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#26 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 101
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sounds perfect, i wish that price tag were about $150 lower, but its the best i've seen so far, so it looks like i'll have to invest =/
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#27 | |
Always deep under
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Il
Posts: 128
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Quote:
I don't like too much unnatural blue over my tank. Corals look fake to me, but a tint of blue\pink is nice to my eyes, more than this, my corals love the spectrum I have now. The colors are more vivid and natural than ever before. I trim my corals on a weekly basis. some of my friends enjoy it. You are invited... ![]() I do have duplicates in different locations and as you could see with MH or T5 lights before, they look a bit different in each location with LED too. |
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#28 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 101
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So I've been reading where people talk about changing the intensity of the bulbs for different dur
ations through the day. Is this a necessity? Will I need to get a controller, or is this more for high end vitals and delicate systems? |
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#29 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Hamilton
Posts: 93
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Changing the intensity of the lights is for our enjoyment only. It makes absolutely no difference to the corals, "high end" or not. A controller would be useless with the Orphek as it has it's own timer and there's no dimming option. The Orphek has the dawn/dusk blue lights (which are very cool) and daylights, each with their own timers. That's really all you need.
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30 Gal Reef. Skimmerless. HOB 'fuge. Orphek PR 156, MP10, SPS, LPS, RBTA, 2 Percs 2 Azure Damsels. and various inverts. Current Tank Info: Staring over |
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#30 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 101
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I can't wait to get a hold of one. Could someone post a pic of theirs, preferably mounted with the included hardware.
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#31 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 153
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Hello
I have a 180g tank with 6'x2'x2' and 2 feet depth. Currently, I have 3x 250W HQI Pheonix Bulb (14000k). I like the color and I have keeping mosty SPS and LPS. I also have some softies in dark area. I am looking to change my lighting to LED because of high water temperature issue. So, I am looking to buy the Orphek Pr-156 but I dont know how much fixture I need and I dont know which optics to get 90 or 120??? Your comments will be helpful! Chris |
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#32 | |
Always deep under
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Il
Posts: 128
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Quote:
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#33 |
Moved On
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Northbrook
Posts: 370
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Okay, I just took the plunge and bought me an Orphek PR156W+UV. I have a 90gal, but it's a Corner tank, so it's hard to configure how I'm gonna put more than 1 orphek over it. I only bought 1 to see if it will be enough to light my whole tank. I have SPS from the middle up of the tank.
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#34 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 101
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Give us some pics man!
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#35 |
Moved On
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Northbrook
Posts: 370
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Oh, I just ordered it from Aquarium Specialty. The have that 4th of july sale right now and I can get it for 5% off. I have to wait for it to come.
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#36 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 153
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I hope that you know UV is very dangereous to skin and eyes!!!
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#37 | |
Registered Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 540
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Quote:
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The best thing a man can do for his children is to love their mother. Current Tank Info: Just a mixed reef tank. |
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#38 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 16
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I'm curious to as what the UV does for the color and health of corals?
Also is it really dangerous to the naked eye? |
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#39 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 540
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I have no idea if it's dangerous to the eye at the level in these LEDs...you'll have to google that. I also don't recommend staring at these. They are very intense like all LED lights.
As for what the UV does. Well I have my PR156 with just blue and I use the ML7 that I was using previously and the UV adds more of a purplish color and makes the corals florescent colors pop more than just the blue alone......
__________________
The best thing a man can do for his children is to love their mother. Current Tank Info: Just a mixed reef tank. |
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#40 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 16
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I guess the question is if it's UVA, UVB or UVC.
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#41 | |
Premium Member
![]() Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: B.H., Los Angeles
Posts: 13,053
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Quote:
__________________
Excuses are just the nails for the house of failure. Current Tank Info: 32" Leemar starfire cube now empty and not quite so stinky |
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#42 | |
Registered Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 540
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Quote:
I know you have a mix of different par 38. Can you list some thoughts on the different ones that you own?
__________________
The best thing a man can do for his children is to love their mother. Current Tank Info: Just a mixed reef tank. |
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#43 |
Premium Member
![]() Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: B.H., Los Angeles
Posts: 13,053
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I have the nano tuners and the ecoxotic bulbs in the back. They are pretty similar IMO. Orphek PR25 in front of those. These are the brightest of the p38 that I own, not surprisingly since they are rated at the highest wattage. They are putatitively slightly different but they don't look all that different to me. Then I also have some Wingoled 18w bulbs on the wings. These are interesting because they have a very unique mix of leds. He threw in some red and green as well as the usual blue and whites. The green does some cool stuff to fish colors and what not. No idea if the green adds much par/pur. These not surprising penetrate better than the 15w or so ecoxotic and nano tuner bulbs. Of note: the nano tuner is visually brighter than the ecoxotic, but the par numbers were similar. I also have the Orphek ML7--that thing is so cool. Coolest moonlight I've used over the years. Anyways, it sorta breaks down like this: The p38s I use are all the 14-16k bulbs. I don't find them yellow at all, nor too blue. PAR numbers on a meter were good except towards the very bottom (32" deep tank). I don't think you can get a good mix of spread and PAR at that depth with these. For that I got the Orphek 100w spot. That thing is ridiculous. To date, the LPS and softies really seem to like the lights. No heat issues. No reliability issues. Given the topography of my tank, the mix of p38 and a 100w spot in the front works well. The "area" of the tank could be lit well with just 2 of the 100w spots for simplicity, but nothing towards the top of the rock work would survive bleaching. As is, even with the p38s over the shallow areas, I have to be careful
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Excuses are just the nails for the house of failure. Current Tank Info: 32" Leemar starfire cube now empty and not quite so stinky |
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