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Old 12/15/2012, 03:23 AM   #26
ReeferGil
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Anyone have a good formalin brand to purchase? I've read you should have 37-40% formaldahyde to treat sick fish, any thoughts? Thanks.


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Old 12/23/2012, 12:07 PM   #27
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When do you use tetracycline or bifuran? They are both bacterial treatments but is one better then another for any certian symptoms?


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Old 12/26/2012, 08:23 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by chinookgirl View Post
I have 2 Yellow tangs that I just noticed their fins and tails are frayed. Could this be fin rot or could my Blue Devil Damsel be getting nippy with them. They have all been together for about 6 months now with no problems. Help
Usually it is because there are only 2.


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Old 12/28/2012, 12:15 AM   #29
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I recently saw this product Dr. Gs Anti-bacterial frozen food and Anti-parastic frozen food at a local fish store around orlando. Has anyone tried these foods and had any luck, luckly i dont need it but i was thinking as a preventative measure to mix a little of each in with my regular food like 2x a week.


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Old 12/28/2012, 07:49 AM   #30
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Originally Posted by ReefTime12 View Post
I recently saw this product Dr. Gs Anti-bacterial frozen food and Anti-parastic frozen food at a local fish store around orlando. Has anyone tried these foods and had any luck, luckly i dont need it but i was thinking as a preventative measure to mix a little of each in with my regular food like 2x a week.
I guess if you suspect your fish aren't 100% healthy .... why not.


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Old 01/19/2013, 12:20 PM   #31
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I have a mystery that I just can't figure out. I have a well established tank and my parameters are spot on. I have an existing percula in the tank and decided I would like to pair it up so I added another clown. The clown acclimated and seemed healthy for a couple of weeks then it became lethargic and began trailing a long string of white feces. A day later the clown was not eating and sluggish but its respiratory rate seem okay. I decided to wait another day before I moved it to the hosp tank. The next day the fish was back to normal, eating and swimming around. About two weeks later the same thing occurred only this time the fish disappeared on the third day. I did notice that the fish had what looked like a nick or sore spot under its gills. This same thing happened again. Only this time the estasblished clown died and the new clown survived. When I bought my rock I trapped out 6 mantis shrimp but I have not noticed any signs of them since. I have noticed a couple of fuzzy small crabs about the size of a nickel that seem to come out at night. My gobie and tang are fine. Is it possble that something is wounding the fish and they are dieing from stress and infection ?
not sure about those crabs hurting fish. but they sound like one i had hitchhike in on some rock. it was fine for the longest time, then started decimating my corals, i mean clearing out a frag plug a night. finally caught him in the act and removed him after having to break down all the rock. so id start trying to trap them now


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Old 02/04/2013, 08:32 AM   #32
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Unhappy Chromis semms to be rottening, PLEASE HELP!!!

I have a nuvo 8 tank that it's being cycling for about 2 weeks. My params are Amonia: less than .25 ppm (API color closer to yellow (0) than green(.25)). Nitrites:0, Nitrates: 20. Ph: 7.8 Salinity: 1.025, Temp: 79.

My wife has been nagging that she wanted to see some fish. My LFS so called "expert" suggested in front of my wife that I could already place a few bule/green chromis in my tank. Against my better judgement I decided to purchase 3 very small chromis (less than 1"). One did not acclimated well, then the 2nd died on day 2 and the third one looks like this....check pics. I know I should have not place them yet in my tanks but I want to learn from my mistake. Please check the pics and let me know what is going on with the fish. Should I sacrifice him so it doesn't suffer or can I help him recover? Please HELP!


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Old 02/24/2013, 12:40 PM   #33
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I have a percula clown for the last 9 years I put another clown in the tank for a couple of hours and then switched him out that fish died the next day. My clown is now dull in color not eating and breathing fast, he is now swimming right in front of the return I will post a video when my son wakes up, non of the other fish at this time seem infected.
Could this be flukes or something else?


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Old 06/20/2013, 03:03 PM   #34
rayr18
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Uronema

I think a disease you left is Uronema....My Kole Tang had Uronema marinum, a ciliate parasite similar to Brooklynella. I treated with Flagyl (Metronidazole) and it cleared it right up. I did this in a quarantine tank.


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Old 07/26/2013, 10:22 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ReefTime12 View Post
I recently saw this product Dr. Gs Anti-bacterial frozen food and Anti-parastic frozen food at a local fish store around orlando. Has anyone tried these foods and had any luck, luckly i dont need it but i was thinking as a preventative measure to mix a little of each in with my regular food like 2x a week.
New to this forum but not the hobby, did you try this food? If so what dis you think?

Btw, great write up!


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Old 08/21/2013, 07:26 PM   #36
stevensy
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well, you can actually do anything just to prevent the infection.


