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Old 02/17/2013, 07:10 PM   #1
owenspackman
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owenspackmans 180 Reef upgrade build.

A few weeks ago we tore down my 120 Gallon 48 x 24 x 24 after finding a leak under the tank. It appeared at first inspection the tank had cracked at the bulkhead, the plumbing was torn out, rock, water, sand, live stock removed and the tank taken into sunlight for inspection........turns out it wasn't cracked, but the bulkhead had loosened and was leaking.

Due to tax-return/bonus time and the fact the tank had only be set up for the 2nd time a mere 4-5 months ago (and my desire to upgrade overwhelming me) I decided when i rebuild, to do so with a 180.

Last week I ordered a 180 Rimless 48 x 36 x 24, 3-sided Starphire from Miracles and am looking at a 6 week build time.

Currently fish are in 30g quarantine (two baby Regal Blue Tangs, Ocellaris Clown pair, Royal Gramma and two Blue Chromis), all live rock, inverts and frags are in a Rubbermaid and sand with water in another. All will be re-used.

I will be building my own cabinet (a first for me) and have taken inspiration from member insanityink2 as i think his cabinet is just amazing.

I will be documenting the build here, i hope you will come along for the ride.

Here are some photos of how the 120 was before it was torn down, bearing in mind it was only 4-5 months old at the time and a mere baby in reef terms.

Zoas

Xenia Coral

Green Button Polyp

Duncan Coral

DSC_0097

DSC_0041

DSC_0045

DSC_0141

DSCN0390


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Old 02/17/2013, 07:17 PM   #2
jimmy frag
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thats some nice camera work my friend. you should also post a thread in the photograpy


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Old 02/17/2013, 07:18 PM   #3
owenspackman
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Originally Posted by jimmy frag View Post
thats some nice camera work my friend. you should also post a thread in the photograpy
thank you, i'm just learning how to use my SLR and haven't had much chance to play with Macro yet. I will during the new set up!


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Old 02/17/2013, 07:32 PM   #4
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Today I worked on building the cabinet frame. Because i'm using the same style of cabinet as insanityink2 and having a ledge around the outside of the tank I could start the cabinet build before the tank arrives. This gives me 6 weekends to knock this out.

I've gone for 38" in height, I wanted the tank to sit much higher than the 120, plus I wanted much more internal cabinet space than I've previously had, the ledge around the tank also will give me an added 12" of internal cabinet length.

Bottom box frame is 2x4's and the top 2x8's. I probably over built it, but myself and the girlfriend want the peace of mind. I added the extra 2x4's into the top frame due to the tank not sitting flush to the corners of the stand due to the ledge.

Mapping out the cabinet width and length along with the hight we wanted the tank to sit at.
IMG_7296

Building the bottom & top frame
IMG_7292

got a little carried away and forgot to take photos in-between here. I ran out of screws to attach the legs to the frames, so its just resting in place currently.
IMG_7303

IMG_7299

IMG_7312

IMG_7309

Should have plenty of space inside the cabinet.
IMG_7315

IMG_7323


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Old 02/23/2013, 07:00 PM   #5
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Today more work was done on the stand. Picked up the Oak Plywood from Lowes and started making cuts and nailing down. We were able to get the top and cabinet floor completed today and nailed down. We laid out the tile on the top to get an idea for the look.

Tomorrow will be the front and sides, then wood filling the nails and gaps.

DSC_0062

DSC_0064

DSC_0065

DSC_0066

DSC_0067

DSC_0073

Here is the quarantine set up, housing two Ocellaris Clowns, two Chromis, two baby Blue Regal Tangs and a Royal Gramma.
DSC_0019


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Old 02/23/2013, 08:00 PM   #6
bpcardona
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Looking good. What is your plan for painting the inside? Might I suggest a rubberize paint?


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Old 02/23/2013, 08:04 PM   #7
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Looking good. What is your plan for painting the inside? Might I suggest a rubberize paint?
You might suggest it! Do you have a brand to recommend? I had planned to silicone all the seams and then use kills, but am more than willing to hear suggestions!


