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#1526 |
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Join Date: Mar 2009
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Just tested NItrates with a new Salifert kit and they're at 25ppm.
Edit: Just tested phosphates again using my Hannah ULR and they are at 0.012264 (4 / 1000 * 3.066). Algae growth has even slowed down since Saturday when they were 0.1ppm. I have been feeding one frozen cube daily. Last edited by Adrnalnrsh; 08/12/2015 at 06:45 PM. |
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#1527 | |
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#1528 |
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Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Chicago
Posts: 105
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So you're 100% sure that pods won't be one of the things that die during Dino's? I just don't want to waste my money buying them
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#1529 |
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Join Date: May 2004
Location: Dallas, TX
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I've never regretted buying pods. I've only regretted not buying enough.
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Failure isn't an option It's a requirement. 660g 380inwall+280smp/surge S/L/Soft/Maxima/RBTA/Clown/Chromis/Anthias/Tang/Mandarin/Jawfish/Goby/Wrasse/D'back. DIY 12' Skimmer ActuatedSurge ConcreteScape |
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#1530 |
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Location: Mountain View, CA, USA
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There are lots of species of dinoflagellates. Copepods might eat some or all species, but I wouldn't count on them fixing any large bloom, personally. That said, I like buying small animal cultures and stocking them as live food and for general cleanup. They probably will survive a dinoflagellate bloom.
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Jonathan Bertoni |
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#1531 |
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Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: corunna,ontario,canada
Posts: 269
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#1532 |
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Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 202
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After this thread and reading more about plankton in general. I've now come to the conclusion that live phytoplankton and zooplankton are probably lacking in most reef Aquaria and are much more essential than I previously thought.
Being the bottom of the food chain in the ocean it sort of makes sense now. |
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#1533 | |
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Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Canada
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Nothing is 100%, but my dinos are exploding; they're coating the walls of my tank. The worst patches are literally covered with various pods. Speck like pods, copepods, ?amphipods, hydroids, etc. I have grammarus -looking shrimp running around too. They aren't killing off or even really reducing the dinos by any means, but they're alive in there. These aren't the commercially available ones. Actually aren't the tisbe/tigger pods detrivores anyway? I did lose pods (and dang near everything else) by repeatedly scraping off 2 inch thick coating of dinos on 3 aquarium walls. Don't try that at home. hth Ivy
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28g cube, CF 105watts! Tunze 9001. Tiny frags: Euphyllia, blasto, ricordea and a rock flower anemone. Lost fish and inverts due to ongoing outbreak of dinoflagellates. Current Tank Info: 28g aio, 105 watt CF lights, no sump or skimmer. 2 sexy shrimp, tiny frogspawn, tiny toadstool, tiny lps. Started Feb '15 |
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#1534 |
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Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 202
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I would try phytoplankton then
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#1535 |
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Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: corunna,ontario,canada
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I have reduced my phytoplankton to 100ml 4 times a day, got a little algae growing on the sand bed, put some under the scope and still can't find any dinos
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#1536 | ||||||||||
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Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 59
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Wow.
