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Old 04/02/2017, 09:58 PM   #4226
Hefner413
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Update for me... I think the UV sterilizer running for a couple days is doing some damage to the dinos. My skimmer seems to be producing 10x the prior amount without changing my skimmer settings. Plus my filter floss is filling up much more quickly with brown. So I'm hoping this means millions of dead dino carcasses coming out if the UV and into the filtration. I also turkey basted the rock tonight and lightly blew at the sand to help stir more dinos into the water column. I was pleasantly surprised to see little, if any, brown film/dust collection on the rock after a few hours of lights. And there was only slight collection on the sand.. but minimal. Previously everything would have had had a decent layer of brown dust at this point. I'm optimistic.


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Old 04/03/2017, 06:40 AM   #4227
taricha
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Dinoflagellates.

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Originally Posted by Hefner413 View Post
Update for me... I think the UV sterilizer running for a couple days is doing some damage to the dinos.
Awesome news. You said you got a scope, did you ever get pics, or figure ID?


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Old 04/03/2017, 07:41 AM   #4228
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Killings Dino's and exporting their dead tissue is just the start. You need algae to start taking over the nutrient removal process. Are you seeing algae?


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Old 04/03/2017, 10:22 AM   #4229
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Killings Dino's and exporting their dead tissue is just the start. You need algae to start taking over the nutrient removal process. Are you seeing algae?


No growth in my scrubber yet. My light may be too weak. Plus I forgot to rough up my screen and so I just did that. But with my NO3/NO4/PO4 all measuring zero... Do I need to dose to get it started?


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Old 04/03/2017, 10:30 AM   #4230
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Awesome news. You said you got a scope, did you ever get pics, or figure ID?


Finally got some video: https://youtu.be/M6D3FcOv8SY


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Old 04/03/2017, 11:33 AM   #4231
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No growth in my scrubber yet. My light may be too weak. Plus I forgot to rough up my screen and so I just did that. But with my NO3/NO4/PO4 all measuring zero... Do I need to dose to get it started?
PAR on a scrubber is key... you need excellent lighting to promote real growth.


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Old 04/03/2017, 02:39 PM   #4232
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You need proper light, flow and attachment. Get all these things down and you will be able to grow algae at zero N and P.

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Old 04/03/2017, 09:59 PM   #4233
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Quote:
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Finally got some video: https://youtu.be/M6D3FcOv8SY
Interesting! What is the magnification in the video? pretty high?
If so, I'm going with Amphidinium Carterae(?) I checked your thread with the tank pics here: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh....php?t=2627455 and the growth is a little fuzzier than typical amphidinium, Also the normal kind don't leave the sand so UV would be useless, but you say it's doing something.

It looks similar to some dinos I had in a small tank - see attached pic. The large ones are the typical amphidinium, but the tiny ones i think are a decent match to yours.
If they leave the sand and get killed by UV, then that's interesting new info.

If they are in fact Amphidinium Carterae, then.... this paper says they are 90% killed by 6.4 mg/L of peroxide (0.21 mL/L of our 3% h2o2) - but I couldn't replicate this result with even like 5 or 10x that dose.
This paper says they begin to self-destruct after 5 days of darkness, and are 100% dead never to return after 9 days of dark.
I haven't confirmed that either.


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Old 04/03/2017, 10:49 PM   #4234
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So I still haven't done my tear down yet, been too busy. I figure before I do I may as well give UV a shot. How many watts do I need for a 120 with 30 sump? It seems something I can hook straight into the display through a loop or an internal model would be best since the little buggers are mostly in the display. I saw some internal models posted but it seems those are for much smaller tanks.


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Old 04/03/2017, 11:16 PM   #4235
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For controlling algae, a small unit should be fine. Even a 15 W unit should do the job. I don't think dinoflagellates should be particularly hard to kill, and you could cut back the flow if they seem to be problematic.


