400 Gallon Mixed Reef Tank Build

[Pixelboi]

I am in the process of building a moderately sized reef tank. Since I am sick with the flu and pretty down and out at this moment. I decided, hey... what the heck lets do a Build Thread...

I currently have a 150 gallon mixed reef tank that has been up and running for about 4 years and has almost every bell and whistle one could want for that size tank. I have ordered some of the equipment for the new tank and would love to hear some suggestions on where I may have made* good or bad decisions on my selections. This will be a rather quick build due to the OCD and ridiculous addiction to this hobby of ours. This system should shake out to be about 680 gallon total system volume.

Listed below are some of the specs and equipment planned to be implemented. The tank will be assembled in the garage and completely setup, plumbed and water tested before finding it's final location in the living room. Moving this tank twice is really going to be a B _ T_ H!

Please assist or comment..

Tank & Overflow:
Tank dim: 96" x 36" x 28"* @ 3/4" thick glass* = (420 gallons)
Front and side panels are Starphire & 4" euro bracing
The back panel of the tank is dropped 2" for a full coast to coast external overflow.

Overflow dim: 96" x 6.5" x 7" with toothed wier integrated into a 96" x 27" acrylic black 3/8" removable rear panel.

Bulkheads: 3- 1.5" with the BeanAnimal drains & 4- 1.5" returns reduced to 1".

Sump:
Sump/Refugium dim: 50" x 24" x 22" @ 3/8" (see diagram) = (125 gallons)
Return bulkheads = Two 2" reduced to 1.25"
Tank Drain Bulkheads = Three 1.5"

Frag Tank:
Dim: 48" x 36" x 18" = 135 Gallons
3/8" Acrylic construction

Existing & Proposed Equipment:
Return pumps: Either Water Blaster 16000W or 2 ReeFlo Dart-Gold External Pumps ( This is where I will need some assistance )
Skimmer: Super Reef Octopus XP-5000 External (I also have an SRO 3000 EXT for additional skimming or backup)
x1 Apex Complete System [x3 Energy bar 8's, PM-1,2&3, ORP x3-PH, conductivity, x2-temp, WXM] (existing)
x1 Geo CA Reactor (existing)
x1 40 Watt Emperor Aquatics Smart UV (existing)
x1 Geo Kalkwasser Reactor (existing)
x2 Reef Oct BR-140 Bio-pellt reactors (existing)
x4 BRS 2 Part Dosing pumps for supplements (existing)
x2 Vortech MP40's (existing)
x1 MP 60 (need to purchase)
x4 LuXcore 250w-400w Selectable Ballast (need to purchase)
x4 CoralVue Lumen Bright Finished DE Pendant (need to purchase)

Stand:
Dim: 98"x37"x36" with a 7" cantilever
I had the stand made by a local carpenter using 6"x8' LVL "Micro Lams" running the full length of the stand. There is 48" center opening for the refugium access and two additional openings for equipment access. The entire frame will be skinned with a finished walnut veneer and doors for the access door openings. See pics...

I will make every attempt to document this build. Hope this one becomes as interesting as the other great builds on this site. Thank you in advance for any assistance you may provide...

Stand Delivery:



Stand Interior Construction:




Stand Prep:
I applied silicone to all the joints on the lower portion of the stand. Tomorrow I will paint the interior with an Exterior Semi-gloss white paint to give it a clean and moisture resistant look.




Tank Arrival:
Sorry but I did not take any pics of the labor intensive placement of the tank. For a mental picture.. Imagine the building of the pyramids of giza.

You may not be able to see from this angle, but the back panel is 2" lower that the rest of the tank and the removable black acrylic wier can be adjusted for tank water level.


External Coast to Coast Overflow. There are seven 1.5" bulkheads (Not installed yet, perhaps when my fever subsides : -(


Euro bracing on the top and bottom of the tank.

Much of the tank design was inspired by Tom "Glass Reef". His setup is amazing and loved how he documented each leg of his journey.

Over the next few weeks I will try to get better progress pictures. The flu kinda takes the wind out of your sails when you are cooking a 102 temp.