I read the entire thread. It's an epic. I totally feel DNA's pain. Maybe I can help you guys make sense of what you're seeing... The thing about mixotrophic dinos is that they're predators that acquired the ability to photosynthesize, not autotrophs that evolved into predators. That's why if you treat O. ovata like algae, you lose. The big mystery is where are dinos getting their nutrients from? Especially in a ULN system?!? Even scientists seem perplexed... Quote:
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Think about it. What do you guys know about dinos? Quote:
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Heterotrophic bacteria are rich in phosphorous; diazotrophic cyanobacteria can fix nitrogen and are rich in iron. That's the hat trick -- the big three limiting nutrients in aquatic ecosystems, right there. This isn't my idea. It popped up in a scientific paper on red tides from 2010 and so obviously applied to O. ovata in a ULNS reef that my jaw dropped open when I read it. Quote:
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>The total bacterial cell/dinoflagellate cell ratio remained >essentially constant through the initial 28 days of culture >growth. Following this period, there was a steady, >significant increase in the total bacterial cell/ >dinoflagellate cell ratio through 49 days of culture growth. That means that the dinos were running the show for the first month or so, but then they lost control and the system shifted to a state in which bacteria were ecologically dominant. What happened? >The percent total bacteria directly associated with the >dinoflagellate cells was high (above 70%) in the inocula >used to initiate the dinoflagellate cultures in this study. >This percentage decreased significantly (to values below 10%) >during the first 7 days, followed by sharp increases (60 to >80%) at 21 to 35 days of culture growth. ... >Peak dinoflagellate culture growth rates (first 4 to 7 days >of culture, Fig. 1) were associated with reduced numbers of >bacteria directly associated with the dinoflagellate cells >while peak relative dinoflagellate cell toxicity was >associated with a significantly increased fraction of closely >associated bacteria. The dinos start off with plenty of food (over 70% of the bacteria in the flask) and eat their way through it in the first week, reproducing rapidly while their food bacteria drop to 10% of the bacterial population. The dinos respond to this crisis by producing poison to suppress competing bacteria and encourage the growth of their food bacteria. They're like farmers spraying weed killer to prevent competition for nutrients in the soil and maximize the growth of their crops, and the population of the dinos' bacterial "symbionts" rapidly recovers over the next two weeks to over 60% of the total bacterial population, preventing a crash in the dino population. Maximum measured toxicity comes at week 4, corresponding to a decline in the population of the dinos' associated bacteria to about 50% of the total population. The dinos have hit a point of diminishing returns. Metabolic waste products and the physical remains of dead dinos and bacteria are piling up in the mucilage -- all the stuff the dinos' bacteria can't eat -- and more and more poison is needed to keep unwanted bacteria away from that growing food resource, but now it looks like that strategy is failing and their food supply is threatened. >Later stages of culture growth (35 to 49 days) were marked >by reductions in dinoflagellate cell toxicity and relatively >uncontrolled increases in the total bacterial cell/ >dinoflagellate cell ratio. ...declines in dinoflagellate >culture density and toxicity corresponded to uncontrolled >increases in the total bacterial cell/dinoflagellate cell >ratio and decreasing proportions of bacteria directly >associated with Ostreopsis cells. At week 5, the dino population is declining. Interestingly, the population of dino-associated bacteria rebounds to over 80% of the total bacterial population -- in all likelihood by eating dead dinos. Even more interestingly, the dino population doesn't rebound along with their food supply, but instead continues to dwindle in weeks 6 and 7... Obviously, something has changed. Quote:
And speaking of opportunistic bacteria... Quote:
But DNA provides us with counterexamples... Quote:
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It looks to me like heterotrophic bacteria are the foundation on which ostis build. These bacteria are rich in phosphorous. Dinos are P-rich organisms, as well, but less so than the bacteria, so there's excess phosphorous in their diet. This waste phosphorous is used to recruit cyano, which is also P-rich, but less so than the dinos. And now the dinos have access to P from the bacteria and N and Fe from the cyano. Sky's the limit. I thought Montireef outcompeted the ostis' bacteria by triggering a minicycle when he added LR. A cycling bacterial biofilter is basically a series of overlapping bacteria blooms, during which nutrient demand is very high. Montireef's experience suggests that slowing the reproduction of the food bacteria by giving them some competition can cause an established dino population to eat itself out of house and home in a matter of days. The addition of a massive dose of heterotrophic bacteria and