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Old 02/23/2013, 08:31 PM   #8
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I can't recommend, because I didn't do this. I wish I had. However......

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showth...t=rubber+paint


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Old 02/23/2013, 09:16 PM   #9
owenspackman
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Originally Posted by bpcardona View Post
I can't recommend, because I didn't do this. I wish I had. However......

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showth...t=rubber+paint
interesting, thanks for the link, i'll have to give it a read. I have used plasti-dip before on my car rims to good effect. I think a coat or two of kills plus the plasti-dip would be a great combo, especially as the white paint tends to dirty after time.

thanks for giving me the suggestion!


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Old 02/24/2013, 06:47 PM   #10
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today we started skinning the sides and front of the tank. Got along quite well. Need to punch in all the nails, fill and sand. Also need to neaten all the edges and sand before trim next weekend.

DSC_0006

DSC_0007

DSC_0010

DSC_0031

DSC_0049

DSC_0055

DSC_0078

DSC_0079


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Old 02/24/2013, 06:51 PM   #11
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DSC_0055

Forget the fish tank post more pic like this! Really the stand looks good.


I was looking through the photos again, and I have a question. How much light does that window next to the tank get?


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Old 02/24/2013, 09:12 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by bpcardona View Post
I was looking through the photos again, and I have a question. How much light does that window next to the tank get?
The room is very bright and well lit due to a number of windows on that wall, but with the blinds being closed all day the tank gets no direct sunlight, the viewing of the tank is never effected either by the daylight.

The temperature is always cool in that room as the direct sun is early in the day. The Carolina blazing summers don't even make the room warm up, in the winter it gets quite cool in there, but the tank heaters have always managed to keep very stable temperatures.


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Old 02/24/2013, 09:20 PM   #13
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Just as a thought, you might look into this tint. I am about to have this done Wednesday. Really not the expensive, and there is a federal rebate. It cuts out the heat almost entirely and will reduce the light transmitted by 85%. You can get it lighter as well I just get a ton of light.

Untitled



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Old 02/24/2013, 09:37 PM   #14
owenspackman
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Originally Posted by bpcardona View Post
Just as a thought, you might look into this tint. I am about to have this done Wednesday. Really not the expensive, and there is a federal rebate. It cuts out the heat almost entirely and will reduce the light transmitted by 85%. You can get it lighter as well I just get a ton of light.
just noticed this on your thread, its an interesting option. I don't think heat will effect the tank is any way, but the 120 did get reflections from the blinds when attempting to take photos during the day, so the tint is something to think about!


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Old 02/25/2013, 12:25 AM   #15
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This is a great build so far. I will def. be following along!


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180g Mixed Reef build in progress
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2227923

75g LPS Dominate Reef.

Current Tank Info: Building a 180 Reef, Currently have a 75 Reef
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Old 02/25/2013, 01:16 AM   #16
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nice build ...


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Old 02/25/2013, 12:32 PM   #17
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I don't want to be the naysayer, but I really don't think that stand is going to work. If the tank is sitting where the tile ends then you have the entire weight of the tank on 3 2x4's only attached with screws. I would seriously rethink things before you go any further. Putting the tank on that stand as it sits will result in a massive failure. If you have put vertical supports under those 2x4's, and another 2x8 cross piece under what would be the front of the tank, then please post updated pics.


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Old 02/25/2013, 04:40 PM   #18
owenspackman
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I don't want to be the naysayer, but I really don't think that stand is going to work. If the tank is sitting where the tile ends then you have the entire weight of the tank on 3 2x4's only attached with screws. I would seriously rethink things before you go any further. Putting the tank on that stand as it sits will result in a massive failure. If you have put vertical supports under those 2x4's, and another 2x8 cross piece under what would be the front of the tank, then please post updated pics.
no naysayer at all, i would rather have the opinions that are better than mine to, i'm no engineer and this is my first attempt at anything like this. Are you experienced in engineering? (please don't take offense to my asking that....)

The 2x8 cross piece, would this need to be 1 complete cut (meaning removing the 2x4s and installing them in 2 sections later or could it be installed in sections between the already installed 2x4's (does that make any sense?!).