[Pixelboi]

Small update... I have applied the first of three coats of paint on the interior of the stand. I have also installed the 1.5" bulkheads and drains. Still have the flu and taking it slow. Perhaps more updates tomorrow...

Stand Interior:

The bottom base area will be painted in a different color epoxy paint.


FYI... I suck at painting!

All 7 1.5" SCH 80 Bulkheads:




View of the C2C Overflow with the wier taken off.



Closeup Of the 3 drains:




I will try and write some details on the drain system. However, I am sure you can find a better documented thread regarding this drain system. Merry Christmas you all of you!

[Pixelboi]

Quick note... I just realized that I dry fitted the wrong T's on the drains... I will need to pick up a pair of street T's on Monday. I believe that the standard T's would still get the job done. However it's not what the doctor ordered.

[Robert1969]

Looking forward to updates. Looks very nice!

[muttley000]

Awesome, and tagging along for what looks like it will be an great thread!

[janey]

wow, Nice... Where you get the tank from ??/ Later on i want 1 custom built with Starphire all around as a peninsula

[Chappy]

Nice start! Can the black panel come all the way out of the tank or can it only lay forward?

As far as suggestions...I doubt you would need to reduce to one inch from the 1.5 inch as you might need it from the amount of flow you might be planning.

I think the skimmer might be a little underpowered but might be alright too.

I'm going to pm you also.

[Pixelboi]

Originally Posted by Chappy

Nice start! Can the black panel come all the way out of the tank or can it only lay forward?

As far as suggestions...I doubt you would need to reduce to one inch from the 1.5 inch as you might need it from the amount of flow you might be planning.

I think the skimmer might be a little underpowered but might be alright too.

I'm going to pm you also.

Chappy,

1. The black panel does come off and due to it's flexibility it can be removed from the tank without breaking. One thing that will have to be modified on the acrylic back panel is the toothed weir. The slots are too small at 1/4" and will either be re-channeled at 1/2" or removed altogether and have a smooth weir. I think the latter is where it will end up. The intended flow may be too great for a toothed weir and still maintain a silent overflow.


Toothed Wier on the overflow box


Toothed weir removed that would perhaps provide more flow and a lot more silence!

2. All 3 drains will remain at 1.5" to the sump (1 Full Siphon, 1 Open Chanel "semi siphon", 1 Emergency Chanel. The returns I have planned "I may be incorrect" to reduce them to 1". From the pumps "2 Water Blasters 16000W" up through the 1.5" bulkheads in the overflow box, out of the overflow box reduced again to 1" sch 80 pvc to an elbow, reduce to 3/4" octolines then into the tank. I was told that reducing the lines will create more pressure, in-turn create more water movement in the tank.

3. The skimmer I have planned is the Reef Octopus XP 5000 coned skimmer rated to 700 gal or 500 heavy load with a 6" neck! I also have an SRO 3000 external should I need more skimming.

A quick plug for the SRO 3000 External. It is a BEAST! I have a Reef Octopus BR-140 Bio pellet reactor hooked up to the skimmer intake and it ejects nastiness on a consistently... I have this skimmer at its lowest water level setting and it still pumps out a considerable amount of skimmate each day. Perhaps not as dry as I would like it to be but still chock full of nuts!



I am guilty of many things... One of them happens to be cleaning my skimmer. Perhaps it's time for a neck cleaner. If you are wondering about the hanging mirror in the background. That puppy keeps the peace with all of my tangs that tend to think that they are in the gangs of New York...

I will PM you with the answers to your question shortly.

[Pixelboi]

FYI.. The pic of the SRO 3000 was after cleaning it 2 days ago. I have to clean this Beast out every 2-3 days or it will look like the picture above. It produces about a gallon of thick nasty skimmate every 2 days.

If you are wondering if within the past hour of taking that picture, if I cleaned the skimmer? Nope... I'm still sick with the flu and it's about time those fish clean up after themselves and take care of me!

Until that day happens, I will have to take a few shots of Dayquil and get my butt back to work for these damn fish!