protists -- Montireef's probiotic zoom juice -- to the system thus seems like the perfect follow-up: the dinos, stressed and perhaps turning on each other because of the sudden scarcity of food, couldn't fight off the invasion. A combination of starvation, hungry protists and microfauna, and "algal degradation by bacteria" apparently overwhelmed the dinos. In essence, Montireef artificially tipped his system into a state where it was dominated by heterotrophs... It's the dirty method without the dirt. But DNA couldn't repeat the experiment. I wonder... Montireef reported snails pooping black for almost a week. Did your snails do that, too, DNA? I'm wondering if Montireef's skimmer was off when he dosed, and if you left yours on just that one time you checked the skimmate cup less than an hour after dosing, or if it was on every time...? The example of O. lenticularis suggests that benthic dinos secrete poison at least in part to control the population of bacteria around them to favor their preferred food species. If O. ovata is doing the same thing, then parachuting in a zillion tiny globs of colloidal organic carbon infested with heterotrophic bacteria and protists seems like it would be absolutely the last thing it wants. Ecology of a bloom of Ostreopsis cf. ovata in the northern Adriatic Sea in the summer of 2009 http://www.researchgate.net/profile/...95e5000000.pdf Cell Growth and Toxins' Content of Ostreopsis cf. Ovata in Presence and Absence of Associated Bacteria http://www.researchgate.net/profile/...0f93000000.pdf Growth, Feeding and Ecological Roles of the Mixotrophic and Heterotrophic Dinoflagellates in Marine Planktonic Food Webs http://hosting03.snu.ac.kr/~hjjeong/...%2045%2065.pdf Associated Bacterial Flora, Growth, and Toxicity of Cultured Benthic Dinoflagellates Ostreopsis lenticularis and Gambierdiscus toxicus http://aem.asm.org/content/55/1/137.full.pdf |
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#1537 | |
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Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 202
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#1538 |
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Join Date: May 2004
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 11,033
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34... If your chain of events is correct, how do you link the UV results? In my case, it was a rapid decimation of dinos .
Maybe dead dinos become a good source for the competing bacteria and tips the scale. If that's the case, then UV alone would be more effective that UV and skimming?
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#1539 |
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Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Iceland
Posts: 1,516
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34 Cygni, thanks for shedding light on several difficult issues.
I've for long suspected bacteria to be a big player when it comes to dinos, but for reefkeepers they are hard to track for several reasons so they don't get discussed much here unless it's cyanobacteria. When it comes to cyanobacteria I've described it as a relationship and not being a symbiotic one. If I disrupt both the cyano and dinos. Dinos will settle in their usual spots first and then the cyano will settle on top. It's like the cyano is seeking out the dinos. It could also be the dinos are attracting the cyano for their benefit, but once this has taken place on the sand it can last for weeks. At least twice the end result has been a big reduction in dinos so one may think cyanobacteria to be a negative force on dinos. On the last occasion on the other hand only few weeks ago the cyano left and didn't leave a dent in the dinos that have stayed at max densities since. It seems like it's difficult for reefers and scientists to get the same results repeatedly or the dynamics and adaptations of the dinos are playing trics on us. Most scientist admit they don't know enough and further studies to be needed. A natural dino bloom has been described to have a rubber band effect with the predators in tow. The predators will always catch up and the bloom will reside. In my closed ecosystem there has been a constant mild bloom for years and predators have never got the upper hand. Unfortunately this law of nature does not apply in my reef tank, but still my bloom has not exceeded mild for a long time. But DNA couldn't repeat the experiment. I wonder... I kept my skimmer running after pouring the skimmate in. I think it's mostly the toxins rather than the cells that are doing harm, but when is it produced and does skimming or charcoal help? Shutting them off may give a rise to the toxins and put livestock in danger. At the time I had some SPS doing alright so I opted against it. I only have astrea snails and they stay off of dinos. Since 34Cygni is not in a galaxy far, far away... I hope to see more of your rays around here. |
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#1540 | |
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: NE Miss
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#1541 | |
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Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 240
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Dinoflagellates.