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Old 04/03/2017, 11:25 PM   #4236
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Mag is 1200. Most are similar size. I have not seen large and small variations like the pic u posted. And mine definitely leaves the sand. It actually seemed to be thickest on the rock when it was at its worst. And today's sample was from rock also.

And yup that was my initial thread before I found this dedicated dino thread. I almost forgot how ugly the tank was then! You can see in the pics there, my rock coverage is very dense compared to the more patchy rock coverage in the pics you attacked. But yeah, The dark definitely had a huge effect. I went 4 days, maybe 5? And it cleared it up a ton. But it came back... Maybe lights not out not long enough. I could go longer I think, as my corals have done fine with the blackout. I might also try h202 for safe measure. Thanks again everyone for all input! Huuuuge help!


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Old 04/03/2017, 11:32 PM   #4237
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So I still haven't done my tear down yet, been too busy. I figure before I do I may as well give UV a shot. How many watts do I need for a 120 with 30 sump? It seems something I can hook straight into the display through a loop or an internal model would be best since the little buggers are mostly in the display. I saw some internal models posted but it seems those are for much smaller tanks.


Yeah, my internal is 13W, and that would be insufficient for 150gal. Looks like there are 55w sterilizers pretty reasonable on amazon.


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Old 04/03/2017, 11:54 PM   #4238
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get the highest power you can afford and run the slowest flow you can tolerate... how's that for rule of thumb? LOL




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Old 04/04/2017, 09:57 AM   #4239
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May try this 36 watt one

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...=ATVPDKIKX0DER


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Old 04/04/2017, 02:19 PM   #4240
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for $18 more, you can get 50% more power.


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Old 04/04/2017, 06:47 PM   #4241
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Hmm, I would have thought that 1x tank turnover per hour would be fine for dinoflagellates. 18 W should do that for a 125 G tank. A stronger unit won't hurt, though.


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Old 04/04/2017, 07:25 PM   #4242
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hefner413 View Post
No growth in my scrubber yet. My light may be too weak. Plus I forgot to rough up my screen and so I just did that. But with my NO3/NO4/PO4 all measuring zero... Do I need to dose to get it started?
You can try overfeeding but I had to dose no3/po4


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Old 04/04/2017, 07:34 PM   #4243
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What about this 24w internal? http://www.petco.com/shop/en/petcost...ower-head-24w#

Would be nice to avoid any more plumbing. I'd love to have it right in the display since that's where all these little buggers tend to hang out.


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Old 04/04/2017, 08:28 PM   #4244
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It's probably fine if you tank can stand the heat. An internal unit probably will raise the temperature more than an external unit, but that might not matter. The rise might be very, very small.


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Old 04/04/2017, 08:31 PM   #4245
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I agree. I like the internal. Makes life much easier. Although I found it seems to be raising the temp a bit... My tank being more prone to this though at only 29gal.


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Old 04/04/2017, 08:38 PM   #4246
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Whoa. Bertoni called it while I was writing my message it seems. Yeah... Heat is am issue for me.


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Old 04/04/2017, 09:49 PM   #4247
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Well, it's effective a 30 W heater or so that's always on. I can't predict how the tank would respond.


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Old 04/04/2017, 10:10 PM   #4248
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I'm going to go with the internal just for ease of use. . I keep my house cool so heat is never an issue for me.


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Old 04/04/2017, 10:33 PM   #4249
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I suspect if we asked careful questions about people's UV application we'd find that in-tank UV is much more successful. It seems like the number/frequency of dinos passing through in-tank would be much bigger.
Regarding heat, running night-early morning only might be an option.
I'd guess (can't prove) that in-tank at night only would still be more effective than in sump 24/7.


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Old 04/04/2017, 10:49 PM   #4250
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depends on your loop flow. If you have a 10 gallon tank and run 1000 gph... doesn't matter where your UV is.

I have a 380 and my loop is 6000gph.. with 4 powerheads generating 5000gph pulse flows all over... not quite as extreme, but still high enough that my sump and tank water are reasonably well mixed.


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