Never a day off...
They take a larger share of my gross income than the IRS...
Blood, Sweat & Tears for these fellas...
My ROI... Priceless!

[Jamie9169]

Very nice start to what I am positive will be a fantastic build. Looking forward to your updates and pictures. Subscribed.

[ReefTECK]

did you build the tank yourself?

[Chappy]

Thanks for the pm. Tagging along.

[Pixelboi]

The only accomplishment for today was finishing the 3rd coat of paint to the stand interior.


Three coats of exterior white latex...


Going for that sterile hospital look.


If you are wondering why all of my pictures are with sharp angles and none of them are of the full tank or stand... The tank is in a 1 car garage and have only 2 feet on either side to work on this puppy!

While finishing the interior of the stand I was thinking it would have been great to make this build as an in wall system with a maintenance room behind it. I am realizing how difficult it is going to be to access the drain and return lines in case of an emergency "FYI: everything will have true unions on them". I knew it was going to be difficult, however theory is much different than reality when it's sitting in front of you…

A tank of this size really requires a fish room for maintenance and equipment. I unfortunately do not have the luxury of having a basement or another spare room where the tank will ultimately be located. I will have to store all equipment neatly under the tank. The tank will be situation in a 14'x16' room located in the front of the house that is slab on grade with a wall of windows to the left of the tank, so I can't build a wall and no option to plumb in the basement.

Before I started this venture I was fully aware of my limitations. However I spent the last hour looking at other great build threads on RC and there are some amazing systems of equal size and they all have equipment rooms that service the tank. I will not be at any disadvantage with regards to the proper equipment to maintain this system. The only differential is the convenience of water storage and elaborate behind the scenes equipment that normally cannot be stored under the tank, also called "The Man Cave".

I really… REALLY want a Reef Man Cave!!! I have one for my reloading room on the second floor so I filled my quota for this house. Damn it…

I currently have two 75 gallon storage tanks for RO/DI and makeup water. I will be ordering a 185 gallon storage tank from US Plastics. That should cover the bulk water storage aspect. However it is all the way on the other side of the house "65 feet away". I currently use two 20 gallon tanks with 1/2" bulkheads and pumps in them to service my 150 reef tank (See picture below).


I fill these tanks once a week and the Apex takes care of the rest...

They are both connected to my apex and replenish the tank for top-off and automatic water changes or changes in salinity. This will have to be doubled for the new tank. I am looking at a circuit board tank at US Plastics that is 14"x30"x30" that will fit inside the tank stand for the auto top-off. This would solve the top-off problem, BUT NOT THE REEF MAN CAVE ISSUE! I knew being single had it's advantages!!!

I am sorry for the rant... As I read over this comment, I just realized that I am whining like a little girl over a freak'in equipment room...
Ahh... But what a room it could have been...

Below is a pick of what the spaghetti looks like on my current system. I would like to avoid this kind of mess...


What a mess!


More mess...


And... You guessed it! MORE MESS...


I can finally get the skimmer out of plain sight and under the new tank with 33" of head room I can get creative...


This is a pic of the tank last year when I was using eight 60" VHO lights. I liked the VHO's better than the MH I have now. The corals did very well, but then I got into SPS and needed the higher PAR values...

[donduncan]

are you running kalk and ca reactor on a softy and lps tank?

[Pixelboi]

Originally Posted by donduncan

are you running kalk and ca reactor on a softy and lps tank?

DonDuncan,

My favorite coral is a Duncan... Did you see the huge one in last years tank pic? It has like 60 heads on it!

Since last year I started keeping more SPS and LPS and slowly reduced my softies. I still have a few leathers, one of my favorite is a mushroom leather that is about 18" tall and the cap is about 14" in diameter The stalk on this puppy has got to be 3"-4" in diameter. The other monster is a tree leather that has got to be about 16" tall and 18" wide.

As for the calcium reactor and Kalkwasser reactor.. Back then I only used the calcium reactor and then added the Geo Kalk Reactor about 11 months ago. I programmed my Apex to dose the tank three times a week with kalkwasser and about 180ml each dose. I do not use it for top-off. My CA is always above 450 and PH holds steady around 8.24 to 8.28. I also dose the tank with some Aquavitro & Brightwell products via 4 BRS dosing pumps.