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Update - I've been having some success with my UV but it has not entirely wiped out the Dino's. I do think it has thinned them and definitely slowed any new ones from growing. ImageUploadedByTapatalk1439774030.175885.jpg ImageUploadedByTapatalk1439774040.677472.jpg ImageUploadedByTapatalk1439774049.979912.jpg One big item where I see improvement is over the back wall. The tank has a pretty big cleanup/water change last weekend and the back wall is still relatively clear. Before the UV the back wall would have had a good coating on it. ImageUploadedByTapatalk1439774129.636702.jpg One item I forgot to mention. I said I have an emperor aquatics 40 watt UV. That was incorrect. I have the 40 watt lite so my flow might still be a little too fast through it. |
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#1542 |
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Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 74
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In the process of a week long blackout and dosing h2o2.....when I briefly turn the lights on my water looks disgusting. ....plan on going a week blues and slowly raising my lights from 3 hrs at 30 percent after the blackout....today started a syphon through a filter sock on top of skimming...I could see them flying around in my water column....as soon as I turned lights on they started attaching...all the while dosing h2o2 and running carbon and a gfo reactor...I have a small system but would not like to start from scratch but I'm at my wits end.
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#1543 | ||||||||||||
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Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 59
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Quote:
It's certainly possible that lysing dinos and bacterioplankton and whatever else are releasing significant amounts of dissolved organic carbon into the system, as well as cellular detritus that gets skimmed off. This DOC would fuel the growth of heterotrophic bacteria and could perhaps result in the disruption of the dinos' little bacteria farms, but it could also fuel the little bacteria farms... In any case, Occam's Razor says that UVS is killing the free-swimming dinos, which are the adult dinos, meaning you're killing off most of the reproducing population -- fewer grown-ups means fewer babies. But on the other hand, slow-flow UV sterilizes the heck out of the water column, which means that way fewer random bacteria and protists are floating around that could potentially get into the dinos' bacteria farms. Additionally, one of the papers I read mentioned that adding a solution of dissolved organic carbon extracted from red algae speeds up the growth of dinos in vitro -- like I said, DOC could also fuel the little bacteria farms... However, I don't know if this applies in axenic cultures or not, meaning I don't know if DOC boosts dino growth by boosting bacteria growth, or if dinos can directly absorb dissolved organic carbon from the water. There are hints that they can, and it makes sense that they can to at least some extent, given that they can utilize NO3 and PO4 directly from the water, but I haven't found proof. Anyway, UV looks like a double-edged sword to me: it controls the dino population, but it may also help protect and nurture the survivors. I hope that's helpful. And since you brought up UV, I did notice something in the thread that got me thinking... Quote:
Molecular evidence for the aquarium origin of the green alga Caulerpa taxifolia introduced to the Mediterranean Sea http://www.com.univ-mrs.fr/~boudoure..._1998_MEPS.pdf UV resistant dinos would be bad. Imagine UV resistant O. ovata adapting to the intertidal zone. Just thought that should be on the table, that's all. Quote:
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Artificial Cyanobacterial Mats: Growth, Structure, and Vertical Zonation Patterns http://bioold.science.ku.dk/mkuhl/pa...26Kuhl2000.pdf Dinos also feed their "symbiotic" bacteria with simple organic carbon molecules that are like french fries for the bacteria -- not a lot of nutrition there, but a lot of calories. A lot of energy. All photoautotrophs seem to do this. When terrestrial plants are nutrient-limited, for example, they trade excess sugar generated by photosynthesis to fungi and bacteria in the soil in exchange for nutrients. Algaes do the same thing -- it's normal to find a few heterotrophic bacteria clinging onto the surface of individual phytoplankton cells, for example. Quote:
Perhaps the cyano growing atop your ostis is sometimes able to collect enough detritus to contaminate the dinos' bacteria farm or attract other, hungrier protists and microfauna that quietly ate their way through the dino bloom. Other possibilities that occur to me are that the cyano grew so thick and lush that it prevented the dinos from photosynthesizing effectively, or that the cyano produced toxins of its own and fought back. However, it seems unlikely that cyano would be able to shade out the dinos, as dinos (like all freshwater and marine algaes that I'm aware of) can adjust their photosynthesis machinery to work with less light. It also seems unlikely that dinos would recruit a species of cyano that could poison them -- behavior like that should be edited out of the species by evolution. Thus, it appears that letting the cyano grow may be another backdoor route to "the dirty method", like Montireef's probiotic tea. Quote:
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https://www.terrapub.co.jp/e-library...ishida_023.pdf Quote:
I understand your reluctance. Saltwater hobbyists are often brimming with energy, invention, and inquisitiveness, but at the same time the more deeply invested we are in our systems -- not just in terms of time and energy and money, but emotionally invested, as well -- the more conservative we become. We don't want to put at risk all that we have accomplished, to say nothing of livestock that we're proud of or sentimental about. But I submit that if you're ever going to try it, now's the time. Reason one: Your new LR and sand is probably still cycling. Maybe this is important, maybe it isn't. Let's worry about that later. Reason two: You've made your corals, and in particular their zooxanthellic symbionts (...which are dinos, do bear in mind) very happy with all that nitrogen you've released into the system. Corals keep their symbionts nitrogen-limited to force them to pump out sugar, and as much as half of this sugar goes towards making mucous -- which sounds a little disgusting until you consider that mucous is the front line of coral's immune system. They secrete mucous to lift bacteria off their surface, and then release the mucous into the water, and the bacteria drift harmlessly away. Right now, your corals' symbionts are PUMPED! They've finally gotten the nitrogen they crave -- that's why they colored up. The corals may even have let them have enough nitrogen to multiply. With all those healthy, happy symbionts, your corals are in about as good a position to protect themselves from an onslaught of bacteria as they ever will be. Reason three: If Montireef dosed with his skimmer off, then you've proven that the Montireef Protocol doesn't work with the skimmer on. That's useful information. The obvious next experiment to try is to test whether or not the skimmer really is the variable by dosing again with it off, and only you can do that experiment because it should be run in the same system under similar conditions. Reason four: You've held this thread together, kept it on topic, and driven the discussion forward for TWO YEARS. You were the one who called everyone's attention to what Montireef did: Quote:
Reason five: Curiosity. Just simple curiosity. And, of course, if Montireef pops up and says, "I don't know what you're talking about, 34cygni -- my skimmer was on the whole time" then I wasted my time composing all that and will feel duly embarrassed. But that black snail poop... I just have a feeling his skimmer was off, and I'm willing to go out on a limb occasionally looking for the leverage to push the hobby forward another inch or two. |
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#1544 |
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Join Date: May 2004
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 11,033
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UV kills dinos and bacteria in the water column.
The dinos are free floating in the dark, but set up farms in the light. The nitrifying bacteria are predominately not free floating. They're resident in sand beds and inside rock structures. Every night, the dinos float kills them. The skimmer and nitrifying bacteria export/consume their remains. This strengthens the good bacteria. I don't see UV as kill or cure with chance determining the outcome. The day/night transition in dino behavior determines the ultimate outcome.
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Failure isn't an option It's a requirement. 660g 380inwall+280smp/surge S/L/Soft/Maxima/RBTA/Clown/Chromis/Anthias/Tang/Mandarin/Jawfish/Goby/Wrasse/D'back. DIY 12' Skimmer ActuatedSurge ConcreteScape |
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#1545 |
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Join Date: May 2004
Location: Dallas, TX
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As far as UV resistance, I'm sure dinos have had a few million years of the sun's UV C at their back.
As far as techie solutions, most of us are thankful that we have them. Modern medicine makes excellent use of them. So why not the reef? Good bacteria vs. bad bacteria is real, but so are the implements of hygiene and diet to promote the good.