Vertical supports under those horizontal upper 2x4's is really going to make the inside of the cabinet messy and awkward to work with. Would love another option is there was on, but i'm guessing there isn't.

This is where the cabinet idea comes from, i'm guess this just works without vertical supports due to being steel over wood? Or is he destined for a failure to?





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Old 02/25/2013, 07:57 PM   #19
owenspackman
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Originally Posted by cdrewferd View Post
I don't want to be the naysayer, but I really don't think that stand is going to work. If the tank is sitting where the tile ends then you have the entire weight of the tank on 3 2x4's only attached with screws. I would seriously rethink things before you go any further. Putting the tank on that stand as it sits will result in a massive failure. If you have put vertical supports under those 2x4's, and another 2x8 cross piece under what would be the front of the tank, then please post updated pics.
please tell me what you think of this solution, hopefully it will suffice.

the beams underneath were changed since the photo due to the center beam interfering with the overflow, so it currently looks like this, the outter 2x4's run along the edge of where the tank will sit.
IMG_7453

Step one:
Here are the front corners currently
IMG_7447

I will use a 2x8 and 2x4 screwed together at a 90. The 2x8 running from bottom to underside of horizontal 2x4 beam. The 2x4 will run vertical from bottom to underside of plywood. These will be fixed in place with screws from outside, through the frame. Using the 2x8 will allow it to run from flush at the front of the cabinet, inward 8" supporting 2" into where the tank starts, as the tank sits 6" back.
IMG_7449
IMG_7446

Step two:
In the center i will screw two 2x8's together to form a 4x8. These will run vertical from bottom to underside of plywood, starting flush from the cabinet from 8" inward.
IMG_7451


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Old 02/25/2013, 09:21 PM   #20
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Your wood work blows my mind!!!!! Great job I can't wait to see some life inside that tank.


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Old 02/25/2013, 10:50 PM   #21
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Just my thoughts on the stand- All you really need to do is to transfer the weight from the 2x4 joists to the front and back 2x8 beam. Standard screws or even heavy framing nails are not intended to hold in shear. Metal joist hangars with rated joist hangar nails would transfer the load but lets face it... metal and salt just don't mix well. What i would do is run a 2x4 against the 2x8 so that the joists sit on it. Then secure the new 2x4 and the 2x8 together with some method meant to hold shear. Timberlock makes a fastener that would be ideal for this. They are all weather lags meant for attaching exterior deck ledger boards. Just my thoughts but looks like an easy fix.

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Old 02/26/2013, 05:19 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by tundra1000 View Post
Just my thoughts on the stand- All you really need to do is to transfer the weight from the 2x4 joists to the front and back 2x8 beam. Standard screws or even heavy framing nails are not intended to hold in shear. Metal joist hangars with rated joist hangar nails would transfer the load but lets face it... metal and salt just don't mix well. What i would do is run a 2x4 against the 2x8 so that the joists sit on it. Then secure the new 2x4 and the 2x8 together with some method meant to hold shear. Timberlock makes a fastener that would be ideal for this. They are all weather lags meant for attaching exterior deck ledger boards. Just my thoughts but looks like an easy fix.

-Matt
That's an idea. Is this the Timberlok fastener you were referring to?

http://www.fastenmaster.com/details/...ng-system.html

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1361877555.155348.jpg


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Old 02/26/2013, 09:16 AM   #23
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Yes, I believe either the 2x8s, or the solution from tundra1000 would work.


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Old 02/26/2013, 05:22 PM   #24
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I stand slightly corrected

It is not timberlock but ledgerlock. Same company but two different products. Ledger lock has the shear strength needed. You should be able to find some at any local boxstore. If you cannot find them use carriage bolts and slightly countersink them so they do not interfere with your plywood facia. Either way the idea is to transfer the load to the front and rear 2x8. Although I will probably get knocked for promoting this you could bypass the load bearing fasteners and just glue and screw the 2x4 against the 2x8. essentially a lamination. Glue can be effective here because the grain will be the same.

-Matt


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Old 02/26/2013, 05:42 PM   #25
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Wow a lot work but its all paying off! Keep it up


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