I hope this answered your question...

[muttley000]

You have one heck of a system going now, I'm sure the new system will be even better. Paint job looks great!

[Pixelboi]

Originally Posted by muttley000

You have one heck of a system going now, I'm sure the new system will be even better. Paint job looks great!

Thank you for the encouragement on the paint job, white tends to be an easy color to work with.

[Pixelboi]

Here are some thoughts on the sump system. Here are the following attributes for the design:

Dimensions: 50"x24"x22"

1. All 3 Drains will drain into a separate chamber that will then overflow onto the filter sock platform into two 7" filter socks. There is a 2" platform lip, just incase the filter socks clog up.

2. After flowing though the filter socks it will enter into another chamber that will underflow then overflow into 2 sets of baffles then into the refugium area.

3. The skimmer return has it's own chamber that will underflow then over flow through the bubble traps then into the refugium. The 1.5" bulk head will have a "T" and pipe extending down below the water level and up extending 3" above the water level.

4. The refugium area is L shaped and the square section is 18"x24" and the skimmer return section into the refugium is 9"x8"

5. The back section of the euro bracing of refugium will have JG fittings for all the dosing pumps. and below that in the refugium area it will have a probe holding station.

6. The sump/ refugium will have 4" Euro Bracing.

7. The return section has 4 baffles spaced 2" - 1" apart with the first baffle having 1/4" interior strips to support an egg crate to add either a sponge or whatever.. The large spacing between baffles is for the intended tank flow and pumps.

8. Return chamber is 16" and the water level will at 11" for that chamber and a constant 11" for the refugium.

9. The dimensions in the drawings show different values on each drawing. This is due to the ever changing thought process and OCD. Sorry... I will draft up the final drawings later for inspection.

10. The down drain capacity will be about 55+ gallons and the operation capacity will be approximately 65 gallons.

11. The return pump bulkheads will be 2" reduced to 1.25" for the Water Blaster pumps. The skimmer return bulkhead will be at 1.5" with all SCH 80 bulkheads. All pumps will have SCH 80 true union ball valves on the in & out fittings.







This will perhaps be the final design..



If anyone has some suggestions, I would love to hear your thoughts. I tried to keep the design simple and effective with regards to flow and the reduction of micro bubbles to the return chamber from all inputs.

[Pixelboi]

Here are some GL and wireframes of the sump/refugium. I believe the sump/refugium design is pretty simple and as intended to be...

REMEMBER: K.I.S.S.
















Please advise on your thoughts on this design concept. The gear that will be connect to this sump is listed in the beginning of this thread. The intent is not to have any equipment inside the sump.

[The Codfather]

I have almost the identical sump, this set up is very nice, I like it. The only difference is I have no refugium in mine, I have a separate tank for mine.
In any case, very similar.

[bdwilson]

Looking good, can't wait to see it up and running.

[biecacka]

nice looking tank. as far as kalk and a calcium reactor, there is a guy around me who has both on a softy lps tank and his tank is on steroids!!!
corey

[Pixelboi]

Well... I filled the tank today and tested the C2C overflow. Still waiting for the sump and pumps. As a temporary sump I used an old 55 gallon sump and my backup Mag Drive 18 & 12 for the returns using 3/4" tubing clamped to one of the cross braces.

Even with the mag 18 & 12, the flow going into the tank is half of what is intended. IT'S WHISPER QUIET! Even with the removable back panel and toothed weir on, it was silent. Having the entire back of the tank as a C2C overflow is awesome. The surface skimming and drain is virtually silent!

Here are some pics of the tank filled...



The water line sits about 2" from the rim.




The water line with the current flow rate is about 1/2" below the toothed weir.




The return bulkheads have temporary 1.5" PVC stacks to prevent water from draining the C2C overflow.






Water level in the C2C overflow

[rayn]

Awesome build, following along.

[data_loss]

I'd love to have a tank like this someday, following for sure