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Failure isn't an option It's a requirement. 660g 380inwall+280smp/surge S/L/Soft/Maxima/RBTA/Clown/Chromis/Anthias/Tang/Mandarin/Jawfish/Goby/Wrasse/D'back. DIY 12' Skimmer ActuatedSurge ConcreteScape |
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#1546 | |
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Location: Wrigleyville
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#1547 |
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Join Date: May 2004
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 11,033
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You need to change the UV regularly if you're using continuously. As well as cleaning it.
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Failure isn't an option It's a requirement. 660g 380inwall+280smp/surge S/L/Soft/Maxima/RBTA/Clown/Chromis/Anthias/Tang/Mandarin/Jawfish/Goby/Wrasse/D'back. DIY 12' Skimmer ActuatedSurge ConcreteScape |
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#1548 |
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Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Canada
Posts: 390
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grump-update
I'm discouraged. My tank is in a holding pattern. I'm feeding phyto, and enough pellets/mysis for an imaginary clownfish. I have *maybe* 0.2 nitrates, undetectable phosphate (Salifert for both). Skimmer is producing 30mL to 60mL a week, set at max wet. (I'm collecting it in a bottle a la Montireef) There's no other algae. The dinos on the sandbed have been replaced by cyano. Or a mix. It's difficult to tell.
The dinos on the glass aren't going away. I get a white fog on the glass which eventually turns yellow and develops the odd spot pattern of dinos. Where's the green algae? Diatoms? Anybody? Looking at my monthly tank shots I see that my sandbed is becoming less and less alive. There aren't any hair worms along the front at all anymore. No spaghetti worms in the sandbed. Pod population has come back to normal, and seems to hang out on the glass in the dinos. Sandbed is clumping into little hillocks, oddly. I am very hesitant to add fish or inverts back as I don't really know what the toxin level is. Advice? Suggestions? Here's a sandbed pic. Can't really tell if that's dinos mixed in the cyano or what. The green isn't algae, it's a different strain of cyano. The blurry trio at the bottom center are green pods. [IMG] ![]() Ivy I'd really like to know what was going on in Montireef's cultured skimmate. Were conditions anoxic/anaerobic? Did the bottle contain the motherload of n-fixing bacteria? Or was it the protozoan predators? Oh and the 2" coat of dinoflagellates was more neglect than severity of infestation. I had literally never heard of dinos being a problem in captive systems and assumed I was seeing normal algal sucession in a new tank. I'm a 'wait and see' aquarium keeper so I didn't panic until things started dying.
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28g cube, CF 105watts! Tunze 9001. Tiny frags: Euphyllia, blasto, ricordea and a rock flower anemone. Lost fish and inverts due to ongoing outbreak of dinoflagellates. Current Tank Info: 28g aio, 105 watt CF lights, no sump or skimmer. 2 sexy shrimp, tiny frogspawn, tiny toadstool, tiny lps. Started Feb '15 Last edited by Quiet_Ivy; 08/17/2015 at 08:39 PM. Reason: more thoughts |
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#1549 |
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Join Date: May 2004
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 11,033
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Have you considered planting a large mass of chaeto or grape caulerpa?
Maybe get a green hair algae rock from a local reef keeper or store? I think my chaeto and DSB refugium was a strong contributor to my health during the recovery.
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Failure isn't an option It's a requirement. 660g 380inwall+280smp/surge S/L/Soft/Maxima/RBTA/Clown/Chromis/Anthias/Tang/Mandarin/Jawfish/Goby/Wrasse/D'back. DIY 12' Skimmer ActuatedSurge ConcreteScape |
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#1550 |
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Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 202
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I would shut off the skimmer and raise phosphates otherwise green algae might not show up
I dose Brightwell NeoPhose so that I sit around 0.02 ppm. Otherwise Hanna URL says 0.000ppm Last edited by Adrnalnrsh; 08/17/2015 at 09:15 PM. |
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