a week. The last one developed pop eye and remained alive for about 13 days before succumbing. The 2 with pop eye both were found with the infected eye missing. I have no crabs or snails in this QT tank and the fish was not left, without being checked on, for more than an a 7 hour period. I did try all different types of food from Sally's butterfly cubes to mysis, brine, bloodworms, fresh mussels and clams but nothing interested them. I also treated the QT with prazipro on day 7. The seller did have a 14 day guarantee but it was a painful experience. I am not sure if this was fluke disease or not. From posts I have read it appears that if you don't treat with prazipro within the 1st 4 days it is a lost cause. I am not sure why the eyes were missing....I am assuming that it was consumed by the infection/disease. I do have some rock in the QT tank and a bristetail file fish...which seems unaffected and is eating. Moving forward.....I treated this QT by doing a massive water change and then hitting it again with the prazipro. I am now running carbon. I have some live rock in this tank...are you saying that I would need to leave this tank fallow for 8 wks? Can fluke lay eggs in the rock or only in a host? Would the bristletail be a carrier? I read that butterflies are more apt to get fluke than other fish. I want to use this tank within the next few weeks for new fish QT but don't want to go through this again......I could start with all new water but then I would need to remove all the rock and possibly the bristetail......
I am sorry this happened. Nothing worse than losing an animal. Unfortunately, you are almost describing a crustacean parasite. Did you inspect the fish after death and see anything that looked like a crustacean on it? Not too much is rice size. Although popeye can be caused by a few different things. It is considered a symptom not a disease. Usually a bacterial infection or trauma (injury), at times parasites.

Without confirmation on the cause of death, I would consider it safer to empty QT, fill with freshwater for at minimum 24hours. Drain and re-fill with saltwater. If you are treating in the QT tank, it is better to not have porous rock or any inverts. Can the bristletail go into the display?


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Old 10/30/2011, 06:13 PM   #11
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My two favourite references are "The Marine Fish Health & Feeding Handbook" by Goemans and Ichinotsubo and "The Manual of Fish Health" by Andrews, Excell and Carrington.
Love the Fish Health and Feeding Handbook. The other I recommend, is a bit to scientific for most. It is the Fish Disease: Diagnosis and Treatment by Dr. Edward J Noga.


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Old 10/31/2011, 09:06 AM   #12
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I read recenlty that a 10 minute fresh water dip was excellent for ridding flukes, yet maybe I missed where you discussed this.

Nice summary btw


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Old 01/03/2012, 11:38 AM   #13
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Does anyone know of any books that cover the numerous diseases that reef fish are susceptible to? There are a large number of differing opinions on cures and solutions to these issues, and I would love to find a comprehensive manual that includes pictures if possible. Thanks Rick
A little late for a response but maybe you will get this. The best book that I use is Fish Disease: Diagnosis and Treatment by Edward J. Noga. This is the one I used in my undergrad work as well as my wife's vet school.


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Old 04/05/2012, 08:22 PM   #14
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i have some cottony white things on the dorsal/mouth and fins of my wrasse, wondering if this is fungus or is it lympho?


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Old 04/26/2012, 11:23 PM   #15
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A little late for a response but maybe you will get this. The best book that I use is Fish Disease: Diagnosis and Treatment by Edward J. Noga. This is the one I used in my undergrad work as well as my wife's vet school.
Wow, that book is not cheap


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Old 05/11/2012, 10:05 AM   #16
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really informative stuff sk8r. quick newbie question. do the fish regrow the fin rot.


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Old 08/01/2012, 10:59 PM   #17
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Unhappy Help!!!!!

someone plz help me......I just purchased a yellow tang on yesterday....i noticed today one of his eyes are puffy and white (cloudy like)...the other eye is normal.....I also noticed later tonight both sides of the tang has a white line going donw the side of its body. I really new at this so plz help me......I have a 30 gallon tank about a month old.....i purchased 1 blue damsel and 1 blk/wht damsel about two weeks ago....the tank has cycled.....I now have a clean-up crew due to the algae and 1 small polyp coral...live sand and rock........Please let me know what i need to do the save my tang...if that's possible.....

thanks

Donna


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Old 08/12/2012, 01:31 PM   #18
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Metronidazole........ It is a med that will treat both a bacterial infection AND kill parasites. But it is very hard on the fish.
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What are the side effects of metro?