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Old 09/02/2013, 03:20 PM   #37
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Bad disease

I have 2 disease issues that i'm battling in a 125 g. display with really good chemistry and with 5 fish, the largest being a 4" Purple tang:

1) I have lost 3 swallowtail angels in 4 weeks. I bought a pair that looked to be in perfect health. First fish developed horribly severe pop eye right after getting her home. Despite quarantine and multiple antibiotic courses, she died. Bought a replacement from DD because I thought that the popeye in the first fish may have been from tauma related to the bagging. Then my second fish developed what I thought was lymphcystis. Appeared to be improving but fish died. The third fish from DD then developed ich and died within days. What an absolute total bummer both for the fish, my ego, and my wallet!

Last year, my display tank developed ich (about 8 months ago0 and all my fish perished despite quarantine and copper. I left the tank fallow for 3 full months. Ich still seems to be present even though all 5 fish currently in tank are fine, or ich is suppressed within them.

If a 3 month fallow period did not rid tank of ich, what will? I am petrified to get any more fish.


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Old 09/05/2013, 07:09 AM   #38
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Please forgive my stupidness. I am a newbie to the fish world. I need help!!!! Bought an established tank(3 +years) from someone with live rock and coral. Previous owner gave me ANti-Ich meds, AmQuel Plus, and Garlic. About a week ago purchased 2 farm raised clownfish and 2 damsel, they are all doing great. This weekend bought a yellow tang, two days later it died. On Monday bought a blue tang put in a separate bare tank (which I also just bought)now it has white spots. I know from reading that it has ich, has spots, rapid breathing, color loss, no appetite. I need help on what to do. I'm reading all these post and have no clue what some of the terminology means. Can someone please explain what I need to do in (DUMMIES) terms so that I can try to save my tang? Any advise would be greatly appreciated.


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Old 03/03/2014, 07:27 PM   #39
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I have a Coral Beauty who I have had for about 3 days now and I just noticed he is breathing very heavily. He is very active and swims around grazing on algae. All of my other fish are peaceful (2 cardinals, 1 clown goby, 1 lawnmower blenny) but he just seems (to me) to be breathing rather quickly for an entirely healthy fish. It is a 20 gallon tank that has been set up for just over two months now. I completely cycled it before adding any fish via a decaying matter method, so it has been cycled for about two months now as well. It has a Fluval 405 Canister Filter on it with ceramic rings, carbon, and lots of filter floss. I work at an LFS and I know angels can be rather sensitive so I just want to be sure he isn't going to drop dead on me one night. He has really made my aquarium a sight to behold with his presence.


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Old 03/06/2014, 12:20 AM   #40
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I'm curious why you don't suggest Praziquantel for fluke treatment, since that is what it is most commonly used for.


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Old 02/01/2015, 01:47 AM   #41
emcmilla
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This thread discussing flukes and ich has some good pics of flukes on a fish and in the bottom of a container after a FW dip. (Excellent pictures supplied Newsmyrna80)

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh....php?t=2476170


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Old 03/07/2015, 06:40 PM   #42
clearwaters
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Would Seachem Metroplex be a good remedy for a pretty bad case of Ich for multiple fish? The liver damage scares me, but I am a bit unsure how to proceed. Will this harm soft corals? I have a Foxface, Scopas, and Sailfin all exibiting the disease and are in major distress. Scopas not eating. Chromas look good, Wrasse showed signs but has recovered, hawkfish looks good, 1 clown died and 3 fighting it off, lawnmower died, scooter died, cardinal died, Chevron died. Pretty big disaster. The vendor says this can be added directly to the tank. Additionally, I have a lot of zoas and other soft corals. This all started after returning from vacation and the caretaker overfeeding (Nitrates through the roof). Still working on getting them down below 20ppm. (They were 60+ and I never experienced anything over 5 before) No spikes in Nitrites or Ammonia. Corals healthy. 2 Rose Anemones hanging on, 2 Oysters alive, 1 clam alive. I have done a 10, 20, and 30 gallon change in the past 2 weeks.. Currently doing 3 gallon water changes every other day at 1.024, 77 degrees. Also adding garlic to food and tank (2 drops).

In any event, opinions and recommendations are very welcome. Thank you.


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Old 03/08/2015, 09:04 PM   #43
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Originally Posted by clearwaters View Post
Would Seachem Metroplex be a good remedy for a pretty bad case of Ich for multiple fish? The liver damage scares me, but I am a bit unsure how to proceed. Will this harm soft corals? I have a Foxface, Scopas, and Sailfin all exibiting the disease and are in major distress. Scopas not eating. Chromas look good, Wrasse showed signs but has recovered, hawkfish looks good, 1 clown died and 3 fighting it off, lawnmower died, scooter died, cardinal died, Chevron died. Pretty big disaster. The vendor says this can be added directly to the tank. Additionally, I have a lot of zoas and other soft corals. This all started after returning from vacation and the caretaker overfeeding (Nitrates through the roof). Still working on getting them down below 20ppm. (They were 60+ and I never experienced anything over 5 before) No spikes in Nitrites or Ammonia. Corals healthy. 2 Rose Anemones hanging on, 2 Oysters alive, 1 clam alive. I have done a 10, 20, and 30 gallon change in the past 2 weeks.. Currently doing 3 gallon water changes every other day at 1.024, 77 degrees. Also adding garlic to food and tank (2 drops).

