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Old 06/24/2011, 07:59 PM   #26
mykol
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sounds perfect, i wish that price tag were about $150 lower, but its the best i've seen so far, so it looks like i'll have to invest =/


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Old 06/25/2011, 12:01 PM   #27
bmco
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mordibv View Post
Not trrying to jack the thread ...
bmco .
Very ,very nice tank . It must have taken a lot of courage to go from MH to leds since you appear to be a die hard SPS fan . Yes , I know there is a lot of diversity in that tank of ur's
I am starting to wonder if having a more white to blue ratio works out better for the corals .
I saw 2 20 k fixtures (not orphek) on a LFS tank and it was way too blue for me . I found this odd since I am a fan of 20 k halides .
So how many months is it now ?
BTW since the growth rates are so good , when r u going to offer up a frag pack .Looks like u need to do some trimming . ...just kidding
A few more questions . Do you have any duplicate acro's in different areas of the tank and do they look different now ?
Thanks mordibv.

I don't like too much unnatural blue over my tank. Corals look fake to me, but a tint of blue\pink is nice to my eyes, more than this, my corals love the spectrum I have now. The colors are more vivid and natural than ever before.

I trim my corals on a weekly basis. some of my friends enjoy it. You are invited...

I do have duplicates in different locations and as you could see with MH or T5 lights before, they look a bit different in each location with LED too.


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Old 06/27/2011, 11:42 AM   #28
mykol
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So I've been reading where people talk about changing the intensity of the bulbs for different dur
ations through the day. Is this a necessity? Will I need to get a controller, or is this more for high end vitals and delicate systems?


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Old 06/27/2011, 03:01 PM   #29
scram42
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Changing the intensity of the lights is for our enjoyment only. It makes absolutely no difference to the corals, "high end" or not. A controller would be useless with the Orphek as it has it's own timer and there's no dimming option. The Orphek has the dawn/dusk blue lights (which are very cool) and daylights, each with their own timers. That's really all you need.


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30 Gal Reef. Skimmerless. HOB 'fuge. Orphek PR 156, MP10, SPS, LPS, RBTA, 2 Percs 2 Azure Damsels. and various inverts.

Current Tank Info: Staring over
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Old 06/27/2011, 03:06 PM   #30
mykol
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I can't wait to get a hold of one. Could someone post a pic of theirs, preferably mounted with the included hardware.


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Old 06/30/2011, 11:33 AM   #31
ti-christ
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Hello

I have a 180g tank with 6'x2'x2' and 2 feet depth. Currently, I have 3x 250W HQI Pheonix Bulb (14000k). I like the color and I have keeping mosty SPS and LPS. I also have some softies in dark area.

I am looking to change my lighting to LED because of high water temperature issue. So, I am looking to buy the Orphek Pr-156 but I dont know how much fixture I need and I dont know which optics to get 90 or 120???

Your comments will be helpful!

Chris


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Old 06/30/2011, 11:37 AM   #32
bmco
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Originally Posted by ti-christ View Post
Hello

I have a 180g tank with 6'x2'x2' and 2 feet depth. Currently, I have 3x 250W HQI Pheonix Bulb (14000k). I like the color and I have keeping mosty SPS and LPS. I also have some softies in dark area.

I am looking to change my lighting to LED because of high water temperature issue. So, I am looking to buy the Orphek Pr-156 but I dont know how much fixture I need and I dont know which optics to get 90 or 120???

Your comments will be helpful!

Chris
I'd use between 4 to 5 units. 120' will fit your depth. You will get much more than your MH fixtures for less electricity.


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Old 07/01/2011, 11:48 AM   #33
ColaAddict
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Okay, I just took the plunge and bought me an Orphek PR156W+UV. I have a 90gal, but it's a Corner tank, so it's hard to configure how I'm gonna put more than 1 orphek over it. I only bought 1 to see if it will be enough to light my whole tank. I have SPS from the middle up of the tank.


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Old 07/01/2011, 11:51 AM   #34
mykol
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Give us some pics man!


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Old 07/01/2011, 11:54 AM   #35
ColaAddict
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Oh, I just ordered it from Aquarium Specialty. The have that 4th of july sale right now and I can get it for 5% off. I have to wait for it to come.


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Old 07/11/2011, 11:22 AM   #36
ti-christ
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I hope that you know UV is very dangereous to skin and eyes!!!


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Old 07/11/2011, 01:16 PM   #37
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I hope that you know UV is very dangereous to skin and eyes!!!
The UV diodes are pretty much 380nm to 410nm which is more of a violet LED. I think that is why the manufacturer is calling them UV/Violet. True UV is invisible to the naked eye and the UV in this industry is somewhat of a misnomer.


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Old 09/05/2011, 04:13 PM   #38
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I'm curious to as what the UV does for the color and health of corals?

Also is it really dangerous to the naked eye?


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Old 09/05/2011, 04:21 PM   #39
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I have no idea if it's dangerous to the eye at the level in these LEDs...you'll have to google that. I also don't recommend staring at these. They are very intense like all LED lights.

As for what the UV does. Well I have my PR156 with just blue and I use the ML7 that I was using previously and the UV adds more of a purplish color and makes the corals florescent colors pop more than just the blue alone......


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Old 09/05/2011, 06:41 PM   #40
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I guess the question is if it's UVA, UVB or UVC.


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Old 09/05/2011, 07:32 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by msr224 View Post
The UV diodes are pretty much 380nm to 410nm which is more of a violet LED. I think that is why the manufacturer is calling them UV/Violet. True UV is invisible to the naked eye and the UV in this industry is somewhat of a misnomer.
What that guy said. It's just another sort of actinic lighting. Makes the fluorescent stuff really fluoresce. The Orphek moonlight is REALLY cool.


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Old 09/05/2011, 10:07 PM   #42
msr224
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What that guy said. It's just another sort of actinic lighting. Makes the fluorescent stuff really fluoresce. The Orphek moonlight is REALLY cool.
Moonpod

I know you have a mix of different par 38. Can you list some thoughts on the different ones that you own?


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Old 09/05/2011, 11:49 PM   #43
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I have the nano tuners and the ecoxotic bulbs in the back. They are pretty similar IMO. Orphek PR25 in front of those. These are the brightest of the p38 that I own, not surprisingly since they are rated at the highest wattage. They are putatitively slightly different but they don't look all that different to me. Then I also have some Wingoled 18w bulbs on the wings. These are interesting because they have a very unique mix of leds. He threw in some red and green as well as the usual blue and whites. The green does some cool stuff to fish colors and what not. No idea if the green adds much par/pur. These not surprising penetrate better than the 15w or so ecoxotic and nano tuner bulbs. Of note: the nano tuner is visually brighter than the ecoxotic, but the par numbers were similar. I also have the Orphek ML7--that thing is so cool. Coolest moonlight I've used over the years. Anyways, it sorta breaks down like this: The p38s I use are all the 14-16k bulbs. I don't find them yellow at all, nor too blue. PAR numbers on a meter were good except towards the very bottom (32" deep tank). I don't think you can get a good mix of spread and PAR at that depth with these. For that I got the Orphek 100w spot. That thing is ridiculous. To date, the LPS and softies really seem to like the lights. No heat issues. No reliability issues. Given the topography of my tank, the mix of p38 and a 100w spot in the front works well. The "area" of the tank could be lit well with just 2 of the 100w spots for simplicity, but nothing towards the top of the rock work would survive bleaching. As is, even with the p38s over the shallow areas, I have to be careful


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