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Old 08/12/2012, 02:14 PM   #19
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What are the side effects of metro?
Liver damage.


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Old 08/12/2012, 10:10 PM   #20
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deesfish, Please read more and buy live stock slower - seeing as a yellow tang needs a 5 to 6 foot long tank minimum to swim in it has no chance of a healthy life in your 30 gal.

How close did you look at this fish before you purchased it? Talk to where you purchased it and if they can't help I'd go elsewhere, actually if they sold you this tang knowing you were going to put it in a 30 gal tank you should still go else where to purchase your supplies etc.

Your two damsels are going to get big and mean.

The white lines down it's sides are a sensory organ - normal. Again, try reading about what your thinking of buying before you buy.

My newest tank is 90 gal with a 30 gal sump, a good skimmer and I've had salt water tanks for over 20 years. I wouldn't have purchased your tang for my tank (too small) and wouldn't think of adding that many fish in my new tank if it was only a month old - I may get that many over the first 6 to 8 months.

Good luck & sorry about the scolding but I'm frustrated as i just noticed my 8 year old clown has the same eye condition as yours and I don't know what to do about it... and getting him out of the tank would probably do more damage/stress than he can handle.


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Old 08/16/2012, 11:05 AM   #21
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I have a 7 year old purple tang nthat has suddenly stopped eating. I have tried several different foods including live brine but to no avail. Can someone tell me what might be wrong.


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Old 10/17/2012, 02:25 PM   #22
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I'd love to see a write up on Marine velvet.

Thanks


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Old 10/31/2012, 08:11 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deesfish View Post
someone plz help me......I just purchased a yellow tang on yesterday....i noticed today one of his eyes are puffy and white (cloudy like)...the other eye is normal.....I also noticed later tonight both sides of the tang has a white line going donw the side of its body. I really new at this so plz help me......I have a 30 gallon tank about a month old.....i purchased 1 blue damsel and 1 blk/wht damsel about two weeks ago....the tank has cycled.....I now have a clean-up crew due to the algae and 1 small polyp coral...live sand and rock........Please let me know what i need to do the save my tang...if that's possible.....

thanks

Donna
Set up a hospital tank that you can treat with medications. Bare bottom tank highly recommended. The the white lines sound like HLLE but not sure because you don't have pictures. Feed frozen foods dosed in vitamins.... Brine and mysis soaked in garlic, selcon, and vita chem this will help with HLLE and also the immune system of the fish. I would do that and with a hospital tank you can treat with medications, otherwise I'm afraid your tang is a goner. Just a FYI less is more when it comes to saltwater for a 30g tank 2 small fish that don't get over 3 inches would be the max you should have. The smallest of tangs should be in a 6ft long 100g minimum tank


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Old 11/04/2012, 06:54 AM   #24
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I have 2 Yellow tangs that I just noticed their fins and tails are frayed. Could this be fin rot or could my Blue Devil Damsel be getting nippy with them. They have all been together for about 6 months now with no problems. Help


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Old 11/19/2012, 12:57 PM   #25
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Deceased Clown

I have a mystery that I just can't figure out. I have a well established tank and my parameters are spot on. I have an existing percula in the tank and decided I would like to pair it up so I added another clown. The clown acclimated and seemed healthy for a couple of weeks then it became lethargic and began trailing a long string of white feces. A day later the clown was not eating and sluggish but its respiratory rate seem okay. I decided to wait another day before I moved it to the hosp tank. The next day the fish was back to normal, eating and swimming around. About two weeks later the same thing occurred only this time the fish disappeared on the third day. I did notice that the fish had what looked like a nick or sore spot under its gills. This same thing happened again. Only this time the estasblished clown died and the new clown survived. When I bought my rock I trapped out 6 mantis shrimp but I have not noticed any signs of them since. I have noticed a couple of fuzzy small crabs about the size of a nickel that seem to come out at night. My gobie and tang are fine. Is it possble that something is wounding the fish and they are dieing from stress and infection ?


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