In any event, opinions and recommendations are very welcome. Thank you.
Metroplex is metronidazole, which is not an effective treatment for Cryptocaryon. Not sure why Seachem advertises it as such. Furthermore, I would not dose metro into the DT as it will destroy the biofilter.

Recommended treatments for Cryptocaryon are TTM, copper, chloroquine phosphate or hyposalinity. I would recommend reading the other stickies in this forum for additional details on treatment.


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Old 03/25/2015, 10:52 PM   #44
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I am in the process of dealing with vibrio in one of my fish and just finished a round of kanamycin for 5 days. I took the fish to my LFS and they pulled off scales to confirm it wasn't a parasite. From all the research I've been doing, vibrio actually kills pretty fast. My fish though has been good for about two weeks until right now, when he is having trouble breathing and all of a sudden stopped eating. It ate this morning and was active. Now it's struggling. I'm pretty sure I'm going to lose this fish (green chromis). I have a couple questions about how to proceed. What process should I go through to sterilize this tank before adding anything else? The only other occupant is a red leg hermit crab who seems to be fine. The LFS said to do a major water change once done with the antibiotics, so that is already planned and will put charcoal back into the filter to neutrize any left over antibiotic. Fairly new to this hobby, but I have done quite a bit of research.
Tank stats: 20g, 1.026sg, no special lighting (no corals or macro), LFS tested chems and said they were in range, temp 79, Fluval U20 filter, live sand and crushed coral.


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Old 04/06/2015, 07:42 PM   #45
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Just so I learn a lesson moving forward....I recently purchased 3 Pyramid Butterflies....the seller indicated they were eating mysis. When I got them home I drip acclimated them for over 3 hours before placing them in a 30 gal QT. They never ate for me. One developed pop eye immediately, (I think it was popeye), another developed what appeared to be white rice grains around the head and in one eye. The one with pop eye died within 2 days. The one with white spots died in about a week. The last one developed pop eye and remained alive for about 13 days before succumbing. The 2 with pop eye both were found with the infected eye missing. I have no crabs or snails in this QT tank and the fish was not left, without being checked on, for more than an a 7 hour period. I did try all different types of food from Sally's butterfly cubes to mysis, brine, bloodworms, fresh mussels and clams but nothing interested them. I also treated the QT with prazipro on day 7. The seller did have a 14 day guarantee but it was a painful experience. I am not sure if this was fluke disease or not. From posts I have read it appears that if you don't treat with prazipro within the 1st 4 days it is a lost cause. I am not sure why the eyes were missing....I am assuming that it was consumed by the infection/disease. I do have some rock in the QT tank and a bristetail file fish...which seems unaffected and is eating. Moving forward.....I treated this QT by doing a massive water change and then hitting it again with the prazipro. I am now running carbon. I have some live rock in this tank...are you saying that I would need to leave this tank fallow for 8 wks? Can fluke lay eggs in the rock or only in a host? Would the bristletail be a carrier? I read that butterflies are more apt to get fluke than other fish. I want to use this tank within the next few weeks for new fish QT but don't want to go through this again......I could start with all new water but then I would need to remove all the rock and possibly the bristetail......
Yikes- read the FAQ on missing eyes.
http://www.nationalfishpharm.com/Q&A/eye_disorders.html


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Old 04/22/2015, 11:08 PM   #46
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I know hypo salinity treats ich... Does it treat any other diseases?


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Old 05/08/2015, 04:48 PM   #47
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I know hypo salinity treats ich... Does it treat any other diseases?
Not effectively. Hyposalinity has no effect on marine velvet and possibly limited effect on Brooklynella. Best to follow recommended treatment protocols for those two diseases as they progress rapidly.


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Old 06/17/2015, 12:32 AM   #48
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Please help me out! I purchased three achilles tangs had them all in QT for three weeks with no problems at all. They were all eating great so I moved them to my display after a few days I noticed one of them had a wound of some sort on the bridge of his face between eyes and mouth I assumed he scraped it on the live rock now I am not so sure I lost one I left for a couple days and had someone tend to them when I returned one achilles had died and the other had a scrape too the orginal ones wound looked worse too need not sure what it is or what to do I'm assuming it's a type of bacterial infection


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Old 07/05/2015, 07:10 PM   #49
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Hi 220tang, it might be the hole in the head disease. Usually comes from lack of vitamins and algae in their food, and stress.
I'm having the same problem in my quarantine tank all my tangs have it, I've been feeding home made food with lots of algea, spirulina and vitamins but they don't seem to get better. Does anyone know what else to do to get rid of that?
Thanks


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Old 11/16/2016, 08:26 AM   #50
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I wish this sticky include pictures for each common diseases

It will be a perfect sticky


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